[FIXED] SNES Unstable Image - Bad rectifier

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SukkoPera
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:44 am

[FIXED] SNES Unstable Image - Bad rectifier

Post by SukkoPera »

I have just got hold of another PAL SNES console. The console turns on, but I can't manage to get stable video out of it. The console is definitely working, as I can hear the audio playing fine, and from time to time I get to see some video, but it's scrolling and disappears after a few seconds. I am using a known-good PAL RGB cable and other SNES's sync fine on my TV, so it must be an issue with this particular console. Internally nothing looks blatantly wrong. Where should I focus my attention?
Last edited by SukkoPera on Mon Oct 12, 2015 7:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.
SukkoPera
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:44 am

Re: SNES Unstable Image

Post by SukkoPera »

Tried a composite cable and image synced but had running horizontal green lines. Found advice that the problem could be in the power supply, so tried a universal DC one and... Bingo, all problems were gone!

Still, I'd like to replace what is causing the bad behaviour. I have replaced the 2200 uF cap, things improved a bit but not enough. Then I noticed that the DC supply only worked with a specific polarity: since the SNES is supposed to be fed AC (Well, the PAL version of it, at least), any DC supply should work regardless of polarity. I confirmed this with another SNES, so I guess the problem lies in the bridge rectifier. Has anyone ever seen this?

The bridge rectifier in my SNES is a single component marked RC203, this one:

http://www.mouser.it/Search/m_ProductDe ... NvBw%3d%3d

Ordering a single component from Mouser in Italy is all but cheap, and couldn't find a direct replacement on eBay, so could anybody recommend what I should get?
Last edited by SukkoPera on Tue Oct 13, 2015 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SukkoPera
Posts: 27
Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:44 am

Re: SNES Unstable Image - Bad rectifier?

Post by SukkoPera »

Well, no worries. As it turns out, I remembered I'd just bought a new multimeter with diode-testing capabilities. So I was easily able to make sure that one of the diodes in the bridge had failed open. Then I just soldered a spare 4001 I had lying around across the failed legs and everything is now working as it should.

Picture of the repair: https://www.dropbox.com/s/53sm5xic65qjw ... 2.jpg?dl=0

Not pretty, but does its job 8).

Hope this all helps someone else with their troubleshooting!
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