Questions that do not deserve a thread

[fafangus]

You don't have to do a full bypass RGB mod. Instead you can use the vertical bar fix http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/sne ... fix.48413/

I don't have the vertical bar issue - but if it could help I'll try it, so in fact I have to change the capacitor value ?

Which cable are you using?

A rgb csync cable from retrogamingcables.co.uk

[Fudoh]

right, so sorry. Didn't check the video. What RGB32E said. A better cable will solve this.

[fafangus]

An original nintendo sfc cable will do the job?
SHVC-010 ?

[Fudoh]

original Nintendo cables use composite video for sync. They also got problems with leaking caps. If you're not keen to fix those, you might be better off with just a 3rd party cable that uses c-sync instead. I don't really know why your retrogamingcables one gives you problem. Might be poor shielding. Maybe ask them first ?

[fafangus]

Ok lol thank for the tips
I'll ask them to be sure they sell me a csync one ^^

Edit :
Ok, last week i had bought from them another csync cable (for my jap n64 rgb) , and I was sure the problem came from the sfc not from the cable (as it was "new" and csync wired) , so just checked the new one, and it seems that is all good, my sfc display a pure picture (!!) no lines at all ^^

So it seems that my previous cable is not csync wired - does it make a big diff for the n64 (to be csync or not) ?
How could I make it csync capable ?

Anyway thank to you guys, like always you're know your subject

[Guspaz]

How can there be crosstalk from the composite line in a csync RGB cable that doesn't connect the composite pin?

[RGB32E]

How can there be crosstalk from the composite line in a csync RGB cable that doesn't connect the composite pin?

So it seems that my previous cable is not csync wired

tl;dr?

Anyway thank to you guys, like always you're know your subject

NP. Happy to help!

[Ed Oscuro]

Ok, last week i had bought from them another csync cable (for my jap n64 rgb) , and I was sure the problem came from the sfc not from the cable (as it was "new" and csync wired) , so just checked the new one, and it seems that is all good, my sfc display a pure picture (!!) no lines at all ^^

Can you share who you bought the new cable from?

And when was the retro gaming cables one bought?

Might be time to resurrect the old "who to buy your cables from" thread...

[fafangus]

The two cables come from retrogamingcables.co.uk

The older one dates of mid 2014 (june - july if I remember)

I think there was just an error for the first cable (att I was replugging all my setup, so I wasn't in the mood of the pixel perfect, but in the "how could I hook my 14 console to my xrgbs at the same time)

I'll check with them, or if I could use it with my RGB N64 as no loose on quality why not...

Edit :
Does csync improve the picture on a rgb n64 ? (Over sync on video)

[donluca]

Quick question about my Sony BVM 14M4DE monitor (or any M series monitor):

How's the horizontal frequency tolerance?
I've been looking for this in several documents but they only say 15.75Khz
Can it reach lower or higher frequencies?

For example can it reach up to 16.20Khz or 16.50Khz?

[BuckoA51]

Does csync improve the picture on a rgb n64 ? (Over sync on video)

I think only Tim's RGB mod for N64 actually outputs csync anyway, so for that machine you're stuck with composite video for sync.

The issue described in that video is crosstalk from the composite video line when low quality cables are used. Those jokers who made that video have never edited to make the distinction, and have created speculation amongst the uninformed.

Distinction between what? Dot crawl effect and XRGB3 issues? It doesn't just affect low quality cables in my experience, sure if you want to search for some mythical ultra high quality composite video for sync cable go right ahead, or just get a csync cable

[BazookaBen]

Quick question about my Sony BVM 14M4DE monitor (or any M series monitor):

How's the horizontal frequency tolerance?
I've been looking for this in several documents but they only say 15.75Khz
Can it reach lower or higher frequencies?

For example can it reach up to 16.20Khz or 16.50Khz?

There is a little bit of leeway, but the only way you can know for sure is to test it yourself. At some point the picture will start rolling and you'll know you've passed the limit. It's not gonna destroy your monitor or anything.

[donluca]

There is a little bit of leeway, but the only way you can know for sure is to test it yourself. At some point the picture will start rolling and you'll know you've passed the limit. It's not gonna destroy your monitor or anything.

Thanks, I'll do some tests and report back!

[Sixfortyfive]

I want to be able to test input lag (and, if possible, the frequency of dropped inputs) within an actual game, being ran on two different console+display setups. What kind of equipment do I need in order to do this accurately?

Basically, I have something like this in mind for lag testing (preferably to more accuracy than just 1/60th of a second, although that can suffice):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoJzobmdGzU

Specifically, I'd need to test said game with a Gamecube controller, and would thus probably need to hack up a GCN controller. To summarize my current (lack of) tech experience, I've yet to hold a soldering iron myself. I'm willing to learn whatever, though.

[BazookaBen]

I want to be able to test input lag (and, if possible, the frequency of dropped inputs) within an actual game, being ran on two different console+display setups. What kind of equipment do I need in order to do this accurately?

Basically, I have something like this in mind for lag testing (preferably to more accuracy than just 1/60th of a second, although that can suffice):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoJzobmdGzU

Specifically, I'd need to test said game with a Gamecube controller, and would thus probably need to hack up a GCN controller. To summarize my current (lack of) tech experience, I've yet to hold a soldering iron myself. I'm willing to learn whatever, though.

I don't know everything you need but please hack up a MadCatz or other 3rd party controller instead of an official one. The GCN has my favorite controller I'd hate to see one die for a short experiment.

[sixbynine]

Does anyone have an idea what causes color tints and how to fix them? I’ve got blue tints on saturn (rgb-scart) and dreamcast (toro)? SNES displays just fine with accurate colors. All consoles are connected to via component to a bvm.
I could fix this ›in post‹ as we say (via bvm color adjustments) but I’d rather have the colors come out of the box the way they are supposed to. Could it be my cables? :/

[korpse413]

Curious what wattage and % tolerance mean in regards to BNC terminators? Just peaked my interest when scouring Ebay when I noticed a few different ratings. Is the 75 ohm the sweet spot and everything else is for another thing entirely? Never took an Electronics 101 in my life so I don't know the fundamentals of resistors or terminators of that sort. My previous BVM (a BVM 1911) came with Kings KC 89-74 terminators (x4) on some outputs, but for my BVM D20F1U I need a few more. Just interested in what the different ratings mean, if anyone knows.

[beatsgo]

Curious what wattage and % tolerance mean in regards to BNC terminators? Just peaked my interest when scouring Ebay when I noticed a few different ratings. Is the 75 ohm the sweet spot and everything else is for another thing entirely? Never took an Electronics 101 in my life so I don't know the fundamentals of resistors or terminators of that sort. My previous BVM (a BVM 1911) came with Kings KC 89-74 terminators (x4) on some outputs, but for my BVM D20F1U I need a few more. Just interested in what the different ratings mean, if anyone knows.

75 ohms is a standardized impedance for most video/audio applications for broadcasting applications, which means transmissions of video signals are transmitted correctly without any distortion to the quality of the video. Wattage doesn't really mean anything other than how much power consummation you're expecting with the BVM. Current is more important since where ever you live there's only so much current the electrical company can provide you (typically 100-200 amps per household). Tolerance would equate to differential gain (how much lose/gain in brightness of a color signal) and differential phase (how exact a color is [e.g. blue shirt turning into a purple hue]). It means there's a certain amount of deviance a video signal can reach before the signal gets distorted. Makes any sense?

[P1kas]

My 2c;

If you hate lag: either get an XRGB-2, XRGB-3 (both have picture stabilizing settings and personally I don't think they're always wobbly) or wait for Marq's device.

If you can live with undefeatable over-1-frame lag: get a Frame Meister.

To answer your question about how your Iiyama would handle the upscaling; you can run scaling tests yourself using pattern pictures

Lag is unfortunately a key factor, some of the games I'll be playing will require strict timings(Fighting games, speedrun.)

As for the tests:
Would I need to have a copy of the pattern image in each resolution? Any patterns available in various resolutions to test with?
Could I perform such tests with the 240p test suite? I have a Wii/Gamecube available to try 480p through VGA and HDMI, not 720p though.

[Xyga]

You need only the original, then try it at various resolutions and aspect ratios.
You can take the original from prad, or use some of the 240p test suite's patterns indeed.
Anything will do as long as it's got enough grid/lines drawings to let you see if the upscaling distorts those while interpolating, or if an acceptable, consistent appearance is maintained.

[P1kas]

Ok, I'll try testing the 480p from GC, and some custom resolutions with my GPU.

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to interpolation.
What constitutes "good" and "bad" interpolation?
Any specific flaws I should be on the look out for?
Any examples?

[Xyga]

The results will be pretty obvious, the picture is made of various lines and checkered patterns, a good interpolation is when those lines and patterns maintain consistent properties, such as thickness, evenness of the distribution/spacing, if the checkered patterns are still visible, etc: a still 'clear' picture.

Bad scaling/interpolation is when everything turns into a blurry, scrambled mess.

Most prad.de reviews have those interpolations comparatives, have a look a several of them, you'll see what I mean.

[bBiz]

First time poster, I have recently started getting into the realm of retro gaming and all that comes with it. Acquired a crt and recently just got my hands on a sony pvm-8220 for free of craigslist! He even threw in a porta brace carrying case for the monitor.

I got a RCA to BNC adapter as well as a RCA to 9mm jack so that I could output sound on a external speaker. After hooking all of this up to my gamecube I turn it on the sound comes through but the screen rolls down and also shows in black and white. I have adjusted the V-hold as well as switching the INT/EXT sync switch but nothing seems to help.

I don't suspect that this guy gave me a defective item because he seemed very well to do and could have easily just posted the monitor on cl for parts. I also don't think that it could have been damaged when I was bringing it home because it was very secure in the porta brace.

I have tried looking up anything about this but not too many people talk about the 8220 model and I tried everything that I found online, so I'm hoping you guys could help me out or give me a verdict on whether this monitor just has a problem that will require somebody with pvm repair skills.

[Guspaz]

The 8220 is from the 1980s and only supports composite video (one of the lowest quality video formats), so it's not something you'll typically see used for retro gaming. It's three times the age of the newer PVMs from the mid 00's, so I wouldn't expect them to be in all that good condition.

The switches on that monitor are the termination switches, and unless you're connecting something to the output, I believe they should all be in the "on" position (as that would seem to imply termination is on).

Here is the service manual for your monitor:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ax4ydqy4fd38r ... 0.pdf?dl=1

You shouldn't be using external sync with composite video, so try pressing the "sync" button on the front of the monitor (it should be in the "released" or popped out position), which will switch to using the video sync.

[bBiz]

The 8220 is from the 1980s and only supports composite video (one of the lowest quality video formats), so it's not something you'll typically see used for retro gaming. It's three times the age of the newer PVMs from the mid 00's, so I wouldn't expect them to be in all that good condition.

The switches on that monitor are the termination switches, and unless you're connecting something to the output, I believe they should all be in the "on" position (as that would seem to imply termination is on).

Here is the service manual for your monitor:

You shouldn't be using external sync with composite video, so try pressing the "sync" button on the front of the monitor (it should be in the "released" or popped out position), which will switch to using the video sync.

Yea I know the model is older and I am using a composite video cable with it. The guy I got it from said it was in fine working condition. I've also had a look at the manual which is what encouraged me to try adjusting the v hold. I've tried every combination of switches and I learned that the sync should be released but none of that seems to help. I'm determined to find a solution for this, but thanks for your input.

[Sixfortyfive]

I want to buy a video camera primarily for latency testing, so high framerate is important (although I could settle on 60fps if needed). Any recommendations for where I should be looking?

[Guspaz]

You don't need a video camera for testing display lag, just a still camera to compare against a reference CRT. For testing input lag, you need something that goes higher than 60 fps.

[Sixfortyfive]

You don't need a video camera for testing display lag, just a still camera to compare against a reference CRT. For testing input lag, you need something that goes higher than 60 fps.

I'm not testing display lag. I'm testing for a difference in input latency between two different console setups, like this.

I need to be able to record the time that elapses between a button press and when that input is perceived onscreen. I've acquired most of the equipment I need for this. I just need a camera.

60fps might cut it if I take a large enough sample size of video, but faster would be better.

[tacoguy64]

What hdmi to vga adapter would you guys recommend so i can hook up my xrgb frameister to my sony fw 900? Would any cheapo model do?

[Fudoh]

usually yes, a friend is using a super cheap chinese $20 model. Works fine for him. On the higher end scale you'd go for a HDFury.