Issues calibrating Kv-27fv310

[Brad251]

I am using Artemio's 240p suite for Wii to calibrate my kv-27fv310 that I just got and am having an issue with the Pluge and Color Bars patterns. I am using third party component cables. I adjusted the black level with the Pluge Pattern using the RGB full range setting. Then I tried adjusting the white level with the color bars pattern. In the color bars test pattern directions it says that if you calibrated the black level correctly, the rectangles under 1 should be barely visible. However, the rectangles under 1 are very visible when I adjust the black level with the pluge pattern.

The other problem I am having is adjusting the white level. With the color bars pattern, you are supposed to raised the contrast until you can't distinguish between the two bars under F and lower it until you can clearly tell them apart. When I lower the contrast until I can tell the two blocks under "F" apart, the contrast is way too low. If I turn up the contrast to the point to where it is no longer to dim to my eyes, the blocks under "F" for white, red, blue and green are blurred together and can't be distinguished. I did not have any of these problems with my Trinitron kv-24fs100.

Do you guys have any suggestions for what I could do and why this would be happening? I am familiar with the Trinitron service menu so have no problem adjusting a setting in there if need be.

[Ed Oscuro]

Personally, I disregard in-game calibrations which tell me that X or Y should be visible or not visible. On a well-calibrated set or monitor many games will still ask you pull down the brightness level to hide some elements, which rarely ever helps and just makes things hard to see, and will screw up the levels you're accustomed to with other content. Speaking mostly about 3D games, usually the only real value of contrast/brightness adjustment is hiding color banding from limited precision color values in the shadows, and maaaybe fixing the game creator's bad job at matching the contrast range to a good set. In my view, if the video output is displaying that "barely visible" image clearly, the in-game art is probably going to have a lot of detail at the same values in dark areas.

Instead I'd suggest noting your current brightness and contrast settings, and then putting them back to their normal / neutral values. Then I suggest setting the black level directly. In the service menu, look for a setting like this:

SBRT 22 0-63 Sub-Picture Brightness
It should be named something similar. The effect should be immediately visible as reducing the level of glow on the screen.

This will let you pull back the brightness of black content - making blacks actually black, without making details invisible. Increasing this value will create a white glow in the blacks, which a lot of people are accustomed to but should be avoided.

[bobrocks95]

I am using Artemio's 240p suite for Wii to calibrate my kv-27fv310 that I just got and am having an issue with the Pluge and Color Bars patterns. I am using third party component cables. I adjusted the black level with the Pluge Pattern using the RGB full range setting. Then I tried adjusting the white level with the color bars pattern. In the color bars test pattern directions it says that if you calibrated the black level correctly, the rectangles under 1 should be barely visible. However, the rectangles under 1 are very visible when I adjust the black level with the pluge pattern.

The other problem I am having is adjusting the white level. With the color bars pattern, you are supposed to raised the contrast until you can't distinguish between the two bars under F and lower it until you can clearly tell them apart. When I lower the contrast until I can tell the two blocks under "F" apart, the contrast is way too low. If I turn up the contrast to the point to where it is no longer to dim to my eyes, the blocks under "F" for white, red, blue and green are blurred together and can't be distinguished. I did not have any of these problems with my Trinitron kv-24fs100.

Do you guys have any suggestions for what I could do and why this would be happening? I am familiar with the Trinitron service menu so have no problem adjusting a setting in there if need be.

Note for the color bar pattern that it's very easy for your eyes to adjust and just see a blur of color. Blinking frequently, looking away for a minute, etc may make you notice there is in fact a difference on the high end. This may not be the correct methodology (maybe you should always be able to notice the difference?), but it is at least a fact.

It's unfortunate that the high-voltage regulator in the fv310 makes contrast harder to adjust. Normally it's "crank it up until whites bloom then dial it back" but whites don't really bloom on the set.

Another thing to note is you might want to do color balance adjustments before attempting the contrast adjustment. I don't remember the recommended order to do adjustments in, but it's in the service manual.

[Guspaz]

Personally, I disregard in-game calibrations which tell me that X or Y should be visible or not visible. On a well-calibrated set or monitor many games will still ask you pull down the brightness level to hide some elements, which rarely ever helps and just makes things hard to see, and will screw up the levels you're accustomed to with other content. Speaking mostly about 3D games, usually the only real value of contrast/brightness adjustment is hiding color banding from limited precision color values in the shadows, and maaaybe fixing the game creator's bad job at matching the contrast range to a good set. In my view, if the video output is displaying that "barely visible" image clearly, the in-game art is probably going to have a lot of detail at the same values in dark areas.

The 240p test suite is outputting a proper SMPTE test pattern. This is not some contrast-calibration in a 3D game, it's an industry-standard test pattern. The correct procedure for calibrating the black level against the colour bars is indeed to adjust the brightness until the first and second bars are indistinguishable. This is because the values of the three bars are 3.5, 7.5, and 11.5, and the correct black level is 7.5: the first bar is darker than black, so the way to know that the black level is calibrated correctly is when you can no longer see any difference between the first two bars. This lets you know that you've got your black level to the right place. The third bar is supposed to be a little bit lighter than black.

[Ed Oscuro]

Might this be related to using full range? The Wii U apparently doesn't support this, though it sounds like this may not be an issue with the Wii - and in any case the OP still needs a good answer to their question, unfortunately.

I still believe that direct black level adjustment on these sets is useful, though I'd like to find a guide to using them best.

Black level vs. brightness and contrast aside, here's a classic guide which may help:
http://www.poynton.com/notes/brightness_and_contrast/

[Guspaz]

AFAIK, the concept of "full range" doesn't apply to analog TV video, so the Wii is probably outputting a limited range signal. So yeah, maybe it's because the display was set to expect full range, which does't make sense for analog?

[Ikaruga11]

The Wii outputs Full Range RGB (0-255), while the Wii U only outputs Limited Range RGB (16-235). Having a limited range signal mapped to a full range display will result in washed out colors.

I'm not sure if Wii Mode on the Wii U does Full or Limited.

[bobrocks95]

AFAIK, the concept of "full range" doesn't apply to analog TV video, so the Wii is probably outputting a limited range signal. So yeah, maybe it's because the display was set to expect full range, which does't make sense for analog?

This has always confused me and I thought the general belief was that analog didn't even have a concept of "RGB Range" in general. If someone could step in and definitively explain that topic I'd be incredibly grateful.

[Ed Oscuro]

Thought I'd just knock it out - it does stand to reason that analog can do 8-bit color (ranges 0-255) so I'm not too worried about that bit.

[Brad251]

I went back to the Pluge pattern and used to NTSC 7.5 IRE setting this time to adjust black level. Then went I used the Color Bars pattern, the rectangle under "1" was barely visible like it is supposed to be. Does this mean that the Color Bars pattern is intended for the NTSC 7.5 IRE setting and not for the RGB Full Range setting like I had used before?

[Ed Oscuro]

Wow, this has ping-ponged back and forth. So, just to clarify, how are you hooked up? Did you use brightness and contrast, or the service menu?

It does sound like you've got it working, but to confirm that it's right you can try viewing some colors, and see if setting up with the other pattern (0 IRE, I guess?) looks washed out. If so, then you've got it right with using the 7.5 IRE pattern, I'd guess.

[Brad251]

Wow, this has ping-ponged back and forth. So, just to clarify, how are you hooked up? Did you use brightness and contrast, or the service menu?

It does sound like you've got it working, but to confirm that it's right you can try viewing some colors, and see if setting up with the other pattern (0 IRE, I guess?) looks washed out. If so, then you've got it right with using the 7.5 IRE pattern, I'd guess.

I am hooked up using third party component cables (Fosmon brand from Amazon.com). Before calibrating the black level I used the SMPTE Color Bars pattern and adjust the color level using a "blue only" screen (setting RON and GON to "0"). When calibrating the black level using the RBG Full Setting in the Pluge Pattern, I just used the brightness control. This made the "1" bar in the Color Bars pattern very visible. The screen also looked washed out viewing the 240p suite menu screen and when viewing the RGB screens in the "White and RGB screens" test pattern.

I then calibrated the black level again with just the Brightness control using the Pluge Pattern and the 7.5 IRE NTSC setting. This then made the "1" bar in the Color Bars pattern barely visible as it was supposed to be. However, I could not adjust the contrast using the Color Bars pattern after getting the black level correct because I could not get the White blocks under "F" to blend together; even after cranking the contrast all the way. At this point I just lowered the contrast until the screen didn't hurt my eyes and it didn't look washed out. After this, the 240p suite menu, RGB screens and NES games I tested did not look washed out like before.

After this I played Super Mario Bros. on Fce Ultra GX and it hurt my eyes to look at. The contrast and some of the colors were overblown and the screen was a little too bright. I then turned down the Sub-Picture Brightness (SBRT) from 14 to 9 and it helped quite a bit. I re-calibrated the black level with this lower SBRT setting and eyeballed the contrast. This looked quite a bit better. However, the reds were far too overblown so I lowered the Red Drive (RDRV) level from 36 to 26 and the reds looked much better. I also noticed this red push when viewing the "White Screen" test pattern. I could see a red tint in the corners off the plain white screen and lowering the RDRV value got rid of this red tint. I did not notice a red tint on any non-white screens. I do notice, though, that when I lower the Red drive (RDRV) value, reds look better, but the colors overall look less vibrant and the screen looks slightly bluer.

Is there a good way to adjust each individual color using the service menu and one of the test patterns without the use of special equipment? Was I correct in lowering the Red drive (RDRV) value to lessen the red push in the picture?

[FinalBaton]

Is there a good way to adjust each individual color using the service menu and one of the test patterns without the use of special equipment? Was I correct in lowering the Red drive (RDRV) value to lessen the red push in the picture?

Have you disabled the red push ? (AXNT and AXPL in the group VP2)

Also, when adjusting the gray ramp, you have a lot of settings to handle at the same time, so it's a bit of a pain of course.

You have "Brightness" (overall brightness of picture) and "Picture" (I believe this is not contrast, but instead the amount of power behind the cells' intensity/voltage from the gun) in the regular menu, but you also have "Sub brightness" (SBRT in the group VP2, wich seem to work differently than the "Brightness" setting) and actual "Contrast" (SCON in the group VID_ADJ) in the service menu.
And depending on your video connection, there's also the setting YAPS in the group 3D_COMB that gives a huge contrast boost.

I would start with adjusting the grey ramp using these 5 settings. There's a lot of variables, but be patient and I believe it will pay off

[Brad251]

Is there a good way to adjust each individual color using the service menu and one of the test patterns without the use of special equipment? Was I correct in lowering the Red drive (RDRV) value to lessen the red push in the picture?

Have you disabled the red push ? (AXNT and AXPL in the group VP2)

Also, when adjusting the gray ramp, you have a lot of settings to handle at the same time, so it's a bit of a pain of course.

You have "Brightness" (overall brightness of picture) and "Picture" (I believe this is not contrast, but instead the amount of power behind the cells' intensity/voltage from the gun) in the regular menu, but you also have "Sub brightness" (SBRT in the group VP2, wich seem to work differently than the "Brightness" setting) and actual "Contrast" (SCON in the group VID_ADJ) in the service menu.
And depending on your video connection, there's also the setting YAPS in the group 3D_COMB that gives a huge contrast boost.

I would start with adjusting the grey ramp using these 5 settings. There's a lot of variables, but be patient and I believe it will pay off

I disabled AXNT and it seemed to get rid of the red push but made the colors much more washed out. AXPL was already disabled. I have adjusted the gray ramp using everything that you suggested. The gray bars are gray and do not appear to have any red or blue bias. I am using component cables so the YAPS setting does not work for me.

[FinalBaton]

I disabled AXNT and it seemed to get rid of the red push but made the colors much more washed out. AXPL was already disabled. I have adjusted the gray ramp using everything that you suggested. The gray bars are gray and do not appear to have any red or blue bias. I am using component cables so the YAPS setting does not work for me.

I guess what's next is to calibrate the colors

Tweak RDRV/GDRV/BDRV and RCUT/GCUT/BCUT. The DRV ones adjust light Reds/Greens/Blues and the CUT ones adjust dark Reds/Greens/Blues

There's also GDOF/BDOF and GCOF/BCOF that help further tweak colors. For those I started with the suggested values from the service manual (4/15/5/12) and tweaked them a little. Right now I roll with 3/12/4/4.

[Brad251]

I disabled AXNT and it seemed to get rid of the red push but made the colors much more washed out. AXPL was already disabled. I have adjusted the gray ramp using everything that you suggested. The gray bars are gray and do not appear to have any red or blue bias. I am using component cables so the YAPS setting does not work for me.

I guess what's next is to calibrate the colors

Tweak RDRV/GDRV/BDRV and RCUT/GCUT/BCUT. The DRV ones adjust light Reds/Greens/Blues and the CUT ones adjust dark Reds/Greens/Blues

There's also GDOF/BDOF and GCOF/BCOF that help further tweak colors. For those I started with the suggested values from the service manual (4/15/5/12) and tweaked them a little. Right now I roll with 3/12/4/4.

Should I be using a test pattern to tweak the individual colors or would I just be eyeballing the color? I read up on how to use the "color bars with gray scale" test pattern in the 240p suite and after adjusting the color level in the regular menu by filtering out all colors except for blue when using this pattern, you are supposed to use a green and red filter to adjust the individual red and green levels so that the relevant color blocks are of the same intensity with the respective filter on. So basically, the same method as using the blue filter except that you are adjusting the individual red and green color levels with the red and green filters.

[Taiyaki]

Did you pick up a used set? I expect usually the FV line comes with near perfect calibration for white balance and close to perfect color calibration. I don't think you should need to tweak it much.


From my experience with multiple FV300 (and maybe 310 is the same) I think you might have to pull down the high and low end red's (red drive and red cut) in the service menu because red is noticeably pushed even using the standard color temperature (I've done this on sets out of the box). Aside from that the rest should be near perfect (of course geometry and convergence will need some tweaking though).


Another way to see red push is on full black screen (like the black background on an AV channel) in a pitch black room. If you push the brightness up a bit beyond it's proper setting (what is now a days referred to as contrast, not the picture setting which is actual brightness) then you should see the black having a very very slightly noticeable red tinge to it. This can help in finding the sweet spot too.

[Brad251]

After turning the red push setting off (AXNT), I calibrated the colors with the "color bars with gray scale" pattern using the blue, red and green filters on the TV. Blue and Red appear to be perfect according to the pattern when using each respective color filter with AXNT set to off. I was not able to get green perfect when using the green filter. The only way I could adjust green correctly was to increase the color level in the regular menu but then that would throw blue and red off and I couldn't correct red and blue if I did this so I just focused on getting red and blue right.

I am using the "neutral" color temperature and even though blue and red are just about perfect according to the test pattern, mid to light blues look too bright. For example, the Sega logo at the beginning of Genesis games looks more like a sky blue and it should be darker. I also notice the water in the beginning of Sonic 3 is too light as Sonic is flying over the water. Would I have better results setting my color temperature to "warm" and then calibrating the colors or should I try to adjust B DRIVE and B CUT OFF settings?

[Taiyaki]

I don't think you can expect to get perfectly matching colors but then again I haven't used those test patterns to calibrate. It may sound primitive but what I did is compared it to a led screen that I know was calibrated professionally and put them side by side and compared the same snes games with the same backdrops on both units. I used Zelda a Link to the Past a lot since the dark world near Ganon's pyramid uses a bunch of mix colors (colors like yellow, redish/purplish sky and brown ground which really helps see how accurate color mixtures are like), then also going to the the light world which has flat green and blue (grass and water) as well as some red details on objects which help fine tune it).


Now maybe your unit differs but on most of mine I found that basically just lowering red on both highs and lows (and this is true on all my FV units) the calibration is near perfect (I think only on one did I have to push blue up a bit). Yes with a very sharp eye you might notice the green is ever so slightly off when doing this comparison and I don't think you can get it absolutely 100% identical, but it's so close most people would never see the difference.


On my FS100 Trinitron I noticed yellows are duller, blues and reds were not as fine (more leakage with reds too) and the overall picture doesn't compare favorably to an FV300. You probably don't realize how good the colors are until you compare it to a non high end Trinitron. The FV300/310 are the most impressive (non pro monitor, non XBR) crt's that I've ever seen. Some people prefer BVM/PVM's but I even sold off my BVM's because of how much I prefer the picture on these calibrated high end consumer sets.


Btw for what it's worth I wouldn't really touch the AXNT settings but that's just me (seems to work for others such as FinalBaton though).

[Brad251]

I don't think you can expect to get perfectly matching colors but then again I haven't used those test patterns to calibrate. It may sound primitive but what I did is compared it to a led screen that I know was calibrated professionally and put them side by side and compared the same snes games with the same backdrops on both units. I used Zelda a Link to the Past a lot since the dark world near Ganon's pyramid uses a bunch of mix colors (colors like yellow, redish/purplish sky and brown ground which really helps see how accurate color mixtures are like), then also going to the the light world which has flat green and blue (grass and water) as well as some red details on objects which help fine tune it).


Now maybe your unit differs but on most of mine I found that basically just lowering red on both highs and lows (and this is true on all my FV units) the calibration is near perfect (I think only on one did I have to push blue up a bit). Yes with a very sharp eye you might notice the green is ever so slightly off when doing this comparison and I don't think you can get it absolutely 100% identical, but it's so close most people would never see the difference.


On my FS100 Trinitron I noticed yellows are duller, blues and reds were not as fine (more leakage with reds too) and the overall picture doesn't compare favorably to an FV300. You probably don't realize how good the colors are until you compare it to a non high end Trinitron. The FV300/310 are the most impressive (non pro monitor, non XBR) crt's that I've ever seen. Some people prefer BVM/PVM's but I even sold off my BVM's because of how much I prefer the picture on these calibrated high end consumer sets.


Btw for what it's worth I wouldn't really touch the AXNT settings but that's just me (seems to work for others such as FinalBaton though).

I understand that I probably can't get perfect colors but blues do seem off. On every other TV I have seen the Genesis Sega logo at the beginning off a game, the logo was a darker shade of blue. I will have to compare the colors on my fv310 to my LCD TV. My colors aren't perfect but I was playing games like Comix Zone and Super Mario World yesterday through Retroarch and I couldn't believe how good the games looked. Compared to my kv-24fs100 that I just got rid off, the kv310 blows that TV out of the water as far as image quality.

I have experimented with turning the Axis NTSC (AXNT) setting on/off while playing games and looking at a color bars pattern and as far as I can tell it just reduces the intensity of the reds. Final Baton appears to be correct on this. With AXNT on, reds are way too overblown. When I used the "color bars with gray scale" pattern and adjusted red, blue and green with their respective color filters, I was able to adjust blue and red just about perfectly (i.e. blue and red squares same intensity as rest of screen. With AXNT on, I could adjust blue correctly but could not get the red squares to be the same intensity as the rest of the screen no matter what settings I adjusted. AXNT doesn't seem to affect green. It makes sense that if you have AXNT on, you would have to turn down the high and low reds to get a good image because that setting jacks up reds.

[Taiyaki]

I don't think the FV300 has the AXNT setting but it has something else that is red push with a different setting that ranges from 0 to 3 instead of 0 or 1. I think red push on the FV300 alters it too dramatically so I find it easier to move the levels on the high and lows manually and find the sweet spot.

Your blue should not be noticeably off that's for sure. If all colors are too bright I would blame the contrast setting but if it's only blue that seems too bright and not giving a deep blue maybe you actually need to push up the high reds to give it more depth? I'm not sure as I'm not a pro at color calibration but whatever you do I recommend only playing with the six tabs for the RGB Drives and Cuts, anything you need to fine tune colors should be there. Fine tuning green and red can actually affect blue to some degrees as well (although that may seem weird). On one set I pushed blue up a bit, did you try doing that too?

[FinalBaton]

FWIW, I have the blue drive close to 0.

I guess you can leave the red push on and lower the red highs and lows (i did this at first).
But turning the red push off worked better on my set.

And Aldo : I calibrate like Taiyaki, while comparing to an lcd

[Brad251]

I have been busy trying to calibrate my FV310 and wanted to give an update on my progress and share some things I have learned along the way. I was able to borrow a colorimeter from a friend called the i1display pro and this has allowed me to get an accurate grayscale. I used the i1display pro with free calibration software called ColorHCFR. This basically involved displaying a pure white screen of two different intensities, measuring the red, green and blue levels at those to intensities and then adjusting the red, green and blue levels to make sure they were equal using the drive and cut controls in the service menu. I was also able to measure how accurate the FV310 is in displaying primary (red, green, blue) and secondary (cyan, magenta, yellow) colors according to the color space for SD content referred to as Rec. 601.

What I found based on my measurements is that the FV310 produces fairly accurate colors. Red, green, magenta and yellow are almost perfectly accurate. Cyan and Green were a little off based on the Rec. 601 standards but it was nothing major. However, turning the "AXNT" option on the service menu significantly lessens the accuracy of reds according to the Rec. 601 standard. The "AXNT" option also lessens the accuracy of yellow and magnenta to a smaller degree. AXNT works by increasing the luminance or "intensity" of red, yellow and magenta. Most of this increase in luminance is devoted to reds. There is still a significant increase in intensity with yellow and magenta but it is not nearly as large as with red. I can understand if someone likes the effect of turning AXNT on but the colors displayed on the FV310 will be much more accurate by turning the option off. Surprisingly, turning AXNT on does not affect your grayscale because it doesn't actually increase the Red level, it just increases the luminance of Red which is a separate thing.

I don't turn AXNT on and even though colors are supposedly accurate with it off, I still find reds on the FV310 to be a little to dull. Without turning AXNT on, all I can do is increase the red gain (RDRV) and red offset (RCUT). Increasing RDRV and RCUT does make reds more vibrant but it also introduces more red into the overall picture and I have to decide if I like that. Increasing RDRV and RCUT also affects your grayscale and increasing them too much will really mess up your grayscale. The same goes for any drive and cut control. If the FV310 had separate color controls for red, green and blue, this problem would be solved. The "drive" and "cut" controls are not color controls but rather white balance controls that affect grayscale.

What I have learned about color temperature and video games is that video games do not use a standard color temperature. TV and movies use a standard color temp of 6500K which is considered warm but this does not apply to video games. This means that there is no right or wrong color temp to choose for video games. It is just a preference. The important thing is that your grayscale is consistent and this can be done at any color temperature. I have always liked cooler/more blue looking color temperatures with video games so I adjusted the grayscale on my set based on a color temp of 9300K. This was done with the aid of my ColorHCFR software. Computer monitors typically use a color temp around 9300k. I experimented adjusting my grayscale based on a warmer color temp like 6500k and 7500k but the results just looked too yellow/orange to me.

[FinalBaton]

I have observed the same thing regarding the reds (a little dull) as you did. Reds on my PVM are a hell of a lot richer.

But hey, the 310 is a consumer set after all. We can't expect it to be every bit as good as a good PVM.

[Brad251]

I also wanted to share the service menu adjustments I made after using my colorimeter.

For grayscale based on the 9300K color temp in "Pro Mode" with color temp set to "neutral":

RDRV = 40
GDRV = 20
BDRV = 24
RCUT = 34
GCUT = 13
BCUT = 13
SBRT = 14
SCON =10

For grayscale based on the 7500K color temp in "Pro Mode" with color temp set to "neutral":

RDRV = 40
GDRV = 20
BDRV = 16
RCUT = 35
GCUT = 13
BCUT = 8
SBRT = 14
SCON =10

For grayscale based on the 6500K color temp in "Pro Mode" with color temp set to "neutral":

RDRV = 43
GDRV = 20
BDRV = 13
RCUT = 38
GCUT = 13
BCUT = 6
SBRT = 14
SCON =10

My original settings prior to adjustment in "standard" mode with temp set to "neutral"
-I measured my grayscale prior to any adjustments and found the temp to be at around 11,500K and this was likely because Blue was jacked up to about 140%. Red was at 80% and Green was close to 100%.

RDRV = 36
GDRV = 20
BDRV = 27
RCUT = 31
GCUT = 13
BCUT = 19
SBRT = 14
SCON = 10

[Brad251]

I have observed the same thing regarding the reds (a little dull) as you did. Reds on my PVM are a hell of a lot richer.

But hey, the 310 is a consumer set after all. We can't expect it to be every bit as good as a good PVM.

I understand. I am still happy with the FV310. I think the overall image quality trumps the fact that reds are a little subdued on the set. It depends on the game you play as well. Red looks relatively vibrant on some games with a lot of red and dull in other games.

[Ikaruga11]

Interesting story. Thanks for the update and calibration values, Brad. The 310 is undoubtedly the best consumer CRT for 240p and 480i gaming imo. If I can't get a good 20"+ BVM, I'll probably go with that.

I've heard red push is a common problem in a lot of different Trinitron models. I prefer cooler color temperature because whites look noticably less "yellow" than the standard color temperature.

[Ed Oscuro]

Are the settings for your last set for 7500K or 6500K (or something else)? 7500K is listed twice but the numbers are different.

[Taiyaki]

What I'm learning from this is that the FV310 does not have the same quirks as the FV300, at least it would appear (maybe they do but each of us here may see things differently).


I was always of the impression that they were near identical tubes and close to identical boards aside from the FV310 having the High voltage regulator (which I would argue is not necessarily a plus as geometrical warping based on light is a unique attribute of the CRT's, so if going for the nostalgia it may be preferable to not have this feature).


I think there must also be several revisions because on my FV300's I don't recall the AXNT functioning as on or off (0 or 1) but rather having multiple steps (like a range from 0~4). I think it was on 1 and I just left it there.


I wouldn't say reds pop in intensity, and they're not particularly dull but the color did need to be dialed back to leave room to a more balanced picture (fairly close to my studio level calibrated lcd). You won't get it absolutely perfect, what matters is that you feel the colors are well balanced and that no color comes across as off in your eyes, at least in my opinion. I will just say that when comparing to other consumer CRT's, this range of sets are way more accurate (frankly than any CRT I've seen aside from pro monitors).


It's exactly as Brad says really, games do not have a standard like movies do. Although in general for retro games a standard color setting is preferable in my experience (over warm).

[Brad251]

Are the settings for your last set for 7500K or 6500K (or something else)? 7500K is listed twice but the numbers are different.

I edited my post. The settings for the set you are referring to are for 6500K and I also added my settings prior to adjustment.