Fudoh's ode to old display technology

[Guspaz]

Samsung is supposed to be one of the better ones for 240p support, but I guess that could be a thing. You'd want to check with your PVM or upcoming BVM to see if that works.

It's reportedly the only way to play PSOne Classics in 240p, so it's an option worth investigating.

[AndehX]

it comes with the BKM-21D card and analog RGB/Component card. I'm guessing the BKM-21D can support composite input?

[Fudoh]

yes, it does. Once the 21D is installed the BNC inputs on the stock RGB board will support composite as well (using the 21D's decoder).

[tevey]

I have a D20F1E and ps1 classics works with psp over component

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[AndehX]

yes, it does. Once the 21D is installed the BNC inputs on the stock RGB board will support composite as well (using the 21D's decoder).

excellent. I see the 21D supports composite and RGsB, but what are the other inputs for? Doesn't look like a signal im familiar with...

[Guspaz]

SDI: Serial Digital Interface. Think of it as the professional equivalent of HDMI, using a single BNC connector. It's what's used in broadcast, live video, etc. It's the output used by cameras, the input used by video mixers, etc.

Unfortunately, I think the BKM-21D only supports 480i digitally (480p was very unpopular with SDI due to broadcast being 480i, and then they moved to HD), and it's very hard to find HDMI-to-SDI converters that support 480i.

HDMI-to-HDSDI converters are relatively cheap and very easy to find (even Monoprice makes one for $80), but they tend to only support 720p/1080i/1080p, which the BMK-21D does not appear to support.

There are HD-SDI boards for BVMs, like the BKM-41HD and BKM-42HD, but I have no idea what models of BVM they support, and they're probably expensive.

So, basically SDI is going to be useless to you, since to use it you'd need a device that can output 480i over HDMI, and a standard-def HDMI-to-SDI converter (which is probably super hard to find).

[Fudoh]

The only affordable SDI source for us is a modded DVD player. These were trendy in times before HDMI, since it was the only way to get the untouched digital signal from DVDs. All better video processors (DVDO, Lumagen, PMS and others) had (usually optional) SDI input boards.

[AndehX]

Yeah I figured it would be relatively useless to me, but as long as my PS1 classics work via component on my PSP, I'll be happy then, since I wont need to use s-video or composite. Every other console I have, uses RGB.

[RGB-A]

Hi. About a year ago I wrote in this great forum because buy a BVM-A32E1WM that came without input from BKM-68X analogue video.

Well, now I BKM-68X and monitor working perfectly configured in RGB mode. I could make a dream come true and I'm happy.

I have tried different consoles running perfectly: Sega Saturn NTSC JAP, Super Famicom, PAL Dreamcast, Playstation one, 2, 3.
Some images. Sorry for quality from my telephone camera:
























But one of my favorite Sega Genesis/Mega Drive console no synchronization. The monitor in interlaced says mesage "No Sync", like when no sync cable is not connected. Does anyone know how one works perfectly Sega Genesis in a BVM-A series monitor?

I use Sync Strike+VGA to BNC cable, and RGB Scart cables for Genesis/Mega Drive. Versión Csync retrogaming cables, and Composite Sync standar cable. None of them work.

[chuckster]

Wow! That looks super, man, congrats!

I wish I could get a BVM, even a 14". It seems Ebay and wide exposure are even driving the smaller sizes through the roof. I totally understand not wanting to sell for peanuts, but it makes it hard for broke and unreasonably curious retro gamers like me!

In light of the rude seller above, it's also important to note these types of monitors (BVMs more than PVMs) were bought by companies and studios rather than individuals. There is the rare photographer or pro-am director that may have gotten one, but by and large, if an individual has one to sell at this point, he probably got it cheap/free from a company equipment dump and is looking to flip.

[AndehX]

Yeah I couldn't resist the 20" BVM on bblist for £150. I'll probably never see one in the UK again thats even close to that price, let alone a 20" model. Had to snap it up.

[RGB-A]

Does anyone know how to properly connect successfully SEGA Genesis to monitor BVM-A?

I have seen many pictures and videos with SEGA Genesis BVM monitors working perfectly.

Please help

[Ed Oscuro]

You're not getting it firsthand from me, but I've read here that the A series is the most picky about sync ranges. It might simply not accept that signal, but who knows, maybe there's a workaround. Don't think you want to use composite, but you could try that.

[RGB-A]

It seems that the BVM-series monitors are so demanding Sync signal as it can be XRGB mini Framemeister.

I read that they need RGB Scart Cable SEGA Genesis with some kind of raw sync, or boosted sync. To amplify the signal Sync Genesis.

I also read about adding a variable resistor in sync signal on the Scart RGB cable Genesis. Does anyone know anything about this?

Does anyone know if this also applies to BVM-A monitors?

I want to see Genesis as soon as possible in my BVM-A32E1WM

More photographs. (Sonic Jam) Sonic Sega Saturn version:

[tevey]

I'm looking to connect a raspberry pi to my D20F1E and don't want to use the composite out on the raspberry, would something like this work or will it introduce alot of input lag?

[KatKya]

Almost bought a Kramer FC-4046 the other night, forgetting that it didn't take well to 240p.

Anyone ever figure out a solution for getting the output to properly sync, or is it still essentially a lost cause for that unit? Had a thought about splitting the sync being fed in, and reintroducing it after the fact, but not only would that likely not work, it would probably be much more complicated and expensive than just buying a more compatible unit.

[FinalBaton]

I'm looking to connect a raspberry pi to my D20F1E and don't want to use the composite out on the raspberry, would something like this work or will it introduce alot of input lag?

I bought this http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-More-1080P-HD ... 1963568733 particular model to send my hdmi sources to my multisync RGB CRT, and it wors great.
(it's not in stock on ebay at the moment it seems, but you can surely find it on another site).

[nissling]

Got myself a new lens some weeks ago and tried it out by then, but it wasn't until now that I had a look at some of the CRT pictures I shot. This one turned out pretty cool. It's actually an RGB modded PC-Engine.

[amaradona]

Which crt is it?
It is so crisp and sharp!

[AndehX]

If thats a 20F1E, then im in for a pleasant surprise when mine arrives

[nissling]

It's a 20F1J, which is the exact same as the F1E except for the PSU. Both has EBU phosphor to my understanding, which is strange for a Japanese model.

Isn't it weird that when I'm using my XRGB-Mini along with one of my LCDs I'm missing the BVM, but when I'm at my BVM setup I want the XRGB-Mini the more I play on it. First world problem right here.

[Fudoh]

why is Ice Climber running on a PC Engine ?

[nissling]

Because I got back my RGB modded PC-E recently, so I just went through what I had on my TED. Besides, a fellow of mine have borrowed my Nes so in case I'd be in need to play this ridiculously boring game I can do it on my PC-E meanwhile.

[Einzelherz]

I got very lucky on a 20L2MD from eBay. I paid more than I'd have liked to, but still less than the going rate. I requested that it be shipped face down, with firm padding on the screen, via fedex, and supported on all 6 sides. They did all of that (though the 6 sides was mostly packing paper) and it arrived safely. Normally I loathe FedEx but they just made it all up to me.

It has a little bit of curling on the top half inch or so of the screen. I'll have to dig into the geometry to see if I can mend it. It's so insignificant though I might not even bother.

[mvsfan]

that phillips looks nice too.

btw, My PVM-14N6U was shipped fedex in a big box with lots of packing and it arrived safely.

a PVM-20N6U that i bought a bit later got damaged beyond repair by UPS. it was also packed well. i would never use them again for something so heavy and fragile.

my latest pickup was an 800 line JVC AV36S33 i got for $25.



It has really good geometery and its sharp. My camera adds some digital noise to the screenshot though thats not there in person. It is also much brigher than the screenshot shows.

[Einzelherz]

The Philips is ok. I bought it new ten years ago (my first "real job" purchase) and I don't know that I could ever part with it. It's digital capable too.

So my previous PVM is the 14L5 on top in that photo above. It's 800TVL. This new one is 600 TVL. All I *know* that that means is that there is more space between each colored vertical line. Does it necessarily mean that the pixels would be less sharp, as well? They're softer and more rounded looking than my 14L5's, but I want to know if this is normal.

The other issue I've got is the top right corner has some color separation. This picture shows the red bleed coming out on the right, but it has blue bleed on the left as well.



Is this one of those problems that can only be fixes via surgery?

And one more: while I was navigating the service menu to adjust the geometry something strange happened a few minutes in. The OSD menu won't show with the screen in normal scan mode. It shows in underscan and overscan just fine, but as soon as those are disabled the OSD disappears. Admittedly it makes adjustments easier as it's not showing, but it's missing at all times making it slightly more of a hassle to switch between COMP and RGB settings. Is this a bug or did I accidentally toggle something?

[atheistgod1999]

So my previous PVM is the 14L5 on top in that photo above. It's 800TVL. This new one is 600 TVL. All I *know* that that means is that there is more space between each colored vertical line. Does it necessarily mean that the pixels would be less sharp, as well? They're softer and more rounded looking than my 14L5's, but I want to know if this is normal.

I think that they'd actually be sharper.

The other issue I've got is the top right corner has some color separation. This picture shows the red bleed coming out on the right, but it has blue bleed on the left as well.



Is this one of those problems that can only be fixes via surgery?

And one more: while I was navigating the service menu to adjust the geometry something strange happened a few minutes in. The OSD menu won't show with the screen in normal scan mode. It shows in underscan and overscan just fine, but as soon as those are disabled the OSD disappears. Admittedly it makes adjustments easier as it's not showing, but it's missing at all times making it slightly more of a hassle to switch between COMP and RGB settings. Is this a bug or did I accidentally toggle something?

It's called "convergence". That should probably be adjustable in a calibration menu labeled something like "H CV TR". If not, you have to open it up and adjust the yoke and move around rings.

[Guspaz]

So my previous PVM is the 14L5 on top in that photo above. It's 800TVL. This new one is 600 TVL. All I *know* that that means is that there is more space between each colored vertical line.

Just to clarify, a monitor with 600TVL would have *less* space between scanlines than a monitor with 800TVL. The lower the TVL, the less narrow the scanlines, and the less narrow the scanlines, the less black space between them.

[Einzelherz]

TVL values aren't related to the horizontal scanlines. It's the number of individual vertical lines that can be distinguished in a given area. So a higher TVL means they're crammed in tighter meaning there's less space between.

[cfx]

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