Sony PVM-2530 Impressions

[vol.2]

Can anyone comment on the PVM 2530?

Is this monitor a good all-around monitor for NES, N64, PlayStation 1?

How would it handle GameCube, PS2, Dreamcast?

I have heard tellings of issues with N64. Anyone care to weigh in?

There is this video which mentions possible shortcomings?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmVE-S8L774

[bobrocks95]

I believe Fudoh has said that they were used as presentation monitors and thus aren't as sharp as the rest of the PVM line.

That said, it's still a professional RGB monitor and likely looks wonderful, and is one of your only options for larger RGB monitors besides some NEC options.

I think at this point the problem is much more "What is available anywhere near me" than "What's the perfect monitor I should look for," however.

[vol.2]

Thanks for the reply. Okay. So Fudoh said they not as sharp. That would make sense given that they are 560 lines at 25" and the PVM 20" range from 600-900 lines. Pretty big difference in sharpness there. I would definitely take that as a likely fact.

I asked specially about the 2530 because I have a chance to pick one up. However, I don't have that much room to store TVs, so this might have to be the last CRT I buy.
Because of that, I am asking here for impressions of this model.

Does anyone have first-hand experience with this set?

[Artemio]

I have two, and have calibrated a couple more for friends.

It has no underscan option, and it is indeed not as sharp. But it looks great to my eyes for that size. I have a couple of 20 and 14 inch ones, and some 29" arcade cabinets. And due to the size, I end up using the 2530 more than the others.

I guess it is up to preference

[bobrocks95]

If you have a chance to get one for a reasonable cost I would absolutely recommend you not hesitate and get it ASAP.

If you find it's not to your liking, or you get another monitor later on, it will be easy to get rid of. If the cost is higher, or it's pretty far away, maybe think about it some more, but I'd still at least try and go check it out. You can never really know for sure how much you personally like it until you see it- the lower TVL will likely make it look a bit softer like an arcade monitor, and some are really into that.

[kamiboy]

Of all the CRT's that I've owned or seen in person the 2530 produced the most visually appealing image quality for retro gaming.

[vol.2]

Of all the CRT's that I've owned or seen in person the 2530 produced the most visually appealing image quality for retro gaming.

Thanks for your reply.

That's a great recommendation. What is it that you like about the screen so much? What does it have that a more recent PVM or BVM doesn't have?

[kamiboy]

It combines the best qualities of arcade monitors and pro monitors. It has mainly two things going for it over the newer pro sets. First, it is a 25" monitor while most newer 4:3 PVM's and BVM's top off at 20", which is too small in my opinion.

Secondly the newer high TVL BVM/PVM monitors are so sharp that their image quality rendere lowfi 240p content too harshly. The 2530 on the other hand strikes the perfect balance.

I should mention that the PVM2530 that I once owned and foolishly sold was in mint condition, barely used at all. So the picture was amazing.

CRT technology truly peaked in the 80's.

[FinalBaton]

CRT technology truly peaked in the 80's.

This is subjective though

This is your fave CRT "look", but others will prefer a straight up arcade monitor. And others will prefer a BVM. And others will prefer a high end consumer shadow mask. And others will prefer a high end consumer aperture grill. Etc Etc

Vol. 2, you really owe it to yourself to go check out that 2530 Maybe you'll love it!

[STG]

I had one, it was pretty damn good other than changing the horizontal/vertical picture settings, as you had to remove the case (or do what I did and dremeled out a door) to adjust those pots. And since I bounce around a lot from consoles to arcade PCB's, this was rather annoying. Even more so with vert shmups as I had to turn the unit back horizontally, adjust the pots for that game/PCB, then rotate the monitor back to vertical... man, I don't miss doing that "procedure" lol.

Other than that, it was a basic but rock-solid CRT for RGB gaming. And great for arcade games, if I found another one I wouldn't pass on grabbing it.

[vol.2]

CRT technology truly peaked in the 80's.

This is subjective though

This is your fave CRT "look", but others will prefer a straight up arcade monitor. And others will prefer a BVM. And others will prefer a high end consumer shadow mask. And others will prefer a high end consumer aperture grill. Etc Etc

Vol. 2, you really owe it to yourself to go check out that 2530 Maybe you'll love it!

Yeah, I'm def going to take this seriously, for sure.

Thanks for the advice about this set. I am very excited about checking it out now. I guess what I was looking for was the impressions that I am getting from you and the others who have commented, but also if there are any serious known problems or "gotchas" specifically associated with the PVM-2530. But it sounds like there are none?

[kamiboy]

One problem only. The RGB input port is an old proprietary SONY port. You will need to source cables that convert BNC or SCART to that type of input in order to use it with RGB sources.

Another thing is that on mine at least the composite input image quality was absolutely abysmal. I think there was something wrong with that input on mine though, as the quality was comically horrendous.

[Guspaz]

I believe this is the appropriate adapter: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/son ... -converter

Speculating: if the 2530 doesn't have a comb filter, that could explain poor composite quality.

EDIT: The 2530 does have comb filters, so your composite input issues aren't caused by that. But if you want to use composite video and bypass the composite input (perhaps something is wrong with that input), you can buy an Extron VYC-100 on eBay for $15. It has a comb filter.

[vol.2]

I believe this is the appropriate adapter: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/son ... -converter

Speculating: if the 2530 doesn't have a comb filter, that could explain poor composite quality.

EDIT: The 2530 does have comb filters, so your composite input issues aren't caused by that. But if you want to use composite video and bypass the composite input (perhaps something is wrong with that input), you can buy an Extron VYC-100 on eBay for $15. It has a comb filter.

Yeah, I saw these cables. I was also considering just to buy a DB25 from Mouser, cut it in half, and solder some BNC's to the other side, but maybe the scart is a better termination if I want some standard to aim for from the consoles. I suppose it's worth it. I have also seen DB-25->BNC breakout adapters for $15 out there. Those might be nice for hooking up an extron emotia or something to do 480p->240p downscaling.

[daskrabs]

This series of PVM (black, stereo, similar shape) are brilliant for retrogaming. I've owned or own one in every size. The only issue is their composite performance sucks, even with the notch filter enabled. It's worse the larger your screen. The S-video and RGB look amazing though, and they have built-in stereo amps, so they sound great too. Highly recommended despite the composite performance.

[ELabit]

I believe this is the appropriate adapter: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/son ... -converter

Speculating: if the 2530 doesn't have a comb filter, that could explain poor composite quality.

EDIT: The 2530 does have comb filters, so your composite input issues aren't caused by that. But if you want to use composite video and bypass the composite input (perhaps something is wrong with that input), you can buy an Extron VYC-100 on eBay for $15. It has a comb filter.

That cable is poor quality compared to this one IMO. Bad soldering no insulation on cable etc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-RGB-Euro ... SwsN9XBXbA

[Guspaz]

I've got several of Wookieewin's cables, they're good, and he's willing to customize them for you if required.

[vol.2]

Oh Man. I missed my chance to get this PVM 2530! I am super bummed out. :C

I had a bunch of unexpected guests at the office yesterday and someone else offered the owner more money for the monitor than I did, but I was right in the middle of a meeting and I couldn't counter the offer. I didn't even know that it got away until later in the afternoon.

I was really looking forward to that monitor. I even started making plans for all of the rgb hook-ups on the consoles, etc.

If anybody has one of these that they are interested in selling, please let me know!

[kamiboy]

Tis better to have loved and lost...

[RdCrestdBreegull]

How easy is this to fix on a 2530? The right side of the picture is curved:

Spoiler

Probably can be adjusted by screwing some screws on the inside of the monitor, but wanted to make sure it's fixable before I pick it up.

[vol.2]

How easy is this to fix on a 2530? The right side of the picture is curved:

Spoiler

Probably can be adjusted by screwing some screws on the inside of the monitor, but wanted to make sure it's fixable before I pick it up.

I wouldn't assume that it just needs calibration. There is always a chance that it has bad caps or other parts. We are talking about TVs that are 20 + years old, and were never meant to last that long in the first place. Cap replacement isn't a big deal to an experienced tech, but it would still be somewhat expensive to have done. If the price is low enough, pick it up knowing that you probably have to fix it or have it fixed now or sometime in the future.

[RdCrestdBreegull]

I wouldn't assume that it just needs calibration. There is always a chance that it has bad caps or other parts. We are talking about TVs that are 20 + years old, and were never meant to last that long in the first place. Cap replacement isn't a big deal to an experienced tech, but it would still be somewhat expensive to have done. If the price is low enough, pick it up knowing that you probably have to fix it or have it fixed now or sometime in the future.

He's asking $200 OBO and lives 40 minutes away. I currently have a PVM-14M4U in amazing condition with low hours and a BVM-20F1U that has burn-in covering the whole screen (haven't been able to test the picture yet). Was going to get the 2530 as my "big" monitor for now since the 20F1U will probably be jacked up. Although I won't be able to actually use the 2530 until I get SCART cables for my SNES or N64 (currently using BNC). Providing I might have to take it in to get new caps etc, what would be a resonable offer for me to make?

[vol.2]

I wouldn't assume that it just needs calibration. There is always a chance that it has bad caps or other parts. We are talking about TVs that are 20 + years old, and were never meant to last that long in the first place. Cap replacement isn't a big deal to an experienced tech, but it would still be somewhat expensive to have done. If the price is low enough, pick it up knowing that you probably have to fix it or have it fixed now or sometime in the future.

He's asking $200 OBO and lives 40 minutes away. I currently have a PVM-14M4U in amazing condition with low hours and a BVM-20F1U that has burn-in covering the whole screen (haven't been able to test the picture yet). Was going to get the 2530 as my "big" monitor for now since the 20F1U will probably be jacked up. Although I won't be able to actually use the 2530 until I get SCART cables for my SNES or N64 (currently using BNC). Providing I might have to take it in to get new caps etc, what would be a resonable offer for me to make?

I'd like to get backed up on this, but I'd try to get it for $150? That would give you some breathing room if there was a more serious issue.

Anyone with another opinion?

[noonan2678]

How easy is this to fix on a 2530? The right side of the picture is curved:

Spoiler

Probably can be adjusted by screwing some screws on the inside of the monitor, but wanted to make sure it's fixable before I pick it up.

My 2030 does the same thing. There's no service menu that I'm aware of. If anyone knows how to calibrate these outside of the physical controls on the front, please let us know.

[kamiboy]

If you pop off the back you gain access to a PCB board with pots on the side of the unit. Those pots allow you to adjust geometry. Play with the pots while looking at the picture to discover what they adjust. There are pots related to audio and other things on that board, so if turning one seems to change nothing in the picture put it back to where you found it.

I do suggest forgetting all about achieving a perfectly straight line for the side of the picture though, perfect geometry is an exercise in futility on a monitor of that vintage. Unless you suffer from OCD I suggest adjusting the picture so that it is as good as possible, then increase the size of the display area until the edges are hidden out of view. That way you won't have to worry about it not being straight.

The 2530 is my favourite CRT monitor in terms of picture quality, so if I found one in mint or good condition I would buy it for that price in a heartbeat.

[noonan2678]

If you pop off the back you gain access to a PCB board with pots on the side of the unit. Those pots allow you to adjust geometry. Play with the pots while looking at the picture to discover what they adjust. There are pots related to audio and other things on that board, so if turning one seems to change nothing in the picture put it back to where you found it.

Awesome, thank you. Will try not to die in the process.

EDIT - anything back there that might help with my discoloration issue? http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 7#p1222637

EDIT - looks like you replied there too, so thank you again.

[RdCrestdBreegull]

If you pop off the back you gain access to a PCB board with pots on the side of the unit. Those pots allow you to adjust geometry. Play with the pots while looking at the picture to discover what they adjust. There are pots related to audio and other things on that board, so if turning one seems to change nothing in the picture put it back to where you found it.

Is there a specific type of glove I should wear so I won't get terribly electrocuted?

[STG]

Is there a specific type of glove I should wear so I won't get terribly electrocuted?

I used to adjust the pots with a plastic screwdriver, never had any issues.

[vol.2]

If you pop off the back you gain access to a PCB board with pots on the side of the unit. Those pots allow you to adjust geometry. Play with the pots while looking at the picture to discover what they adjust. There are pots related to audio and other things on that board, so if turning one seems to change nothing in the picture put it back to where you found it.

Is there a specific type of glove I should wear so I won't get terribly electrocuted?

Okay. I think you should do a little bit of reading up on this stuff. I am in no way trying to be snarky or anything here, but you can actually die poking around in a CRT. You've got to learn what you can touch and you can't touch. Please be careful and safe.

[noonan2678]

Okay. I think you should do a little bit of reading up on this stuff. I am in no way trying to be snarky or anything here, but you can actually die poking around in a CRT. You've got to learn what you can touch and you can't touch. Please be careful and safe.

Very true and just to add, removing the power source does NOT make it much safer. There are huge capacitors in there that can hold a lot of voltage. There are YouTube videos about how to discharge a CRT before tinkering. Please check those first.