Sony PVM issues

[BlackStealth08]

I bought a Sony PVM-1943MD manufactured Nov. 1990.
It will not turn on.

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It was shipped with the box having a huge gash in the side and one of the black handles on the front panel is missing.

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Before, This is the image I was emailed before it was shipped to me.


After:


The rest of it looks alright. This is with the cover taken off.

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Anyways that is not the real issue. What is wrong is a circuit board located in the back right has been cracked into 4 pieces.

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This is how it looked when I first opened it


I fit the two pieces back together

I am not familiar with the hardware of PVM/BVM monitors so I apologize if the terms I use are incorrect or seem unintelligent, please do correct me.

The black thing is what from I can gather focuses the monitor. It has a tiny knob on it and it says focus with 509-11 0H060 2 written under the knob . It has a red tube that connects to a red box which than connects to the CRT. Not 100% what it is exactly is or does.

So what exactly is this red box, and does it contain anything poisonus? I don't want to mess with anything encase I end up breaking it.

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So can anyone please tell me what exactly this broken board is and what it's called because I can't find any information or diagrams of the hardware of this monitor.
Also Is it possible to fix the cracked board?

Sorry for all of the spoilers tried to keep everything neat.

[captnrain]

It's done. You should stop now before you kill yourself with high voltage.

[BlackStealth08]

So it is impossible to replace the cracked board?
I figured I could just get a replacement and solder the black focus device to it and be good as new.
What exactly is this board? I really would like more information. I spent too much money on this to just throw it away.

[captnrain]

thats part of the high voltage flyback transformer circuit. you can maybe replace it. you can maybe kill yourself with it. you shouldn't have bought it. good luck.

[BlackStealth08]

Thank you for the information.

[22point8]

The part number is 1-632-002-11 (P BOARD), doubt you can find one though, and if you do get a TV repair guy to do it, and evn then it might not work.

[CkRtech]

Sorry about your troubles, BlackStealth08. That is definitely the flyback transformer's board that cracked on you there.

If this was shipped to you and they mishandled it, it is insurance-collecting time (assuming it was insured). I would go that route before trying to repair it - You probably just want to look ahead to a new monitor rather than trying to get that one going again.

As captnrain pointed out, you want to be careful working with that due to the high voltages involved. Basically, you want to discharge the set before working with it. There are various sites out there that talk about it. Arcaderepairtips.com for one.

My guess is that unless you get another one used on the cheap and part it out, "new" replacement parts are going to run you more than the set - assuming you find them.

[BlackStealth08]

Alright then, Thanks for the information and help. I'll see what I can do. Thanks again.

[Ed Oscuro]

Tell the seller about it straight away.

Basically, you want to discharge the set before working with it. There are various sites out there that talk about it. Arcaderepairtips.com for one.

They don't do a very good job of it and I wouldn't follow that procedure.

Instead:
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvsaf.htm (and the following chapters, specifically: http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvscbpait.htm for a more realistic appraisal of the issues, though they are not assuming a smashed flyback board)

Hmm, smashed-up flyback...we don't know when it was last powered up. The auction could have had its pictures taken weeks ago and there is no charge left in anything. I'd be more concerned about the capacitors, but those probably lost all their charge even longer ago. But of course, without a replacement part the question is moot. Since it seems flybacks are one of the components that's most likely to go, I'm not sure this would be worth keeping even for parts, depending on how much it cost you.

[andy251203]

Ouch! Monitor was shipped quite poorly from what I see! If it was my monitor, I would try to repair the broken PCB, but since it's the flyback transformer board, it's a bit more dangerous than other boards on the monitor. BTW, that red block that the flyback wires go to is a discharging block, used to discharge the monitor once it's turned off. Of course, it probably doesn't discharge the CRT 100%, so if you are paranoid about getting zapped, you can still discharge the CRT the old fashioned way.

[BlackStealth08]

Thought I'd just update the situation on the monitor.

I had bought this monitor off ebay. Notice anything?

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The monitor I received is completely different. I talked to the owner. It's pretty much a Liquidation warehouse. He was very apologetic and He is going to refund the full price while letting me keep the monitor. Unfortunately the shipping was uninsured so I still lose $75. Not that ecstatic but it's better than nothing.

I talked to my friends father who is very knowledgeable about electronic hardware, he actually used to work on the Solid Rocket boosters for the space shuttle. Pretty cool guy.
Anyways he told me it's done. Unless I get the exact same part there is no real way to repair it. And even then it's still wouldn't be a 100% guarantee it would work after repairs. So basically what some of you had already told me. I rather not go chasing the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. I'd end up dead before it starts working again.

I just wanted to make sure I talked to a professional in person and checked all my options before taking action. It's sad, I quite like the monitor, every other part is in perfect shape. It's a shame to just destroy it.

So for the time being it's serving as a dead weight table next to my PC. Have to get my $75 out of it somehow. Doubt anyone would want to buy a broken 24 yr. old crt.


I am still beyond confused as to why the ad was incorrect. I fail to even understand how they don't have it in their warehouse at all. I asked the owner if he could just send me the monitor I had purchased and I'd give him back the broken one, checked to see if he had it and didn't. This is exactly what I bought and I got something else completely. The owner did the best he could to correct the problem but still what the hell people.....


Anyways if anyone is selling a Sony PVM-20M2MDU Pro 20" that is fully functional with minimal wear, or something equally as good I may consider buying it for the right price. Thanks for all the help guys.

[CkRtech]

OK. This is NOT WORTH IT, but....

I wonder if desoldering all of the components off of the flyback PCB, scanning both sides of the PCB, loading it in an appropriate application, and sending a fabrication request (as a test shot) to a PCB fab lab (probably Chinese), getting a manufactured replacement, and soldering all of the components back on would....work. lol

[BlackStealth08]

I am quite literally down for anything that does not require an arm and leg or a large sum of money to get it to work. I know it is possible to fix the FBT. I have been wondering if I could re-create the exact same pcb 100% and re-solder the transformer to the newly made pcb & have it work again.

For now I've decided to keep the 1943MD. Want to try and see if I can find the same monitor that is being sold for parts but has an intact FBT and just use the parts I have to get a working PVM. It's not worth getting rid of and I can't really lose anything at this point. So I figure I'll just play it out be patient and see what comes my way.

With technology these days I know it's not impossible to recreate the part.

And I do under stand it is dangerous. But if the monitor is off during the repair what harm is there? I am not desperate but I am damn near it. I am willing to try any sensible means to get it working. I actually got paid last week and I'll get refunded by the end of this week.

I could always use more help and ideas. Thank you.

[bobrocks95]

And I do under stand it is dangerous. But if the monitor is off during the repair what harm is there?

A good bit actually. CRTs can keep their charge for a very long time after being off and even unplugged. The charge left in them CAN KILL YOU- it varies depending on the size of the set and a bunch of other factors, but you must understand the possibility is there, whether it's on or not. You really need to extensively discharge them before doing anything inside, which itself is also a potentially dangerous process.

[BlackStealth08]

It can easily be discharged plus it has been turned off for almost a week now. I have actually fiddled around with it enough that if it were still holding any electricity I'd already be dead no joke. But yes while I may or may not be incredibly stupid I'd like to know where I could get custom built PCB for a decent price. I'm just trying my best to stay optimistic. I don't mind if I end up damaging or shorting any other components, if there is any sliver of hope that it can be fixed I'll take it.

[Legion]

I'll be the first to admit this suggestion is quite the stretch. It may work, it may not, it may kind of work but result in crappy image quality. If you're desperate you can scrape the solder mask off the traces near the break and solder short jumper wires across. Make sure you use larger gauge wires for the larger traces and keep the jumpers as short as possible.

It won't preclude you from having the board recreated if you still want to go that route. If it were me I'd try it, because I'm impatient and... life sucks and then you die?

[BlackStealth08]

I'm not technical enough to do something like that. I would end up breaking the board even more. For now I'm not sure what to do. Just going to play it safe and look around for a cheap PVM. might repair the pcb who knows.

[BlackStealth08]

Finally got around to desoldering the FBT from the board. Don't mind my terrible desoldering job I had to use a shop vac to remove the sodler as it melted cause I had nothing else to use.

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Oh and I ordered a working 1943MD monitor for $25 from a medical facility out in Minnesota. Shipping was $67 but I am quite happy so it's what ever. I'm thinking about keeping this monitor and dissembling it so if anything ever dies on the working one I have spare parts to replace what ever might burn out. Never turns to have spare buttons and BNC ports.

But if I can still get this one working I might as well try.

[Ed Oscuro]

That PCB looks a bit much to enlist PCB repair services for...though possibly somebody could still do it. I like the "get a new board made" route better.

[BlackStealth08]

IT LIVES! after several hours of gluing soldering and some Frankenstein Magic it lives! I just glued the board together and re-soldered the severed connections.

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I think the monitor is out of focus cause the picture looks really bad at the moment but there is no way in hell I am about to mess with that. I had Adventure Running on the screen.

[BlackStealth08]

Oh yeah I did say I bought a 2nd 1943MD. It's in amazing condition.

Have not recieved it yet but it was shipped today.

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[BlackStealth08]

Sorry for all the posting.

So the Flyback is 100% fully functional. Turns out I forgot to plug a grey wire into the FBT, but the picture works very well. Though I am having a issue with getting the picture to show properly. I know for a fact that the FBT is not the problem. I connected my 3DO to the monitor but there seems to be a short or something of the sort with the video inputs. Audio inputs don't have any issues. The screen won't show properly and all of the colors are dull and dark.

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The picture will show up just fine for a few seconds before going to crap again. It's random to be honest. At the very least it shows the picture and doesn't cut out or anything just a connection issue with the video inputs. Anyone know what might be the exact issue?


Thank you all for the help I wouldn't have been able to fix this with out you cool dudes. I literally have near zero experience when it comes to fixing a PCB let a lone a flyback. It was a pain in the ass but I was able to do it.

[22point8]

Try reseating the neck board and make sure all the cables inside the PVM are seated well
Here is the service menu for the 2042/2044QM, I think the 1943 is more similar to the 2042.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_p3a0F ... sp=sharing

[BlackStealth08]

Ah thank you for the service manual it might come in handy. I'll just get out the rubber gloves and mess with it. The only difference that I know of between the 1943MD and 2044QM is the QM has an extra port in the rear. No idea what its for. otherwise they look identical.

It kinda sucks you need it turned on to fix it since you have to see if what you do is working. I'd go so far to say it's more dangerous than fixing the FBT cause at least you don't have to mess with a live monitor.

Oh yeah I thought I'd mention I used gorilla glue on the PCB. That stuff is crazy strong!

[BlackStealth08]

VICTORY IS MINE!
Such a gorgeous picture. It's mirrored cause I took it while looking through a mirror. I reversed it.

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[BlackStealth08]

I forgot to mention that the monitor also came with a TV remote. I have tried everything but nothing seems to get it to work. Fresh batteries inside. It looks like it would go to the monitor but there doesn't appear to be any sensor on the monitor it'self. Does this remote work on this monitor and if so how do I go about getting it to work?

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[patastinky]

VICTORY IS MINE!
Such a gorgeous picture. It's mirrored cause I took it while looking through a mirror. I reversed it.

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Wow! Excellent job man. I am so happy to have come across your thread. Anyone else would have tossed the monitor or parted it out. However you stuck with it and brought it back from the dead. Did you ever find out what the RED box was for? I was hoping to find some more information about what the red box is; that's how i came across your thread (google search for RED BOX PVM). At anyrate, how's the monitor doing after all this time?

[Unseen]

Did you ever find out what the RED box was for?

That should be the high-voltage regulator.

[Ed Oscuro]

This was quite an amazing story - not sure how well the board will survive long-term use being glued together, though. Certainly would be scared to move it about, myself.

[BlackStealth08]

This was quite an amazing story - not sure how well the board will survive long-term use being glued together, though. Certainly would be scared to move it about, myself.

Thanks, it was a good learning experience. I used Gorilla Glue man that'll last forever.

But yeah it worked great. But it's always good to be careful with it regardless. I ended up giving it away to a friend cause the guy I bought it from shipped me the wrong model that was advertised so he game me a full refund, I was quite happy with that. He was a nice person in the end and apologized for everything. But my Friend I gave it to was looking into getting a pvm anyways. I bought another PVM of the same make and model from some medical warehouse in Wisconsin. was $90 shipped. Great deal too works like a dream.

Heres Super Paper Mario on S-Video.
http://i.imgur.com/yOIhBis.jpg

Super Metroid
http://i.imgur.com/pkU365r.jpg

Again thanks for all the help and stuff. This forum is a god send lol. Peace out!