NESRGB board available now

[keropi]

I recently gutted an HDMI cable with a bad connector , it was a thick one from ebay.
To my surprise the cable had inside:
4x pairs of individually shielded wires , each pair with it's own shielding tin foil (or whatever this paper-like tin stuff is) and a non-coated wire to connect to ground
7x normal wires
all of them shielded again in the main cable

Now, all these wires are single core thin ones. I think they are copper as well, judging from the color.
Do you think such a cable will be fine for making other RGB cables?
It would be really great, you can route audio and RGB signals inside the individually shielded or route RGB + SYNC in the 4 pairs, one for each signal and leave audio/vcc outside... should provide some hefty signal insulation.

[Zer0-2k11]

Sorry to hear about your Hakko. I have no experience with one myself, but I just bought an Aoyue 701A++ soldering station with desoldering gun, which works really well. As said, I have nothing to compare it against, but it's better than a manuel solder sucker, thats for sure

It's alright, hopefully i get around to sending it back to Hakko soon or if not sell it to someone who would know how to fix it.

Sounds promising , i just got my Aoyue 474A++ yesterday but the vacuum cap was broken right out of the box but SRA really took the responsibility and is sending a replacement.
As long as it works after the replacement, im happy. When i used the 808, i looked at my soldering pump and wanted to snap it in 2 lol. I'll be sure to let everyone know how well it works in comparison to the 808 when i get this Aoyue going. The grip to tip ratio is amazing too, feels like i'll have more control when using it.

Gametechus, you should try to do a start to finish vid on the installation on the NESRGB. It would be really awesome to see.

[lettuce]

Why do you have three cut-off wires in the middle of your wire bundle?

I would have ran the wires in such a way that it doesn't block the JTAG port for the FPGA blaster. The wires also run right over the RGB caps that people typically remove. Would be hard to do it after the fact due to the wires.

You do have a nice sharp camera that focuses well in macro mode.

The wire arent glue down or anything and can easily be move. Why do people remove the RGB caps??

Regarding the camera that was my HTC ONE mobile

[Konsolkongen]

I'll be sure to let everyone know how well it works in comparison to the 808 when i get this Aoyue going. The grip to tip ratio is amazing too, feels like i'll have more control when using it.

Please do

[ApolloBoy]

Why do people remove the RGB caps??

Because the SNES SCART cable already has them and leaving them on might cause issues with certain setups. I kinda figured you would know that by now...

[narunetto]

I just got my AV Famicom with an NESRGB installed from Jason and damn this thing is amazing and I haven't even hooked it up to RGB yet since I don't have cables for my PVM yet.

[sazyario]

Just got my Hakko 808 from good ol' amazon.

Time to sit down and read the directions. My first question is why isn't thereca hole at the end of the desoldering tip.

Edit
Looks like Hakko sealed the end of the top with solder. Weird.

[andykara2003]

Hi - I'm looking for an expert modder in the UK to install a couple of Viletim's upcoming N64 DACs into NTSC N64's. The mod won't anywhere near as simple as a typical straightforward RGB console mod (if his NESRGB is anything to go by) but I'll pay good money to someone who is well experienced with electronics and modding in general.

Cheers

[eightbitminiboss]

Just got my Hakko 808 from good ol' amazon.

Time to sit down and read the directions. My first question is why isn't thereca hole at the end of the desoldering tip.

Edit
Looks like Hakko sealed the end of the top with solder. Weird.

That's normal to prevent corrosion on new irons.

[mvsfan]

Hi - I'm looking for an expert modder in the UK to install a couple of Viletim's upcoming N64 DACs into NTSC N64's. The mod won't anywhere near as simple as a typical straightforward RGB console mod (if his NESRGB is anything to go by) but I'll pay good money to someone who is well experienced with electronics and modding in general.

Cheers

im curious what will be the benefits of this mod over just modding an early n64 with an rgb amp and a few resistors?

[ApolloBoy]

im curious what will be the benefits of this mod over just modding an early n64 with an rgb amp and a few resistors?

Well for one thing you can add it to any N64, not just the early RGB-capable models.

[andykara2003]

im curious what will be the benefits of this mod over just modding an early n64 with an rgb amp and a few resistors?

Well for one thing you can add it to any N64, not just the early RGB-capable models.

Hi Apolloboy - Having done a brief search, you seem to be a very good modder. It was my understanding from past research that Viletim's DAC would have a better quality output than a straightforward RGB mod - am I wrong about this? Am I right in saying that the NESRGB mod is better than straight RGB?

[Arasoi]

.

[ApolloBoy]

Am I right in saying that the NESRGB mod is better than straight RGB?

I think you're confused, mvsfan wasn't talking about the NESRGB. Tim's been working on an N64 mod for a while now and he's supposedly going to release it before too long.

[andykara2003]

Am I right in saying that the NESRGB mod is better than straight RGB?

I think you're confused, mvsfan wasn't talking about the NESRGB. Tim's been working on an N64 mod for a while now and he's supposedly going to release it before too long.

Hi - no the N64 mod is the one I'm talking about - I'm hoping it'll be better quality than a normal N64 mod with a THS7314 amp chip. I was thinking that if the NESRGB is a lot better than an RGB mod then the Tim's N64 DAC might be too - what do you guys think?

[darcagn]

Am I right in saying that the NESRGB mod is better than straight RGB?

I think you're confused, mvsfan wasn't talking about the NESRGB. Tim's been working on an N64 mod for a while now and he's supposedly going to release it before too long.

Hi - no the N64 mod is the one I'm talking about - I'm hoping it'll be better quality than a normal N64 mod with a THS7314 amp chip. I was thinking that if the NESRGB is better than an RGB mod then the Tim's N64 DAC might be too.

There's already a kit out there in existence that allows you to have RGB-out on any N64, but the quality of the native N64 RGB is better. But who knows what Tim's will look like until it's finalized and comparisons come out.

[sazyario]

Can you guys offer some critique?
I feel like this is very presentable for purchase.
This is also how I plan on modding customer consoles.

[leonk]

looks clean. can you us the back (AV port / switch selected)?

[sazyario]

[Pasky]

Holy shit, thumbnails please.

[sazyario]

Holy shit, thumbnails please.

I wish image shack was still free.
Imgur sucks.

[Pasky]

Don't blame imgur for your ignorance.

Just set the img link tag to http://i.imgur.com/raHzHIdl.jpg

[ApolloBoy]

Pretty good, that's about the same quality of work that I perform. I would suggest that you have wire bundles instead of ribbons; just peel the wires apart, braid them and use small tubes of heat shrink to keep them together. It cuts down on wire clutter considerably and makes the system a little easier to reassemble.

However I solder wires directly to the multiout instead of using the pin headers Helder provides, that way I don't have to cut up the heat sink. I'm also not sure why you used very thin wires for the audio portion and why they're soldered directly to the NESRGB instead of being crimped into a connector.

[Pasky]

Do you really have to cut up the heat sink like that to use one of those multi outs =/?

[sazyario]

Do you really have to cut up the heat sink like that to use one of those multi outs =/?

If you use the straigh pin headers that helder provides.
But you dont lose any cooling capacity. By the time the heat radiates that far its pretty much dissipated.
Plus I put Thermal Paste on my 7805s

Pretty good, that's about the same quality of work that I perform. I would suggest that you have wire bundles instead of ribbons; just peel the wires apart, braid them and use small tubes of heat shrink to keep them together. It cuts down on wire clutter considerably and makes the system a little easier to reassemble.

However I solder wires directly to the multiout instead of using the pin headers Helder provides, that way I don't have to cut up the heat sink. I'm also not sure why you used very thin wires for the audio portion and why they're soldered directly to the NESRGB instead of being crimped into a connector.

30 gauge kynar wire.
Its temporary. The buyer may want the "stereo" separation.
I dont intend to ship with the kynar connected.

You would suggest splitting off the ribbon? I agree it would be easier to manage. (Especially on Tim's MiniDIN solution)
My personal NES is using Tim's NESRGB and keeping the ribbon intact made wire management more difficult.
What size heat shrink tubing do you use? I have a little multi pack I picked up from RatShack a while ago. Doesn't include sizes on the package though.

[Pasky]

The heat sink on the NES2 is overkill, it's not the thermal dissipation I was concerned with. It just looks like a giant chunk to take out and quite bothersome. Not to mention the colors on those 3D printed multi outs are =/.

[sazyario]

The heat sink on the NES2 is overkill, it's not the thermal dissipation I was concerned with. It just looks like a giant chunk to take out and quite bothersome. Not to mention the colors on those 3D printed multi outs are =/.

It was easy. I used regular diagonal cutters and filed the edges some.
The ?aluminum? is very soft. Not hard at all. Also, there was what looked like a 'seam' when doing the long horizontal cut. I could basically apply pressure and slightly peel/pull.

EDIT

Yes, the color isn't right. Its pure white. Apparently vinyl die works well on the type of plastic that was used to 3d print these.

EDIT2

On the subject of pin headers on the multi out. I have double row 90 degree pin headers. They wont work. The multi out is too long, and the pin headers are too long and the ribbon w/ connector is too long.

[lettuce]

Ok have been using a massive roll of solder that my father gave me about 10 years ago and he had it himself sometime as well so god know how old it was, this stuff was truly awesome and easy to work but has now run out. I have gotten some basic 60/40 solder and its absolutely bollocks, i have notice that all solder these days is lead-free...and thats where the problem lies!?

What is the best type of solder to get for work on retro system etc??

[Zer0-2k11]

Ok have been using a massive roll of solder that my father gave me about 10 years ago and he had it himself sometime as well so god know how old it was, this stuff was truly awesome and easy to work but has now run out. I have gotten some basic 60/40 solder and its absolutely bollocks, i have notice that all solder these days is lead-free...and thats where the problem lies!?

What is the best type of solder to get for work on retro system etc??

I use this stuff here: http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-search ... =82-117-ND . Leaded and works great. I use this stuff for PS2's and a like

You may want to go up 1 step in diameter though, it is really thin.

[leonk]

Ok have been using a massive roll of solder that my father gave me about 10 years ago and he had it himself sometime as well so god know how old it was, this stuff was truly awesome and easy to work but has now run out. I have gotten some basic 60/40 solder and its absolutely bollocks, i have notice that all solder these days is lead-free...and thats where the problem lies!?

What is the best type of solder to get for work on retro system etc??

Good electronic supply stores will still stock 60/40 solder. I buy mine by the 1/4 lb.