shmups.system11.org

Move your sync to pin 20 of your scart connecter,that should fix your problem.

Pin 20 was the answer, although I tried that before 19 and was having worse sync problems. It must have been a loose connector or something. I guess I will get the rest of the shell glued together tomorrow and try to clean up the excess epoxy. The tube is very nice but the plastic didn't hold up well to transport.

Long time lurker here, and I've trash picked an Admiral TV with a Sharp CRT.

I'm hoping that it can be RGB modded, I've found the chip is a X2933CE. I've found the schematics for it here :

http://www.datasheetbank.com/X2933CE-Datasheet-PDF-Sharp

If I understand this correctly, I want pins 15, 16, 17 for R G B, AND pin 14 for the blanking.

After that I'm kinda lost. Each line should have a resistor to ground, and pin 13 appears to be that.

I Appreciate any help you can provide.

Thanks!
Vince

G'Day all,

I have just recently acquired a Sony PVM 9220ME and am looking for some help in working out if I can RGB mod this little unit.
I have had a good look over the schematics and can see board BA, pins 3,4 and 5 on IC252 for RGB and blanking on pin 28.
Not sure if this is the correct place to tap in to, and if it is, what resistors etc would be involved.

Schematics are here: https://ia800603.us.archive.org/16/items/sony_PVM-9220ME_Service_Manual/PVM-9220ME_Service_Manual.pdf

Section in the schematics which I am looking at, not sure if correct though. https://i.imgur.com/LOvFhSd.jpg

Kind regards,
Matt

I have a Citizen Model# JCTV1591

The Jungle IC: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/1146347/Mitsubishi/M52339ASP/1

I'm using pins 26, 27, 28, 30.

When I apply 5v to pin 30 (FAST BLK) it turns the screen black, and the OSD is still visible when accessed.

BUT... I see no signal from the RGB input. If I run a button cell battery in series with the Red, Green, or Blue inputs, I can see the image, but it's only one color, and it's obviously not correct. It does prove that the inputs work, but it leaves me wondering why without a boost, the image won't show.

The OSD menu causes 0.7V to appear on the RGB lines, and 4.9V on the (FAST BLK) pin 30.

The PS2 and DVD player output around 0.8V on the RGB lines, when displaying something.

With RGB connected & in use, the OSD text turns black, with or without the 5v on (FAST BLK)

I haven't added any resistors/capacitors to the circuit, just lifted the chip pins, and tried for a proof of concept.

Lifting the RGB chip pins isn't the way to go. Instead lift the legs of the RGB circuit capacitors, the legs the farthest from the jungle, and inject RGB into them. There needs to be capacitors on the RGB inputs.

Thanks for responding. I'll give it a shot tonight, and let you know what happens.

Edit: I probed with the multimeter and I found something different, so have a look at the schematic I made, and let me know where to inject the RGB signals. There is no ground attached to the resistors, and no in-line capacitors.

Hello, anyone with a bit of technical knowledge help? I'm looking to mod a magnavox tv to take Component signals. I've enabled the CVI (Component Video Input) on the set Options settings.

Now I will need to inject the connection signals at the right voltage. See imgur link for relevant schematics I could find.
https://imgur.com/dufLjj6
https://imgur.com/QRpwzxQ

My signal is standard coming from a Retrotink RGB2Comp. Can the YUV signal go directly to the Chip at 46,47, and 48?

I believe this chip M52339ASP only has digital RGB inputs.

It's ok. I have 5 more tv's to try this out on.


UPDATE: I successfully modified my RCA 27" Model #27GT530[YX2] Chassis #CTC203AF9

The RGB lines were connected to .1µF capacitors, and then to the resistors with the microcontroller. In the middle was an unused branch for each line, including the blanking signal. The unused branches, went to an unpopulated pin header, so I injected the signals there, with 75Ω resistors in-series with each line.

I tried terminating the resistors to ground, instead of in-series, but all I got was a black screen.

The colours are correctly balanced, but they are pretty intense compared to the composite signal. (Maybe I should increase the resistor value?) For now, I just used the service menu, to adjust the amount of intensity.

Thanks for all the help. I will let you know if I find any more tv's that work with this mod.

.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ul-PjA ... e=youtu.be

I followed the guide here to mod a Toshiba 27AF43 series but i seem to be getting a lot of ringing/noise in the picture. Has anyone encountered this before? Also the colors seem overly bright despite me using 75Ohm resistors on the lines. I usually mod trinitrons and 75 seems to be fine, im wondering if this set requires a higher value.

The second pic has just the green channel connected as i was testing it but you can see the ringing by the characters feet if you look close enough. Its much more noticeable on the first screen.

https://imgur.com/a/lqwsSFK

No way I'm watching another OSD snip video in my lifetime. Won't be able to hold down my breakfast. I'd rather get a rectal exam.

Are you playing a PS2? PlayStation consoles output Sync-on-Green, which may be causing the noise.

IIRC there is a setting that can be accessed in the PS2 to set the video output to RGB instead of YPbPr/YCbCr, this may also help.

Sync line is connected to the wrong jungle pin.

If you are, there are devices that can fix sync on green if your tv isn't compatibile, but the only one I know off off the top of my head is a gscartsw, which is pricy, but you get an 8 in 2 out automatic scart switch out of the deal

Followup on adding Component video to Magnavox tv 14MS2331/17. (According to the user manual 20MS2331/17 and 20MS2331/37R are similar.)
Enter the service menu, and goto Options, OP #5. The CVI input select option has a bit value of 8. This value is off meaning 0 value, when my original value is 192. Using the number keys on the remote enter 200. Exit the service menu. According to the instructions the tv should be powered off and unplugged from the wall for at least 10 seconds to assure writing of the data.

If you haven't already its probably time to identify the chip in your TV where the signal will be connected. My chip is labeled TDA9377PS/N3/A/1815, and the methods used should work for TDA9377 and TDA9370 chips, but I make no promises. The incoming Component signal first needs to be sent to grounding 75ohm resistor and through 10uf /16V coupling capacitor with + leg facing the chip, according to a China TDA9730 TV schematic. Connect signals to pins 46-(V / Pr / Red), 47-(Y / Green), and 48-(U / Pb / Blue). I chose to connect to top side of the jungle chip.

Finally blanking travels through a 1k0 surface mount resistor from 8v line to pin 45. This component had to be populated on the circuit board to be able to switch on Component transcoding. The tv could only display Composite without this.

Connect your audio lines to front stereo jacks, and don't forget to ground the video lines. The CVI is selected with the channel up/down button on screen, so there's no need to add toggle switches.

Yes Pins 14-17 are correct.

Try this for your inputs:

Notes:
-The colored circles are your new RGB inputs.
-The 75Ω resistors are in series with the original resistors, which no longer go directly to ground.



The external video jack (yellow RCA) is your sync. (it's connected to pin 37)