Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Xan]

Can some suggest a decent step down for using a Japanese saturn in the uk? All the ones I've seen either say something like "not for continuous use", or have reviews saying the get very hot and smell of burning electronics.

Or is there a better way of powering it here? Short of swapping out the internal psu board that is.



-edit- is something like this fine? the saturn says it's only 12w. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000 ... 1_1&sr=8-1

Maybe this: http://www.airlinktransformers.com/japa ... UK-JA0050/

It's more expensive, but I probably wouldn't want to skimp on something like this.

[BazookaBen]

I have recently purchased a Ps2 D-sub 15pin cable

I'm assuming I will need to purchase a vga to 4 BNC to acquire both 15khz RGBS and 31khz RGSB from the cable?

At 15hz you can only get sync from composite video, so I'm not even sure if that's wired up in the VGA cable, and if it is I'm not sure what pin on the HD15 connector they would put it on. So for it to work with a 4-BNC adapter, it would have to be on the H-sync pin, and if you had a 5-BNC adapter it would have to be on either H or V-sync.

I've always used a component cable for both 15hz and 31hz. If I'm going to use it on my PC monitor I have it set to RGB, on my 15hz PVM I'll set it to YPbPr.

[Immryr]

Can some suggest a decent step down for using a Japanese saturn in the uk? All the ones I've seen either say something like "not for continuous use", or have reviews saying the get very hot and smell of burning electronics.

Or is there a better way of powering it here? Short of swapping out the internal psu board that is.



-edit- is something like this fine? the saturn says it's only 12w. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000 ... 1_1&sr=8-1

Maybe this: http://www.airlinktransformers.com/japa ... UK-JA0050/

It's more expensive, but I probably wouldn't want to skimp on something like this.

thanks for that. yeah it's definitely worth getting something you know isn't going to blow your system up!

[Smashbro29]

Has there been any real testing with this: http://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-GameCube ... 500&sr=1-1

vs the genuine adapter?

In both modes?

[Einzelherz]

Using GS Mode Selector on my PS2 is there anyway to get it to output 480p but at 4:3 ratios? I seem to only be able to get it on HD ratios. I'd like to have forced 480p games be able to be played on my L5, if possible.

[BazookaBen]

Using GS Mode Selector on my PS2 is there anyway to get it to output 480p but at 4:3 ratios? I seem to only be able to get it on HD ratios. I'd like to have forced 480p games be able to be played on my L5, if possible.

480p is always 4:3 on PS2 I think. I force 480p via GS Mode selector on stuff like Gradius 5 and it looks great on my 4:3 PC monitor. What happens when you force 480p on your L5?

[bobrocks95]

Currently GSM has a nasty issue where the image is horizontally squished and is expected to be stretched by a widescreen TV into a 4:3 aspect ratio, at least in my usage of it. I've been trying for years to find a way to get proper widescreen and GSM at the same time (while using original discs), but to no avail.

[BazookaBen]

Currently GSM has a nasty issue where the image is horizontally squished

That's only with some games that have a reduced horizontal resolution, like Okami and Odin Sphere. Gradius V and the two Contra games display in a proper 4:3.

[kamiboy]

Say I have a few giant heavy packages, like 4 floor standing speakers, that I want to ship within Europe. From DK to UK. What is the cheapest way to go about it?

Regular post won't do.

[Einzelherz]

Using GS Mode Selector on my PS2 is there anyway to get it to output 480p but at 4:3 ratios? I seem to only be able to get it on HD ratios. I'd like to have forced 480p games be able to be played on my L5, if possible.

480p is always 4:3 on PS2 I think. I force 480p via GS Mode selector on stuff like Gradius 5 and it looks great on my 4:3 PC monitor. What happens when you force 480p on your L5?

It's crushed like if it were being sent to a 16:9 display. This made sense to me because when I set it to HDTV 480 on my HD Plasma, it looks like it scales at a perfect 2x ratio so that the pixels aren't stretched. I know that I could just adjust the overscan, but I've already got both of those set: nintendo stuff / other stuff.

I think the only game I was trying with it was We heart Katamari.

[Filenotfound]

EDIT: fixed my problem, my BNC to VGA blue cable was defective.

PC VGA -> Super Emotia -> BNC to VGA -> DB25 (w/ sync combiner) SoG switch ON Sony PVM 2530 = green tint, EDIT: FIXED!
PC VGA -> Super Emotia -> composite Sony PVM 2530 = OK
PC VGA 320x240 -> DB25 (w/ sync combiner) Sony PVM 2530 = OK

[Smashbro29]

I keep hearing that the SCPH-1001 is the best model American PS1.

I read some mixed reports about FMV skipping, is it really an issue?

[BazookaBen]

I keep hearing that the SCPH-1001 is the best model American PS1.

I read some mixed reports about FMV skipping, is it really an issue?

It would be hard to answer that definitively now that the 1001 is 20 years old. Every laser assembly is going to have different amounts of wear.

[eightbitminiboss]

I keep hearing that the SCPH-1001 is the best model American PS1.

I read some mixed reports about FMV skipping, is it really an issue?

Yes. The issue stems from the plastic parts of the CD assembly being near the power supply and no venting nearby. Over time the heat affects the plastic and would get warped. That's where the skipping comes from. Subsequent models moved the assembly to the other side to avoid the issue altogether.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PlayStatio ... e_problems

I personally don't believe the SCPH-1001 to be the best model because of that.

[speedlolita]

Hmm, that would only be the AAM wouldn't it? If you get a BAM laser from a PSone there should be no issues with heat. My main PlayStation is a SCPH-1000 (first revision without region locks, the only Japanese PlayStation revision without them). I've performed a laser adjustment (though I got an ACM out of a late SCPH-1002), replaced the main capacitor in the power supply for a new one (this greatly reduced the heat output from that area) and installed a Mayumi V2.1.

Once the laser is calibrated properly there won't be FMV skipping issues, these will also be eradicated by using a BAM laser from a PSone as mentioned previously.

Otherwise I'd suggest just going after a SCPH-5001/5501.

[Xan]

The 100x is said to be the best simply because of its audio DAC, although discrete DACs were used right until the 700x. The 5xxx are indeed the best compromise in regards to sound and laser assembly, and the drive should sound a bit less harsh than later units because of that vibration damper under it. As far as sound quality goes I have trouble telling my 7502 and 5xx2 consoles apart for gaming though.

[Smashbro29]

I'm gonna be jumping on PSISO as soon as possible so I really just want the best video/audio quality.

I think as far as disc based systems go we're finally seeing mods that allow USB loading so how the disc drive performs is largely irrelevant.

[eightbitminiboss]

I'm gonna be jumping on PSISO as soon as possible so I really just want the best video/audio quality.

I think as far as disc based systems go we're finally seeing mods that allow USB loading so how the disc drive performs is largely irrelevant.

Then you're set with a SCPH-500x or older since they still has the parallel port I/O. I'm waiting for that too

[Smashbro29]

Then you're set with a SCPH-500x or older since they still has the parallel port I/O. I'm waiting for that too

I'm figuring I can do something crazy, get a 1001, do the mod to get csync on the PS1 and then get a custom scart cable that can plug into the audio ports on the PS1 for the best possible picture and sound a PS1 can offer.

Unrelated but what do sync strippers really do? I'm hearing they're problematic and through some weird chain of events I can only use my Genesis model 1 if there's a 32x on it. Otherwise I don't get picture, only sound. I used this cable: http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega ... sound.html and my scart to mini adapter is from retro_console_accessories and the genesis cable manufacturer is guessing that has a sync stripper inside, would removing it from that cable ruin anything else?

[Xan]

I'm planning to do the expansion audio mod on my NES, the wattage and voltage ratings aren't important as long as it's a 47k Ohm resistor, right? And why do some people claim to use two resistors, is that better?

[BazookaBen]

I used two resistors in series because I couldn't find the correct resistor nearby. I don't think using one or two matters, you just want the resistance that gives you the right volume output.

[Xan]

Well, apparently 47k is better for the Everdrive and 94k for real carts: http://krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=326.90

Gonna stick with the former then since that's what I'm using.

[Sixfortyfive]

Anyone care to shed some light on this?

I can't discern whether the Dreamcast is actually capable of outputting a 256p 120fps signal, or if my equipment is fucking with me.

[speedlolita]

Then you're set with a SCPH-500x or older since they still has the parallel port I/O. I'm waiting for that too

I'm figuring I can do something crazy, get a 1001, do the mod to get csync on the PS1 and then get a custom scart cable that can plug into the audio ports on the PS1 for the best possible picture and sound a PS1 can offer.

Unrelated but what do sync strippers really do? I'm hearing they're problematic and through some weird chain of events I can only use my Genesis model 1 if there's a 32x on it. Otherwise I don't get picture, only sound. I used this cable: http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega ... sound.html and my scart to mini adapter is from retro_console_accessories and the genesis cable manufacturer is guessing that has a sync stripper inside, would removing it from that cable ruin anything else?

There's no point doing that unless you do extensive modification to the hardware to bypass the internal amplifier (or something).

http://dogbreath.de/PS1/output/output.html

[Smashbro29]

There's no point doing that unless you do extensive modification to the hardware to bypass the internal amplifier (or something).

http://dogbreath.de/PS1/output/output.html

Explain.

[Xan]

Well, apparently 47k is better for the Everdrive and 94k for real carts: http://krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=326.90

Gonna stick with the former then since that's what I'm using.

Just did the mod, is it normal that I now hear two pops on every startup now and also sometimes when the FDS channel engages/disengages?

Otherwise the volume seems pretty spot on.

[bobrocks95]

Anyone care to shed some light on this?

I can't discern whether the Dreamcast is actually capable of outputting a 256p 120fps signal, or if my equipment is fucking with me.

Not positive on your hardware, but I do know that boot disc is super-weird and acts strangely on the displays I've plugged it into.

[BazookaBen]

Just did the mod, is it normal that I now hear two pops on every startup now and also sometimes when the FDS channel engages/disengages?

I don't own an Everdrive, but my guess is that is just your Everdrive's extra sound channel turning on. I don't get anything like that on my JP Castlevania 3.

[Smashbro29]

I don't own an Everdrive,

I would change that asap, those are a godsend.

[Solvalou]

in terms of game performance, is retroarch and emulation in general on the ps3 worth the trouble?

tia.