Mayflash Arcade Fighting Stick V2 aka CHINABUSA

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quash
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Mayflash Arcade Fighting Stick V2 aka CHINABUSA

Post by quash »

Forget what you know about Mayflash, this thing is the real deal.

You can read my Amazon review for more details, but long story short, this is one of the best sticks ever made if you ask me, and definitely the best sub-$100 stick ever made.

Did I mention it's PS3 and 360 compatible out of the box?

If you're in the market for a cheap stick, look no further. Even if you have the money to splurge, this may end up being the best solution for your needs, especially if you want dual console compatibility.
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quash
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Re: Mayflash Arcade Fighting Stick V2 aka CHINABUSA

Post by quash »

Figured I'd post this here: I put together my Frankenstick the other day.

It's using the stock mounting hardware and pivot, along with a Link shaft, E-switch 50g switches, Kowal 1mm oversized actuator, JLF spring and JLF gate.

The end result is a little odd at first, but very nice once you get used to it. The oversized actuator gives you more or less the neutral zone and shorter throw of the LS-32, but the JLF parts and lighter switches give it a much better feel than an LS-32 would ever give you.

It's awesome for shooting games because you can just tap whichever direction with minimal force, as opposed to wrestling with the LS-32's spring. It's also nice for fighting games since you can change directions very quickly and easily compared to say a stock JLF or even a Hori Hayabusa due to the larger neutral zone and lighter switches.

Just one example of the kind of modding that can be done with this stick, and for very little money, at that.
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beatsgo
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Re: Mayflash Arcade Fighting Stick V2 aka CHINABUSA

Post by beatsgo »

I may get this if I feel like selling off my other sticks for sake of capability (ho hum UD-USB :mrgreen: ). How's the modding in general for it, especially underneath the bonnet?
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quash
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Re: Mayflash Arcade Fighting Stick V2 aka CHINABUSA

Post by quash »

It's pretty well laid out. 30mm buttons fit with no modification, and the holes in the panel are tapered so they can only fit one way.

The design is much like that of the later HRAPs or the Qanba sticks, so there's no separate compartment for the buttons/PCB; you take off the bottom plate and everything is there.

I normally like to load my sticks up with adhesive steel weights, but seeing as I'm mostly going to be using this for travel as well as the fact that it is really just right out of the box, I see no need to do so. There's not many places to put them in this stick, anyways.

(As an aside, the stock wiring is pretty decent too, actually. Much better than any Hori or Madcatz stick I've worked on. They even give you clear sleeves for the quick disconnects.)
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