Questions that do not deserve a thread

[sodo_san]

Out of those I think you'll be most satisfied with the 20L5. It is certainly sharper than the M2 and has wider compatibility (can display higher resolutions than 15KHz). Buy with confidence. I've only seen the N2 once however and don't remember much from it.

how about Sony BVM-20F1U? is it better than all of them? and if so in what way?

[nissling]

I've got a BVM-20F1 myself and love it. It's arguably the choice for perfectionists and one of the best 15KHz CRTs you will ever find. Haven't compared it to the L5 side by side but I think the latter is slightly closer to a consumer CRT in terms of color accuracy and sharpness. The F1 has a more modern look with 15KHz sources imo but if the L5 were my only CRT I would be very satisfied with it as well.

[sodo_san]

I've got a BVM-20F1 myself and love it. It's arguably the choice for perfectionists and one of the best 15KHz CRTs you will ever find. Haven't compared it to the L5 side by side but I think the latter is slightly closer to a consumer CRT in terms of color accuracy and sharpness. The F1 has a more modern look with 15KHz sources imo but if the L5 were my only CRT I would be very satisfied with it as well.

I am thinking of buying BVM-20F1, what do I need to look for in a good BVM-20F1

[nissling]

Make sure the control board is included. Also have a look at the tube to see what the condition is like. An F1 in good condition has a very solid picture, which is obvious once you see it. Number of hours are also of interest but it doesn't necessarily say anything about how good the CRT is.

I've published some screenshots of my F1 some time ago if you'd like to see.
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 7#p1112847
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 9#p1113489
I'd say it's a flawless tube.

[Einzelherz]

I'd have the 20L5, but that's also the one I'm fervently searching for.

[sodo_san]

Make sure the control board is included. Also have a look at the tube to see what the condition is like. An F1 in good condition has a very solid picture, which is obvious once you see it. Number of hours are also of interest but it doesn't necessarily say anything about how good the CRT is.

I've published some screenshots of my F1 some time ago if you'd like to see.
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 7#p1112847
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 9#p1113489
I'd say it's a flawless tube.

what do you mean by tube?

[nissling]

Well, CRT stands for "Cathod Ray Tube" and the tube is where the electrons being spread out and are going through the shadow mask. It's basically the actual display (big black part in the front on the picture below).

[BazookaBen]

what do you mean by tube?

Haha, it's funny how we're going to have to explain this to future generations on how Youtube got its name and logo.

[sodo_san]

Well, CRT stands for "Cathod Ray Tube" and the tube is where the electrons being spread out and are going through the shadow mask. It's basically the actual display (big black part in the front on the picture below).

I am thinking of buying this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-BVM-20F1U- ... 1839189513

what do you think?

[antron]

I thought the information got to the TV through a series of tubes.

I bet sodo knows what a crt is, but just wanted clarification. Some old/high end amps use vacuum tubes. Which has me wondering, are there any monitors for videophiles/hipsters that use vacuum tube amplifiers?

[bobrocks95]

I am thinking of buying this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-BVM-20F1U- ... 1839189513

what do you think?

Looks overpriced and is lacking the control board, though I'm not exactly the best source for BVM info.

[nissling]

I am thinking of buying this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-BVM-20F1U- ... 1839189513

what do you think?

Too expensive imo, especially considering the remote missing. However I'd say looks to be in nice shape except for lacking dust protection for one of the external board slots so that's at least something...

EDIT: 106K hours...

[sodo_san]

I am thinking of buying this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SONY-BVM-20F1U- ... 1839189513

what do you think?

Too expensive imo, especially considering the remote missing. However I'd say looks to be in nice shape except for lacking dust protection for one of the external board slots so that's at least something...

EDIT: 106K hours...

how about this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-20-PVM-20L ... 4aef1c4e09

[LEGENOARYNINLIA]

I have a PAL SNES that's been modded with what I assume is a SuperCIC chip. I can toggle between auto/50hz/60hz with the reset button. Today I tried hooking it up to my Cinemateq Picture Optimizer Plus II with an RGB SCART cable, but I get no picture. The RGB SCART cable I have came with an RGB modded NTSC-J N64, so that might have something to do with that, but I'm not sure. I then tried a third party S-video cable, and I get a picture. It looks like this:



By using the same S-video cable directly on the same screen, it's fine:



So, have I overlooked some settings on the Cinemateq or is the SNES to blame?

[LEGENOARYNINLIA]

Anyone? I tested the RGB SCART cable that gave me no picture with the PAL SNES again with the NTSC-J N64. Works fine. So what could be wrong with the SNES-cable-Cinemateq combo?

[Fudoh]

It doesn't say much that the cable's working on your modded N64. There are various RGB cable configurations across the Nintendo Systems and your N64 might be configured to run with NTSC RGB cables instead of PAL ones (NTSC ones use caps in the RGB lines while PAL ones use resistors).

The color problems with the s-video cable might be related to the SuperCIC mod. In general you cannot expect a working color signal from a 60Hz modded PAL system using composite or s-video unless the target explicitely supports PAL60 signals.

[RGB]

It could be that the cable is using Composite Sync (pin#3 in the NTSC console's AV out), but the European SNES has +12V instead of Composite Sync on pin#3.

edit: Fudoh, good point on the caps/resistor deal in the cables, this is more likely.

[LEGENOARYNINLIA]

Thanks for the replies guys. I appreciate it.

The culprit for the RGB SCART case was a iffy AV multi-out connector in the SNES, and I trust fudoh's explanation on the S-video problem.

Everything's working now and I finally got a decent picture from my POP2.

[Xan]

I have this one 1993 Sony set without service menu and this is the kind of image it produces:

http://i.imgur.com/mIY71MR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/k3BBtER.jpg

The tilt seems yoke related, and the positioning can probably be fixed easily enough using the pots, but the "curling" on the left side makes me wonder if some of the caps might need replacement. Any thoughts on that? At least if would be a lot easier than on a PVM since there aren't any surface mount caps, and a lot less caps in general in this thing.

[sixbynine]

Are there actually VGA to BNC cables that combine H+V? So basically VGA -> 4BNC?
And if so, what do I have to search for?

[beatsgo]

Are there actually VGA to BNC cables that combine H+V? So basically VGA -> 4BNC?
And if so, what do I have to search for?

No,

H/V Sync needs to be processed into CSync which means you can't combine them into one signal with a simple feed.

[sixbynine]

Are there actually VGA to BNC cables that combine H+V? So basically VGA -> 4BNC?
And if so, what do I have to search for?

No,

H/V Sync needs to be processed into CSync which means you can't combine them into one signal with a simple feed.

I’ve read that H/V can be combined with a simple t-adaptor, but I’ve also read that it’s not advisable. Unsure where the truth lies.

[Laughingman.s9]

Do the component to scart adapters that come packed in with the Xselect d4 work both ways? Like component to scart as well as scart to component?

I'm almost positive the answer is no but doesn't hurt to ask

[BazookaBen]

Are there actually VGA to BNC cables that combine H+V? So basically VGA -> 4BNC?
And if so, what do I have to search for?

No,

H/V Sync needs to be processed into CSync which means you can't combine them into one signal with a simple feed.

I’ve read that H/V can be combined with a simple t-adaptor, but I’ve also read that it’s not advisable. Unsure where the truth lies.

I've done it many times and never experienced a problem.

[Fudoh]

Do the component to scart adapters that come packed in with the Xselect d4 work both ways?

yes for component video itself, but no for audio. Scart uses dedicated pins for video/sync and audio in both directions, but RGB (or YUV in your case) uses the same pins for both directions.

[Laughingman.s9]

Do the component to scart adapters that come packed in with the Xselect d4 work both ways?

yes for component video itself, but no for audio. Scart uses dedicated pins for video/sync and audio in both directions, but RGB (or YUV in your case) uses the same pins for both directions.

Could I use this for example to take the scart from a dreamcast toro VGA box and using the adapter connect the output into a component switchbox without transcoding?

My tv is a Sony w800b if that matters.

[Fudoh]

c'mon - of course not. You can only use this on the rare occasion that a scart port does output a YUV signal (some DVD players can do that).

[Laughingman.s9]

c'mon - of course not. You can only use this on the rare occasion that a scart port does output a YUV signal (some DVD players can do that).

Ahhh

[sixbynine]

Does anyone know about the Hanzo / Toro blueish tint in bright white colors? I’ve tested both and have the same issue. Since I’ve tried both SCART and 15-Pin VGA cables the issue could stem from either the Dreamcast or it’s a Hanzo/Toro issue.

[BazookaBen]

Don't you guys hate when this happens?

https://youtu.be/rqchkbzgMlc?t=2m45s

Damn scart leads