NESRGB board available now

[slugman]

Just finished to install NESRGB + Component board into a Twin FC. Everything works perfectly

[Pasky]

Is it possible to use the component adapter in other consoles? Would mixing Green and Sync be sufficient to act as Y?

[mgy1523]

Cool. What pin header/pin/push/crimp molex-like connectors did you use?

I just used right angle pin headers with crimper wire and 1x1 connectors. As for the Multiout, I soldered the ended of the uncrimped side of the wire to the Multiout and used clear heat shrink tubing on the ends.

Here's the back of the Multiout by the way...

[mgy1523]

One thing that is terribly sad and a very truthful reality is that i'll never have skills such as this...

[ApolloBoy]

Is it possible to use the component adapter in other consoles? Would mixing Green and Sync be sufficient to act as Y?

Most consoles with RGB output already have luma available from their video encoders, so just amplifying that signal would be a lot simpler than trying to combine green and sync.

[Pasky]

Is it possible to use the component adapter in other consoles? Would mixing Green and Sync be sufficient to act as Y?

Most consoles with RGB output already have luma available from their video encoders, so just amplifying that signal would be a lot simpler than trying to combine green and sync.

Right, I specifically asked that because some consoles don't, also arcade boards.

[CkRtech]

Just for the record, there is no green in component video (YPbPr). Y is not green + sync. It is luma & contains sync by nature. It is totally different from sending RGB with a green signal containing sync.

I am unaware of any consoles that have native RGB that do not also have Y available in some form, even if some need encouragement (CXA1145, for instance).

For arcade boards, I guess you could do component J-Rock? Dunno if there is a better solution now. http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html

[ApolloBoy]

I am unaware of any consoles that have native RGB that do not also have Y available in some form, even if some need encouragement (CXA1145, for instance).

Genesis 2 consoles that have the Samsung KA2195D encoder have RGB, but they don't have chroma or luma output available. I think the Super Cassette Vision is another example since it outputs RGB but doesn't have a luma output available anywhere.

[CkRtech]

Huh. Interesting. A Genesis 2 with a KA2195D is pretty bad luck, I suppose - at least for S-Video, etc, needs.

[yxkalle]

If you remove the color subcarrier connection to the KA2195D (lift pin 6) it should output a black and white picture (luma) through the video output pin. Composite is a luma signal with the color added on top of it and it's like that to work on b/w TV's.

[mgy1523]

Here's some of my cable I've done so far. This just the multiout end, still doing the scart part...

[mvsfan]

i just ordered a component board from Tim. for a new project Im going to build a toaster with every analog video option available on it.

no im not using a multiout. I want lots of connectors on the back for the fun of it.

i guess the Blinking light wins will be shipping some time in march so that makes it even better.
for those who dont know, The blinking light win was a kickstarter by arcadeworks. is a complete re design of the nes cartridge connector and loading tray. No more pushing down Games, no more Zif connector.

Im going to start putting them in every toaster i build. I dont like shipping a working console only to have the person think its not working right because of the (brand new) zif connector and a dirty cartridge.

[mvsfan]

[quote="mgy1523"]One thing that is terribly sad and a very truthful reality is that i'll never have skills such as this...


only thing i can think of is that someone doesnt want others reverse enginering their mod.
but like it really matters. It looks like shit and it must be a nighmare for them to try and repair this stuff if it stops working.

[frsj8112]

Hi all, i have one nesrgb board from tims first batch installed in an AV Famicom and it works very well except for two of my games, Castlevania 3 and Battle Kid 1.
I also have a NTSC toaster NES (unmodded) and both games works fine with that console.

Here's what happens with the AV Famicom and CV3: http://youtu.be/fVGxurAoOrw

What could be wrong?

[Skips]

One thing that is terribly sad and a very truthful reality is that i'll never have skills such as this...


only thing i can think of is that someone doesnt want others reverse enginering their mod.
but like it really matters. It looks like shit and it must be a nighmare for them to try and repair this stuff if it stops working.

No its just your buddy Drakon's work and yes it was a pain in the ass to fix. I would know since I fixed it and took that picture. The colored wiring was what I did after picking all the glue off the bottom of the multiout. The solder joints on the sync and red pins were cold solder joints and had failed. The rest was so bad I couldn't be fucked to redo it and just left it since it still sort of "worked".

P.S. Hot glue does not tamper proof shit, it just makes the modder look like a jackass and costs the client even more money in man hours if he needs to pay someone to fix/change it later down the road (since they now have to remove it in addition to the mod work/repair).

I also still have the keyboard in that picture to show I did take it.

[Pasky]

Here's some of my cable I've done so far. This just the multiout end, still doing the scart part...

[PICS]

That ferrite core is gonna smear your image a bit. You're not dealing with a digital signal there.

[Skips]

Hi all, i have one nesrgb board from tims first batch installed in an AV Famicom and it works very well except for two of my games, Castlevania 3 and Battle Kid 1.
I also have a NTSC toaster NES (unmodded) and both games works fine with that console.

Here's what happens with the AV Famicom and CV3: http://youtu.be/fVGxurAoOrw

What could be wrong?

Unless you modded the NES to Famicom converter CV3 does not work with that model of converter. If I remember correctly it needs two pins connected on both ends, its been awhile since I have done it however and do not remember which ones.

[CkRtech]

Here's some of my cable I've done so far. This just the multiout end, still doing the scart part...

[PICS]

That ferrite core is gonna smear your image a bit. You're not dealing with a digital signal there.

What? Ferrite cores are used to reduce EMI and have been used on analog AV for years.

[yxkalle]

What? Ferrite cores are used to reduce EMI and have been used on analog AV for years.

+1
Sony used ferrite beads in their official Playstation A/V-cables.

[Pasky]

Here's some of my cable I've done so far. This just the multiout end, still doing the scart part...

[PICS]

That ferrite core is gonna smear your image a bit. You're not dealing with a digital signal there.

What? Ferrite cores are used to reduce EMI and have been used on analog AV for years.

Try it yourself, put one around your analog signal cable and watch the picture get smeared a bit if you have one you can clip on. It does reduce EMI, but it also causes a slight loss running the cable through an inductor.

[CkRtech]

Try it yourself, put one around your analog signal cable and watch the picture get smeared a bit if you have one you can clip on. It does reduce EMI, but it also causes a slight loss running the cable through an inductor.

I've made NES (NESRGB), SNES, Model 1 Genesis, and MSX RGB cables using VGA cables that already have ferrite cores at the ends of the cable, and I haven't noticed any smearing. These cores are used on VGA cables all of the time. As yxkalle mentioned, Sony has used them on their cables - both standard AV and component. They are quite standard on breakout AV cables that you would use to attach a camera to a display, and are also common in VGA to BNC adapters.

In all of these cases - even the cables I made - the ferrite cores were put there by the manufacturer for the purpose of EMI reduction for analog video. I went with the ones that were already on the cable. I suppose it is possible to select the wrong type of 3rd party, snap-on ferrite cores that aren't meant for this application, but I do not know.

[mgy1523]

That's exactly what I did for my cable. It's a VGA cable that I pretty much cut the ends off and just repurposed for my own use.

Quick question though. Should I ground the shielding around the RGB wires inside the VGA? As in Red's shielding to pin 13 (Red Ground) inside the SCART male side? Just wondering if that would have any added benefit ininstead of just grounding it with a separate wire.

[ApolloBoy]

Try it yourself, put one around your analog signal cable and watch the picture get smeared a bit if you have one you can clip on. It does reduce EMI, but it also causes a slight loss running the cable through an inductor.

I have ferrite cores over almost all of my RGB cables and I've never, ever noticed any loss in picture quality.

[Pasky]

Then you need glasses, compare it to a cable without them and you'll see there is a slight smear when you use a ferrite core.

[mgy1523]

One thing that is terribly sad and a very truthful reality is that i'll never have skills such as this...


only thing i can think of is that someone doesnt want others reverse enginering their mod.
but like it really matters. It looks like shit and it must be a nighmare for them to try and repair this stuff if it stops working.

No its just your buddy Drakon's work and yes it was a pain in the ass to fix. I would know since I fixed it and took that picture. The colored wiring was what I did after picking all the glue off the bottom of the multiout. The solder joints on the sync and red pins were cold solder joints and had failed. The rest was so bad I couldn't be fucked to redo it and just left it since it still sort of "worked".

P.S. Hot glue does not tamper proof shit, it just makes the modder look like a jackass and costs the client even more money in man hours if he needs to pay someone to fix/change it later down the road (since they now have to remove it in addition to the mod work/repair).

I also still have the keyboard in that picture to show I did take it.

Skips, I don't know how you would even begin to take all that hot glue off. That honestly looks like so fucking shameless and abysmal. How the hell could someone offer such a shit service and charge the prices he does. While researching I have stumbled upon drakon and his notorious shitty ass work (especially phonedorks experience) and his shameless antics of releasing info on Tim's board before Tim even made the NESRGB public. Guy is a fucking asshole and has no skill what so ever. We all have a starting point but to sell shit like that, and at his rediculous prices (ALONG WITH CHARGING A FUCKED UP AMOUNT TO FIX HIS OWN SHIT!) is inexcusable. I would gladly fix any of the units he ruined for people (or at least what is salvagble) for next to nothing. Leaves me in complete beffudlement knowing that dude existed.

[ApolloBoy]

Then you need glasses, compare it to a cable without them and you'll see there is a slight smear when you use a ferrite core.

I just tried taking off and putting back on the ferrite core on the SCART cable for my Famicom and sat directly in front on my PVM, with my eyes literally an inch from the screen, trying to notice any change. Didn't change a single bit. I can even take pics for you if you'd like.

And I wear glasses.

[Skips]

Skips, I don't know how you would even begin to take all that hot glue off. That honestly looks like so fucking shameless and abysmal. How the hell could someone offer such a shit service and charge the prices he does. While researching I have stumbled upon drakon and his notorious shitty ass work (especially phonedorks experience) and his shameless antics of releasing info on Tim's board before Tim even made the NESRGB public. Guy is a fucking asshole and has no skill what so ever. We all have a starting point but to sell shit like that, and at his rediculous prices (ALONG WITH CHARGING A FUCKED UP AMOUNT TO FIX HIS OWN SHIT!) is inexcusable. I would gladly fix any of the units he ruined for people (or at least what is salvagble) for next to nothing. Leaves me in complete beffudlement knowing that dude existed.

I was repairing these for free for a bit but I had enough people contact me to fix their's that I stopped (was too time consuming). You can remove hot glue with rubbing alcohol however the wires were buried it it and had to be redone. ANYWAY I'm not getting into it here because it will go off topic and they already removed the stuff about this sort of stuff once from this thread. You can talk about it here in this very public and well known thread - http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthrea ... ork-Thread

[frsj8112]

Hi all, i have one nesrgb board from tims first batch installed in an AV Famicom and it works very well except for two of my games, Castlevania 3 and Battle Kid 1.
I also have a NTSC toaster NES (unmodded) and both games works fine with that console.

Here's what happens with the AV Famicom and CV3: http://youtu.be/fVGxurAoOrw

What could be wrong?

Unless you modded the NES to Famicom converter CV3 does not work with that model of converter. If I remember correctly it needs two pins connected on both ends, its been awhile since I have done it however and do not remember which ones.

I followed this image and that makes it work!!

[thea3on]

So I'm trying to install etims RGB board into a US NES-101 and I'm having some issues with the pinouts. I removed the RF modulator box cleanly and mounted Helder's multi-out adapter instead. From here I'm a little fuzzy on what needs to be done. I've read to disable the RF-modulator and be able to use the multi-out there may be traces to break or transistors to remove. The NES I'm using is unmodified (no AV mod done before). As well, I'd like to pass-through audio to etims board, do I simply take wires from pin 1 & 2 of the CPU and move them to pins A & B on etims board, then have it passed out through pin O to the multi-out?

To make matters worse, I'll be connecting this with a SNES scart cable to a xrgb multi. I've read this cable will not work and I'll need one with the caps removed. Is this the case? I also ready funny things about using different pins for sync for rgb to work on the xrgb mini as per GameTechUS videos.

Below is my understanding of how the pinouts should go/what my plan is for the pallet switch. So far I've desoldered the PPU (2 hours) and put etims board/adapter together. That's about it.



Thank for the help in advance, I'm having a hard time finding info on modding the US NES-101 and most documentation/guides are for the AV Famicom.

[mgy1523]

By the way, my cable works beautifully and has absolutely no smear. It's perfect and I'm actually making more.