shmups.system11.org

BA-5D Chassis Mod

Below is the details on the BA-5D Chassis Mod. This mod is EXTREMELY easy to do, and uses all exposed top side jumpers and pins!

Note: I modded mine for use with a PC and Groovymame. From what I understand a lot of consoles output CSYNC. You can skip the HSync and VSync part of the mod, and just attach CSync to Video input 1)


Step 1 - Remove SMD Resistors
Remove R020, R022, and R024 from bottom side of board (located between the pins of IC001)
Do a better job than I did.


Step 2- Wire up RGB mod circuit
Made up a board that takes RGB , GND, hsync and vsync in (Bottom of image).
RGB all get 75ohm to GND and 750 ohm in-line.
H and V Sync get 1K in-line then mixed.

Note: you can do this without a prototype board and just using wires and resistors.... but it gets a little ugly

On the top of the image, you can see GND, RGB, and CSync out.


Step 3 - Wire up VGA and Blanking Switch
Wired up VGA and Blanking Switch to rear panel.
VGA Pin1 - Red
VGA Pin2 - Green
VGA Pin3 - Blue
VGS Pin5 - GND
VGA Pin 13 - HSync
VGA Pin 14 - VSync

The CSync from the MOD board output gets wired to an RCA cable and fed in through Video 1.
For the blanking switch, attach two wires to an SPST switch, and add a 2200 ohm resistor inline on the wire on the outside leg of the switch.


Step 4- Attach the 5V lead from the switch to the 5V jumper
Attach the wire from the the outside leg of the SPST switch (with the 2200 ohm resistor) to JW186 (located near the SVideo port on the board)


Step 5- Attach R, G, B, and Blanking Wire to Associated Jumpers
RG and B go from output of the mod board into JW42-JW44.
JW44: RED
JW43: BLUE
JW42: GREEN
Note: YES, it goes R,B,G. I questioned it this last time too-- so I checked the diagrams again. It's R-44, B-43, G-42
The blanking line comes from the center of the SPST switch, and gets fed into JW130.


Step 6 - Attach ground to SVideo connector
Ground goes from the output of the mod board to pin1 of svideo. This pin is EXPOSED on the back of the connector.
This is the bottom left pin looking at the back of the SVideo connector.


Step 7 - Fire it up!! Youre Done.
Full write up coming soon

Keen as to see this God taking board in action!

All credit to MarkOZLAD -- I just located the jumpers for 5V and blanking.

can you please pm me that board schematic and VGA wiring so i can see if i did something wrong here? thanks! and whats "god"?

GOD should be GND, Ground.

Service manual is here.. diagrams are in the service manual.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/68309 ... fv300.html

I will be writing up a simplified guide this weekend.

VGA Pinout:


Red: pin1
Green: PIn2
Blue: Pin3
Gnd: pin 5
HSync: Pin 13
Vsync: pin 14

Just for some info...... this is (as far as I can find) the complete list of TV's on the BA-5D chassis:

KV-27FS100
KV-27FS210
KV-27FV300
KV-27FV310
KV-29FA210
KV-29FS100
KV-29FS100
KV-29FV300
KV-29FV300
KV-29FV310
KV-32FS100
KV-32FS200
KV-32FS210
KV-32FV300
KV-32FV310
KV-34FS100
KV-34FS100
KV-34FV250
KV-34FV310
KV-36FS100
KV-36FS200
KV-36FS210
KV-36FV300
KV-36FV310
KV-38FS200
KV-38FV250
KV-38FV310

Thank you so much mgerety! if possible please send a pic of the solder side of your little pre-drilled PCB where you put all the RGB and sync wires

god damn dirt worshiping hippies

I updated my post (a few back) with a much more complete set of pictures and instructions. I'm not including the back of the board in that because I suck at soldering.


WARNING!! HORRIBLE SOLDERING JOB BELOW:

not that bad lol..thanks man you guys help me a lot

I'm working on a BA-5 chasis and just have a couple questions for claification,

1. on the simple blanking circuit all i need are the two wires mentioned in your instructions correct? the 5v source with resistor in line to one of the outside legs of the switch and the 2nd one to center leg of the switch coming from the leg of the diode connected to the jungle chip side so that the 5v cant back travel to the OSD chip and fry it with 5v correct? no ground wires needed? i guess that's handled on the board by the 3.3k resistor that has a term to ground.

2. when wiring up my scart head this is quite a bit different from the Akai tv i had that had that unused scart point with everything in place on the board, so I wanna be sure I'm doing this right, I need to only wire up the following pins:

20 Composite vid
19 Comp. vid Ground
15 red input
11 green input
7 blue input
6,4, and 2 for audio L,R and groud

3. I assume I don't need to ground the RGB inputs because we already did that with the 75 ohm terminations hopping off the jumpers right before the jungle chip? or is this a separate ground from that?

4. Also assume i don't need anything to do with blanking, blanking ground, and pin 8 (switch) cause the my switch I wired up will handle that?

I'm going to go start wiring all that up as I've already don't all the other steps and this is all that's left to do.
By the way, there are 3 jumpers RIGHT BEFORE the 3 resistors we had to remove on the RGB lines so i used those to attach my 1100 ohm resistors and just took all the ground side legs and tied the all together and fed them to a ground. so there are two sets of jumpers you can use on this board.

For #1, that should be it for the blanking circult, except there are some bug differences between BA-5D and BA-5.

On the BA-5D, pin 40 traces through one resistor (r377) and a coil, L304, then to a jumper.

On 5A-5, Pin40 (ys2, blanking) traces through R263,then through what looks to be marked R337 AND C026 before hitting a jumper right next to c026. I don't know enough about electronics to give you any feedback as to how many ohms your blanking wire would be. But I'd always prefer to go in through a jumper if at all possible. Makes life so easy.

MARKOZLAD: can you give any feedback as to whether that jumper can be used, and what needs to be added to the 5v to use it?



Note:
R263 is 100ohm resistor
R337 is 2.2kohm resistor
Being that 2.2kohm is exactly what i used for my 5v/blanking line, does that mean he can just inject a 5v source directly to the jumper in the image above?




However, on the bright side, the jumpers for R, G, and B are directly next to the jumper for your blanking wire, so that makes that pretty damn easy.


For 2: Not sure, as I'm from the US and not that familiar with SCART. I don't know why you'd want/need composite video if you're doing RGB, unless composite video input carries CSYNC, then I'd say yes, that'll work, and looks correct.

For 3: Correct, if you are using the mod board design I did.

For 4: That is correct, yes. YOU are controlling blanking on this TV with the SPST switch.

I'm from the US as well, I chose scart cause I buy the fully shielded cables from retro gaming cables in UK. They make nice cables and I just so happen to get lucky with an Akai Brand Tv that was primarily sold in Europe and had an unused scart port on its motherboard lol All i had to do basically was wire up a scart port. So all my modded consoles are just set up to use straight scart cables.

I'm running my sync on composite, so thats why I've got that on there, i thought this was normally how you do it? (lol) Where did you pull your sync from?

I already tapped the leg of the diode like mark said in the original post of instructions, but damn yea that jumper woulda been allot easier!
the jumper near the jungle should be fine to use i think because on the OSD Chip it comes AFTER the the two diodes on the full RGB and Half Tone RGB lines. (If i understand how diodes work, they only let electricity flow one way. Am I right mark?)

Composite ground (sync ground) is pin 17. There are some erroneous pinouts on the net.

There is only one inbound sync pin on Scart, the Scart standard is to run Composite video. Other syncs are used due to different capabilities of the source or due to finding cleaner results from luma or csync but will still be delivered on the same Scart pin.

Ground the R, G and B grounds. You can run one big ground wire to all the ground pins (maybe keep audio separate).

Because you are using the switch you can ignore the blanking pins on the Scart port.

Yes, the diodes will prevent the flow of electricity in one direction.

PS: I am away on holidays so hard for me to review schematics etc. in general if there is a jumper on the circuit we want to use it if it is in the equivalent part of the circuit.

Well I fired it up and it works but the color seems a bit off and a little washed out. Any suggestions on what to check?
I/'ll post some pics in a little while, comparing my Akai to it. actually now that I think about it.. it looks like the contrast is turned down to low , ya know where black looks grey and colors are washed out a bit.

also, what is the switch suppose to actually do because my game can kinda be seen no matter which way the switch is flipped. only difference is i can only see the game through the spots where the menu is when its on screen otherwise it is all black. when its in rgb mode i can faintly faintly see the OSD menus, though not well enough to use the menus.

Ok here are quite a few images

1. Akai RGB/scart with menu brought up. Nice and vibrant

2. Akai RGB/Scart, beautiful picture!

3.Sony/Composite using video port 2, hooked up with standard yellow/red/white cable. Color seems normal

4. Sony/forced RGB Color washed out, blacks are greys, no menu really visible at all. If you look closely beside the red Mario text you can see the "Video" ever so faintly. That's all the the menu shows through when forced into RGB.

5.Sony/RGB Switch Flipped

I'm very close, but somethings not quite right. looking at the pictures through those screens... it kinda looks like im complaining about nothing lol but trust me, in person, its very noticeable! the composite feed though video 2 is a much more color acurate picture, while the RGB is like the contrast is turned to far up/down whichever way turns blacks to grey...

Also again the image is shifted severely to the left.

Did you remove R1084, R1085 and R1086?

When you unplug the Scart and input Composite does the OSD work as per normal?

The left shift is normal and has to be altered in service menu.

If your tv has s-video or component then use that as sync as will correct the shifted image.

That’s never worked for me on Australian models but worth a try.

1. Yea I removed them but instead of placing the new 1100 ohm resisters on the rgb jumper lines with the 75 ohm resistors i put them on the jumpers JUST BEFORE where they originally were and tied each resister to each line then ran one big wire on for ALL 3 on the ground side to a single ground point. If you look back on your original write up on your instructions for the bA-5, those jumpers you see before the resistors I removed,.. connect to them. I checked them with multimeter. I'm assuming this wouldn't have caused a problem would it? as the schematic doesn't list anthing between that point and the jungle chip except the .01 capacitors.

2. OSD Sorta works normal.... I'll show you what I mean. See the pics

Looks a tiny bit dim but otherwise normal on a black screen.
This is how it looks when playing the game on video 2 with composite hookups... don't think this is right. (yes its nearly black!) it should look the same as my first pic right?
pic of "stuck" video Label on screen. not sure why this won't go away...

And about the screen shift i figured I could fix that in service mode, I've ordered a tv remote for this tv from ebay and its coming but I probably wont see it till after christmas.

Im confused.. Are you sure your looking at the right schematic? the resistor numbers your talking about are not on my board i have the Ba-5 chasis (sony kv-24fv12) service manual here http://go-gddq.com/upload/2010-04/10040915469189.pdf

Also i'm getting conflicting information on whether or not I should wire up the grouding lines on my scart port, one of you said no and one said yes lol. i thought like mgerety that i already grounded the rgb lines with that 75 ohm term that I wouldn't need to ground them again on the scart pin out, pins 13 ,9, and 5, I did wire them up anyway though... was i right to do this?

I'm currious if there something wrong with my blanking circuit... it should be identical to mgerety's correct? 5v to 2.2k resistor, to one of the outer legs of a switch? shouldnt matter which side right? as its either side 1 or side 2, and the ones from the leg of the diode goes to center.

The 75 ohm termination of the RGB lines is completely seperate from the grounding of the R GND, G GND and B GND to the TV chassis.

Ok that clears that up, did you see the previous post I did where I posted more pics and was asking about where I tied in my 1100 ohm resisters in at? I’m not sure if it mattered or not.

I just noticed something interesting, the tv dims when I go into my menu, on 8bit guys video he did something to disable that. Should the same be done here?

And something else I just noticed, when I’m in rgb mode I can barely barely see the odd menu, I never noticed that before but even outside of rgb mode my odd now is barely visible, different from the Pics I took the other night! It seams to be varying on me

I am on holidays and therefore responding by phone. I have a lot more trouble following schematics and understanding and troubleshooting your implementation on a small screen.

The OSD being black when on Composite is the sign of an issue. It makes me think the grounding is somehow wrong on your RGB lines but I can’t be sure.

To use the OSD Mux method you should understand voltage division. Look it up and then think about your circuit.

For blanking. Perhaps try a potentiometer in place of the 2200 resistor.

The circuit disabled in the 8 bit guy’s TV does not exist in yours.

Can you take a photo of the 240p test suite showing the colour bars?

I have been playing with the picture controls and was able to get a decent picture. now my geometry is all sorts of warped, which I have to wait till I get that remote to start working on. second my OSD just completely not behaving lol. I like your idea of using an adjustable POT. like a 10k will do?
Here are the pics, i think everything looks good here, but I'm not entirely sure what your looking for so have a look.

So I picked up a KV-27FS12 the other day with a BA-5 chassis, turns out its different than the BA-5 chassis shown in this thread! I've gotta pick up some different resistors tomorrow, and I'll post back with my info and pictures for the mod. Seems stupid easy, and is done entirely on a small daughterboard.

Only downside is it seems this TV was tossed around a bit, one of the wedges for the yoke had fallen out and was sitting on the PCB, guess thats the next obstacle.



https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10555 ... 7fs12.html