Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Fudoh]

BVMs don't support 480p through SDI. HDFury will be fine though.

[Smashbro29]

Lately I've found myself kind of frustrated that my LG 47LD450 doesn't handle dark scenes well at all. Anytime it's dark I can't see jack but my capture preview on my ASUS 236H by way of X-Capture 1 looks somewhat better so I did some research and it turns out that LG TVs circa 2011 have something called Global Dimming a stupid feature that makes dark scenes darker. How do you shut it off? Relabel your input to PC mode was the only solution and this didn't fix the issue either. When you enable this mode it calls itself RGB so I'm thinking maybe I need to set my devices to RGB full try it with the PS3 and it's such a minute difference, tried it with the xrgb-mini and again can't really see a big difference.

I don't know what to do anymore. I just want to be able to see when scenes are at night.

In this picture is a scene where I can't see a thing on my TV but I can make out the path using the aforementioned capture preview:

Spoiler

So my question is: What do I do?

[Xyga]

No I believe it's somewhere in the advanced picture settings, some kind of dynamic contrast option, it must be turned off.
Though it should be by default in game mode...try resetting everything maybe.

I gave my parents my old 32LD450 and lately while visiting I've noticed its blacks and contrast have changed a lot over the years.
Its retaining its poor IPS contrast performance, which is normal, but now at the same time contrast seems way too high, with obvious black crush.

I bet the aging CCFL backlight output is off now and the set should be entirely re-calibrated for it. Maybe yours too.

[Smashbro29]

No I believe it's somewhere in the advanced picture settings, some kind of dynamic contrast option, it must be turned off.
Though it should be by default in game mode...try resetting everything maybe.

I gave my parents my old 32LD450 and lately while visiting I've noticed its blacks and contrast have changed a lot over the years.
Its retaining its poor IPS contrast performance, which is normal, but now at the same time contrast seems way too high, with obvious black crush.

I bet the aging CCFL backlight output is off now and the set should be entirely re-calibrated for it. Maybe yours too.

Oh cool you know a lot about this TV, did you also win the panel lottery and get an S-IPS?

So I don't need the PC mode? That's a relief. I'm also guessing anything I plug into it should be set to RGB Limit

I took if off the mode, put default game mode and anything dynamic is off. But I know that won't solve the issue.

How do I recalibrate?

[Xyga]

Yes it's an S-IPS, I bet this size only had that anyway, guess it's the bigger ones that sometimes received and MVA instead.

PC isn't a mode but rater an input label on those LG sets, with the dedicated menu you just decide which useage each input has.
It's been a common thing with LG to use PC as default for anything computer/console, but the slight differences between the various labels are beyond me now as it's been years and I never nocticed anything radical anyway.

The display modes are the most important part, if you set 'game' it shouldn't have any bad processing mumbo-jumbo yes, and that's also showing how the picture really is like.
If the colors are off it's good to try and calibrate but that's not an easty job, it takes time.
The isf/pro modes feature a (too) basic calibration program if I recall, it puts you through a short greyscale/color adjustment course, you can use that if you want, write down the values while you're running it and copy them to game mode later.

If you want to go deeper use something like this: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-displ ... ation.html
Burn to a DVD or use the executable from a computer, then go step by step through the patterns manual.
Other super good guide but using a color meter: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322
NOTE: your objective is to find the right balance again while you're in game mode and at the backlighting level you use the most. good luck!

[Smashbro29]

Yes it's an S-IPS, I bet this size only had that anyway, guess it's the bigger ones that sometimes received and MVA instead.

PC isn't a mode but rater an input label on those LG sets, with the dedicated menu you just decide which useage each input has.
It's been a common thing with LG to use PC as default for anything computer/console, but the slight differences between the various labels are beyond me now as it's been years and I never nocticed anything radical anyway.

The display modes are the most important part, if you set 'game' it shouldn't have any bad processing mumbo-jumbo yes, and that's also showing how the picture really is like.
If the colors are off it's good to try and calibrate but that's not an easty job, it takes time.
The isf/pro modes feature a (too) basic calibration program if I recall, it puts you through a short greyscale/color adjustment course, you can use that if you want, write down the values while you're running it and copy them to game mode later.

If you want to go deeper use something like this: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-displ ... ation.html
Burn to a DVD or use the executable from a computer, then go step by step through the patterns manual.
Other super good guide but using a color meter: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322
NOTE: your objective is to find the right balance again while you're in game mode and at the backlighting level you use the most. good luck!

Wouldn't I just use one backlighting level all the time? Why would I change that?

So yes to PC mode? I'm unsure what you're recommending. "Just Scan" shows me the full area so I'm not not sure what PC mode does other than changing the loho on the input select.

Do I set my stuff to RGB full or limited?

I'll give it a go but man what a pain, why can't my aging TV just show me black.

I think it's odd that no one's just found the right setting and posted it online on a per model basis. Is every single TV different?

[Xyga]

- As I saidPC isn't a mode, it's an input label, it might affect how the input signal is treated by the TV. LG have a long tradition of relatively 'clean' PC input labels.
- Just scan is a zoom (overscan) level, a setting part of the picture modes, and should be the default setting yes.
- Normally you should set RGB to full, but as I recall there was a thing in that LG series, on my LD450 the available options are 'limited' and 'expanded', and it happens that limited is the correct setting (it was a long time ago so I'm not 100% sure). You'll easily realize which is good while calibrating anyway.
- 'just show me black' -> I thought the issue was that it's showing you much too much black ?
- Every TV unit is different yes, there are base settings for everyone an every use but most of the time they're useful only as a starting point and it's up to the user to tweak stuff. Even more so if the TV's showing its age.

Check the LD450 threads on both avsforum and avforums for tips, it's a long read but you could learn useful stuff there.

[Smashbro29]

- As I saidPC isn't a mode, it's an input label, it might affect how the input signal is treated by the TV. LG have a long tradition of relatively 'clean' PC input labels.
- Just scan is a zoom (overscan) level, a setting part of the picture modes, and should be the default setting yes.
- Normally you should set RGB to full, but as I recall there was a thing in that LG series, on my LD450 the available options are 'limited' and 'expanded', and it happens that limited is the correct setting (it was a long time ago so I'm not 100% sure). You'll easily realize which is good while calibrating anyway.
- 'just show me black' -> I thought the issue was that it's showing you much too much black ?
- Every TV unit is different yes, there are base settings for everyone an every use but most of the time they're useful only as a starting point and it's up to the user to tweak stuff. Even more so if the TV's showing its age.

Check the LD450 threads on both avsforum and avforums for tips, it's a long read but you could learn useful stuff there.

I should probably stop replying when I'm running on fumes. Some of what I said was poorly worded.

- I'm still unsure what changing the label to PC does other than limit my options.

- Yeah, but things I plug into it give me the option of full or limited. I'd like to know what the TV is in advance because they have to match.

- Right, I mean correct blacks, like I said; fumes.

- So obviously I'm going for the free option, do you think it'd be possible to just get an mp4 and play that on my PS3 for testing?

[Xyga]

- So obviously I'm going for the free option, do you think it'd be possible to just get an mp4 and play that on my PS3 for testing?

Er. Dunno never tried like that, when you click the exe you're prompted to a file decompression sequence and asked where you want to put the folder that will carry the files.
That folder will be approximately 1.6GB of subfolders with various mp4 files, each one showing its own pattern.
So your mp4 player will be required to have proper folder navigation, otherwise you won't be able to use it.

Anyway before that I suggest you try running the little calibration program located in the picture modes menus of your TV.
It should be available from standard and isf/expert modes.
Just set factory default then go through it, and write down the best settings values you find.
Good luck!

[nissling]

- I'm still unsure what changing the label to PC does other than limit my options.

On an LG TV it will activate RGB for the input (otherwise the signal may be converted to YCbCr, causing CUE). For example, an LG 55LM620T with the input labeled video game.


Labeled PC (no other settings has been changed).

[Smashbro29]

- I'm still unsure what changing the label to PC does other than limit my options.

On an LG TV it will activate RGB for the input (otherwise the signal may be converted to YCbCr, causing CUE). For example, an LG 55LM620T with the input labeled video game.


Labeled PC (no other settings has been changed).

That's amazing, so PC mode is better.

[nissling]

For gaming, sure. All modern consoles (Xbox 360 and later) are capable of outputting RGB through HDMI, if HDMI is available of course. Same goes for PCs. Blu-Ray players and such can in many cases output RGB but usually YCbCr is by far the most common standard as the material is stored in that format. In other words just make sure to use PC mode if you're using a PC or a video game console.

[Smashbro29]

For gaming, sure. All modern consoles (Xbox 360 and later) are capable of outputting RGB through HDMI, if HDMI is available of course. Same goes for PCs. Blu-Ray players and such can in many cases output RGB but usually YCbCr is by far the most common standard as the material is stored in that format. In other words just make sure to use PC mode if you're using a PC or a video game console.

I feel bad for taking up so much space with my question but I really appreciate all the replies.

That being said the PC mode cuts a lot of the options out.

Also I think "game" is really just "dynamic anything off" how accurate is that? Is it doing something under the hood that doesn't show on the menu or not?

[Xyga]

Not it shouldn't. Game mode + PC label = the most accurate you'll get on an LG set.
The remaining options are all you should need for adjusting, but the aging backlight makes those too few to help apparently.
(it's too bad that the zoom levels are also greyed-out but all LG are like that afaik)

Alternatively I remember people saying the 'isf/EXPERT' mode doesn't really add more lag than 'game', the difference must be of only a tiny few ms, also depending on what options of picture processing are active.
Try it, use the little LG calibration program/guide, get every other option in the expert mode to be like 'game', and you should find yourself with a highly configurable pseudo-game mode.

[amdiggywhut]

What's the ideal mounting plate to install a Seimitsu LS-58-01 into a (PS4) Hori Real Arcade Pro VLX?

Last night I installed it with the SE that the LS-58 came with but it feels obviously higher than it should. I have an MS plate that came with my LS-56, which I was going to try tonight. Anyone know if that will work?

[amdiggywhut]

Eh, I ended up just installing an LS-56 and it's pretty glorious. I've never been able to decide whether I liked the 56 or the 58 more, so the convenience simply won out here. Thanks anyways, cheers.

[andykara2003]

Hi guys - I have an NEC XV29+ monitor I'm using with GameCube. Will it damage or stress the monitor to switch from 480i and 480p when starting up GC games? I know that some 31khz arcade monitors don't like this & wondered if the NEC might be similarly affected.

Cheers.

[BuckoA51]

I'd like to test for cadence problems/judder/stutter etc when streaming files through Plex, does anyone have a simple judder test file I can use in either mkv or mp4? Preferably one recorded at 24/50 and 60fps?

[Fudoh]

If you got a recording device you can record the scrolling bar from the DVDO Edge. It gets generated at the exact timing you have set in the output options. Quite useful.

[BuckoA51]

I'd rather use someone else's files in case my capture card manages to do a frame-rate conversion or something, plus actually hooking my edge up to the card would be a colossal pain...

Edit - Managed to find some, thought you might be interested to know the results. PS4 seems to play 23.976fps fine on my system, but 24.0fps dead has judder. My old faithful Dune D1 plays everything judder free. This is going from Dune/PS4 at 59.94hz->DVDO Edge (Frame locked)->Sony TV with Motionflow.

[Fudoh]

The Dune plays it all fine (23.976/24/50/59.94/60).

Right now it's all going down the drain. Hardly any current media player can manage 23.976 or 24fps - least of all when asked to play it with a proper cadence lock in 59.94 or 60Hz.

My Dune 303 has a little bug when I play 24fps while the GUI runs 59.94. Then the output doesn't resync and the 24fps get played in 59.94Hz (instead of 60.00Hz), so I play back 24fps with actual 1080p24 output, but 23.976 with 59.94Hz output. I don't run into too many 24fps content though - most studios use 23.976 instead. 25fps/50Hz is trivial of course.

I would be mainly interested to learn if there's any player that manages to play Netflix or Amazon Prime with a perfect 1:1 oder 3:2 cadence.

[BuckoA51]

I would be extremely interested to know that too.

[Ronin]

Hey everyone, I just got a BVM-20F1U and am now ordering scart cables so I can enjoy that RGB goodness. I am new to this and have been using RetroRGB.com a lot as a guide. On the pages that list scart cables for each system, under the SNES and Genesis, he provides links for an upgrade to coaxial cables.

I am a little confused. What is the upgrade to coaxial cables for and should I get it over the regular scart cables?

[FinalBaton]

I'm looking at Extron VGA switches/matrix switches (either "Extron SW6 VGA/Ars Series", "Extron MMX 32 VGA A" or "Extron MVX 44 VGA")

Do these accept and spit out 15kHz through their D-sub 15 ports?
I'm tempted to think so, but the manuals make me doubt. They state "VGA - UXGA(or some higher res)" under resolution in the specs page.
Does accepting VGA automatically means that it accepts lower resolutions? in this case 15kHz?

A manual example. Page 26 under Video input and Video output :
http://media.extron.com/download/files/ ... -Ars_G.pdf




EDIT : same thing for this adapter
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-02902- ... B0002J1JAE

I want to use it for the RGB1 Throughput on my NEC XM37 Plus, but it states 640 X 480 as its lower resolution compatibility

[BuckoA51]

I've tried VGA matrix switches in the past with 15khz and they've all been fine with 240p but struggled with 480i. You will definitely need clean sync too. Maybe go Extron Crosspoint as that definitely works.

[FinalBaton]

I've tried VGA matrix switches in the past with 15khz and they've all been fine with 240p but struggled with 480i. You will definitely need clean sync too. Maybe go Extron Crosspoint as that definitely works.

yeah crosspoint is great, but I have a couple of VGA sources already (pc, DC), wich is why I'm considering VGA matrix switches.
Plus, SyncStrike (vga out) is cheaper than SCART-to-BNC adapters w/ sync cleaner (BNC out).

[bobrocks95]

I'm looking at Extron VGA switches/matrix switches (either "Extron SW6 VGA/Ars Series", "Extron MMX 32 VGA A" or "Extron MVX 44 VGA")

Do these accept and spit out 15kHz through their D-sub 15 ports?
I'm tempted to think so, but the manuals make me doubt. They state "VGA - UXGA(or some higher res)" under resolution in the specs page.
Does accepting VGA automatically means that it accepts lower resolutions? in this case 15kHz?

A manual example. Page 26 under Video input and Video output :
http://media.extron.com/download/files/ ... -Ars_G.pdf




EDIT : same thing for this adapter
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-02902- ... B0002J1JAE

I want to use it for the RGB1 Throughput on my NEC XM37 Plus, but it states 640 X 480 as its lower resolution compatibility

I have an Extron VGA switch (12 inputs, 2 outputs) and assuming the Dreamcast 240p Test Suite actually outputs 240p when you select the option, it works fine.

[BuckoA51]

Have you tried 480i too?

[ZellSF]

So I got this component to HDMI converter.

It works great for my Wii (which I tested it works on), but my PS2 and Xbox has an intolerable amount of horizontal shift. Any workarounds for that or do I just need another converter? Any recommendations?

I might need one anyway, as the one I bought doesn't support PAL and while I can work around that myself, it might not be a good solution.

Edit: Anyone tried this one with a PS2 and/or Xbox?
This one is more expensive, but I think Lenkeng's converters are supposed to be good?

[Fudoh]

I have all three and I'm positive that they are all based on the exact same IC. I haven't noticed any horizontal shift out of the ordinary on any of them.

When you say it doesn't support PAL, what do you mean exactly ? 576i50 or 576p50 ? The problem with all of these is that interlaced isn't properly supported. I don't get a picture with any interlaced signal (50 or 60Hz) on my TV, but I can get a (jittery mess) on a VP.

The only converter on which I found rather good interlaced support so far is the Gefen. Quality for progressive conversion is identical to the cheaper boxes, but the Gefen has an annoying bug in which it adds a ~ 3-4 IRE brightness offset.