Rgb on the top, Component on bottom. It looks like there's some jailbars there but that's just the camera.
Spoiler


Damn, that sucks! I already have HPOS as far as it will go right (0). I guess I will look into using S-video instead of Composite for sync then. It was bothering me anyway to be honest, the picture still seemed about 3/4 inch too far left even after the max adjustment. Thanks a bunch for the info!mikejmoffitt wrote:The NES RGB problem shown in that picture is a result of the image being shifted far left. As a result, the overscan border color (blue, in the case of the Super Mario Bros sky) is being used as the clamping level for black. The TV subtracts the black level sample from the rest of the line, so if your black level has image data there you'll get strange color subtraction effects in the line. You need to use the service menu to shift the image right, or change the clamping delay. If you have other inputs to try like S-video or Component, try using those for sync.
Out of interest, how is the horizontal position for the other consoles?nakedarthur wrote:Damn, that sucks! I already have HPOS as far as it will go right (0). I guess I will look into using S-video instead of Composite for sync then. It was bothering me anyway to be honest, the picture still seemed about 3/4 inch too far left even after the max adjustment. Thanks a bunch for the info!mikejmoffitt wrote:The NES RGB problem shown in that picture is a result of the image being shifted far left. As a result, the overscan border color (blue, in the case of the Super Mario Bros sky) is being used as the clamping level for black. The TV subtracts the black level sample from the rest of the line, so if your black level has image data there you'll get strange color subtraction effects in the line. You need to use the service menu to shift the image right, or change the clamping delay. If you have other inputs to try like S-video or Component, try using those for sync.
It's definitely a little too far left even with it at zero. Looking at the Genesis grid in 240p Test Suite I could see just outside of the overscan area on the right, and it was near the inside edge of the overscan for the left side. It's not too terrible but in Lightening Force for example, if I move my ship as far as it will go to the left side of the screen I could maybe only see like a quarter of it.MarkOZLAD wrote:Out of interest, how is the horizontal position for the other consoles?
Was the jungle in this one a VCT49xyl? Chassis MC-049a?Syntax wrote:Had a tricky one today.
LG Flatron.
It seemed to have provision for scart but many components missing and jungle RGB input lines and blanking grounded.
Wired the set like normal and blanking was doing nothing.
Checked the service menu and enabled scart and bam rgb.
But it seemed blanking did not need power. If grounded my rgb injection would stop and if left floating "high" the rgb would blank.
Issue is if I leave it floating no other video inputs can be used till scart is turned off in service.
I didn't want a switch for it so I pulled out a 10k pot and wired it like "5v-blank-ground" turned to full resistance then turned on the set and swept the pot till my RGB picture came through over the comp one.
So the aim was to find out how low I had to pull the blanking pin before blanking would stop and increase the pot till it just blanked,( mainly because i could not find data on what the jungle expects so lowest volts is best) read the pots values and remake it with resistors.
The values I ended up with were
ground - 2.5k - blanking - 7.5k - console 5v
Works as it should now. Unplug it and watch tv or use composite, which I will do neither of.. I just like things to work as expected.
Cthulhu? :pcyborc wrote:You're doing the lord's work, Syntax!
Did I read that correctly? 90?Syntax wrote: But I've recently lined up about 90× 28 inch RGB crt wall installation sets. All with fk all use but case scratches as they are ex rentals.
I know right, I'm only going to grab 9 but even that's too many. PM me if your keen and in NSW.MarkOZLAD wrote:Did I read that correctly? 90?Syntax wrote: But I've recently lined up about 90× 28 inch RGB crt wall installation sets. All with fk all use but case scratches as they are ex rentals.
You were right, it was from the overscan area being used as black level. I moved it over to S-video and now the NESRGB is perfect. Thanks!mikejmoffitt wrote:The NES RGB problem shown in that picture is a result of the image being shifted far left. As a result, the overscan border color (blue, in the case of the Super Mario Bros sky) is being used as the clamping level for black. The TV subtracts the black level sample from the rest of the line, so if your black level has image data there you'll get strange color subtraction effects in the line. You need to use the service menu to shift the image right, or change the clamping delay. If you have other inputs to try like S-video or Component, try using those for sync.
Glad you got it sorted, looks like a very successful mod.nakedarthur wrote:You were right, it was from the overscan area being used as black level. I moved it over to S-video and now the NESRGB is perfect. Thanks!mikejmoffitt wrote:The NES RGB problem shown in that picture is a result of the image being shifted far left. As a result, the overscan border color (blue, in the case of the Super Mario Bros sky) is being used as the clamping level for black. The TV subtracts the black level sample from the rest of the line, so if your black level has image data there you'll get strange color subtraction effects in the line. You need to use the service menu to shift the image right, or change the clamping delay. If you have other inputs to try like S-video or Component, try using those for sync.
Page 15MarkOZLAD wrote:Syntax, you might be able to help with this one.
Helping another Brazillian chap do a mod.
He has a Phillips 21PT534A/78R. It has a TDA 8841 Jungle. It's another one of those that completely blanks the RGB lines at 4V, same as for Marcos.
Seeing really weird behaviour. Have connected the blanking pin to a 5V source (in fact we've tried two, the 5V regulator and the Fac Serv line for Serial Port) via a 10K pot. We can get blanking to happen but it only lasts for a short while and then the blanking stops again. TV Returns to showing only sync. As my Brazillian friend put it, it is like the blanking pin is hungry! Repeated turns of the potentiometer result in the same thing, blanking and then blanking stops after a short while.
I am a complete novice when it comes to the blanking. I've been lucky that the TVs I've modded have been dead simple to get blanking, just 5V or 5V with a pot/resistor. this one has me confounded. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Mark
No we haven't. We will try that next.Syntax wrote:Page 15MarkOZLAD wrote:Syntax, you might be able to help with this one.
Helping another Brazillian chap do a mod.
He has a Phillips 21PT534A/78R. It has a TDA 8841 Jungle. It's another one of those that completely blanks the RGB lines at 4V, same as for Marcos.
Seeing really weird behaviour. Have connected the blanking pin to a 5V source (in fact we've tried two, the 5V regulator and the Fac Serv line for Serial Port) via a 10K pot. We can get blanking to happen but it only lasts for a short while and then the blanking stops again. TV Returns to showing only sync. As my Brazillian friend put it, it is like the blanking pin is hungry! Repeated turns of the potentiometer result in the same thing, blanking and then blanking stops after a short while.
I am a complete novice when it comes to the blanking. I've been lucky that the TVs I've modded have been dead simple to get blanking, just 5V or 5V with a pot/resistor. this one has me confounded. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Mark
By means of the IE1 bit the insertion blanking can be switched on or off. Via the IN1 bit it can be read whether the insertion pin has a high level or not.
FAST BLANKING, PIN 26 (38 AND 44 FOR TDA 885X)
S.3.1 input voltage no data insertion −−0.4 V S.3.2 data insertion 0.9 0.6 − V
Did you try wire a 10k pot with 5v one side and ground the other side with blanking pin in the middle?
Now that is interesting. The schematic shows the OSD blanking being terminated to a 4.7KOhm resistor. Will follow up that lead.Syntax wrote: When in doubt get out the multimeter and trace out the OSD blanking path, make note of the components and if it has a termination resistor there is a good chance you will need to wire the pot like that.
I used BNC jacks for this one, so what I ended up doing is removing the 4th jack for sync and modded my Monoprice VGA to BNC cable so the sync line ends with an S-video connector. Easy enoughMarkOZLAD wrote:Glad you got it sorted, looks like a very successful mod.nakedarthur wrote:You were right, it was from the overscan area being used as black level. I moved it over to S-video and now the NESRGB is perfect. Thanks!mikejmoffitt wrote:The NES RGB problem shown in that picture is a result of the image being shifted far left. As a result, the overscan border color (blue, in the case of the Super Mario Bros sky) is being used as the clamping level for black. The TV subtracts the black level sample from the rest of the line, so if your black level has image data there you'll get strange color subtraction effects in the line. You need to use the service menu to shift the image right, or change the clamping delay. If you have other inputs to try like S-video or Component, try using those for sync.
Did you create an adaptor chord to send the sync into the S-Video port or did you wire the sync line internally to a Y pin?
That's the one in the PVM-2950Q right? I have one with a bad tube, and tried looking for one also hahamikejmoffitt wrote:Can you check what type of tube is in your KV-27S42? I'm on the hunt for an M68KUZ10X and I have reason to believe it may have one.
cyborc, the picture is friggin stunning on your newly-modded Sharp setcyborc wrote:I succesfully completed this mod on a Sharp 27sc260 tv. It already had component and it looked good with the retrotek RGB to component converter but I was curious to see what RGB looked like on the TV. There is a definite difference in color but I imagine I could've done some service menu tweaks to get the component colors looking close or even identical to RGB. Here's a few comparison pics.
Rgb on the top, Component on bottom. It looks like there's some jailbars there but that's just the camera.
Spoiler
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Thanks! I was pretty impressed by how it turned out too.FinalBaton wrote: cyborc, the picture is friggin stunning on your newly-modded Sharp set![]()
Look at that luminance accuracy...
Look at those rich but super well-balanced colors...
Great job!
Yep, I've got a PVM-2950Q that looks like it's been dropped. After repairing the cracked A-board I powered it on and found that it works, except the purity is screwy in the corners. It's possible that the deguass coil just isn't firing since I have no evidence that it is.nakedarthur wrote:That's the one in the PVM-2950Q right? I have one with a bad tube, and tried looking for one also hahamikejmoffitt wrote:Can you check what type of tube is in your KV-27S42? I'm on the hunt for an M68KUZ10X and I have reason to believe it may have one.The Service Manual lists the KV-27S42 as using a "CRT 29NX" or Sony Part number 8-733-873-05.