LOL, you can't magically convert composite or S-video to RGB using that converter. You have to get RGB cables in order to use RGB.BlackStealth08 wrote: Would using this cable
http://www.retrogamingcables.com/sony-p ... r-bnc.html
With this adaptor
http://www.miniinthebox.com/scart-21-pi ... Ogod1SwAdA
allow my 15khz PVM monitor to display in RGB? Sorry I am not too keen on this topic.
I only have Component A/V cables for these consoles and don't want to buy a RGB cable for every console.
Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
This. Also you don't have component cables, but composite cables.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Oh I see, so than is there a way to just convert the composite to RGB so I don't have to buy RGB cables for every console?
And for consoles that don't produce a RGB signal how would I go about converting the composite signal to RGB without modding the console?
And for consoles that don't produce a RGB signal how would I go about converting the composite signal to RGB without modding the console?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It has already been answered.
RGB cables cost around 15€ per piece. Surely that's not out of the question if you own a PVM...
You cannot restore the original RGB signal from lossy composite. You can convert composite to RGB, but it will look identical.ApolloBoy wrote:you can't magically convert composite or S-video to RGB using that converter. You have to get RGB cables in order to use RGB.
RGB cables cost around 15€ per piece. Surely that's not out of the question if you own a PVM...
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Trust me I had to jump through hoops to get that PVM work. I don't have all that much money to spend. Just want these fun consoles to display in RGB but I have no idea what exact cables I must buy to accomplish this. I don't mind buying multiple cables for each console if I have too, just need to know what it is I need.blizzz wrote:It has already been answered.You cannot restore the original RGB signal from lossy composite. You can convert composite to RGB, but it will look identical.ApolloBoy wrote:you can't magically convert composite or S-video to RGB using that converter. You have to get RGB cables in order to use RGB.
RGB cables cost around 15€ per piece. Surely that's not out of the question if you own a PVM...
If I buy these two cables would this give me RGB? I can't find anything on a SuperNintendo RGB cable that doesn't involve SCART.
http://www.retrogamingcables.com/super- ... -sale.html
http://www.retrogamingcables.com/sony-p ... r-bnc.html
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Scart is the standard consumer connector for anything RGB related. If your PVM doesn't have Scart, get a Scart to BNC (or DB25) breakout cable once and then just get standard Scart RGB cables for your systems.If I buy these two cables would this give me RGB? I can't find anything on a SuperNintendo RGB cable that doesn't involve SCART.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Two important notes:
Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGB (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
Instead one can get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Nintendo- ... 2ed2871597
and connect it to a SCART to BNC cable,
sold here by the user Daskrabs (look up his profile and PM him).
Make sure to pay attention to the pinout - EURO SCART style is what you want in both cables, NOT JP-21 RGB.
Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGB (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
Instead one can get this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Nintendo- ... 2ed2871597
and connect it to a SCART to BNC cable,
sold here by the user Daskrabs (look up his profile and PM him).
Make sure to pay attention to the pinout - EURO SCART style is what you want in both cables, NOT JP-21 RGB.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I figured, knew SCART is the same as RGB just different connectors.
I have a PVM 1943MD it doesn't have a SCART or 25pin d-sub input.
Thank you for all the help and sorry to all the trouble.
I have a PVM 1943MD it doesn't have a SCART or 25pin d-sub input.
Thank you for all the help and sorry to all the trouble.
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Okay thanks. Also must Scart to BNC breakout cable be shielded be as well? If so where can I get a shielded one?Ed Oscuro wrote:Two important notes:
Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGB (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Question about Sony Wega TV's. Are all of them 1080i, or are some of them normal 480i TV's? I ask because I'm checking this thing out, but I want to make sure I'm getting proper scanlines and no lag.
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/ele/4526912709.html
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/ele/4526912709.html
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Not all WEGA TVs will output 1080i depending on the size and year it was released.BazookaBen wrote:Question about Sony Wega TV's. Are all of them 1080i, or are some of them normal 480i TV's? I ask because I'm checking this thing out, but I want to make sure I'm getting proper scanlines and no lag.
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/ele/4526912709.html
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
That's definitely one of the 480i ones. Looks like a KV-27FS120 or similar model. Very common and somewhat lower end, but still very nice.BazookaBen wrote:Question about Sony Wega TV's. Are all of them 1080i, or are some of them normal 480i TV's? I ask because I'm checking this thing out, but I want to make sure I'm getting proper scanlines and no lag.
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/ele/4526912709.html
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Thanks. I was just thrown off by the fact that some TV's from the early 2000's are branded Wega, where as others are only have the Trinitron name in that corner.
What makes a Wega a Wega? Arbitrary marketing decision?
What makes a Wega a Wega? Arbitrary marketing decision?
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I never understood that fully either. My suspicion is that the Wega name was just a marketing gimmick, and when the Trinitron name started to lose its appeal they started throwing Wega up in the corner instead.BazookaBen wrote:Thanks. I was just thrown off by the fact that some TV's from the early 2000's are branded Wega, where as others are only have the Trinitron name in that corner.
What makes a Wega a Wega? Arbitrary marketing decision?
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Wega (pronounced "Vega" actually, Sony bought a venerable German brand) just seems to signify a flat front screen. It's a true flat screen - not one of those "glass in front of a turved tube" jobs which are just disgusting (none made by Sony, as far as I know).
If you want the high-end consumer sets, look for XBR. (There are pre-flatscreen XBRs of course, starting in 1983 or so.)
If you want high-end, period, look for large PVMs/BVMs. Not sure if any of these have 1080i above 20" / 24" though.
HD (720p / 1080i) support does not mean that you'll necessarily get lag (I don't know more details about this, unfortunately).
Finally, a 720p tube is actually higher-end (and higher voltage) than a 1080i one. I'd rather game on 720p than 1080i in almost any circumstance.
The pictured set probably uses the BA-6 chassis, even if it's not a KV-27FS120, which is *cue Borat voice* verra naise, how much? Seems very easy to service.
My guess - I don't actually build cables so somebody else should chime in on this - shielding the SNES Multi-Out to SCART end may prove to be more important because the wires run close together there. In a SCART to BNC breakout cable, you've got wires separated by a good physical distance on the BNC side, and they use individual wires that are split as soon as possible.
If you want the high-end consumer sets, look for XBR. (There are pre-flatscreen XBRs of course, starting in 1983 or so.)
If you want high-end, period, look for large PVMs/BVMs. Not sure if any of these have 1080i above 20" / 24" though.
HD (720p / 1080i) support does not mean that you'll necessarily get lag (I don't know more details about this, unfortunately).
Finally, a 720p tube is actually higher-end (and higher voltage) than a 1080i one. I'd rather game on 720p than 1080i in almost any circumstance.
That looks exactly like a KV-27FS120 - one thing here: The flat screens can get some geometry problems, so I hear. Mine certainly has some little geometry issues which I hope to sort out, but overall it's a great tube, and I don't regret spending more than $25 on mine. It hasn't been used continually for years though - at least, it wasn't very dirty inside and didn't seem terribly abused or anything.bobrocks95 wrote:That's definitely one of the 480i ones. Looks like a KV-27FS120 or similar model. Very common and somewhat lower end, but still very nice.
The pictured set probably uses the BA-6 chassis, even if it's not a KV-27FS120, which is *cue Borat voice* verra naise, how much? Seems very easy to service.
Ask Daskrabs here. I think his cables are fine, really. (Also, I meant RGC instead of RGB up above - for Retro Gaming Cables. Muscle memory habits.)BlackStealth08 wrote:Okay thanks. Also must Scart to BNC breakout cable be shielded be as well? If so where can I get a shielded one?Ed Oscuro wrote:Two important notes:
Unless they changed their tune, I wouldn't buy any cables from RGC (they think shielding isn't necessary, last report we heard).
My guess - I don't actually build cables so somebody else should chime in on this - shielding the SNES Multi-Out to SCART end may prove to be more important because the wires run close together there. In a SCART to BNC breakout cable, you've got wires separated by a good physical distance on the BNC side, and they use individual wires that are split as soon as possible.
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I already have a super nice PVM, I just thought I'd pick up a bigger consumer set for an evenutual backup, or when I feel like playing on a bigger screen, and maybe for some two player, two-screen Wipeout 3. This is strictly for old-school gaming, so I want it to be as simple as possible (no HD compatibility, etc), but also include S-video and YPbPr. I used to use one of Sony's 1080i Hi-scan tubes, but it definitely had varying amounts of lag in modes that weren't 1080i.
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bobrocks95
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Hey, let me know if you're able to fix any geometry issues, will ya? I've got bowing along the bottom and some sagging in the top corners I wanted to fix. Tried opening it up and adding some (very poorly) homemade "permalloy assemblies" as I believe Sony calls them in the service manual around the deflection yoke but they didn't help. They're supposed to be for convergence though, I haven't found anything on geometry per se.Ed Oscuro wrote:That looks exactly like a KV-27FS120 - one thing here: The flat screens can get some geometry problems, so I hear. Mine certainly has some little geometry issues which I hope to sort out, but overall it's a great tube, and I don't regret spending more than $25 on mine. It hasn't been used continually for years though - at least, it wasn't very dirty inside and didn't seem terribly abused or anything.
Then you're good, the set should be 480i and have 1 S-Video input and 1, maybe 2 component ones. You can add a SCART to component converter to make it look really nice with any old consoles you want to hook up, and if you have SCART cables already, that will save you from buying S-Video ones.BazookaBen wrote:I already have a super nice PVM, I just thought I'd pick up a bigger consumer set for an evenutual backup, or when I feel like playing on a bigger screen, and maybe for some two player, two-screen Wipeout 3. This is strictly for old-school gaming, so I want it to be as simple as possible (no HD compatibility, etc), but also include S-video and YPbPr. I used to use one of Sony's 1080i Hi-scan tubes, but it definitely had varying amounts of lag in modes that weren't 1080i.
PS1 Disc-Based Game ID BIOS patch for MemCard Pro and SD2PSX automatic VMC switching.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Finally going for a VGA>Component adapter, I gave up on the Kramer FC-14 which I definitely cannot find used anywhere, so my remaining options are;
Crescendo Systems TC1500 (108€ shipped - direct)
Crescendo Systems TC1600 (139€ shipped - direct)
Audio Authority 9A60A (119€ shipped - eBay)
Is there any reason not to pick the cheaper and smaller TC1500 ?
(I will use it with my old XRGBs, a number of old 'VGA' scalers, and my Dreamcast w/vga box)
Crescendo Systems TC1500 (108€ shipped - direct)
Crescendo Systems TC1600 (139€ shipped - direct)
Audio Authority 9A60A (119€ shipped - eBay)
Is there any reason not to pick the cheaper and smaller TC1500 ?
(I will use it with my old XRGBs, a number of old 'VGA' scalers, and my Dreamcast w/vga box)
Strikers1945guy wrote:"Do we....eat chicken balls?!"
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Have you considered the $25 RCA transcoder that's been sitting on ebay.com for some while ?
I only have the RC2200 from Crescendo Systems, but I would imagine that even the small 1500 performs the same (in the other direction of course).
I only have the RC2200 from Crescendo Systems, but I would imagine that even the small 1500 performs the same (in the other direction of course).
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
And here's a cheaper AA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171365405961
And here's an even cheaper one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321440990871
At this price I'd probably pick the NiB AA - especially since shipping through eBay's customs handling system works pretty well.
And here's an even cheaper one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321440990871
At this price I'd probably pick the NiB AA - especially since shipping through eBay's customs handling system works pretty well.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Wow 25$ would be nice but there's a ton of different models available, could you please link to that one ?Fudoh wrote:Have you considered the $25 RCA transcoder that's been sitting on ebay.com for some while ?
Thanks, looks like my EB skills suck. ^^Fudoh wrote:And here's a cheaper AA: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171365405961
And here's an even cheaper one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321440990871
Sure !Fudoh wrote:At this price I'd probably pick the NiB AA - especially since shipping through eBay's customs handling system works pretty well.
Strikers1945guy wrote:"Do we....eat chicken balls?!"
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I meant this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-VHDC300-HDT ... 461aa8515d
There's even one for $10*, but also $30 shipping. The AA is the safest choice.
* http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-HDTV-VGA-Co ... 19ef6804a0
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-VHDC300-HDT ... 461aa8515d
There's even one for $10*, but also $30 shipping. The AA is the safest choice.
* http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-HDTV-VGA-Co ... 19ef6804a0
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I'm curious about the RCA but I've just ordered the nib AA anyway.
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help!

Strikers1945guy wrote:"Do we....eat chicken balls?!"
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BazookaBen
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Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Xyga wrote:I'm curious about the RCA but I've just ordered the nib AA anyway.
Thanks for your help!
Good choice, I made VGA cables for my consoles, so I can hook them up directly to the AA with a VGA cable or directly to my PVM with a BNC cable.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Retrosetup (soon to be)
Consoles - Bandridge 5 way scart switcher - Syncstrike - dvdo edge (none-green) - one cable to AV reciever, one to projector
Will this work with clean sync consoles? (eg super famicom with raw sync cable)? Will the LM1881 pass it through? Or will i have to find another solution for my consoles which do output C-sync?
Consoles - Bandridge 5 way scart switcher - Syncstrike - dvdo edge (none-green) - one cable to AV reciever, one to projector
Will this work with clean sync consoles? (eg super famicom with raw sync cable)? Will the LM1881 pass it through? Or will i have to find another solution for my consoles which do output C-sync?
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
It will work either way and you don't need a stripper at all. The Edge will take composite video (for sync) just as fine.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
Well yes but this provides me with a clean way to split the signal scart -> RGBS . I can solder but seems i can't build decent cables.Fudoh wrote:It will work either way and you don't need a stripper at all. The Edge will take composite video (for sync) just as fine.
Another small question, i managed to win an extron 160i unit very cheap. Will this be of any use in the setup? (the ADSP technology seems usefull but i have read that it does not work with everything)
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
you can use any VGA to BNC breakout cable (eBay, 5 EUR) along with 4 BNC/Cinch adapter plugs on the Edge.Well yes but this provides me with a clean way to split the signal scart -> RGBS . I can solder but seems i can't build decent cables.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
I know, cablewise it will be like this
Scart console - Scart switcher - Scart M - M - Syncstrike - Vga to BNC + adapters for video, cinch for audio - Edge.
Scart console - Scart switcher - Scart M - M - Syncstrike - Vga to BNC + adapters for video, cinch for audio - Edge.
Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
The PS360+ PCB has two outs: a USB and an RJ45. Am I correct that you can run a cable from either to PS3/360 (obviously with there being a USB connector on the other end!)?