B&O MX4/6/7000 - troubleshooting and general information

[Bubba_Shepherd]

Hi!
I have a strange picture problem with my Bang MX7000. Sometimes the whites appear blurry, too much contrast and the scanlines are almost non existing at 55 contrast setting, and 18 brilliance, also I see some banding on blacks trough RGB scart on both my Mega drive and Sega Master system. I have set brightness to level 7 in the servicemenu, could that be the culprit or is it something else? The set was like new and had newer been used before i bought it.

Would try to take a picture of my problem but right now I don't have my smartphone.

[Star1]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone contributing to this thread, and MX series knowledge in general! Special thanks to FutureMatt and Fagin

The info here has been a great help in adjusting my MX7000, but I am having a slight issue in that the picture is narrower in the top than the bottom, any ideas on how to fix this?

[g5k]

New to the forum, I've recently jumped into the MX obsession. After picking up an MX3000 (pre research) that was no good (haven't figured out what's wrong with it, very dim and can't seem to access any menus, assuming the 3000 has on screen menus?, as I write this it just occurred to me that maybe it needs chassis adjustment) have now picked up an MX4002. I plan to get it up and running with a Raspberry Pi running Retropie for emulation of consoles. I've been looking into the RGB pathway from HDMI to SCART and getting the Pi to output 240p. Confident I have it all sussed out now just waiting on my Arcade Forge delivery that shipped yesterday. Will update the thread on my progress. Have found this forum/thread so helpful and the youtuber's mentioned many times over for all the MX assistance. Have also picked up a relatively cheap and mint Beo4 remote which allows service mode access. Weighing up whether to take back off to make sure chassis is focussed as sharp as it can be.

My proposed hardware path is HDMI to VGA adaptor into the UMSA and into the SCART on the 4002. I've also got an arcade table running a Jamma Raspberry Pi board that a guy in Australia has developed. That has proven that 240p can be passed through the HDMI to VGA adaptor (although it can be luck of draw on the adaptors apparently, some work some don't and they are all generic). I've also picked up an Extron RXi 202 to play with, not sure if it will be of any use in the chain yet, my understanding is UMSA will convert the HV sync to composite sync needed by the B&O but if not will have to get some more cables to pipe the Extron into the mix.

In my haste waiting for a UMSA to get to Australia I did have a crack at making my own VGA to Scart cable with sync circuit. With modest skills I managed to get the signal to the TV but couldn't get proper sync so am guessing my circuit had issues or the guide I followed did. Followed the one on the Scart Hunter blog. I was just pleased that I didn't fry the 4002

If anyone else has tried getting Retropie to output 240P into the MX SCART and has anything to offer let me know, will report back with progress.

[Star1]

g5K, Have you tried adjusting Hfq in the service menu? Your vga-scart could be working correctly, but if Hfq is set too low, the picture would be a mess.

As for the focus adjust, I'd say go for it. Assuming it is as easy as on the mx7000 it is very straight forward. Just four screws for the chassis, then use an allen wrench to adjust focus. Just a few minutes of work, helped me out a lot.

[g5k]

Thanks, yeah I went through the hfq one increment at a time and it nearly synced around high 30s but was still a long way off. Once my UMSA arrives I'll be whipping the back off for some focus tweaking

[matsor]

Hi, new here

I've recently bought a nice mX4200 for my retrogaming setup with a Beo4 remote. My NES hooked up on AV1 and my SNES on AV2.
I set the AV-ports on decoder1 and decoder2 like in this vid and it worked fine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnIt7QNTI88

After screwing around with some settings, I reset to default settings in the service menu. Now here comes the problem; After resetting, the option to set AV2 to decoder2 is gone and I can not get it back. Only options I have are AUX, EXPANDER, SET TOP BOX and NONE. AV1 is set to decoder and works ok.

I have searched every user and service manual I could find, checked forums but no answer so far. Can someone here please explain me how to get that option back in the connection settings?

Thanks in advance!

[waiwainl]

I have a MX8000 with none of the consoles are displayed fully on the screen. The bottom 2/5 or 1/5 of the screen is unused.
Though the picture of the game is 100% complete, just not fully on the screen.



Interestingly enough, when I pop-up the Picture menu, on the background you see the game all of a sudden 'full screen'.



I have looked around in the system menu, but I could not find any function that would fix this properly.
I am probably missing something very basic, but at a loss.

The MX4000 I have, does not show this issue.

Any suggestions?


(sorry for the bad pics, it was too dark, so I enhanced it by software)

[kamiboy]

Your SCART cable is not feeding the input port ~9V on the aspect ratio pin, so the TV thinks the content is 16:9 and shrinks it. You can manually switch it to 4:3 if you have a remote. Or you could feed the leg in question the proper voltage.

[Sid]

Or do as I did and simply remove pin 8 completely.

Sorry @matsor, I have no idea how to address your issue.

[waiwainl]

Your SCART cable is not feeding the input port ~9V on the aspect ratio pin, so the TV thinks the content is 16:9 and shrinks it. You can manually switch it to 4:3 if you have a remote. Or you could feed the leg in question the proper voltage.

Hm, changing the format is actually a good idea, I didn't do that yet.
Usually 16:9 the image is vertically entered, not sticking to the top.

Will try that tonight!

Or do as I did and simply remove pin 8 completely.

If that was the trick, I will remove pin 8 as well.

[kamiboy]

Yeah, removing that pin will also work. In fact that is what I do with mine. Just make sure the RGB pin continues to get its voltage as that pin and the aspect ratio pin are often tied together in SCART cables. If the RGB does not get its voltage the TV will not switch to RGB mode.

And yeah, the 16:9 mode is a bit strange on the B&O TVs, but as long as the aspect ratio is correct it does not really matter where the picture is centred. I think you might even be able to adjust the location in the service menu.

[Lindahl]

Hi

I picked up a couple of these B&O MX sets, as they go for next to nothing here in Denmark, though mostly only with the Beolink 1000 remote.
The plan is to use one for my retro consoles, and the other to build into a full sized arcade cabinet.
Got both a MX7000 and a MX6000 at the time, but one thing is puzzling me.
The MX7000 is a SW1.1, and the MX6000 ist a SW 3.1.
I would like to enter the service mode to take advantage of the RGB cables I own, but on the MX7000 I can´t seem to find the two jumpers. On the MX6000 they are right where they should be.

Any one in here that can help me out - is it possible to enter the service menu on the MX7000 SW 1.1, and if it is how do you do it on this software/hardware revision?

I have attached pictures of the PCB on both the MX7000 and MX6000.

MX7000:


MX6000:



Thanks

[waiwainl]

It was indeed the format 16:9
So now I will remove the pin and be done with it for ever. Thank you!

[Star1]

Lindahl, I have a MX7000 1.1, and the service mode jumper is identical to the one in your mx6000 picture. So it seems like even for the same firmware revision there are some differences.

But in the MX7000 pic, doesnt it say Service mode (or something close to that?) right on the board? I'm guessing the pins are there, they are just "hidden" with a different type of connector than the two loose pins we are used to seeing.

Also, you don't need to enter service mode to make use of RGB signals. Unless you need to tune the geometry or more advanced image settings, you don't need to access it at all, (hence it being hidden from normal users).

[Lindahl]

Lindahl, I have a MX7000 1.1, and the service mode jumper is identical to the one in your mx6000 picture. So it seems like even for the same firmware revision there are some differences.

But in the MX7000 pic, doesnt it say Service mode (or something close to that?) right on the board? I'm guessing the pins are there, they are just "hidden" with a different type of connector than the two loose pins we are used to seeing.

Also, you don't need to enter service mode to make use of RGB signals. Unless you need to tune the geometry or more advanced image settings, you don't need to access it at all, (hence it being hidden from normal users).

Hi

Yes, it says Service beneath the bundle of cable plugs, but nothing more (see the first attached picture, and there isn´t anything that look similar to the pins on the MX6000

You´re right considering the RGB signal, but it would be nice to be able to tweak the picture if needed.

Another weird thing is, that I can´t make the MX7000 go into the ordinary menu. I got both a MK2 and MK3 Beolink 1000, but unfortunately only the MK2 works properly at the moment. When using the Shift - Text function nothing happens on the MX7000. On the MX6000 this will start the menu, so the remote being defect can be ruled out I guess. My MX7000 just seems in every way odd

A third thing - I tried comparing the pictures on the MX6000 and MX7000. I switched the AV-1 and AV-2 sockets on the MX6000 to V-Tape 1 and V-Aux to secure that the signal is RGB.
I use an old modded xbox running Coinops and a scart RGB cable to run the video signal.

The signal seems a lot more dull on the MX7000, even with the contrast screen removed an both brilliance, colour (maxed out at 62) and contrast a lot higher than on the MX6000 (which is actually set really low on all settings) it is still very washed out compared to the MX6000. Maybe it is the tube or something, as these sets are around 20 years old.
On the other hand colour bleed seems a lot less on the MX7000, especially the red colour in games such as mortal kombat has close to no bleed, where as the bleed is a lot more pronounced on the MX6000. In my opinion it should be the other way around.
If the MX6000 is really being fed a RGB-signal from the xbox would I then be able to adjust the brilliance, colour and contrast - I thought this wasn´t possible when using RGB on the MX-set, but doing so actually changes my picture when using the RGB cable with the MX6000 on AV-1 (V-Tape 1)

I have attached a couple more pictures of the PCB on the MX7000, if anybody can spot and/or point out where the pins for the service menu are located I would be very grateful

[Star1]

http://imgur.com/3HVbPNL I marked what I suspect is the Service mode jumpers. You can confirm it by checking the text next to it (cant see it clearly on the image), if it says P700, you are good to go.

If the image looks washed out that could likely be fixed adjusting focus. This is done by hand, using an adjustable pot located on the top right (when viewed from behind) part of the of the tube board.

[electrosphere]

As a recent owner of a MX4002 set I've been reading this thread with interest over the last month and I'm amazed and thankful for the information and detail from everyone.

I think I agree with some forum members about the MX4000/4002 though, the picture isn't as good as a good Sony Trinitron FD. I have both and have compared the same game with them. I've also tried to tweak the MX4002 settings but the Sony Trinitron has it beat.

In my humble opinion, the only reason to go for the MX4000/4002 is to own a piece of former high-end consumer electronics that also looks like a work of art. I mean it's just beautiful! A Sony set looks dull in comparison.

If interested I also documented my CRT buying quest recently on my wiki, it is UK-focussed and should hopefully give some advice to those of you looking to buy a good CRT: https://opticalgarbage.com/wiki/index.p ... uyingGuide

Thanks!

[Roodwurm]

I've got myself an MX 7000 over the weekend and was preparing for pure bliss, as the screen of my AEG, 60Hz supporting CRT that I bought in Frankfurt when I was living in Germany had started to show colour issues and to appear warped.

The results up to now, after messing around quite a bit and watching the very helpful videos by fagin and futurematt, have left me feeling very mixed.

Turns out my software version is 2.0, locking me out of the service menu without modifications and preventing me from the deinterlacing feature, as my picture settings can only be accessed with the LIST button, and once I'm in those, I can no longer pull up the SHIFT function I added to the list.

What bothers me most, however is how awful and composite-like the RGB image from both my original Xbox and PS2 appear. All fuzzy, complete with shimmery lines and colour bleeding. My Japanese Saturn, Dreamcast and Gamecube look just fine, however. You would think that it might be the cables, but my old AEG TV didn't have any such display issues with the same consoles and cables.

Would anyone have any idea what could cause this and if this can be solved?

[kamiboy]

Prolly the cables you use for those systems do not have the correct voltage on the SCART pin that tells the TV to switch to RGB mode, so the TV is only displaying a composite image.

[Roodwurm]

^^^^Thanks for the response! Kind of makes sense as I recall I had to switch to the RGB EXT channel manually on my old TV for those two consoles, whereas it jumped there automatically when GC, DC and Saturn were turned on.

The solution would be to try and get different cables, or do you know if I could modify the pin to perform correctly?

[kamiboy]

Depends. If the cables carry the 5V on some wire all the way to the SCART housing then it is fixable, otherwise no dice, get yourself some proper cables.

[Roodwurm]

Yeah, it's indeed probably best to get some other cables. The Xbox RGB cable is the stock one that came with the system and the PS2 RGB cable is an unofficial one that's at least very similar to this one.

The cables from retrogamingcables.co.uk look legit, but I'll ask them beforehand if they can confirm they don't have the same voltage issue, armed with the knowledge you gave me, kind sir.

[Roodwurm]

New cables worked like a charm! Now to figure out the whole jumper thing to access service mode to fix my overscan issues and I'm set.

[manupenez]

Hello guys! I've been reading for a while but I'm still a newbie in this world, I've found a really good price for a MX7000 and I decided to buy it, however I'm would like to know if there is some statistics/test done already to know the input lag that they have? I've seen some statistics and tests that have been done in some Sonys and such but couldn't find any about B&O. They look really good and I wanted to know if there is some known min/max input lag.

[blizzz]

Those are CRTs, they don't have input lag by definition.

[santiis2010]

Hello! and thank god this forum and this tread exist!!!



I tweked the geometry of this TV, BUT! i think this problem maybe is a bad capacitor... a TV technician said to me that this problem is a "circuit" on the TV, and in the future the screen can have a problem called in spanish "cuerpo de barril" or english "barrel body", something like this:



But i don't know, you guys know what capacitor it could be? or everybody has the 3 horizontal blue, red and green bars?

this is how my tv looks with 240p test suite for gamecube:

[Tisse]

Hi!
I recently got a B&O MX4000 with firmware 1.1 and a Beolink 1000. Took me quite some googling to set it up, but with the help of this thread and some other places on the internet I got it all up and running with my old consoles.

However, the screen is a bit distorted and I was wondering if this can be fixed by going in to the service menu. On this version I have to open up the TV, so if I don't have to, I don't want to
Normally, the image quite ok, but I noticed something weird when I started up Equinox on the SNES.
Please have a look at this video - at 0:24 the image gets really bent at the top - anybody know why it does like this? While playing the edges are perfectly still...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7m2wCHKySuc

[bluetrain]

I picked up a MX8000 (an updated mx7000, I think?), what a lovely tv!

I got an aftermarket remote and it was not easy finding out how to hook up the consoles since that one got no "av1", "dvd" etc that is working.
After a lot of research I found out you could map a channel key and voila! It worked! Great times!

In my quest for the perfect picture some stuff are still not clear to me. To my understanding the mx supports RGB via scart, on both scarts? When I connect with the above mention method, I needed to use "decoder1" on av1 and "decoder2" on av2. Does the tv care about this or will it output RGB anyway (I have a RGB cable on my orig xbox). Is there some way to know it is outputting rgb or compsite?

I saw in a video that you could get scanlines with some combination on the remote. SHIFT and some number? As I don´t have the original remote and I don´t know if the shit is available. Is there some other way? Is it accessible in the service menu?

[Apfolmer]

I have bought mx4200
Running Pandora box 4
Wired cables from harmes to scart, with 12v on pin8 to force 4:3

Questions

1: why is picture not full/very left-orientated ? Left side is missing 5cm of picture
2:Can I somehow wire the tv so it turns on, when pandora box turn on, and not by remote

??

[Apfolmer]

I use mx4200 for Arcade.

Is there Any Way to connect the tv, so that it turns on without the use of remote ??