Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Ikaruga11]

Not all of us find larger screens to automatically be more enjoyable. I don't think more easily noticeable aliasing, tearing, or other artifacts are a better experience.

this

Larger screens have lower PPI/DPI and make aliasing, artifacts and other imperfections more noticeable.

[atheistgod1999]

How come no one has thought of windowboxing NES, as well as other 256 x 240 resolution, games to 1280 x 960? That would be a 5x horizontal scale and 4x vertical, and would be the correct aspect ratio.

[Fudoh]

The NES HDMI mods offer this and the Framemeister can offer a 960p profile as well (but the horizontal is a bit more complex).

[orange808]

I don't own any HDMI modded gear because I'm a n00b.

[Fudoh]

Related to the posts above: I just found out what "Lightboost" setting on my monitor was a few hours ago. Now I'm using it, and it's fucking unreal. Would it be possible for a display to have it built-in, without requiring a graphics card to tell it to do it?

quite a few TVs have this. Most Sony LCDs for example.

[Xyga]

Yeah but still stuck at 60Hz right ?

[orange808]

Yeah but still stuck at 60Hz right ?

Yep, but it's still a box of trade offs.

Higher refresh on my monitor trades awful crosstalk for less flicker and input lag. Come to think of it, that's every new monitor.

I can turn off "lightframe", but that just smears and blurs instead of crosstalk.

[Xyga]

The 60Hz strobing on the Sonys just destroys my brain and makes the picture too dark for my needs, frankly it's not for me.
On the other hand I can totally deal with 60Hz sample and hold + normal lcd smearing, leaving out really fast 3D games like FPS the AMVA panels used by Sony are fast-enough for most everything non-PC, they're overdriven without perceptible inverse-ghosting and no PWM is used for dimming, which makes them better than your average VA set.
The trick for keeping decent clarity with 'classic' lcds now, no matter the panel type, is to use clean-enough scaling and the most gentle smoothing available, if it's even needed, because the quality of the source also affects the clarity during motion.
I'd say on such panels people who slap a bilinear filter in MAME, or use the even greasier filters available in most HD-console ports, are doing it the wrong way.

One more thing I've noticed (back on the topic of large sets) is that people tend to buy large TVs or monitors not for sitting further away, but to get a big-ass picture in their face.
It's only natural then that the flaws will be more visible, just saying...until we get high-enough frequency scanning/strobing on OLEDs buying large sets to sit close will never be a good idea.

[Guspaz]

Most FPS games on consoles seem to have shader-based motionblur anyhow, and usually don't have an option to turn it off. It's usually the first setting that I change in PC FPS games.

[Xyga]

Who plays FPS on consoles anyway ?

[BazookaBen]

Most FPS games on consoles seem to have shader-based motionblur anyhow, and usually don't have an option to turn it off. It's usually the first setting that I change in PC FPS games.

What I love about Battlefied 4 (and I think BF1 will have it too) is that you can set a very specific amount of motion blur via a slider, or even to the millionth of a percent if you dive into the config. So I set it to something like 15% when I'm playing at 85hz on my CRT. It blends the frames together ever so slightly in fast motion, giving a more fluid feel, while at the same time keeping the action very visible.

Because even at 85 or 90hz, you can see artifacts from the individual frames when you pan the camera fast enough. You can test this by moving your mouse across your desktop quickly. You'll see multiple pointers at any given moment.

[FrogMonster]

I'm getting back into gaming and have chosen to go the RGB route this time around. I've done a little research and think I know how I'm going to set it up, but I figured I would double check here to make sure I didn't miss anything.

RGB modded console >> SCART cable >> SCART switch >> SCART to component converter >> component cable >> CRT monitor

What model/brand would you folks recommend for the SCART switch and SCART to component converter?

Thanks for the help!

[TenchiSouzou]

While cleaning my old Super Famicom I accidentally broke off one of the wires from the controller port as can be seen in the attached picture. Is there any way to fix this?

[ApolloBoy]

While cleaning my old Super Famicom I accidentally broke off one of the wires from the controller port as can be seen in the attached picture. Is there any way to fix this?
See here

You'll have to desolder what's left and grab a controller connector from a dead console.

[atheistgod1999]

If I feed RF into an RF modulator with the right channel selected, will it get demodulated and output as composite AV on the other end?

[Fudoh]

No, but if you feed RF into an RF demodulator with the right channel selected, it will get demodulated and output as composite AV on the other end.

[orange808]

If I feed RF into an RF modulator with the right channel selected, will it get demodulated and output as composite AV on the other end?

[beatsgo]

I'm getting back into gaming and have chosen to go the RGB route this time around. I've done a little research and think I know how I'm going to set it up, but I figured I would double check here to make sure I didn't miss anything.

RGB modded console >> SCART cable >> SCART switch >> SCART to component converter >> component cable >> CRT monitor

What model/brand would you folks recommend for the SCART switch and SCART to component converter?

Thanks for the help!

SCART Switches Recommendations
Cypress CSY-2100 SCART to YUV Converter

Be aware that there's a clear difference between JP-21 and SCART in terms of pin assignments.

[Guspaz]

For component converters, Ani-AV was selling brand new Shinybow SB-2840 scart-to-component converters for only slightly more than the poorly made CSY-2100 knockoffs cost. It looks like the listing is gone from their website at the moment, but hopefully they'll get them back. They were willing to do a custom shipping option for me which substantially reduced the shipping costs to Canada (they removed the product from the original packaging for me to fit it in a much smaller shipping box). Highly recommend them.

[atheistgod1999]

Can anyone recommend me a good, and inexpensive, NTSC RF demodulator?

I mean, after all:

You're thinking of selling your BVM because it doesn't have RF?

That's the dumbest fucking thing I've ever seen posted in public.

^He's right

[Fudoh]

The Sony TU-1041U is good. From $20 on ebay.

[bobrocks95]

For component converters, Ani-AV was selling brand new Shinybow SB-2840 scart-to-component converters for only slightly more than the poorly made CSY-2100 knockoffs cost. It looks like the listing is gone from their website at the moment, but hopefully they'll get them back. They were willing to do a custom shipping option for me which substantially reduced the shipping costs to Canada (they removed the product from the original packaging for me to fit it in a much smaller shipping box). Highly recommend them.

How's the Shinybow's performance? Better than a CSY-clone, worse than a Kramer?

[Guspaz]

I don't have either of those to directly compare, but I can say that the colours are perfect out of the box with no tweaking required, and it has good build quality, metal with rubber feet.. Audio output is built-in (don't need to manually hack it on like the CSY clones), LED is not too bright with a limited viewing angle so that you can check that it's on but not be bothered by it the rest of the time.

The only thing that I noticed is that my projector (Epson PowerLite 8345) would lose sync on full-white GBA screens when connecting my PAL gameCube outputting NTSC GBI ULL (the most incompatible version). I didn't notice this problem with other outputs, but I only have limited testing time before my projector's bulb burnt out, and I've been waiting nearly a month for the replacement to arrive. This could easily have been caused by GBI ULL's low refresh rate, or one of the other components in the display chain. It's a convoluted display chain:

PAL GCN (NTSC signal with below-spec refresh rate)
Retro Gaming Cables PAL GCN RGB SCART cable (composite video sync)
Bandridge 5-port auto SCART switcher
Wookieewin SCART-to-BNC breakout cable
Sony PVM 14L2
Wookieewin BNC-to-SCART breakout cable (had him swap sync pin for other direction)
Shinybow SB-2840 SCART-to-YPbPr converter
Epson Powerlite 8345 projector

It'd be interesting to check if this happens in other scenarios and/or with different adapters. When my projector gets back up and running, I'll try to check with the HDR cables going direct to the projector, and if connecting the GCN directly to the Shinybow converter changes anything (eliminating most of the components in the chain).

[Einzelherz]

Any guesses why my proper color calibration makes televised Simpsons episodes look very wrong on my plasma?

Edit: dammit, even watching a video file of the Simpsons looks wrong. And from the computer that I used to calibrate it.

[amc3]

New question (and first one on the forum; hope I'm doin it right..):

My Vizio TV doesn't seem to support 240p signals, according to my results testing a composite signal from a Twin Famicom and according to this list: http://www.hdretrovision.com/240p/#

I've been having some so-so success with using it via the RF converter and channel 96 on the TV. The signal appears but is fuzzy.

I'm into trying to clean up my RF signal from my Famicom per some good suggestions around improving the shielding on the cable but I wonder if that would even work? As I move the skinny RCA cable that runs from the Fami to the RF converter today, the snow gets better and worse and sometimes goes all the way to snow. But sometimes, it seems like it's on the way to getting better and then the TV suddenly says "No signal".

Dumb question: Is it possible that when I do achieve a very clean signal from RF that only then the TV decides that it's 240p and shouldn't try to display it? While the signal is still fuzzy and is appearing on the TV, the TV is showing that the signal is 480i...

Or does the 240p support limitation only apply when connected via composite and connections other than RF?

[Einzelherz]

Out of curiosity using the composite cable into the Green port on the component jacks with the tv set to component in, do you get any picture at all?

[beatsgo]

Out of curiosity using the composite cable into the Green port on the component jacks with the tv set to component in, do you get any picture at all?

I believe so, since the green cable carry's luma and sync. Don't quote me on that, haven't setup one of my TVs to test this one yet.

[atheistgod1999]

Out of curiosity using the composite cable into the Green port on the component jacks with the tv set to component in, do you get any picture at all?

I believe so, since the green cable carry's luma and sync. Don't quote me on that, haven't setup one of my TVs to test this one yet.

Yeah; it's black and white. After all, composite is just luma with modulated chroma tacked on.

[orange808]

Yeah; it's black and white. After all, composite is just luma with modulated chroma tacked on.

[Einzelherz]

Out of curiosity using the composite cable into the Green port on the component jacks with the tv set to component in, do you get any picture at all?

I believe so, since the green cable carry's luma and sync. Don't quote me on that, haven't setup one of my TVs to test this one yet.

I asked because if you get a clear image, your TV can understand 240p over component. It may deinterlace it like mine does, but it'll work, at least.