Questions that do not deserve a thread

[Ed Oscuro]

I know that, but your question is confusingly worded. Did you make sure that the SCART plug is actually wired up only for RGB, and carrying RGB, and not S-Video?

Component and RGB will be very similar (if not apparently identical most of the time) but S-Video will be worse. Maybe it's not immediately evident or something. A good test is text: Text should be very sharp in RGB or component, but S-Video will still have some issues. Look for color bleeding on the edges of solid colors (i.e., the difference between screens 3 and 4 in this post).

You better not be trying to plug RGB into that JVC monitor, at that...

[LEGENOARYNINLIA]

Both my S-video cable and my RGB Scart cable are official Sony cables. And I am very aware of the differences between the signals.

What I want to know is how the PS3 handles these signals. For example, is it supplying different amounts of chroma between the two settings? Or is it applying some filtering? Etc.

By using the S-video cable I've already received a sharp and bright image with both settings. On my JVC monitor.

[Ed Oscuro]

I'm still possibly confused, but had a look at this which suggests your question more clearly. My basic reaction is to state that S-video has been standardized for a long time and you should, as the manual suggests, simply select the output type you are using.

My second reaction is to wonder why s-video and composite are lumped together there.

So your question is a good one - unfortunately, if there is any difference, it is probably some Sony voodoo that is only known to whoever programmed this into the system.

That being said, I can't fathom what kind of differences there could be between selecting composite and S-Video, component, or RGB. These signals are all generated from the same RGB data internally, using very, very old methods that are basically based on subtraction (or multiplexing, in the case of composite); there probably isn't anything you can do to get past the limiting nature of each signal.

Finally, I would just say that if nothing has exploded yet, you're definitely free to try experimenting to see if an alternate selection works best.

[BazookaBen]

Is there any difference in the SD signals on a PS3? For some reason I get the same results by using an official Sony PS3 S-video cable no matter if the console is set to Composite/S-video or RGB scart. Just curious if someone knows anything about this.

No. If you select any of the SD options it just sends all the analog signals at once, so it doesn't matter how you have it hooked up.

[Ed Oscuro]

Thanks for clearing that up, cheers!

[BareKnuckleRoo]

Does anyone with one of those Madcatz WWE Xbox 360 sticks have a list of which cable colour corresponds to which button? I opened mine up to mod it and remove the horrendous artwork, I had a list written down of which wire colour goes with each button, and then I derped and lost the list, so if someone has that info handy that'd save me the time of manually figuring out which wires go to which button when I'm done and put it back together. X_x

[LEGENOARYNINLIA]

No. If you select any of the SD options it just sends all the analog signals at once, so it doesn't matter how you have it hooked up.

Interesting! Thanks!

[emphatic]

Does anyone with one of those Madcatz WWE Xbox 360 sticks have a list of which cable colour corresponds to which button? I opened mine up to mod it and remove the horrendous artwork, I had a list written down of which wire colour goes with each button, and then I derped and lost the list, so if someone has that info handy that'd save me the time of manually figuring out which wires go to which button when I'm done and put it back together. X_x

Hook it up to a computer an open the Joystick configuration in settings (at least in Windows this is easy). A quick way to find out.

[beatsgo]

Does anyone with one of those Madcatz WWE Xbox 360 sticks have a list of which cable colour corresponds to which button? I opened mine up to mod it and remove the horrendous artwork, I had a list written down of which wire colour goes with each button, and then I derped and lost the list, so if someone has that info handy that'd save me the time of manually figuring out which wires go to which button when I'm done and put it back together. X_x

Hook it up to a computer an open the Joystick configuration in settings (at least in Windows this is easy). A quick way to find out.

What's great about this is you can compare the button inputs from a normal xbox 360 controller to the joystick since they use the same microsoft driver, unless you're using a custom driver such as xbox360c sai or xpadder.

Is there any difference in the SD signals on a PS3? For some reason I get the same results by using an official Sony PS3 S-video cable no matter if the console is set to Composite/S-video or RGB scart. Just curious if someone knows anything about this.

No. If you select any of the SD options it just sends all the analog signals at once, so it doesn't matter how you have it hooked up.

That makes a lot more sense.

[japtor]

Does anyone with one of those Madcatz WWE Xbox 360 sticks have a list of which cable colour corresponds to which button? I opened mine up to mod it and remove the horrendous artwork, I had a list written down of which wire colour goes with each button, and then I derped and lost the list, so if someone has that info handy that'd save me the time of manually figuring out which wires go to which button when I'm done and put it back together. X_x

I have the SF4 version and I think there's molded labels as part of the barrier strip if you look closely. Looking up pictures online it looks similar in the WWE one.

[Ojousama]

Is it possible to get XRGB1-like output out of an Extron Andora? (ie: True 60fps)

From what I understand, it does 240p->480p by putting two 240p frames in one image. If there's a red flashing effect in say, Samurai Shodown, it'll just show red and black stripes.

To fix the Extron Andora, it would have to be either a mod, or a converter that would shuffle the lines of a 240p signal, which would go into the Extron and then a SLG3000.

[mchay]

So, I got my hands on a free SONY KX-2920QM monitor, but this came without the remote.

Any ideas as to which remote I should be looking for?

[mchay]

Looks like the chassis is AE-2A, which uses the RM-831 remote.

Does anyone know if the RM-816 use the same codes, and therefore is interchangeable with the above mentioned?

[Fudoh]

should work just fine. The Sony codes haven't changed. You can still use almost any old CRT remote on a new HDTV set.

[mchay]

Okay, I will give it a go then . Most important feature is the ability to get to the service menu so I can tweak it to get the optimal out of the monitor.

[Jademalo]

Hey, I'm looking for a quick and easy answer to this;

I'm planning on getting a EUR SCART to RGBs BNC cable with a built in Sync Stripper. Will there be any detriment If I pass a clean sync through the stripper, or will that be fine?
It's almost impossible to get clean sync on all of my consoles, but a few do have it. Since I don't really want to have to swap out the cable going to the monitor nor do I want multiple strippers from the individual console feeds to the switch, I'd like to know if that's viable.

Thanks

[leonk]

Hey, I'm looking for a quick and easy answer to this;

I'm planning on getting a EUR SCART to RGBs BNC cable with a built in Sync Stripper. Will there be any detriment If I pass a clean sync through the stripper, or will that be fine?
It's almost impossible to get clean sync on all of my consoles, but a few do have it. Since I don't really want to have to swap out the cable going to the monitor nor do I want multiple strippers from the individual console feeds to the switch, I'd like to know if that's viable.

Thanks

If I were in your position, I would reconsider the setup. Why not have multiple SCART cables and a SCART switcher? The way you want to use your setup is equivalent to having 1 HDMI cable and moving it between xbox, ps3, Apple TV, etc as you need it. See the problem?

[Jademalo]

If I were in your position, I would reconsider the setup. Why not have multiple SCART cables and a SCART switcher? The way you want to use your setup is equivalent to having 1 HDMI cable and moving it between xbox, ps3, Apple TV, etc as you need it. See the problem?

That's what I'm trying to avoid.
The setup will be a shinybow 6:2, one going into a bvm and the other into an xrgb-mini. Afaik, the BVMs require clean composite sync, so I would need to strip 3 of my consoles.
However, not all consoles would need to be stripped. What I'm wanting to know is if it's fine to use a sync stripper between the switcher and the bvm, or whether I would have to use 3 of them to strip each console that needs it before the switch. I've heard the xrgb-mini no longer needs stripping, so I figure if it's fine to run a clan sync through a stripper then it would be much more convenient to have the stripper directly before the bvm.

[Ed Oscuro]

Afaik, the BVMs require clean composite sync, so I would need to strip 3 of my consoles.

I think not:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 6&start=90

[Jademalo]

Afaik, the BVMs require clean composite sync, so I would need to strip 3 of my consoles.

I think not:
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 6&start=90

Oh fantastic, that's perfect!
On the ode to old hardware, I'm sure it was mentioned clean sync was required, and googling turned up absolutely nothing. That solves my problem entirely, thank you!

(Fudoh, if you see this, it may be worth clarifying it in the original post about the BVM-20F1 since if composite video sync being fine is the case then it's wrong in that post.)

[Fudoh]

it was corrected a few posts down after the initial posting...

[Jademalo]

It was? I've just had a scan though the original and there didn't seem to be a clear answer.
Never mind, I'm not so worried as I was, if anything has trouble I can always strip it in the future.

Thanks!

[bobrocks95]

Has anybody used this particular Dreamcast VGA cable? http://www.amazon.com/Tomee-Sega-VGA-Ca ... _1?ie=UTF8

I'm getting huge horizontal streaks across my entire screen in any high contrast spots (Any HUD, any menu where your selection is highlighted in any way, the Dreamcast startup screen). I thought it was my TV at first, but after testing another monitor and source I've determined that it's either the cable or the Dreamcast, and since this is the cheapest cable I could find and the Dreamcast is very lightly used, I'm guessing it's the cable and it's got really crappy shielding. Or does someone else have one and I just got a dud?

[BazookaBen]

since this is the cheapest cable I could find and the Dreamcast is very lightly used, I'm guessing it's the cable and it's got really crappy shielding. Or does someone else have one and I just got a dud?

It looks really thin. That means the 6 internal wires for RGBHV and Ground must be really, really thin. The streaks sound like what's know as "ringing", and bad cables can certainly make that worse.

The cool thing about the VGA box is that you can pick whatever length or thickness of VGA cable you need. So I would recommend one of those, then go to any Goodwill and buy the thickest VGA cable you see for $2.

[Xyga]

Could someone please tell me the exact diagonal size (inches or cm) of the actual displayed picture on a japanese cab's 29" crt tube like the one is NACs or Egre IIs ?
I mean from corner to corner of a completely filled up screen, without including the tube's black borders of course.

Yeah it says 29" but from what I've seen on consumer TVs it is often a rounded figure, and I always forget to bring an extensible ruler whenever I visit a bud who owns a cab. ^^
I've asked that question already but for some reason I could never get a precise answer, and the technical documentation from the manufacturers don't have that kind of information...

[Fudoh]

should be around 27", but I'm interested in an actual reading as well.

[emphatic]

Check the label on the back, if the number starts with A68XXXXXXXX then the tube is a 29". AFAIK, 68 is the diagonal size in cm.

[Xyga]

Yup 68cm / 27" makes sense, thanks.

Which means current 32" 16:9 tvs and monitors are the closest thing for displaying a japanese cab-sized letterboxed 4:3 image.

Although we pretty much all knew that already I needed confirmation, because for a moment I was thinking maybe a 37" tv might be good, but at about 77 cm it is indeed too large (vs a little bit smaller for a 32").

[Fudoh]

If you run underscanned signals (e.g. 224 lines on a 240p signal), the 4:3 area on a 37" LCD is the same as on a CRT with 28" visible area. On a 32" model without underscan compensation you usually end up missing an inch in height and width compared to a 27" CRT.

[Xyga]

Yes that is something to consider.

37" tvs though have almost completely disappeared from the market and aren't reviewed anymore.
The LG 37LN540B can still be found new, it should have about 28ms of input lag like the other LN series, and most probably a direct-lit S-IPS panel.
EDIT: crap i'ts not even full hd so there's no way.

Still, I am not really considering buying a 37", 'yokotate' on a 42" should be almost the same size as a tated 27" 4:3 display.