SNES MINI RGB Mod Help. (Should Be Simple Enough)

[lettuce]

Ok so i got a SNES Mini today and decided to carry out the simple RGB mod on the system. Upon completing the mod i get audio but no display, here a pic of the install....



Im using 75ohm resistors....



Purple, Green, Black, Copper and Brown

and original tried the mod without the orange sync wire and then with but still got the same issue. Im using the SNES mini in conjunction with an XRGB-Mini, the 'Input' light on the XRGB lights up when i turn the SNES on but all i get is a black screen with audio, so the XRGB is receiving some sort of signal form the SNES.

I also initally tested the SNES Mini with a composite cable and was getting a display fine, have tired it after the mod with the composite cable and i still get a display so nothing has been damaged. The scart cable im using is a RAW sync cable from the eBay seller retro_console_accessories.

The only thing i can think of is it is the resistors im using and the display has become too dark to see?, this should be a simple and straight forward mod but it causing me headaches, any ideas??

[Fudoh]

I'm pretty sure you need a RGB amp on the SNES mini.

[lettuce]

I'm pretty sure you need a RGB amp on the SNES mini.

Nah you can do the mod without, its only the new mod method that has the amp

[ApolloBoy]

I'm pretty sure you need a RGB amp on the SNES mini.

No, that's only if you're tapping from the RGB signals straight from the PPU.

[airs]

Sounds like a no sync problem. Does the cable have pin 3 on the AV Multiout wired to Composite video on the SCART end?

Try using a multimeter to check each pin on the scart end for continuity and then for voltage with the console turned on.

[lettuce]

Sounds like a no sync problem. Does the cable have pin 3 on the AV Multiout wired to Composite video on the SCART end?

Try using a multimeter to check each pin on the scart end for continuity and then for voltage with the console turned on.

Well the scart works on both my NTSC standard SNES and NTSC RGB modded N64 consoles

[airs]

I would verify that it routes av multi out pin 3 to composite video on scart

[lettuce]

I have the wrong resistors....



Purple, Green, Black, Red and Brown

7,5,0, x100, +1%

So im actually using 750ohm resistors not 75ohm, would explain the black screen i guess. Will teach me to only read the label on the bag and not actually check the contents

[airs]

I have the wrong resistors....
Purple, Green, Black, Red and Brown

7,5,0, x100, +1%

So im actually using 750ohm resistors not 75k, would explain the black screen i guess. Will teach me to only read the label on the bag and not actually check the contents

Ha, oops. Btw, you mean 75ohm not 75k ohm right?

[lettuce]

I have the wrong resistors....
Purple, Green, Black, Red and Brown

7,5,0, x100, +1%

So im actually using 750ohm resistors not 75k, would explain the black screen i guess. Will teach me to only read the label on the bag and not actually check the contents

Ha, oops. Btw, you mean 75ohm not 75k ohm right?

Right

[lettuce]

YEAH all sorted now!!!!! SNES MINI now RGB modded, i used 68ohm resistors!. Pictures captured with SNES MINI going through the XRGB-Mini....

[lettuce]

Any suggestion how to best deal with that 'Blistering' on the top of the case, i know im not going to be able make it look like new, but if i could reduce the appearance of it would be great. I was think about getting some super fine wet and dry sand paper and giving it a go??

[Ed Oscuro]

Acetone will make the plastic pliable, but probably it needs to go through the full thickness, and then you're likely going to widen the affected area, as I discovered when fixing a crack in an original SNES case. And you'd need a patterned piece to make that area start to look like the original. It's probably going to remain ugly.

Just out of curiosity, did it come that way? I've seen a GB Pocket with a similar problem on its front case.

[lettuce]

Yeah, i received it that way, only paid £40 delivered so cant complain too much, just be nice to make it less visible you know.

I guess i could sand it down and make it look out of place with that area being smooth, and then maybe spray paint the whole system a different colour........or though that might be sacrilege!?

[Ed Oscuro]

Well, my real concerns there are that you'd be making the case more susceptible to damage from a thin spot. I've already had full-thickness SNES plastic go brittle and break on me, so something pushed out like that (and that actually looks pushed very far out) is going to reduce the thickness considerably.

Acetone in the right place will do more or less the right thing but of course you will want to have something ready so that it doesn't sag into the case. You also will want to tape off areas you don't want to use the acetone on. The plus side is that the acetone should return the plastic close to its original strength.

While you're doing that you might as well consider getting some UV spray paint to coat it, keeping it as fresh as possible and blocking oxygen (both oxygen and UV might damage the plastic in a SNES). That said the Mini models seem to weather aging better than original SNES units.

[lettuce]

Luckly we have shed loads of Acetone at work, so what im i trying to do, pour it on to the infected area or brush it on with a paint brush, how quickly does it eat away at the plastic?

[Ed Oscuro]

Paint it on. I used a q-tip, myself; not sure if it won't dissolve paint brushes.

It's somewhat slow acting, so you don't have to worry about it falling through right before your eyes, and you can be deliberate in your actions. You just want to make sure not to get it on stuff you don't want to melt. I guess the main question is whether it will get far enough into the plastic to actually warp the bottom which you also want to settle. You know, I suppose you could scrape or sand away some plastic along the top, and then use acetone to weld it again to the underside of the case, if the acetone doesn't penetrate far enough.

One good thing about the acetone is that once it's dried out, it just leaves the plastic in place. However I have read some people stating that their balls of dissolved ABS stay kind of squishy for a long time, so be careful about having huge lumps of the stuff dissolved right in the acetone.

[Einzelherz]

With acetone you want to do some testing first. Depending on the density of the plastic it may severely affect the case in ways you don't want (i.e. remaining soft/squishy). Work on just one area at first to make sure you understand how it's going to affect the plastic.

[lettuce]

With acetone you want to do some testing first. Depending on the density of the plastic it may severely affect the case in ways you don't want (i.e. remaining soft/squishy). Work on just one area at first to make sure you understand how it's going to affect the plastic.

Yeah might have to look at some YT vids (if there is any about) on ways to treat plastic.

Ill be using Q Tips as suggested above and completely tapping of the area with masking tap. So over the space of 30 minutes i should start to notice a difference??

[Ed Oscuro]

The plastic should be substantially the same formula as the one I used - probably they just got the mix down better to prevent discoloration from molecule migration.

And what I saw was that it melted enough to make a solid joint, but not much more, and it did this quickly. But yeah, in trying to migrate all that plastic back down it might be a problem. But again this depends on the thickness of the bump. Hence I suggested shaving bits off and applying them to the bottom as a possibility - let me be clear that you're not likely going to be able to just pour acetone on and have the bump slowly sag back into the case that way, because the acetone doesn't seem likely to penetrate far enough, and if it does wet all the way through, you'll have a drying problem if you try to apply it as it is. However, I'd apply the melted plastic in little layers so it actually does dry out. But this would be an involved process and puts you at more risk from the acetone vapors.

I suppose another, probably better, option is actual heating of the plastic. Since this is a thermoplastic plastic, and not a thermoset plastic, it should be fine if you don't singe it.

[lettuce]

The plastic should be substantially the same formula as the one I used - probably they just got the mix down better to prevent discoloration from molecule migration.

And what I saw was that it melted enough to make a solid joint, but not much more, and it did this quickly. But yeah, in trying to migrate all that plastic back down it might be a problem. But again this depends on the thickness of the bump. Hence I suggested shaving bits off and applying them to the bottom as a possibility - let me be clear that you're not likely going to be able to just pour acetone on and have the bump slowly sag back into the case that way, because the acetone doesn't seem likely to penetrate far enough, and if it does wet all the way through, you'll have a drying problem if you try to apply it as it is. However, I'd apply the melted plastic in little layers so it actually does dry out. But this would be an involved process and puts you at more risk from the acetone vapors.

I suppose another, probably better, option is actual heating of the plastic. Since this is a thermoplastic plastic, and not a thermoset plastic, it should be fine if you don't singe it.

Well there no actual crack in the in the case at all, it looks like something was melted on to it, the underside of the case on the effected area is completely fine with no defects at all....



Thats why i originally suggested just sanding that area flat

[Ed Oscuro]

That does look really flat. Maybe you should just sand it then.

[blizzz]

Get a big Yoshi sticker. That's how we solved stuff like that in the 90's

[lettuce]

Get a big Yoshi sticker. That's how we solved stuff like that in the 90's

Fuck Yoshi, Waluigi!!

Still want to know what the heck caused it!

[lettuce]

Slightly different question, can Acetone be used to remove marks from console plastics if a cotton bud was dabbed in the Acetone then wiped across the effected area, or would it just eat the plastic?.

[shmuppyLove]

Slightly different question, can Acetone be used to remove marks from console plastics if a cotton bud was dabbed in the Acetone then wiped across the effected area, or would it just eat the plastic?.

Magic Eraser has worked miracles cleaning hard plastics for me. Also has a nice scent

[lettuce]

Slightly different question, can Acetone be used to remove marks from console plastics if a cotton bud was dabbed in the Acetone then wiped across the effected area, or would it just eat the plastic?.

Magic Eraser has worked miracles cleaning hard plastics for me. Also has a nice scent

Magic eraser??......

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jml-50200447702 ... B00097ECGM

this?

[mickcris]

Slightly different question, can Acetone be used to remove marks from console plastics if a cotton bud was dabbed in the Acetone then wiped across the effected area, or would it just eat the plastic?.

Magic Eraser has worked miracles cleaning hard plastics for me. Also has a nice scent

Magic eraser??......

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Jml-50200447702 ... B00097ECGM

this?

That looks right. They are branded Mr Clean in the US. I would the generics from china, as they are way cheaper, if you aren't in a hurry:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ERASER-CLEANER- ... 00EWDKGRS/

[Monstermug]

Couldn't you just buy a cheap faulty one on ebay and swap the case and keep the rest for spare parts?