Ok yes that's definitely abnormal, happens on all sources? Have never seen that one before. Could it be an issue somewhere on one of the boards?KatKya wrote:Here's a better video. Downscaling the video makes it show up better for whatever reason. This is with the brightness of the CRT raised slightly above it's default setting, and the ISO of the camera raised from 200 at the beginning of the video to 1600 for the second half.
Ignore the ringing, but note the trails coming out as the start prompt flashes.
Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I unscrewed and removed the four smaller screws and unscrewed the two bigger screws but I still can't remove the board. My 14" PVM's boards only had two screws and could instantly be removed but these ones seem that they're connected differently. Not sure if I'm missing something cause the manual makes it seem simple, although it does mention that when installing another board you need to take them all out and reinsert them starting from the right.Fudoh wrote:yes, there's no fan in the monitor itself. Only the HD-SDI cards have a fan. Just get rid of it. I wouldn't worry to much about the opening in the back. Just check after a few weeks how much dust has accumulated around the slot.

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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I don't have one, hence why I ask which is better; the D20F1U or 20L5 for 4:3 480p.Einzelherz wrote:If you've got a 20L5 you're able to pass up, I'll gladly take itOldSchoolGamer1203 wrote:For 240p, I don't really mind, just one that will simply satisfy me enough.Fudoh wrote:For 240p this really depends on the look you're aiming at. Different tubes, different pixel structure and different looks. The BVMs are quite different from what you might have in mind when you think of RGB in the arcades.
You're referring to the Sony BVM-D20F1U, correct? Should I choose that or the Sony PVM-20L5?Fudoh wrote:For 480p there's also the D20 in 4:3.
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FinalBaton
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I think what he meant to say is : you made it sound like you could pass up on a decently priced 20L5 in good condition in favor of a decently priced D20F1U in good condition.OldSchoolGamer1203 wrote:I don't have one, hence why I ask which is better; the D20F1U or 20L5 for 4:3 480p.
Let's say that this context very rarely presents itself. I don't think many of us ever had that luxury

This is why your post was a bit... surprising lol
-FM Synth & Black Metal-
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Sorry for not wording correctly if that's the case. Again I'm new here, so please forgive me.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Yep, any source, from NES up to PS3/Wii U gets it.Taiyaki wrote: Ok yes that's definitely abnormal, happens on all sources? Have never seen that one before. Could it be an issue somewhere on one of the boards?
It's slowly grown more visible over the past year, and while I've heard failing capacitors can cause similar problems, I'm pretty sure it's just the tube getting old.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Excuse the cellphone camera, but this was from when I was running my Win98/DOS machine with a Voodoo3. Used a TSR that came with ran all low-res DOS games at 15KHz. So have a pic of Tyriarn 2000 running on my NEC XM2960. 
IMG_20151219_225403 by Seth Arkada, on Flickr


Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Hello, new to the forum and looking for some quick confirmation on something. I just bought a DVDO iScan HD, which apparently supports RGB. So to connect my SNES to this:

I would need to go on eBay and buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131674564904?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
and this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201475961629?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Someone correct me if I'm doing something wrong. I have a 1-chip original SNES. Thanks

I would need to go on eBay and buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131674564904?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
and this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201475961629?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Someone correct me if I'm doing something wrong. I have a 1-chip original SNES. Thanks
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bobrocks95
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
You need SCART to RCA, not SCART to BNC
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Ah, forgot to mention I have a bunch of BNC female to RCA male converters.bobrocks95 wrote:You need SCART to RCA, not SCART to BNC
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bobrocks95
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- Location: Kentucky
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Oh, then you're good. SCART to BNC is probably much easier to find given the PVM/BVM crowd.
As for the SCART cable, I'd buy from someone who at least specifies what kind of sync is used. I have no clue if the iScan HD requires clean sync or anything, but the fact that the seller doesn't even mention what it is doesn't inspire confidence.
As for the SCART cable, I'd buy from someone who at least specifies what kind of sync is used. I have no clue if the iScan HD requires clean sync or anything, but the fact that the seller doesn't even mention what it is doesn't inspire confidence.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Skips wrote:Unless it is from 2000 on I would not try to remove it. The BVM's from 97 to 99 (and maybe early 2000?) used a much stronger adhesive. I have never had any luck getting the adhesive off the glass without scratching it on those 20F1U's. It was REALLY stuck on there, even after letting a various amounts of solvents soak into it for days at a time.
For this BVM however I removed the side covers then unscrewed the front face plate. Once its off you gently peel up the corners of the film and pull until its off. Take it slow and be careful as you go. Once its off you just remove any left over glue on the glass.
AWESOME! Thanks for the info Skips...I checked my BVM and it was from 2003 so I followed your instructions and removed the film along with the gouge in less than 5 mins and now I have a perfect BVM20F1U! Thanks again!
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- Banned User
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
2 Things:
1. Can the BVM-20F1U do PAL?
2. My BVM-20F1U has a little scratch that's like 2 scanlines long. How do I fix this? Clear nail polish or something?
1. Can the BVM-20F1U do PAL?
2. My BVM-20F1U has a little scratch that's like 2 scanlines long. How do I fix this? Clear nail polish or something?
Xyga wrote:It's really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don't suspect for second that he's actually paid for this.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Dear all,
I want to seek your help for the BKM-21D Composite Card.
How can I connect to AV Signal in a BVMD20F1 Monitor , it has 3 SDI ports (both in&out) and RGB ports (both in&out)
which port should I connect to get AV composite signal ?
If i would like to connect my FC (NES) with the AV composite signal ? how can I connect the cable ? and how can I select manu in BVM monitor ?
Thanks for your help...
waiting for the further reply...
I want to seek your help for the BKM-21D Composite Card.
How can I connect to AV Signal in a BVMD20F1 Monitor , it has 3 SDI ports (both in&out) and RGB ports (both in&out)
which port should I connect to get AV composite signal ?
If i would like to connect my FC (NES) with the AV composite signal ? how can I connect the cable ? and how can I select manu in BVM monitor ?
Thanks for your help...
waiting for the further reply...
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
... You were already given the answers in your original post...
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56091
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56091
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- Banned User
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I have a composite video as sync RGB cable for my Genesis and I have faint jailbars on blue. Will a csync cable fix this?
Xyga wrote:It's really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don't suspect for second that he's actually paid for this.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
it will help but won't fix it completely. Do get rid of the jailbars you need to cut a certain pin on the video chip.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I think its pin 50 on the VDP,,, SEGA 315,, just lift it from the base.... Hence youy will loose composite if you do this, but it is the best jailbar fixatheistgod1999 wrote:I have a composite video as sync RGB cable for my Genesis and I have faint jailbars on blue. Will a csync cable fix this?
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I know composite sucks, but I don't want to remove it due to the limited supply (especially due to mine being a non-TMSS HD Graphics one) of Genesis consoles.Saturngamer81 wrote:I think its pin 50 on the VDP,,, SEGA 315,, just lift it from the base.... Hence youy will loose composite if you do this, but it is the best jailbar fixatheistgod1999 wrote:I have a composite video as sync RGB cable for my Genesis and I have faint jailbars on blue. Will a csync cable fix this?
Xyga wrote:It's really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don't suspect for second that he's actually paid for this.
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bobrocks95
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Personally speaking, on my CRT, going from a composite video for sync cable to a csync cable eliminated jailbars, or at least reduced them to the point where I can't see them. If you cut the composite pin (or I think more properly wire it to ground probably) you'll need a csync cable anyway so give one a try first.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
atheistgod1999 wrote:I know composite sucks, but I don't want to remove it due to the limited supply (especially due to mine being a non-TMSS HD Graphics one) of Genesis consoles.Saturngamer81 wrote:I think its pin 50 on the VDP,,, SEGA 315,, just lift it from the base.... Hence youy will loose composite if you do this, but it is the best jailbar fixatheistgod1999 wrote:I have a composite video as sync RGB cable for my Genesis and I have faint jailbars on blue. Will a csync cable fix this?
You could do What I did, I modded mine with a switch to i can deactivate the composite when using RGB,,, Personally I dont see the big deal with the HD graphics version, i prefer the slightly later ones and change the ceramics on the underside to a smilar low pass filtering as the HD,,,
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stellarola
- Posts: 62
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- Location: Lexington, KY
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Anyone have a spare Panasonic BT-YA702P or JVC IF-C01COMG RGB/Component input card? Please shoot me a PM.
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Would love to have that 14n2u pdf. Would be willing to paypal a few bucks for it, if you (or anyone) would be so kind.angryswede wrote:I have the service manual as a pdf. PM me your email if you need it.ExitPlanetDust wrote: PVM get!
Some mild convergence issues and the image is a bit warm, but the geometry is perfect. I just need to find a way to dial it in. It's a 14n2u.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
there was one recently on ebay going for $150 but the seller has taken it down.stellarola wrote:Anyone have a spare Panasonic BT-YA702P or JVC IF-C01COMG RGB/Component input card? Please shoot me a PM.
Thanks
i contacted the guy but we werent able to come to an agreement.
these input cards are not only hard to find but when you do find them then they can be expensive.
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stellarola
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- Location: Lexington, KY
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I've since found this out. I bought a JVC monitor on eBay with the RGB input card. However, once I received the monitor, someone swapped out the RGB card with an SDI one. So I'm hoping the seller can find it, because I can't find one online at all....tacoguy64 wrote:there was one recently on ebay going for $150 but the seller has taken it down.stellarola wrote:Anyone have a spare Panasonic BT-YA702P or JVC IF-C01COMG RGB/Component input card? Please shoot me a PM.
Thanks
i contacted the guy but we werent able to come to an agreement.
these input cards are not only hard to find but when you do find them then they can be expensive.
I really don't wanna send back a CRT...fuuuuuuuu
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noonan2678
- Posts: 137
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- Location: Boston, MA, USA
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Thoughts on the Sony PVM-20M2MDU?
I have a 2950Q now and interested in the possible sharper image this could provide. Seller asking $300, which I won't pay, but hoping to get it maybe for $200.
Interested about any thoughts about the two against each other.
Also, completely different thought... I also have an XRGB-Mini setup (same consoles as the PVM) going to a Sony 55" LED/LCD (HX800 I beleive). I've been thinking about
trying either a high-res/def CRT or a bulkier LCD to try and improve the backlighting situation as size doesn't matter to me in this case. Well, depth doesn't, but also looking to
downsize this set to a 46 or 50".
Has anyone heard or seen this one: 46" NEC Multisync (P461)? It looks giant, but maybe that equals quality in this case. It has crazy amts of inputs and seeming can be had
pretty cheap. I know it's out there, but just curious. Interested in any 46" recommendations as well.
Thanks for the thoughts!
I have a 2950Q now and interested in the possible sharper image this could provide. Seller asking $300, which I won't pay, but hoping to get it maybe for $200.
Interested about any thoughts about the two against each other.
Also, completely different thought... I also have an XRGB-Mini setup (same consoles as the PVM) going to a Sony 55" LED/LCD (HX800 I beleive). I've been thinking about
trying either a high-res/def CRT or a bulkier LCD to try and improve the backlighting situation as size doesn't matter to me in this case. Well, depth doesn't, but also looking to
downsize this set to a 46 or 50".
Has anyone heard or seen this one: 46" NEC Multisync (P461)? It looks giant, but maybe that equals quality in this case. It has crazy amts of inputs and seeming can be had
pretty cheap. I know it's out there, but just curious. Interested in any 46" recommendations as well.
Thanks for the thoughts!
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
The PVM-20M2MDU is nice but certainly on the soft side. In terms of sharpness you won't gain much compared to your current setup. It does have near-perfect black levels however, far superior to most CRTs out there. I'd say stay with the 2950Q unless you're looking for something smaller.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
Hi, recently i've managed to find near my place a BVM-A24E1WM monitor for a good price. The only thing which makes me wonder is missing analog board with rgb bnc connections on the back of monitor. I was trying to find excactly the one mantioned in manual (BKM-68X) but its really hard... and I was thinking if I can use another one, I mean the same size but different model. Are those boards/adapters universal for BVM's ?? I would appriciete Your answer and sorry for my english !
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Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
The A series BVMs were the last CRT models made and they do not come stock with any analog input cards, nor do they have a built-in analog RGB input like the older series. Also, the older input cards are not compatible. You have to use the new input cards specifically for the A series. They are very hard to find and are very expensive.
Re: Fudoh's ode to old display technology
I've got a 20M2MDU & it's great but a 2950Q is probably my ideal monitor, would love to find one. I'd say even $200 is a very high price. They're both 600 lines so if you're after something sharper maybe look at one of the 800 lines+ models?noonan2678 wrote:Thoughts on the Sony PVM-20M2MDU?
I have a 2950Q now and interested in the possible sharper image this could provide. Seller asking $300, which I won't pay, but hoping to get it maybe for $200.
Interested about any thoughts about the two against each other.