
As mentioned 31khz works fine, while 15khz doesn't.
you tried both B0 and B1 and disabled the vsync ?Still no picture on 15khz from the X68000, through the VGA input
Yup, use my X-Select to transcode 480i to 15khz all the time.slk486 wrote:I assume the VGA input on the XRGB-3 is confirmed to work in 15khz normally?
If you're playing on a softmodded PS2 you can use GSM to force 240p with original PS1 games. If you have a modchip installed it'll work with backups as well. Some games aren't compatible with certain modes.austin532 wrote:The main reason why I would want one is for the quick resolution change between Progressive and Interlaced and the next to little lag. It gets a little annoying after awhile when playing PS1 games using the Mini.
Here it is; http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 1&start=30Fudoh wrote:Depends on the field you hit when switching. The XRGB-2 is faster. In another thread we had a XRGB-2/DVDO <> XRGB-3/DVDO <> Framemeister comparison.....
Strikers1945guy wrote:"Do we....eat chicken balls?!"
Strikers1945guy wrote:"Do we....eat chicken balls?!"
As always remember that doesn't work in a lot of cases, XRGB3 is well known for it's poor compatibility.I would say, IF you wan to add another XRGB, either a 2 or 3 along with a VGA to HDMI converter (if you don't have VGA anymore) is fine.
Using what? The XRGB 3 or the Mini?brownvim wrote:I don't remember the switch taking that long, when I played Dino Crisis on PS1 the switch is like a second?
I will check again today, maybe it's just been a while.
A lot of those effects only work properly when using composite too, but I doubt you want to go back to thatCall me crazy but sharper is not necessarily better. Many older games use checkerboard and dithering effects to create transparency or shadows when viewed on a CRT and help give objects such as pillars or metal a more rounded or shiny effect. When viewed on the Mini objects often look blocky and flat even with scanlines on.