NESRGB board available now

[DarkAries]

Okay so I finally have the pics. Now I went and got a desoldering pump and found my spare NES parts. Gutted a PPU in no time, and no broken pins, pop it into the NESRGB and...garbage graphics. Sound works fine but the graphics are just blocks, as if the cart is not properly in, but it 100% is because the game plays but graphics are all messed up. Pin 5 is shorted but that only does composite anyways right? The rest are all open. I'll get a proper capture of the grabage mess tomorrow after I thinker with it some more. Now I'd be fine just ordering another one, do another install and see if that works fine but looks like it's sold out again for time being...


http://imgur.com/a/1uYJb

Here's an imgur album so I don't have to resize the images to fit the forum. I hope they are good enough to start helping me out. I was so happy when I got garbage graphics working today because it means I got somewhere.

[mvsfan]

some of your solder on the motherboard socket pins looks like its not completely melted into the joint. you want to hold your soldering iron on the joints longer.

right now its just kinda sitting around some of the pins.

id almost bet if you reflowed it that it would work better.

theres also 1 pin on the motherboard socket that looks like its bridged and shorted to a via.

[Voultar]

Why are you are you powering the NESRGB from the NES' 7805 with jumper wire?

If you short J3 on the NESRGB board, the NESRGB will be powered by the 5v rail on pin 40 of the PPU.

And yeah, I'd go back over the joints. None of those that I can see wetted well.

[Skips]

Okay so I finally have the pics. Now I went and got a desoldering pump and found my spare NES parts. Gutted a PPU in no time, and no broken pins, pop it into the NESRGB and...garbage graphics. Sound works fine but the graphics are just blocks, as if the cart is not properly in, but it 100% is because the game plays but graphics are all messed up. Pin 5 is shorted but that only does composite anyways right? The rest are all open. I'll get a proper capture of the grabage mess tomorrow after I thinker with it some more. Now I'd be fine just ordering another one, do another install and see if that works fine but looks like it's sold out again for time being...


http://imgur.com/a/1uYJb

Here's an imgur album so I don't have to resize the images to fit the forum. I hope they are good enough to start helping me out. I was so happy when I got garbage graphics working today because it means I got somewhere.

You have A LOT of cold solder joints there. When soldering you need to heat the pad you will be soldering to then apply solder to the pad. Never apply solder directly to the iron except when tinning the iron initially. Make sure you are also properly tinning your wires. To do this you apply heat to the wire with the iron then apply the solder to the wire (not the iron). You really need to go back and fix all that as colder solder joints are brittle and will not last. A correctly soldering joint will be shiny not dull.

[Skips]

Some more Famicom love since it is seriously lacking in this thread. This time I used the stock Famicom power circuit and mounted the PCB under the Famicom PCB in order to keep the eject lever intact and functional. It appears the Famicom can take the NESRGB without the included power regulator (you still need to put thermal compound on the regulator though). Added US controller ports and an SNES AV port. Unlike the last one this one is wired for RGB, S-Video, and composite. The RF switch in the back is used to switch between the PC10 palette and the Original palette. Sadly this one is not as clean as my other work. There are still some things left to do (like use double sided sticky tape instead of shitty ass hot glue and replace the CPU) and ill be cleaning this rats nest up a good deal when I have done everything.

I also connected the NESRGB sound circuit. Like the AV Famicom it works just fine in the original Famicom. You just need to isolate pin 45 on the cartridge slot and run it through your choice of resistor to the NESRGB kit.

[Einzelherz]

Why are you are you powering the NESRGB from the NES' 7805 with jumper wire?

If you short J3 on the NESRGB board, the NESRGB will be powered by the 5v rail on pin 40 of the PPU.

And yeah, I'd go back over the joints. None of those that I can see wetted well.

Because that's what the instructions say to do.

[DarkAries]

Okay I'll go over the pins again, I'm not putting solder on my iron but the pad but I guess the pin isn't heating up enough or something. I'v already tried reflowing the solder so many times. And yeah the instructions say to use the regulator so I am...>_>. My Iron gets pretty hot so I'm scared if I keep it on the pad to long it'll lift the trace.

[Skips]

Okay I'll go over the pins again, I'm not putting solder on my iron but the pad but I guess the pin isn't heating up enough or something. I'v already tried reflowing the solder so many times. And yeah the instructions say to use the regulator so I am...>_>. My Iron gets pretty hot so I'm scared if I keep it on the pad to long it'll lift the trace.

You would have to be running a 40+ watt iron on max to do that. It also only takes a second or two for it to adequately heat the pin/pad. Also make sure you are using rosin core solder. This type of solder has flux in the center which helps eat away oxidation. This allows the solder to flow correctly.

[daskrabs]

Some more Famicom love since it is seriously lacking in this thread. This time I used the stock Famicom power circuit and mounted the PCB under the Famicom PCB in order to keep the eject lever intact and functional. It appears the Famicom can take the NESRGB without the included power regulator (you still need to put thermal compound on the regulator though). Added US controller ports and an SNES AV port. Unlike the last one this one is wired for RGB, S-Video, and composite. The RF switch in the back is used to switch between the PC10 palette and the Original palette. Sadly this one is not as clean as my other work. There are still some things left to do (like use double sided sticky tape instead of shitty ass hot glue and replace the CPU) and ill be cleaning this rats nest up a good deal when I have done everything.

I also connected the NESRGB sound circuit. Like the AV Famicom it works just fine in the original Famicom. You just need to isolate pin 45 on the cartridge slot and run it through your choice of resistor to the NESRGB kit.

Love it. Well done.

[DarkAries]

Okay I'll go over the pins again, I'm not putting solder on my iron but the pad but I guess the pin isn't heating up enough or something. I'v already tried reflowing the solder so many times. And yeah the instructions say to use the regulator so I am...>_>. My Iron gets pretty hot so I'm scared if I keep it on the pad to long it'll lift the trace.

You would have to be running a 40+ watt iron on max to do that. It also only takes a second or two for it to adequately heat the pin/pad. Also make sure you are using rosin core solder. This type of solder has flux in the center which helps eat away oxidation. This allows the solder to flow correctly.

This iron is only a year old, and I'm using 63/37 RA flux solder. I'm debating on doing to the store and getting a flux pen or something. Anywho I'm going to tinker with it some more. Also can a front loader go on without the extra regulator? Two less wires is always less to troubleshoot.

[Skips]

Okay I'll go over the pins again, I'm not putting solder on my iron but the pad but I guess the pin isn't heating up enough or something. I'v already tried reflowing the solder so many times. And yeah the instructions say to use the regulator so I am...>_>. My Iron gets pretty hot so I'm scared if I keep it on the pad to long it'll lift the trace.

You would have to be running a 40+ watt iron on max to do that. It also only takes a second or two for it to adequately heat the pin/pad. Also make sure you are using rosin core solder. This type of solder has flux in the center which helps eat away oxidation. This allows the solder to flow correctly.

This iron is only a year old, and I'm using 63/37 RA flux solder. I'm debating on doing to the store and getting a flux pen or something. Anywho I'm going to tinker with it some more. Also can a front loader go on without the extra regulator? Two less wires is always less to troubleshoot.

Yes the front loader can HOWEVER I strongly recommend picking up some thermal compound such as arctic silver to put on the NES power regulator. If you don't it may get to hot. You will also need to close jumper 3 on the NESRGB kit.

[Zets13]

Some more Famicom love since it is seriously lacking in this thread. This time I used the stock Famicom power circuit and mounted the PCB under the Famicom PCB in order to keep the eject lever intact and functional. It appears the Famicom can take the NESRGB without the included power regulator (you still need to put thermal compound on the regulator though). Added US controller ports and an SNES AV port. Unlike the last one this one is wired for RGB, S-Video, and composite. The RF switch in the back is used to switch between the PC10 palette and the Original palette. Sadly this one is not as clean as my other work. There are still some things left to do (like use double sided sticky tape instead of shitty ass hot glue and replace the CPU) and ill be cleaning this rats nest up a good deal when I have done everything.

I also connected the NESRGB sound circuit. Like the AV Famicom it works just fine in the original Famicom. You just need to isolate pin 45 on the cartridge slot and run it through your choice of resistor to the NESRGB kit.

Nice looking Famicom. I definitely think it is still the best looking of the US/JP models of NES/Famis.

Can't wait for Tim to release the adapter board so I can install an NESRGB in my original Famicom.

[DarkAries]

Yes the front loader can HOWEVER I strongly recommend picking up some thermal compound such as arctic silver to put on the NES power regulator. If you don't it may get to hot. You will also need to close jumper 3 on the NESRGB kit.

Oh perfect. I have some AS5 so it should be good. Just put some behind the regulator after you screw it off right?

[Skips]

Clean off the back of the regulator, make sure all the old stuff is off (it needs to be spotless so you get good contact between the regulator and heatsink). Rubbing alcohol will do this quite easily. Next apply a very thin and even layer to the back of the regulator (too much will prevent heat transfer). Finally just screw the regulator back into place.

[Bancho]

Finally got my NESRGB installed in my AV Famicom. I have to thank lettuce for helping me out in removing the PPU as i made a right mess of it when i attempted it. Fortunately i never damaged it.

I have to say i was floored when i finally plugged it in and fired it up. The quality is amazing!!!

Couple of pics i snapped from my 21" Sony Trinitron CRT.

[bobrocks95]

Some more Famicom love since it is seriously lacking in this thread. This time I used the stock Famicom power circuit and mounted the PCB under the Famicom PCB in order to keep the eject lever intact and functional. It appears the Famicom can take the NESRGB without the included power regulator (you still need to put thermal compound on the regulator though). Added US controller ports and an SNES AV port. Unlike the last one this one is wired for RGB, S-Video, and composite. The RF switch in the back is used to switch between the PC10 palette and the Original palette. Sadly this one is not as clean as my other work. There are still some things left to do (like use double sided sticky tape instead of shitty ass hot glue and replace the CPU) and ill be cleaning this rats nest up a good deal when I have done everything.

I also connected the NESRGB sound circuit. Like the AV Famicom it works just fine in the original Famicom. You just need to isolate pin 45 on the cartridge slot and run it through your choice of resistor to the NESRGB kit.

That is one sparkly white Famicom. How'd you do the US controller mod? Unplug the Fami controllers internally (or are they soldered on? Haven't looked at the inside of mine in a while) and build your own cord? Then did you cut the ends of the Fami controllers and turn them into US plugs?

[Skips]

Some more Famicom love since it is seriously lacking in this thread. This time I used the stock Famicom power circuit and mounted the PCB under the Famicom PCB in order to keep the eject lever intact and functional. It appears the Famicom can take the NESRGB without the included power regulator (you still need to put thermal compound on the regulator though). Added US controller ports and an SNES AV port. Unlike the last one this one is wired for RGB, S-Video, and composite. The RF switch in the back is used to switch between the PC10 palette and the Original palette. Sadly this one is not as clean as my other work. There are still some things left to do (like use double sided sticky tape instead of shitty ass hot glue and replace the CPU) and ill be cleaning this rats nest up a good deal when I have done everything.

I also connected the NESRGB sound circuit. Like the AV Famicom it works just fine in the original Famicom. You just need to isolate pin 45 on the cartridge slot and run it through your choice of resistor to the NESRGB kit.

That is one sparkly white Famicom. How'd you do the US controller mod? Unplug the Fami controllers internally (or are they soldered on? Haven't looked at the inside of mine in a while) and build your own cord? Then did you cut the ends of the Fami controllers and turn them into US plugs?

I wanted to keep it so i could easily revert back to the original famicom controllers if I wanted (i have a bunch). so i cut the connectors off and soldered US extension cables to them and ran those out the back of the system. All you have to do is know the pinout and you can install them easily. I put a US controller pcb in the player one controller and in the player 2 controller i hard soldered a US cable to the controller PCB (2nd player has a different controller pcb so you cant use the NES one).

[mvsfan]

as far as the frontloader is concerned - it will run without the second regulator but for extra insurance i put new thermal compound on the voltage regulator as well as upgrading the 1A regulator to a 1.5A one.

i also did a test i ran a system for almost 14 hours (way longer than you would ever continuously play it) and that system is still running fine and the regulator just gets warm like it should.

do so at your own risk - but ive had zero problems running it off of a 1.5A regulator.

[ApolloBoy]

I wanted to keep it so i could easily revert back to the original famicom controllers if I wanted (i have a bunch). so i cut the connectors off and soldered US extension cables to them and ran those out the back of the system. All you have to do is know the pinout and you can install them easily. I put a US controller pcb in the player one controller and in the player 2 controller i hard soldered a US cable to the controller PCB (2nd player has a different controller pcb so you cant use the NES one).

That's pretty much what I did with both my Twin Famicom and original Famicom (still waiting on that adapter board to surface BTW!), except I took it a step further and wired up a switch for either Zapper or mic support. You also have to add an additional wire for Zapper support but it's nothing real complicated.

[game-tech.us]

except I took it a step further and wired up a switch for either Zapper or mic support. You also have to add an additional wire for Zapper support but it's nothing real complicated.

Can you explain further or give a link to this mod?

[ApolloBoy]

except I took it a step further and wired up a switch for either Zapper or mic support. You also have to add an additional wire for Zapper support but it's nothing real complicated.

Can you explain further or give a link to this mod?

A normal NES/Famicom controller only uses five pins (clock, strobe, data, 5V and ground), whereas the second controller on the Famicom adds an additional pin for the microphone output. What I did was add a switch with the center pole going to the D4 pin of the NES side. One end of the switch goes to the mic output and another to D4 on the expansion port. That's not quite enough for Zapper support though, so you also have to wire up D3 from the expansion port to its corresponding pin on the NES side. Having this setup also means you can use the Power Pad (which uses both D3 and D4 like the Zapper) and four-player adapters.

[leonk]

Skips: thanks for sharing.

Couple of suggestions (minor and take with grain of salt) based on my experience I would change the following:

- stop using 30ga solid core wire. 28ga strand (eg IDE ribbon) is better wire for long runs and longevity. It also transmits signal much better (electrons flow on surface of copper and not in copper)
- try to source GameCube multiAV ports rather than snes. Much cheaper, has shielding and is square. I hate those tabs on the snes ports. Doesn't look as clean.

Can you elaborate what all those wires are for? Is it for the nes ports / gun?

[juji82]

Hello guys, I just got myself an AV Famicom. I am looking for someone that can perform the mod here in Japan. Anybody can help me?

[Skips]

Skips: thanks for sharing.

Couple of suggestions (minor and take with grain of salt) based on my experience I would change the following:

- stop using 30ga solid core wire. 28ga strand (eg IDE ribbon) is better wire for long runs and longevity. It also transmits signal much better (electrons flow on surface of copper and not in copper)
- try to source GameCube multiAV ports rather than snes. Much cheaper, has shielding and is square. I hate those tabs on the snes ports. Doesn't look as clean.

Can you elaborate what all those wires are for? Is it for the nes ports / gun?

I normally don't use 30 awg wire, go look at all my other projects (its all 26 AWG). I dislike 30 awg pretty badly unfortunately it was not avoidable in this situation. Smaller wire was Tim's recommendation as 26-28awg was causing issues with the clock syncing at startup. You also have to keep it as flat as possible because there is 0 space underneath the Famicom (using all 28 AWG was making it sandwich against the bottom of the shell, thus putting a good deal of pressure on the NES RGB PCB (not good). All those wires are connecting the PPU to the kit and whatnot, the PPU is still soldered sitting up top on the Famicom PCB. This keeps the eject lever in tact and the system mostly stock looking. There is method and reason to the madness and thin wires this time. As for the snes it cost me free 99. I am strongly against "sourcing" and sacking parts unless the system is beyond repair without killing another working system. This SNES was too far gone to repair making it the perfect candidate for this project.

[Skips]

except I took it a step further and wired up a switch for either Zapper or mic support. You also have to add an additional wire for Zapper support but it's nothing real complicated.

Can you explain further or give a link to this mod?

A normal NES/Famicom controller only uses five pins (clock, strobe, data, 5V and ground), whereas the second controller on the Famicom adds an additional pin for the microphone output. What I did was add a switch with the center pole going to the D4 pin of the NES side. One end of the switch goes to the mic output and another to D4 on the expansion port. That's not quite enough for Zapper support though, so you also have to wire up D3 from the expansion port to its corresponding pin on the NES side. Having this setup also means you can use the Power Pad (which uses both D3 and D4 like the Zapper) and four-player adapters.

Ill admit i was kinda lazy with mine, I just wired it for US zapper support since i don't play anything with mic support.

[game-tech.us]

except I took it a step further and wired up a switch for either Zapper or mic support. You also have to add an additional wire for Zapper support but it's nothing real complicated.

Can you explain further or give a link to this mod?

A normal NES/Famicom controller only uses five pins (clock, strobe, data, 5V and ground), whereas the second controller on the Famicom adds an additional pin for the microphone output. What I did was add a switch with the center pole going to the D4 pin of the NES side. One end of the switch goes to the mic output and another to D4 on the expansion port. That's not quite enough for Zapper support though, so you also have to wire up D3 from the expansion port to its corresponding pin on the NES side. Having this setup also means you can use the Power Pad (which uses both D3 and D4 like the Zapper) and four-player adapters.

I ask because i've had a few ppl ask for the mic support to be added to the av fami and I never found a write up on how to do it, but I did find the zapper restore mod.
This might help me figure out how to do it...

[ApolloBoy]

I ask because i've had a few ppl ask for the mic support to be added to the av fami and I never found a write up on how to do it, but I did find the zapper restore mod.
This might help me figure out how to do it...

Well with the AV Famicom you'd need to build additional circuitry inside the system and figure out how to mix in the mic output. If you look at the schematic for the original Famicom it should give you a good idea of what's needed.

[daskrabs]

Turns out my trouble is the AV Famicom not the NESRGB. Same black screen and buzz when the NESRGB is removed and the composite line restored. Any ideas what might have fried or where I should start troubleshooting? Sorry for threadjacking.

[leonk]

Thanks for your reply skips. In my neck of the woods it's much easier to find 5$ GameCube in value village then an snes so I go with what I can find.

I too can't wait for Tim to release power PCB for famicom, got a nice one with working FDS but no way to connect to my PVM. I was thinking of doing what you did but I like to know that my systems are as "clean" inside as outside.

Keep posting your work. Really inspiring.

[Jeppen]

Some more Famicom love since it is seriously lacking in this thread. This time I used the stock Famicom power circuit and mounted the PCB under the Famicom PCB in order to keep the eject lever intact and functional. It appears the Famicom can take the NESRGB without the included power regulator (you still need to put thermal compound on the regulator though). Added US controller ports and an SNES AV port. Unlike the last one this one is wired for RGB, S-Video, and composite. The RF switch in the back is used to switch between the PC10 palette and the Original palette. Sadly this one is not as clean as my other work. There are still some things left to do (like use double sided sticky tape instead of shitty ass hot glue and replace the CPU) and ill be cleaning this rats nest up a good deal when I have done everything.

I also connected the NESRGB sound circuit. Like the AV Famicom it works just fine in the original Famicom. You just need to isolate pin 45 on the cartridge slot and run it through your choice of resistor to the NESRGB kit.

Beautiful!
I am also installing an Original Famicom and i'm having problems..

I've been trying to connect it like this 2 times, buit with the same errors, the picture only shows when i wiggle the game and flickering screen, the game actually shows up, in RGB quality, but the screen flickers and iot won't go into Intro scene of the game, though i can move the 1 player/2player selector arrow , so it's not justr a dead picture.
It's not the cartridge that is the problem, this much i know.

It felt hopeless so i removed everything again and just installed the NESRGB board straight ontp the motherboard just to see if it works, and it works flawlessly, games boot up perfectly everytime.

One thing i did differently is that the on off switch is a double pole - double throw, so the Famicom and the NESRGB is powered on at the same time (2 switches in 1 - Wash & Go) So the extra #Reset should not have to be installed to sync the NESRGB + Motherboard together.

It is very frustrating that i get the same error twice on comepltetly scratch installations according to TIm's instructions on his site.


Another issue i'm having is that when i switch from a Mini-din 8 to a Euro Scart cable, the picture is Black & White.
I had to use he Y connection to sync as the #CS did not work with the Scart connector to the TV, (No picture, only some occasional horizontal stripes as i connect the #CS.

Any ideas?