If you look at the screenshots on that first page it should be obvious. For example the R-Type status bar doesn't show up on the 4 dip version, but does on the 3 dip. And the 3 dip version came later, the 4 dip is the original and still slightly buggy model. I've never actually seen a 4 dip in person, only the very first run of them had that. 99% of them are the 3 dip version.
It says the picture quality is better on the 4 dip version, but the 3 dip version is compatible with more PCBs.
I have two of the 3 dip version and 1 of the 4 dip version, I don't really notice a big difference between the two.
It always shows up all of the screen, even on problematic stuff like Toaplan PCBs and R-Type.
So it's not like XRGB-2 where it adds a mask around the edges that can hide picture data.
In my experience the XRGB-1 is the most compatible, excluding XEXEX (I believe this works on the XRGB-2).
There's a few things to keep in mind with the XRGB-1:
- It uses the two-row 15 pin out for video, not the usual VGA port. You can get adapters but they're hard to find outside of Japan.
- It expects +1V on the Ys pin for autoswitching to RGB signal. On the other hand XRGB-2/3/mini will display image as long as it's getting a valid RGB signal.
You can bypass this requirement by wiring the positive LED pad to the Ys pin on the XRGB-1 PCB, I have done this to all of my XRGB-1s.
- The compatibility with LCD monitors is less compared to XRGB-2 and 3. It seems to be more geared for VGA CRT monitors.
That's not to say it won't work with LCDs, but there are some LCDs it may not work with - for example it doesn't seem to like my ASUS monitors.
- No adjustments besides RGB level and brightness, by manual pots, and a few dip switches. Your monitor should have adjustments for positioning the signal.
- No scanlines. You can add a mini-SLG to the signal chain if you want.
alamone wrote:There's a few things to keep in mind with the XRGB-1:
- It expects +1V on the Ys pin for autoswitching to RGB signal. On the other hand XRGB-2/3/mini will display image as long as it's getting a valid RGB signal. You can bypass this requirement by wiring the positive LED pad to the Ys pin on the XRGB-1 PCB, I have done this to all of my XRGB-1s.
Hi Alamone, would you mind posting images of this modification for reference? I'd like to wire my XRGB-1 in this fashion as well.
does it cut a few lines from a number of pcbs like the XRGB-2 does ?
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