RGB to component transcoder

[mikehaggar]

Hey everybody,

So I started a thread a few months back to help in order to help me find a good RGB to component transcoder. Some of you recommended the CSY-2100 clone on amazon....I bought it and have been trying it for a while...and I'm not satisfied. The colors just aren't what I want them to be. My S-video reference still looks better (and that's with hours spent tweaking the pots inside), I just can't get it to look bright and vibrant enough. Yes the colors are more solid , but they aren't as bright and varied (if that makes sense), so the colors end up looking more samey as compared to s-video.

Just so you guys are aware, I'm using this setup to run straight RGB signals from retro consoles (NES, SNES, PC-ENGINE, GENESIS) on my SD CRT.

Can you guys help me find a better product? I'm aware of the different brands (Audio Authority, Kramer, Crescendo), so it would be good to get a pros/cons list if possible (some are finicky with signal types, etc.).

I'm not as concerned with money as I am with quality at this point.

Thanks in advance for all your help guys!

[RGB32E]

Yeah, when I had an original CSY-2100 I found that stock S-Video from my 1CHIP-01 was cleaner than the component signal. However, my Kramer FC-14 works really well for systems that cannot easily utilize Tim's component add-on for the NESRGB.

Here's what I'd recommend:
NES: NESRGB + NESRGB-Component
SNES: 1CHIP-0x or SNES mini + NESRGB-Component
Genesis: VA3 or VA4 console with Sony CXA-1645M + NESRGB-Component; Note: CXA-1645M provides proper Y output
PC-Engine: Trickier - The Hu6260 outputs luma (Y), but I haven't seen any circuits to properly buffer this signal. The RGB lines need to be buffered as well, and Tim's AV-DRIVER works really well to get the right levels, but it's outputs aren't proper for the NESRGB-Component add-on according to Tim. Hence, buffer with AV-DRIVER + RGB encoder (1645/2075) + NESRGB-Component.

Alternatively, use the AV-DRIVER to buffer RGBS, then feed to a Kramer FC-14.

I have a FC-14, but do not have one of the AA units, so I can't really comment on that. Enjoy!

[BazookaBen]

I have the Audio Authority 9A60, works beautifully at 240p, 480i, 480p and up.

One thing I haven't tested is composite video as sync since I have raw sync coming from all my consoles. Easy enough to install a sync stripper in the event it doesn't work.

[mikehaggar]

Yeah, when I had an original CSY-2100 I found that stock S-Video from my 1CHIP-01 was cleaner than the component signal. However, my Kramer FC-14 works really well for systems that cannot easily utilize Tim's component add-on for the NESRGB.

Here's what I'd recommend:
NES: NESRGB + NESRGB-Component
SNES: 1CHIP-0x or SNES mini + NESRGB-Component
Genesis: VA3 or VA4 console with Sony CXA-1645M + NESRGB-Component; Note: CXA-1645M provides proper Y output
PC-Engine: Trickier - The Hu6260 outputs luma (Y), but I haven't seen any circuits to properly buffer this signal. The RGB lines need to be buffered as well, and Tim's AV-DRIVER works really well to get the right levels, but it's outputs aren't proper for the NESRGB-Component add-on according to Tim. Hence, buffer with AV-DRIVER + RGB encoder (1645/2075) + NESRGB-Component.

Alternatively, use the AV-DRIVER to buffer RGBS, then feed to a Kramer FC-14.

I have a FC-14, but do not have one of the AA units, so I can't really comment on that. Enjoy!

It's funny how much you swear by Tim's board, because I emailed him a few days back about using his boards with other consoles and he told me that he only recommends using it with nesrgb as that's what it's designed for! The zelda pics you posted look really nice coming out of Tim's board. Do you know anybody that can mod my consoles to use Tim's boards? I'm not able to do these sorts of things myself unfortunately...did you do the mods on your consoles yourself?

[RGB32E]

I'm guessing he doesn't want people buying the N-C for non-NESRGB usage, as it would create a support nightmare!

[alamone]

The device I use is called the "Box1020" and it has excellent quality, plus gamma control and VGA passthru.
I tried the cheapie solutions and also was not satisfied with the quality. I'm only using it with 480P though, not sure
if it works with 240P but since it is a pure transcoder I figure it should work.
Unfortunately this device appears to be discontinued so you might have to find it used, or a comparable device.

[bobrocks95]

I use a Keene Aptus1 that I really like. There's an album here if you want to see it (full of horrible cell phone pics of course, but gives a good idea on colors): http://imgur.com/a/812kL

It works with csync and composite video as sync and it includes audio which is a plus over the CSY and its clones.

Plenty of caveats though to consider:
1) The audio is a 3.5mm jack, so you probably need an aux to rca cord to go straight to your TV
2) The SCART end is male, so you'd need a female-to-female adapter to plug cords in
3) The plug is UK styled, I got a passive adapter to plug it in- it's already multi-voltage so you don't need a step-down converter or anything. The plug is swappable, so it's possible they made it with a US plug at one point.

It's a fair amount of stuff and getting it really depends on the price you can find everything at. Altogether it cost me around $70 when I got mine and all the necessary accessories, which seemed fair to me.

[Josh128]

Hey everybody,

So I started a thread a few months back to help in order to help me find a good RGB to component transcoder. Some of you recommended the CSY-2100 clone on amazon....I bought it and have been trying it for a while...and I'm not satisfied. The colors just aren't what I want them to be. My S-video reference still looks better (and that's with hours spent tweaking the pots inside), I just can't get it to look bright and vibrant enough. Yes the colors are more solid , but they aren't as bright and varied (if that makes sense), so the colors end up looking more samey as compared to s-video.

Just so you guys are aware, I'm using this setup to run straight RGB signals from retro consoles (NES, SNES, PC-ENGINE, GENESIS) on my SD CRT.

Can you guys help me find a better product? I'm aware of the different brands (Audio Authority, Kramer, Crescendo), so it would be good to get a pros/cons list if possible (some are finicky with signal types, etc.).

I'm not as concerned with money as I am with quality at this point.

Thanks in advance for all your help guys!

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53888

Theres definitely something going on with your setup from the SMB 3 pictures you posted in the above thread. Your clone may just be defective. The yellowish green tint can also be indicative of bad SCART connections. I had similar issues when using a SCART audio breakout box.

I have 2 clones and an Audio Authority 9A60-- if you dont like the clones you may want to steer clear of the 9A60, as I have compared 240p output of DC SF3: Second Impact from each and the colors/clarity on my 51" plasma are exactly the same, I cannot see a difference between them.

That said, there could be an issue with your individual unit, because RGBs/Component through mine definitely offers richer/fuller looking color than S-video for both my original launch model SNES and my modded SNES Mini and my NESRGB on my Trinitron Wega. It really doesnt make any sense that S-Video would look better than RGB through the clone unless there is a defect with it or some other problem in your equipment chain, such as your SCART cable or possibly even your component inputs on your TV.


In any case, or any route you go, you may end up disappointed--unless your unit really is defective. Ive seen comparison photos from others here pitting properly working clones against more expensive units and the difference is not easy to see-- nothing anywhere close to the pictures you posted of SMB 3. Just keep that in mind. Ill try to find those comparison shots/direct you to them.

[mikehaggar]

Hey everybody,

So I started a thread a few months back to help in order to help me find a good RGB to component transcoder. Some of you recommended the CSY-2100 clone on amazon....I bought it and have been trying it for a while...and I'm not satisfied. The colors just aren't what I want them to be. My S-video reference still looks better (and that's with hours spent tweaking the pots inside), I just can't get it to look bright and vibrant enough. Yes the colors are more solid , but they aren't as bright and varied (if that makes sense), so the colors end up looking more samey as compared to s-video.

Just so you guys are aware, I'm using this setup to run straight RGB signals from retro consoles (NES, SNES, PC-ENGINE, GENESIS) on my SD CRT.

Can you guys help me find a better product? I'm aware of the different brands (Audio Authority, Kramer, Crescendo), so it would be good to get a pros/cons list if possible (some are finicky with signal types, etc.).

I'm not as concerned with money as I am with quality at this point.

Thanks in advance for all your help guys!

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53888

Theres definitely something going on with your setup from the SMB 3 pictures you posted in the above thread. Your clone may just be defective. The yellowish green tint can also be indicative of bad SCART connections. I had similar issues when using a SCART audio breakout box.

I have 2 clones and an Audio Authority 9A60-- if you dont like the clones you may want to steer clear of the 9A60, as I have compared 240p output of DC SF3: Second Impact from each and the colors/clarity on my 51" plasma are exactly the same, I cannot see a difference between them.

That said, there could be an issue with your individual unit, because RGBs/Component through mine definitely offers richer/fuller looking color than S-video for both my original launch model SNES and my modded SNES Mini and my NESRGB on my Trinitron Wega. It really doesnt make any sense that S-Video would look better than RGB through the clone unless there is a defect with it or some other problem in your equipment chain, such as your SCART cable or possibly even your component inputs on your TV.


In any case, or any route you go, you may end up disappointed--unless your unit really is defective. Ive seen comparison photos from others here pitting properly working clones against more expensive units and the difference is not easy to see-- nothing anywhere close to the pictures you posted of SMB 3. Just keep that in mind. Ill try to find those comparison shots/direct you to them.

Hey josh,

The smb3 pics were posted before I knew you could tweak the pots inside. Once I did that, I was able to get it to look decent, but just not bright enough to my liking (S-video was brighter). THe other thread complaining about Goonies 2 was due to a bad connection! So I honestly don't think I have a defective unit. I just don't think they adjust brightness correctly. I think this is why the more commercial units (like TC1600, etc.) have a gamma control included.

Unfortunately, all of those are not produced anymore....I may go the route of using Tim's board, this just requires a lot of modding work, I need to find somebody that has done this mod for many systems before. Hard to find when it's not a super standard modding method...or I may go the transcoder route. It's just not a super easy problem to solve....

[alamone]

The gamma control is indeed handy to have and it's usually not on the cheaper transcoders.
Sometimes a straight transcoding doesn't get the gamma quite right and you lose a lot of shadow detail.
I don't know if that's something you can fix on the CRT side since usually you can only adjust brightness
across the board rather than the gamma curves.