Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[atheistgod1999]

I have a Toshiba 27A43 with a horizontal s-correction issue. How can I fix it? I have the service manual on my hard drive.

[Polyh3dron]

I just picked up a working PVM-20M2U locally from a post production place for $30, guessing it's pretty good? Figured why not for $30...

[DrKingSchultz]

If it's the same as a 20M4U (wich I suspect that it is; E=Europe version and U=US. but double check on that to be sure. just go compare the specs of the 20M4U and 20M4E), then it's a very good PVM model.

800 TVL (wich is a great number for that size) and awesome color accuracy and contrast. It's excellent bang for your buck and it's actually the model I'll go after if I ever need a 20 incher.

I don't know how rare PVMs are in Europe, so I can't help you much here

On Ebay US they generally sell for $350-$400 and if you're patient you can snag one at $250
But it seems like prices on PVM go up by the day

130 pounds ($190 US)seems like a nice price. But what about the condition of the monitor?

This is very important to check, it will alter the value greatly.

If you're in the UK, I'd say yes, go for it. 800TVL PVM is very good. I paid £150 for a BVM-20G1E which is also 800TVL, and that was a good deal imo, considering the unrealistic £500-£800 asking prices that you find on ebay.

Remember though. It is very important to know the condition of the screen and how good the convergence is. Try and find out the operating time if possible too.

Thank you both for the helpful, informative replies, I bought 2 of them in the end for £200, I will get some pics up of them both soon, I was interested to know what the best cables would be to hook these up to my snes's scart lead and where I could acquire them if anyone knows..

Here is my current scart cable for my pal:



https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... -rca-sound

Here is the back of the crt:

[xga]

If it's the same as a 20M4U (wich I suspect that it is; E=Europe version and U=US. but double check on that to be sure. just go compare the specs of the 20M4U and 20M4E), then it's a very good PVM model.

800 TVL (wich is a great number for that size) and awesome color accuracy and contrast. It's excellent bang for your buck and it's actually the model I'll go after if I ever need a 20 incher.

I don't know how rare PVMs are in Europe, so I can't help you much here

On Ebay US they generally sell for $350-$400 and if you're patient you can snag one at $250
But it seems like prices on PVM go up by the day

130 pounds ($190 US)seems like a nice price. But what about the condition of the monitor?

This is very important to check, it will alter the value greatly.

If you're in the UK, I'd say yes, go for it. 800TVL PVM is very good. I paid £150 for a BVM-20G1E which is also 800TVL, and that was a good deal imo, considering the unrealistic £500-£800 asking prices that you find on ebay.

Remember though. It is very important to know the condition of the screen and how good the convergence is. Try and find out the operating time if possible too.

Thank you both for the helpful, informative replies, I bought 2 of them in the end for £200, I will get some pics up of them both soon, I was interested to know what the best cables would be to hook these up to my snes's scart lead and where I could acquire them if anyone knows..

Here is my current scart cable for my pal:



https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nin ... -rca-sound

Here is the back of the crt:

This should do the trick - https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/son ... verter-bnc

[fuse]

I appreciate the conversation in here’s been around many different loops discussing any number of displays (mainly BVMs!), but it’s what inspired me to picking up a Pioneer DPD-V402. I’m having some trouble though, and not being as technical as many folks here I was hoping for a little help. I’ve tried to scan through the thread as best I can, but between it being quite long and no within-thread search it’s possible this has come up before, and I apologise in advance if that’s the case and I'm retreading old ground.

I’ve got a chipped PAL PS2 I’m trying to run on it, and I originally had been trying to hook it up via RGB scart into one of these BNC adapters - but that was not working. I can see that the same place also has a different lead that separates sync - should I be using that instead? Or should I be looking at something entirely different for sync separation purposes (like the Sync Strike)? I would like to get the setup working via Scart mainly for ease of use with other consoles.

Specifically for PS2 though, I’d also been recommended to try component with one of these Mayflash RGBHV VGA switches, opening up 480p as a possibility too for games that support it, but with this I’m consistently getting an ‘Out of range’ message. I’ve checked everything separately and it’s all working, but can’t make sense of what I’m doing wrong here either?

[Fudoh]

Do you have an European PDP-402 ? Does it have the video board installed ?

If so, try first if you get a picture from your PS2 using composite (yellow connector). You can use your Scart breakout adapter to try this. Just connect the Sync line to the composite BNC input of the PDP. And - of course - make sure that your PS2 is set to RGB output in its menu. You should get a color picture from PAL titles and a b/w picture from NTSC titles.

On European PDPs you have an "Scart" Option which should already allow you to use composite video for sync, so you shouldn't need a sync stripper device.

Also you don't need a YUV trancoder to run 480p. The PDP supports RGsB (RGB with Sync on Green). That's what the PS2 does output in RGB mode. Just boot a 480p game and use the same adapter cable. You might have to flip a switch on the back of the PDP to enable RGsB mode.

[DrKingSchultz]

Thank you xga! I'll get some pics up of them running when the cables come in.

[chuckster]

I recently scored a JVC TM-H150GC, and the picture overall is wonderful (it's a 750TVL set at 14 inches viewable), but I am having a bit of a problem. I'll post pictures tonight when I get home, but it's basically 1/2-1" of black space around the corners (also a bit of rotation), depending on the game.

Does anyone else own this or a similar monitor? I have the manual, but even the "set-up" (I assume service) menu has no geometry adjustments aside from H and V position that I can see. I've even fiddled with the yoke collars a bit (will look into this more soon for the rotation) and checked all of the pots inside the chassis, and I found nothing.

------------------Edit----------------

Found the real service menu through the use of a service manual for a different monitor. It had just what I needed, and now the image is spot on! The service codes were numbered and upon opening the first thing you see is "Please Don't Touch!". They also have the options numbered rather than named (they REALLY didn't want any unqualified techs!). I may post up the code list later along with the button combo for other owners. This set really blows my 1954Q's and 20M2U away, along with all my smaller PVMs. It's basically new (32 hours of use going by the menu), and the higher TVL count combined with super pure colors really make it pop.

[jedman]

Got bvm24e1e and been playing around with the Geometry settings, seems like Geometry has to be set for each channel but also each resolution and screen format as well, been taking em ages to adjust for all my consoles, is their any way to calibrate a general geometry setting does anyone know?

[DoomsDave]

I want to tate a BVM 20G1A. Will this cause any problems and should I be putting anything under it for support or anything or can I just turn it and I'm good? Also I've heard that you shouldn't turn it on for a couple days after rotating, I'll probably do this to be on the safe side but how necessary is it?

Thanks

[andy251203]

I recently scored a JVC TM-H150GC, and the picture overall is wonderful (it's a 750TVL set at 14 inches viewable), but I am having a bit of a problem. I'll post pictures tonight when I get home, but it's basically 1/2-1" of black space around the corners (also a bit of rotation), depending on the game.

Does anyone else own this or a similar monitor? I have the manual, but even the "set-up" (I assume service) menu has no geometry adjustments aside from H and V position that I can see. I've even fiddled with the yoke collars a bit (will look into this more soon for the rotation) and checked all of the pots inside the chassis, and I found nothing.

------------------Edit----------------

Found the real service menu through the use of a service manual for a different monitor. It had just what I needed, and now the image is spot on! The service codes were numbered and upon opening the first thing you see is "Please Don't Touch!". They also have the options numbered rather than named (they REALLY didn't want any unqualified techs!). I may post up the code list later along with the button combo for other owners. This set really blows my 1954Q's and 20M2U away, along with all my smaller PVMs. It's basically new (32 hours of use going by the menu), and the higher TVL count combined with super pure colors really make it pop.

Does it come with the component input card? I have the Ikegami 17" version of this monitor and I've been looking for this card forever.

[DoomsDave]

Is it normal for a PVM 20L5 to be making a clicking type noise when going from interlace to progressive and vice versa?

[Einzelherz]

Is it normal for a PVM 20L5 to be making a clicking type noise when going from interlace to progressive and vice versa?

It does on my 14L5.

[DoomsDave]

That's a little re-assuring. Thanks.

[chuckster]

Does it come with the component input card? I have the Ikegami 17" version of this monitor and I've been looking for this card forever.

Sadly no, I've been searching for one since I got my set, including the Panasonic and Ikegami versions, but no luck. S-video is great though. It's a 2008 set, and the purity, sharpness and color all really put my '97 20M2U to shame, and its on component. I'm really grappling with the probable cost f the input card vs. the negligible gain.

Interestingly, I had been looking at a few listings on Ebay before I stumbled upon the auction I eventually went for, and about three weeks ago there was a BiN for $110 + $45 shipping which had the card. I was too broke at the time, but I should have gotten it just for that, even though the communication about the set (it hadn't been tested) and shipping weren't exactly reassuring. The BiN sold after I had messaged him about the set, and asked if the card worked. It listed again (guess it didn't work out with payment) with a starting bid of $110 + $45 shipping. I don't see that it sold, but I wonder if he learned how desirable that card was.

[BazookaBen]

That's a little re-assuring. Thanks.

And lots of PC CRT monitors do the same when they switch resolutions. It seems only later models figured out how to muffle/eliminate the clicking sound. Like my Dell P992 (Sony tube) doesn't click, and I switch resolutions dozens of times everyday.

[DoomsDave]

Cool thanks. It only does it when going from 15khz to 31khz and back so I'm guessing it's just that.

[Thamiel]

Cool thanks. It only does it when going from 15khz to 31khz and back so I'm guessing it's just that.

That's normal, both my 20l5 and 14l5 do that.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

[DoomsDave]

Ah cool. That saves me being paranoid.

Another nooby question. How can I get VGA or anything from the PC to the 20L5?

[Fudoh]

How can I get VGA or anything from the PC to the 20L5?

you need a sync combiner. Can be a t-connector, a passive circuit or any of the Extron RGB interfaces.

[bnunesrodrigues]

Hi! You can use a VGA-to-BNC Cable. Go to https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/ and you find the proper cable.

[samiibo]

Hello, everyone! I'm new here, and I could really use some help. I've read through several pages of this thread, but it's big, and I haven't figured out how to search, so I apologize if this stuff has been covered before.

I just picked up a Sony BVM D14H1U from eBay. The description said the monitor powered on, but it couldn't be tested any further since the unit had none of its input cards. I ordered a single BKM-129X so I could hook up RGB or component. I inserted the input card into the first slot, connected my RGB and sync BNC leads, and powered on the unit. It turns on, but I can't get it to display anything. Every couple of power cycles or so, I can hear a strange buzzing coming from the back of the display. I really hope this thing isn't toast. I suppose my question is would ordering a BKM-10R remote help me out at all? I'm wondering if maybe a different input was selected the last time the unit was used. This thing doesn't have any controls whatsoever on the monitor itself. Are BVMs supposed to autodetect the connected input and switch automatically? Or do I need a remote unit to point the display to the correct input?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

[DoomsDave]

How can I get VGA or anything from the PC to the 20L5?

you need a sync combiner. Can be a t-connector, a passive circuit or any of the Extron RGB interfaces.

Hi! You can use a VGA-to-BNC Cable. Go to https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/ and you find the proper cable.

Thanks.

I have an Extron 190F on it's way here but if I understand right, that will downscale anything above 480i right?

Would these cables do the job for 480p on a 20L5? - https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/VGA ... -BNC-RGBHV

[Fudoh]

I have an Extron 190F on it's way here but if I understand right, that will downscale anything above 480i right?

the 190F is an interface. It won't scale or convert anything. You can use to remove the line offset from 480i games to make them display them as 240p on your CRT though.

[DoomsDave]

I have an Extron 190F on it's way here but if I understand right, that will downscale anything above 480i right?

the 190F is an interface. It won't scale or convert anything. You can use to remove the line offset from 480i games to make them display them as 240p on your CRT though.

Yeah I think I've confused myself, this is still really new to me. So the Extron will take whatever I feed it through VGA and spit it out through BNC right?

Also is 62k hours a lot for a BVM? There was one there that only had 15k hours but it would occasionally make a loud "whine" noise and I know nothing about repairing CRTs so didn't want to risk it. Sorry for all the dumb questions.

[Einzelherz]

I have an Extron 190F on it's way here but if I understand right, that will downscale anything above 480i right?

the 190F is an interface. It won't scale or convert anything. You can use to remove the line offset from 480i games to make them display them as 240p on your CRT though.

Yeah I think I've confused myself, this is still really new to me. So the Extron will take whatever I feed it through VGA and spit it out through BNC right?

Also is 62k hours a lot for a BVM? There was one there that only had 15k hours but it would occasionally make a loud "whine" noise and I know nothing about repairing CRTs so didn't want to risk it. Sorry for all the dumb questions.

62K is fine. There are plenty of owners on here with 80-115k, iirc. Don't worry about repairs until it's pretty clear you need one.

Are you trying to get VGA on this from a computer or are you trying to get 480p on this from a console?

[DoomsDave]

Ok cool. The picture looks great and I doubt I'll be putting in tens of thousands of hours so should be good.

Trying to get 480p from a PC. Right now I'm just using component to get 480p from consoles. I would like to get 480p Dreamcast on this though but only have a VGA cable for that too.

[Fudoh]

I would like to get 480p Dreamcast on this though but only have a VGA cable for that too.

that's what the Extron 190F will solve for you. You input RGBHV into the interface and get RGsB instead. Problem solved. The same will work for your PC.

[DoomsDave]

I get it now, thanks for your help.

[Einzelherz]

Dammit. Thanks to Fudoh I just bought a 190F. I don't even really have a use for it, but $20 new seemed like an ok expense for a thing I *might* use one day...