I've had this issue on and off with my PVM for awhile now. Sometimes it just goes away and then mysteriously comes back again. It doesn't seem to have any correlation with the set warming up at all nor what system I'm using on it. It's only capable of composite and s-video, not RGB. I've got it ripped apart and have reflowed all the solder connections and added some fresh solder to them. I'm waiting on a complete set of capacitors for it. I want to test it now but it was such a pain to disassemble I'll wait until I recap it.
Does anyone know what would cause this? Will a recap and reflow fix the issue or is it just at the end of its life span? Thanks for the help.
Picture isn't my monitor but literally the exact same issue. The distortion is still and doesn't move at all.
MidnightAbyss wrote:I've had this issue on and off with my PVM for awhile now. Sometimes it just goes away and then mysteriously comes back again. It doesn't seem to have any correlation with the set warming up at all nor what system I'm using on it. It's only capable of composite and s-video, not RGB. I've got it ripped apart and have reflowed all the solder connections and added some fresh solder to them. I'm waiting on a complete set of capacitors for it. I want to test it now but it was such a pain to disassemble I'll wait until I recap it.
Does anyone know what would cause this? Will a recap and reflow fix the issue or is it just at the end of its life span? Thanks for the help.
Picture isn't my monitor but literally the exact same issue. The distortion is still and doesn't move at all.
I have two Super Famicoms - one works fine but the other has distortion along the top exactly like this. Doesn't happen if I plug the Famicom into my HDTV. Does this happen with all your consoles/sources?
hosser wrote:I have two Super Famicoms - one works fine but the other has distortion along the top exactly like this. Doesn't happen if I plug the Famicom into my HDTV. Does this happen with all your consoles/sources?
It definitely happens with my N64, NES, and SNES. All of the consoles work fine when hooked up to my HDTVs as well. I't been awhile since I've hooked up a non-Nintendo source to it but I'm sure my original Xbox behaved the same way. Thanks for the reply.
I had the same problem with a Sony PVM 2530 years ago. It wasn't even nearly this bad. It just curled near the upper right corner. It was described to me by a television technician as a warped aperture grille, and unfixable. It didn't just go away and come back some times. It was always there. Because it was only in the corner, and not even close to being this pronounced, I just lived with it until I got a tube in better condition. Assuming it's the same origin as mine, if I were in your shoes I'd do the same. Good luck.
I'd think that were the case, if it weren't for this bit:
The distortion is still and doesn't move at all.
But then he also describes it as coming and going. So, it would seem it would have to... "move" somehow, to get to that point, but the lines on my tube were well fixed in the curvature that they had in that corner. Nothing ever changed it, not even degaussing manually.
It's a toss up then I guess? Would be a real shame if it's really that damaged, but a shipping mishap easily could have done it. I'd maybe post in the large thread of Fudoh's if nobody else has chimed in for a while OP.
I really appreciate the help. It's a great looking monitor and it'd be a shameto lose it. I don't know of a VHS option anywhere on this set. It was an old security monitor. I got the cap kit today and I am about to start working on it! I will of course report back with results and pictures of it after I get it back together.
Zets13 wrote:Can you adjust horizontal hold/H.Hold? If so, try adjusting that.
There's no setting in the service menu and there's definitely no pot for it.
Sorry for not updating last night. After my desoldering iron died in the middle of everything it took a lot longer. I think it may actually be fixed. We'll see in a week or so though because as I said before the problem was intermittent. I've had the set running for probably about six or eight hours total after doing everything and no sign of any problems yet. One thing I noticed is that the set is a lot brighter now. I had the brightness jacked up to the max before and on my SNES I had to turn it all the way down now. Colors also seem to be little bit better.
If this thing is actually fixed I'm going to feel pretty damn good about myself. This was the largest scale soldering task I've taken on. Not the hardest but the biggest. I usually stick to fixing old game systems.
Damn Tim, you know there are quite a few Americans out there who still lives in tents due to this shitty economy, and you're dropping loads on a single game which only last 20 min. Do you think it's fair? How much did you spend this time?
donluca wrote:Midnight did you follow a guide to disassemble the PVM and recap it?
Nope. This one wasn't very complicated but is was annoying. Specifically, the back plate with the inputs on it. The big metal plate acts as a huge heatsink and makes desoldering the board from it a chore. I just wrote down all the caps and bought them. Nifty thing about these boards though is that parts are marked with a code on both sides and very clearly indicated.
What PVM model is this? Cool to hear you were able to fix it yourself. Did you stick to high quality caps, and how much did you wind up paying for them?
Xan wrote:What PVM model is this? Cool to hear you were able to fix it yourself. Did you stick to high quality caps, and how much did you wind up paying for them?
PVM-20N1U
It cost me $25 total to recap the whole board. The two biggest caps make up over half of that. I could have cut cost here and there but I bought the more expensive ones. More expensive doesn't always mean higher quality but we'll see. They are higher speced than the stock ones. Exact same uF&Voltage but they're rated for longer life spans at higher temps.
Trying to get pictures of it but I can't. I'm going to have to wait until later when I can get the better camera out.
donluca wrote:What did you use to discharge the crt tube and the flyback transformer?
This set has bleeder resistors but for safety I used the screwdriver, alligator clips, wire, and thick rubber gloves method to make sure. Youtube has plenty of videos showing how to do it. I then went around the board and checked the large caps to make sure the bleeder resistors did their job and that all of the caps were discharged. They were, thankfully, so no issues there.
In one PVM I've spotted these two weird components, do you by chance know what they could be? They look a bit like busted caps at first glance but doubt that's what they are, they look different and don't have the typical markings on them...
Xan wrote:In one PVM I've spotted these two weird components, do you by chance know what they could be? They look a bit like busted caps at first glance but doubt that's what they are, they look different and don't have the typical markings on them...
My board has those too and they're called inductors. I think they have a relatively low chance of failing so there's usually no need to mess with them.
This is only somewhat relevant but I figured I'd post about it on the off chance that it might help someone. I've long known about a short in this sets neck tube. Basically, every once in awhile the green gun would overpower all the other colors and give the set an overall green color with what looks like a sort of color smearing effect. A quick hit on the side always fixed it. While I had it apart earlier I went and powered it up. I heard about a trick from a garage TV tech. To fix shorts in tubes he'd power the set on and give the tube few good taps. This would always manifest the problem and he'd give it a few more taps in different directions until it completely went away and would not come back at all. I went ahead and tried this on my set and it completely got rid of the short. No matter what I do I can't get it to come back now. No idea how safe this is for your set so I'd only suggest trying if you have nothing to lose.
MidnightAbyss wrote:This set has bleeder resistors but for safety I used the screwdriver, alligator clips, wire, and thick rubber gloves method to make sure. Youtube has plenty of videos showing how to do it. I then went around the board and checked the large caps to make sure the bleeder resistors did their job and that all of the caps were discharged. They were, thankfully, so no issues there.
That's a good practice. These CRTs are not toys, there is enough charge in the flyback transformer to kill you.
Everyone take notes. This is how to properly handle a CRT monitor.
