You can either use an USB-cable directly to your USB enabled console (PC, 360 or PS3) or buy an RJ45->USB, RJ45->PSX, RJ45->Dreamcast, RJ45->etc...spadgy wrote:The PS360+ PCB has two outs: a USB and an RJ45. Am I correct that you can run a cable from either to PS3/360 (obviously with there being a USB connector on the other end!)?
| My games - http://www.emphatic.seRegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.
Thanks again mate! So, I'd don't need to get all my older sticks? Good; I was looking for an excuse to keep them. I'm mainly after a PS360+ or two to make my already modded VSHGs support my 360 (currently I run with Fighting Stick 360s for my 360, and they're... ok.emphatic wrote:You can either use an USB-cable directly to your USB enabled console (PC, 360 or PS3) or buy an RJ45->USB, RJ45->PSX, RJ45->Dreamcast, RJ45->etc...spadgy wrote:The PS360+ PCB has two outs: a USB and an RJ45. Am I correct that you can run a cable from either to PS3/360 (obviously with there being a USB connector on the other end!)?
Beware though, that the PSX support is shoddy at best and the DC support requires you to power on the console before plugging the RJ45 connector into your PS360+
Why not order it directly from Akihabarashop? Or check out Jasenscustoms, I think he has the lowest US price. I have no EU seller link, sorry.TransatlanticFoe wrote:While we're on the PS360+, where's a good place to get one from in the EU?
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/ ... prioritiesTransatlanticFoe wrote:What's wrong with the PSX support? I was hoping to have something to go well with PSX/PS2 as well given that they're supported.
| My games - http://www.emphatic.seRegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.
Can confirm that's false, it's just two guys running the outfit and they're pretty passionate about what they do, but I guess during rush-times a few orders can get botched. I've had nothing but great service and great cables from them though.Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGB (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
Do they still not bother to wire all the grounds?BuckoA51 wrote:Can confirm that's false, it's just two guys running the outfit and they're pretty passionate about what they do, but I guess during rush-times a few orders can get botched. I've had nothing but great service and great cables from them though.Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGB (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
Yep, they still don't. A few months ago I had them build a custom SCART cable for one of my modding customers (I added RGB to his TurboDuo), and because they didn't wire up all the grounds (in addition to not wiring the DIN shroud for ground) it caused problems for my customer. Ever since then I've built SCART cables when needed for my customers.bobrocks95 wrote:Do they still not bother to wire all the grounds?BuckoA51 wrote:Can confirm that's false, it's just two guys running the outfit and they're pretty passionate about what they do, but I guess during rush-times a few orders can get botched. I've had nothing but great service and great cables from them though.Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGB (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
there are mechanical switches which don't use any ICs, but I wouldn't recommend them. Cheaper ones will use ICs, but might run without an external PSU. They just use 5V from an active signal coming in. Whatever you decide for, just don't get an automatic switch. Always get one with manual input selection.Which means a DVDI-D switch (all those I've come across appear not to use a psu) wouldn't need any kind of 5v input if the input signals don't have HDCP... right?
IIRC, that's the rotation for SPI mobos.spadgy wrote:I know there's that 'SW1' switch on the SP1 mobo, but I'm away from my set-up!
| My games - http://www.emphatic.seRegalSin wrote:Street Fighters. We need to aviod them when we activate time accellerator.
So it actually is the exact same thing as with HDMI switches? Guess I'll have to look hard then... there didn't seem to be anything decent for a tolerable price on amazon, unless I missed something.Fudoh wrote:there are mechanical switches which don't use any ICs, but I wouldn't recommend them. Cheaper ones will use ICs, but might run without an external PSU. They just use 5V from an active signal coming in. Whatever you decide for, just don't get an automatic switch. Always get one with manual input selection.Which means a DVDI-D switch (all those I've come across appear not to use a psu) wouldn't need any kind of 5v input if the input signals don't have HDCP... right?
Tomorrow morning, I shall confirm that one! I know there's switches for that slightly convoluted method of swapping an SP1 cart, but that doesn't appear to use the SW1 switch.emphatic wrote:IIRC, that's the rotation for SPI mobos.spadgy wrote:I know there's that 'SW1' switch on the SP1 mobo, but I'm away from my set-up!
Ugh... yeah, you can go from DVI-D to HDMI and back to DVI-D, I completely forgot about that. That also makes looking for switches much easier. HDMI connectors suck, but what can you do. At least for the scaler setup I know I won't have to constantly switch the plugs around. I was about to replace my current HDMI switch anyways.What do you want to spend ? There's a 4:1 HDMI switch from Ligawo which also does audio extraction (to SPDIF and analogue stereo) which I usually recommend. I think it's around 39 EUR.
I planned on using HDMI-DVI cables anyways since I've been using one for years with my VP30. So the Redmere HDMI cable + DVi adapter at the end ensures better stabilty than a regular HDMI-DVI cable in the same place?Fudoh wrote:Just try not to use too many HDMI to DVI adapters. I had so many bad experiences with those. Stick with DVI to HDMI cables if you need some and possibly ONE Redmere HDMI cable along with an adapter at the end of the chain. The Monoprice Redmere cables are available from Amazon.de for next to nothing.
5:2 switches are probably not this easy to find. 4:2 matrix switches are common though.
I've replaced most my HDMI cables with Redmere ones. Redmere cables only work in one direction and they have a little IC inside the cable (at the monitor's end) which makes sure that the signal is 100% identical to the source. If you buy the shorter ones (up to 3m), they also extremely thin. Like Apple USB cables.So the Redmere HDMI cable + DVi adapter at the end ensures better stabilty than a regular HDMI-DVI cable in the same place?
I find them quite pricey in Germany. Looking for a ~10m cable and there's no reasonably priced offer. For ~80€ I could buy a Monster cable...Fudoh wrote:The Monoprice Redmere cables are available from Amazon.de for next to nothing.
That sounds almost like magic! A while back I bought a 10m HDMI cable to route along my wall to connect my PC with the HDMI switch without having the cable lying on the floor, but the signal ended up being pretty much dead when it arrived at the screen. So using a Redmere cable at the end would fix even that?Fudoh wrote:I've replaced most my HDMI cables with Redmere ones. Redmere cables only work in one direction and they have a little IC inside the cable (at the monitor's end) which makes sure that the signal is 100% identical to the source. If you buy the shorter ones (up to 3m), they also extremely thin. Like Apple USB cables.So the Redmere HDMI cable + DVi adapter at the end ensures better stabilty than a regular HDMI-DVI cable in the same place?
yes. Unfortunately, as just noticed, currently only the short ones are in stock at Amazon.Just to be sure... these cables do their job even when they're connected to the output of a switch or matrix... yes?
True, but fortunately that's just right for me.Fudoh wrote:yes. Unfortunately, as just noticed, currently only the short ones are in stock at Amazon.Just to be sure... these cables do their job even when they're connected to the output of a switch or matrix... yes?
I cannot answer the repro question, however the SNES units older than that one did not have that sticker present. You could simply remove it completely (which, imo, looks better). Of course then there is the issue of molded EJECT or sticker EJECT on your eject button and if it matches the Power warning sticker as well as the corresponding serial number...but then maybe that is just too much of a requirement.BlackStealth08 wrote:Now me being picky I like my consoles 100% stock and looking as good as I can get it. I was wondering if the sticker labels for Snes were reproduced and or sold anywhere. I would like to replace it with a newer one if possible.
Brilliant, although I went for the somewhat expensive one anyways since I thought I'd be the better choice in the long run. However the next morning I realized I still had to buy BNC cables to connect the scalers and my analogue matrixFudoh wrote:Anti LED bumpers: http://www.ebay.de/itm/0-06-1Stk-peha-E ... 258de8a69c
, so I had to go for cheap ones. Hopefuly that'll work out for me.
