shmups.system11.org

I completed my jvc av-27020 with a Toshiba TA1242N
I used ethernet cable and all is perfect and the image does not seem shifted at all to me.
One thing though it takes the tv about 20 secs to show a pic sometimes it is rolling then it slowly syncs and then the colors come in correct.

Here are pics and I will include the wiring from ethernet

small blue wire is 5 volts from the tuner.
black wire is pin 14 fast blank
both of these run to a switch. (the black and blue wires are not from a ethernet cable obviously)
brown pin 39 sync
orange pin 15 is red
green pin 16 is green
blue pin 17 is blue
white red wire is right audio
white blue is left audio
white green is ground
and the last cable is ground as well.

Here are the pics
in case it helps others

http://imgur.com/a/O9DQ2





I tried using .1 Caps and 75 ohm resistors as well as without and it does not make any differnce with this display. So you can just solder the wiring direct to a scart socket.


Hope this may help others.

Good stuff guys!
I like the pics showing the install, although the size used here could be smaller

Hi all,

I have been trying to attempt this hack for awhile now on a few different tvs with little to no success.

Although I am feeling really good about this set, its a sony kv-27ts29 made in 1994.
After poring over schematics for a few hours I have come to the conclusion that I cannot use the osd lines as they are digital on the jungle "CXA1464AS" IC, but It does have a closed caption chip that feeds analog rgb into the jungle IC.

So on the lines from the CC chip there are an inline resistor with 4.7k ohm, I am assuming I can pull those, feed my rgb in and this is where i am a little confused.

The schematic tells me "switchover between the analog r, g, and b signals and the R,G and B signals of the y/c block is made by the i2c bus register and signal input to the Ys pin, pin 15."

So I am guessing I want to feed my 5v into pin 15 and not the OSD blanking line on pin 9 as that is for the digital R,G,B lines according to the schematic?

Any input would be appreciated as I don't want to mess this one up.

thanks all!

ic2 means you need a way to send the code to do this (software hacking). It is not done by voltage. I expect it is easier to find a different tv.

Thanks for the info wildchild, I assumed that would be the case, I was just thinking that the i2c bus uses 0v and 5v for logic and if it was set high it would stay on... :/
Is it ill advised to just bypass the jungle ic and connect straight into the rgb output? or is that method no longer worth it?

I do not think you can bypass the jungle ic as the jungle ic sends the correct amplitude signal to the neckboad. And the signal from a console is 0.7 volts peak to peak which is to low. (that is my understanding)

I have modded its cousin the kv27ts32, and yes 5v to pin 15 and R,G,B to pin 16,17,18 respectively. If you do that you are in business.

Using the RGB outputs is possible, but ill advised. I was doing it for an I2C controlled Samsung TV, and Tim came in and schooled me In the case of the set I was using, it interrupts some of the self-limiting done by the jungle chip, so the HV could end up drifting. You need an amp as well. And there might be noise issues.

Sounds like your set should work though, according to Suprcrackers. The I2C swtich might be a backup/secondary to the fast blanking pin.

It was the easiest set I have ever worked on. Get to keep the OSD while you are in RGB. It makes any adjustments that much easier.

Sweet! that's awesome, I ordered a scart socket and some other small parts and will set this up as such.

I was wondering where did you tie your 5v to on that set? I'm looking at an unpopulated connector on the board that has 5v and also links to pin 15.
If I connected the two should that be fine or will i have problems? Or do I remove Diode d004 from the closed caption portion and tie the 5v into that side of pin 15?
The two red dots is what I was looking to do from the start.



Thanks for the info!

GoXoD, I can't wait to see pics from your RGB set!. It uses Microblack Trinitron tubes and those are very sharp and vibrant tubes, I love those

I took my 5v from the leg of the capacitor with the purple wire running to it. Although I think any 5v would work, and I went straight to pin 15.

Thank you very much suprcrackers!

Ok, I was not sure if I needed to remove any components or anything so that answers that question!

It will probably be next week before i get my parts but I will do my best to get some good shots from a ps1 for everyone to see!

I put some effort into organizing the first post so it can be a more useful reference.

Good effort Mike!

Thanks Mike. It's good seeing you on the CRT Collective.

Alright, so I am making progress on my rgb mod, but I've hit a bump in the road.
Only my rgb modded N64 syncs. Mega drive and Saturn (both composite video sync) *almost* syncs, while the super famicom (Csync) is completely garbled.
Anyone smarter than me care to chime in? Could mention that sync is straight trough from the scart plug, should I have terminated with 75 ohms there as well?

http://imgur.com/a/6ptYB

Edit, I'm an idiot......Forgot to add the clamp capacitor on the sync line......
Now the super famicom works too. Still having issues with MD and saturn, but will try to make a new cable for the MD with Csync, if that works I suppose I need to get a sync cleaner for the saturn.

I am hoping to pick up a TV this weekend to mod, as my KV27FS120 has run into some geometry issues I can't seem to iron out. Think I may go a bit smaller on this one... 20-24". Anyone got any models they can recommend for RGB modding?

The Genesis' TTL Csync is rather unique.

Place a 430ohm series resistor with a 10uF couple cap on the sync line. A 220uF cap will do just fine if that's what you have on hand. But 10uF will suffice.

Isn't it just an open collector line?

Alright, will look into that, thanks for the advice.

I'm a bit confused by what I'm seeing here, I haven't been adding any capacitors or resistors on the sync source. All I do is I wire the sync into the luma input, effectively internalizing what would be the equivalent of plugging sync into the luma pin on component or s-video on the back of the TV. There are already caps and resistors behind that input on the A board. Not only do you not need to add your own caps and resistors, you'll find the giant lugs on the RCA modules are very easy to tap into (and for stereo input I've been having to remove those anyway and chop off the mono crossfeed lug to defeat that unwanted feature).

And just to add some RGB porn, here's two recent mods I did to sell locally. This was a more lucrative business than I thought and I got a swarm of e-mails hoping to claim the TVs or drop off TVs for modding. If any of you become handy at your craft I suggest offering your services on your local Craigslist with the keywords "PVM/BVM" to help RGB fans find you. This mod can be performed on almost ANY SD CRT, provided it's working properly in the first place.

http://gadgetscope.com/rgb/kv27s66/2.jpg
http://gadgetscope.com/rgb/kv27s66/8.jpg
6 other pics of this KV-27s66

http://gadgetscope.com/rgb/36fs100/5.jpg
http://gadgetscope.com/rgb/36fs100/7.jpg
http://gadgetscope.com/rgb/36fs100/8.jpg
http://gadgetscope.com/rgb/36fs100/9.jpg
5 other pics of this KV-36fs100

That's right. but the capacitor is integral.

It's around 135mV without the cap and 523mV with it (10uF).

The size of the cap doesn't make much of a difference, that will only affect how long it takes it to reach a steady state.

Tjsynkral is this you?

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/ele/6011128286.html

Made a shoddy (For some reason I hate soldering cables...) Csync cable for the mega drive. Worked so-so, steady-ish sync, but a lot of image noise in the upper 1/4 of the screen. Added a 10 uF cap (Will add a resistor when I can get one), but now it looks super clean, so thanks again for the tip

Hey, I'm about to attempt the mod on a kv-20m42 that I got for free, and I was hoping someone with more knowledge/experience here might check my work. I located my Jungle IC and I think I know how to proceed, but I have a few questions. My plan is to use a VGA connector for the rgb input from consoles. I'll try to explain what how I want to wire up the switch as best I can(4PDT).


^my jungle ic for reference

So, for the middle row/switch output I'll be using wires running to pins 29, 30, 31, 32 for blanking/r/g/b pins respectively. I've lifted 30, 31, and 32 but I don't know if I need to lift blanking?

For one input, I'd wire to my VGA connector, pins 1/2/3 for rgb with 75ohm resistors to chassis ground(pin 40 on JIC), and .1 uf caps(little 104 guys) to the switch, and I'm considering pin 9(on dsub 15) for 5v from consoles because I'm having trouble figuring out where to get it on the chassis. The tuner looks like my best bet for 5v but I'm having trouble matching up the pins to the schematic because I'm pretty noob at reading them.

For the other switch input, I'm thinking youd wire to the vias/the caps before the pin holes, and then the blanking via if blanking is lifted(?), to return the connections to normal to get osd back for service menu etc.


^caps i'm talking about

so a few other questions:

-does direction of the ceramic caps matter? If so, do I want the 4 on the side of the tv or console?
-should I send sync to pin 41 (or 4) on the jic, or to one of the composite ports? I remember voultar saying something about levels being different on the ports themselves causing horizontal shifting, so I'm hesitant to use those, mostly I'm just asking if I correctly identifying pins 41 and 4 as composite video.
-any reason I shouldn't use jic pin 40 for chassis ground? It's easy enough to get elsewhere but I'd rather not have wires running everywhere if I can avoid it.
-is there any better place people typically get 5v on this chassis? i'd love to just take it from 33 on the jic but thats 9v and that's probably way too much for blanking.
-would it be any different to ground the 75ohm resistors to pin 6 on dsub 15 connector/console?

thanks for reading this, any help/advice is appreciated.

Composite video can go through a series of post processes. Such as a comb filter, for example. This may cause a little line delay which can offset the horizontal positioning if you choose to use that.

Nope, but his methods are shockingly similar to mine...

My thoughts:

1. It's too late for this, but I would not have lifted any legs of the jungle. It's much easier to remove C316-318 and R316 from the board, and then replace those components on a breakout board.
2. Yes, you need to isolate blanking. Connect pin 30 (or the pad under R316 facing pin 30 if it's in good shape after removing the resistor) to the replacement resistor on your board, and connect the other side of R316 (look for a nice and easy through-hole component to solder to, previous to R316) to the OSD mode of your 4PDT switch.
3. My preference is to use a SCART connector. Your consoles will have SCART output, so if you use anything other than SCART, you'll just need to build an adapter anyway. The nice thing about SCART is you connect RGBS and stereo sound in one plug.
4. Your caps should ideally be .01uf (10nf) to match what you're removing from the Sony board, but in my testing it doesn't make a visible difference so far.
5. Your caps need to be in line with RGB after the switch, because they are necessary for both OSD and external RGB.
6. The tuner 5V is probably fine but I have always used power from the VCC on the jungle (with the same 100 ohm resistor used on the OSD) and it's always worked out fine for me. You may find grabbing the power is easy from under C373, C374, or L301. I do not suggest relying on SCART power to feed the blanking circuit, although I will admit I haven't experimented with it, I just expect spotty results.
7. Similarly, there's much easier places to solder to ground than pin 40.
8. You don't need to worry about polarity on ceramic caps. If you happen to use electrolytics the cathode faces the TV and your game console is high.
9. If the TV has luma I put the sync into luma. You will also need to pull the s-video leg low to enable S-video mode (R269). As I commented above, I wire the sync into the point where the connector enters the TV and then the needed caps and resistors for the sync input are already there.
10. Ground is ground, as long as you get that 75 ohms to ground somewhere between the SCART and the switch, you're good.

thanks for the really detailed response!

1. any reason to not lift the legs besides not wanting to break them? they seemed pretty sturdy and I was hesitant to remove the smd components.
2. i'm assuming you mean pin 29? 30 is blue, 29 is blanking(I just want to be sure i'm not missing something).
3. I've already got ports/custom cables for dsub 15 connectors as well as tons of them lying around, which is why I'm using them. I was just planning on running audio into the same port set I pulled composite from, which I'm assuming will work because you need to be on the matching input for sync if I'm understanding correctly.
5. I wouldn't need inline caps if I'm pulling from the solder pads above 30-32 with the caps still in them would I? since I lifted they're still there, I'd just need the caps inline from the console?
6. so you just added a 100 ohm resistor between vcc and the switch pin? If so that seems pretty easy and I'll try that.
7. I'll probably look around for a better ground point or just grab from the comp vid rca jack since I'll be trying that first for sync I think.
9. No luma on this set, just 2 sets of comp vid and mono audio.

I'm waiting a few days for a new soldering station to come in so I just want to have a good plan/all my ducks in a row before I go about doing anything more. thanks again guys