TV RGB mod thread

[Pikkon]

Move your sync to pin 20 of your scart connecter,that should fix your problem.

[Cooperd9]

Pin 20 was the answer, although I tried that before 19 and was having worse sync problems. It must have been a loose connector or something. I guess I will get the rest of the shell glued together tomorrow and try to clean up the excess epoxy. The tube is very nice but the plastic didn't hold up well to transport.

[vincediesil]

Long time lurker here, and I've trash picked an Admiral TV with a Sharp CRT.

I'm hoping that it can be RGB modded, I've found the chip is a X2933CE. I've found the schematics for it here :

http://www.datasheetbank.com/X2933CE-Da ... -PDF-Sharp

If I understand this correctly, I want pins 15, 16, 17 for R G B, AND pin 14 for the blanking.

After that I'm kinda lost. Each line should have a resistor to ground, and pin 13 appears to be that.

I Appreciate any help you can provide.

Thanks!
Vince

[pantera]

G'Day all,

I have just recently acquired a Sony PVM 9220ME and am looking for some help in working out if I can RGB mod this little unit.
I have had a good look over the schematics and can see board BA, pins 3,4 and 5 on IC252 for RGB and blanking on pin 28.
Not sure if this is the correct place to tap in to, and if it is, what resistors etc would be involved.

Schematics are here: https://ia800603.us.archive.org/16/item ... Manual.pdf

Section in the schematics which I am looking at, not sure if correct though. https://i.imgur.com/LOvFhSd.jpg

Kind regards,
Matt

[Bad Company]

I have a Citizen Model# JCTV1591

The Jungle IC: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/1146 ... 52339ASP/1

I'm using pins 26, 27, 28, 30.

When I apply 5v to pin 30 (FAST BLK) it turns the screen black, and the OSD is still visible when accessed.

BUT... I see no signal from the RGB input. If I run a button cell battery in series with the Red, Green, or Blue inputs, I can see the image, but it's only one color, and it's obviously not correct. It does prove that the inputs work, but it leaves me wondering why without a boost, the image won't show.

The OSD menu causes 0.7V to appear on the RGB lines, and 4.9V on the (FAST BLK) pin 30.

The PS2 and DVD player output around 0.8V on the RGB lines, when displaying something.

With RGB connected & in use, the OSD text turns black, with or without the 5v on (FAST BLK)

I haven't added any resistors/capacitors to the circuit, just lifted the chip pins, and tried for a proof of concept.

[MarkOZLAD]

I have a Citizen Model# JCTV1591

The Jungle IC: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/1146 ... 52339ASP/1

I'm using pins 26, 27, 28, 30.

When I apply 5v to pin 30 (FAST BLK) it turns the screen black, and the OSD is still visible when accessed.

BUT... I see no signal from the RGB input. If I run a button cell battery in series with the Red, Green, or Blue inputs, I can see the image, but it's only one color, and it's obviously not correct. It does prove that the inputs work, but it leaves me wondering why without a boost, the image won't show.

The OSD menu causes 0.7V to appear on the RGB lines, and 4.9V on the (FAST BLK) pin 30.

The PS2 and DVD player output around 0.8V on the RGB lines, when displaying something.

With RGB connected & in use, the OSD text turns black, with or without the 5v on (FAST BLK)

I haven't added any resistors/capacitors to the circuit, just lifted the chip pins, and tried for a proof of concept.

Lifting the RGB chip pins isn't the way to go. Instead lift the legs of the RGB circuit capacitors, the legs the farthest from the jungle, and inject RGB into them. There needs to be capacitors on the RGB inputs.

[Bad Company]

Lifting the RGB chip pins isn't the way to go. Instead lift the legs of the RGB circuit capacitors, the legs the farthest from the jungle, and inject RGB into them. There needs to be capacitors on the RGB inputs.

Thanks for responding. I'll give it a shot tonight, and let you know what happens.

Edit: I probed with the multimeter and I found something different, so have a look at the schematic I made, and let me know where to inject the RGB signals. There is no ground attached to the resistors, and no in-line capacitors.

[stonesipping]

Hello, anyone with a bit of technical knowledge help? I'm looking to mod a magnavox tv to take Component signals. I've enabled the CVI (Component Video Input) on the set Options settings.

Now I will need to inject the connection signals at the right voltage. See imgur link for relevant schematics I could find.
https://imgur.com/dufLjj6
https://imgur.com/QRpwzxQ

My signal is standard coming from a Retrotink RGB2Comp. Can the YUV signal go directly to the Chip at 46,47, and 48?

[MarkOZLAD]

I believe this chip M52339ASP only has digital RGB inputs.

[Bad Company]

UPDATE: I successfully modified my RCA 27" Model #27GT530[YX2] Chassis #CTC203AF9

The RGB lines were connected to .1µF capacitors, and then to the resistors with the microcontroller. In the middle was an unused branch for each line, including the blanking signal. The unused branches, went to an unpopulated pin header, so I injected the signals there, with 75Ω resistors in-series with each line.

I tried terminating the resistors to ground, instead of in-series, but all I got was a black screen.

The colors are correctly balanced, but they are pretty intense compared to the composite signal. (Maybe I should increase the resistor value?) For now, I just used the service menu, to adjust the amount of intensity.


UPDATE 2: I changed the resistors to 150Ω and that has made the colors better. I tried 220Ω, but the screen was too dark. 150Ω is almost perfect, but I could get a bit closer if I used a 200-300Ω linear POT.

[retrozar]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ul-PjA ... e=youtu.be

I followed the guide here to mod a Toshiba 27AF43 series but i seem to be getting a lot of ringing/noise in the picture. Has anyone encountered this before? Also the colors seem overly bright despite me using 75Ohm resistors on the lines. I usually mod trinitrons and 75 seems to be fine, im wondering if this set requires a higher value.

The second pic has just the green channel connected as i was testing it but you can see the ringing by the characters feet if you look close enough. Its much more noticeable on the first screen.

https://imgur.com/a/lqwsSFK

[MarkOZLAD]

No way I'm watching another OSD snip video in my lifetime. Won't be able to hold down my breakfast. I'd rather get a rectal exam.

[Bad Company]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ul-PjA ... e=youtu.be

I followed the guide here to mod a Toshiba 27AF43 series but i seem to be getting a lot of ringing/noise in the picture. Has anyone encountered this before? Also the colors seem overly bright despite me using 75Ohm resistors on the lines. I usually mod trinitrons and 75 seems to be fine, im wondering if this set requires a higher value.

The second pic has just the green channel connected as i was testing it but you can see the ringing by the characters feet if you look close enough. Its much more noticeable on the first screen.

https://imgur.com/a/lqwsSFK

Are you playing a PS2? PlayStation consoles output Sync-on-Green, which may be causing the noise.

IIRC there is a setting that can be accessed in the PS2 to set the video output to RGB instead of YPbPr/YCbCr, this may also help.

[MOUMOUH]

Hello guys.. help me please. im complete new to mod, i want to mod my CRT sony trinitron KV-TG21L70 to RGBs scart

i dit a lot of research and i found a lot of information about my TV, Please take a look at the pictures and let me know what is the best to go about it...If rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else....

[Syntax]

Sync line is connected to the wrong jungle pin.

[Cooperd9]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ul-PjA ... e=youtu.be

I followed the guide here to mod a Toshiba 27AF43 series but i seem to be getting a lot of ringing/noise in the picture. Has anyone encountered this before? Also the colors seem overly bright despite me using 75Ohm resistors on the lines. I usually mod trinitrons and 75 seems to be fine, im wondering if this set requires a higher value.

The second pic has just the green channel connected as i was testing it but you can see the ringing by the characters feet if you look close enough. Its much more noticeable on the first screen.

https://imgur.com/a/lqwsSFK

Are you playing a PS2? PlayStation consoles output Sync-on-Green, which may be causing the noise.

IIRC there is a setting that can be accessed in the PS2 to set the video output to RGB instead of YPbPr/YCbCr, this may also help.

If you are, there are devices that can fix sync on green if your tv isn't compatibile, but the only one I know off off the top of my head is a gscartsw, which is pricy, but you get an 8 in 2 out automatic scart switch out of the deal

[stonesipping]

Followup on adding Component video to Magnavox tv 14MS2331/17. (According to the user manual 20MS2331/17 and 20MS2331/37R are similar.)
Enter the service menu, and goto Options, OP #5. The CVI input select option has a bit value of 8. This value is off meaning 0 value, when my original value is 192. Using the number keys on the remote enter 200. Exit the service menu. According to the instructions the tv should be powered off and unplugged from the wall for at least 10 seconds to assure writing of the data.

If you haven't already its probably time to identify the chip in your TV where the signal will be connected. My chip is labeled TDA9377PS/N3/A/1815, and the methods used should work for TDA9377 and TDA9370 chips, but I make no promises. The incoming Component signal first needs to be sent to grounding 75ohm resistor and through 10uf /16V coupling capacitor with + leg facing the chip, according to a China TDA9370 TV schematic. Connect signals to pins 46-(V / Pr / Red), 47-(Y / Green), and 48-(U / Pb / Blue). I chose to connect to top side of the jungle chip.

Finally blanking travels through a 1k0 surface mount resistor from 8v line to pin 45. This component had to be populated on the circuit board to be able to switch on Component transcoding. The tv could only display Composite without this.

Connect your audio lines to front stereo jacks, and don't forget to ground the video lines. The CVI is selected with the channel up/down button on screen, so there's no need to add toggle switches.

[Bad Company]

Long time lurker here, and I've trash picked an Admiral TV with a Sharp CRT.

I'm hoping that it can be RGB modded, I've found the chip is a X2933CE. I've found the schematics for it here :

http://www.datasheetbank.com/X2933CE-Da ... -PDF-Sharp

If I understand this correctly, I want pins 15, 16, 17 for R G B, AND pin 14 for the blanking.

After that I'm kinda lost. Each line should have a resistor to ground, and pin 13 appears to be that.

I Appreciate any help you can provide.

Thanks!
Vince

Yes Pins 14-17 are correct.

Try this for your inputs:

Notes:
-The colored circles are your new RGB inputs.
-The 75Ω resistors are in series with the original resistors, which no longer go directly to ground.



The external video jack (yellow RCA) is your sync. (it's connected to pin 37)

[DfknG]

Hey all,

First attempt for me.

I have a Sony KV-HA21P50.

It has an unpopulated teletext RGB headers that I've tapped into.

When enabling the blanking line I get a black picture, composite is coming through fine.
I am using the 5v supply off the fast blanking line from pin 16 on the scart head.
I used an inline 1kohm to knock down voltage to 4.4v but still nothing.
I used a pair of 1k ohm in parallel to ground grabbing 2.3v after the first but still nothing.
I feel like I'm outside of the blanking range but if not 5v, 4.4v or 2.3v I dont know where I'm going wrong.
If im reading the manual right I believe blanking pin is looking for 3.6v. I dont know if thats just for the OSD though. Unpopulated header may be different?









Probably nightmarish to look at now but after it wasn't working I started to go for function over form and was going to tidy it after.

[Bad Company]

When enabling the blanking line I get a black picture, composite is coming through fine.

Are you seeing composite video at the same time as you are sending the blanking signal? You should not.

I am using the 5v supply off the fast blanking line from pin 16 on the scart head.

Don't use the scart to provide power, use the board's 5v rail to get power. Some devices don't output 5v on the scart blanking pin, so it is better to have a switch on the TV, that you can always activate, when needed.

I tapped the 5v rail at the source, the regulator! Look at the id for yours below, and find the location on the board, then just tap the output pin(5), or anywhere the output pin's trace goes.

*CLICK TO IMAGE TO SEE IT BIGGER*


Your blanking pin is, pin 26 (RGB IN) on your jungle chip. The 4th pin on the header you are using, is NOT connected to pin 26. Pin 4 is the blanking signal OUTPUT, from the micom chip, not the blanking input of the jungle chip. These are separate in the block diagram. (IDK why)

This mod hacks the jungle chip only, and does not modify the function of the micom chip.

This is the same for you MOUMOUH.

...rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else....

Tap-in where DfknG has done so on the board, but DON'T connect your blanking signal there, just the RGB. Use pin 26 on your jungle chip just like the instructions above. Don't forget to use the composite input for your sync signal.

[DfknG]

Are you seeing composite video at the same time as you are sending the blanking signal? You should not.

No im not getting composite video when sending the blanking signal.

Don't use the scart to provide power, use the board's 5v rail to get power. Some devices don't output 5v on the scart blanking pin, so it is better to have a switch on the TV, that you can always activate, when needed.

Makes sense, thanks for the advice

I'll have a go at the above.

I believe that blanking input on that header must connect on other sets as i've seen it used but just not for this set obviously.
Thanks again for your advice.

[Bad Company]

Are you seeing composite video at the same time as you are sending the blanking signal? You should not.

No im not getting composite video when sending the blanking signal.

Don't use the scart to provide power, use the board's 5v rail to get power. Some devices don't output 5v on the scart blanking pin, so it is better to have a switch on the TV, that you can always activate, when needed.

Makes sense, thanks for the advice

I'll have a go at the above.

I believe that blanking input on that header must connect on other sets as i've seen it used but just not for this set obviously.
Thanks again for your advice.

I updated my post above with more info.

[matt]

Followup on adding Component video to Magnavox tv 14MS2331/17. (According to the user manual 20MS2331/17 and 20MS2331/37R are similar.)
Enter the service menu, and goto Options, OP #5. The CVI input select option has a bit value of 8. This value is off meaning 0 value, when my original value is 192. Using the number keys on the remote enter 200. Exit the service menu. According to the instructions the tv should be powered off and unplugged from the wall for at least 10 seconds to assure writing of the data.

If you haven't already its probably time to identify the chip in your TV where the signal will be connected. My chip is labeled TDA9377PS/N3/A/1815, and the methods used should work for TDA9377 and TDA9370 chips, but I make no promises. The incoming Component signal first needs to be sent to grounding 75ohm resistor and through 10uf /16V coupling capacitor with + leg facing the chip, according to a China TDA9730 TV schematic. Connect signals to pins 46-(V / Pr / Red), 47-(Y / Green), and 48-(U / Pb / Blue). I chose to connect to top side of the jungle chip.

Finally blanking travels through a 1k0 surface mount resistor from 8v line to pin 45. This component had to be populated on the circuit board to be able to switch on Component transcoding. The tv could only display Composite without this.

Connect your audio lines to front stereo jacks, and don't forget to ground the video lines. The CVI is selected with the channel up/down button on screen, so there's no need to add toggle switches.

Thanks for posting this! I happen to have one of these TVs that I picked up from the curb a few months ago, and tried playing around with this mod a couple of days ago. It works beautifully - with component enabled I'd have to say it's one of the best looking 14" TVs I've seen. I imagine this would work on most Philips TVs from that era.

Some things I noticed:

- The schematics I found using the TDA937x chip all use 22nF coupling capacitors on the YUV lines. I used .1uF because I had some handy, and it worked fine.

- You can enable S-Video by changing option 5 to 204 (or whatever your initial setting was plus 4). Chroma input is on pin 43 and Luma goes through the front composite jack. As usual, the Chroma input needs a 75 ohm terminating resistor and a coupling capacitor (again, 0.1uf worked for me).

Service manual for the LO3.2U chassis:
https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... nload.html

Info on the TDA937x chip:
https://diagramasde.com/blog/71983/AN-T ... -V1-0.html

[retrozar]

No way I'm watching another OSD snip video in my lifetime. Won't be able to hold down my breakfast. I'd rather get a rectal exam.

As it turns out, the TV was broken. However i did have a similar unit with an identical chassis.

Its funny you should mention the OSD snip, as i noticed there was no reason to cut the RGB lines, i just fed the signal in without cutting anything and it seems to work, however the brightness is too low with 75ohm resistors and too high without them. Is there an area i should be looking at in the manual for the correct values? I see a waveform diagram and 0.5V for the micon controller but there are many values & im not sure which value corresponds to the RGB circuit.

https://elektrotanya.com/toshiba_27a34. ... nload.html

[DfknG]

When enabling the blanking line I get a black picture, composite is coming through fine.

Are you seeing composite video at the same time as you are sending the blanking signal? You should not.

I am using the 5v supply off the fast blanking line from pin 16 on the scart head.

Don't use the scart to provide power, use the board's 5v rail to get power. Some devices don't output 5v on the scart blanking pin, so it is better to have a switch on the TV, that you can always activate, when needed.

I tapped the 5v rail at the source, the regulator! Look at the id for yours below, and find the location on the board, then just tap the output pin(5), or anywhere the output pin's trace goes.

*CLICK TO IMAGE TO SEE IT BIGGER*


Your blanking pin is, pin 26 (RGB IN) on your jungle chip. The 4th pin on the header you are using, is NOT connected to pin 26. Pin 4 is the blanking signal OUTPUT, from the micom chip, not the blanking input of the jungle chip. These are separate in the block diagram. (IDK why)

This mod hacks the jungle chip only, and does not modify the function of the micom chip.

This is the same for you MOUMOUH.

...rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else....

Tap-in where DfknG has done so on the board, but DON'T connect your blanking signal there, just the RGB. Use pin 26 on your jungle chip just like the instructions above. Don't forget to use the composite input for your sync signal.

Thanks for all the advice.
I changed over and am blanking on pin 26 but for some reason its doing exactly the same thing.
I didnt trust my scart head so ive swapped it over and still the same.

I have a G21 also and wanted to see if my methods were bad, it works great!

I have a suspicion the HA21 is after a very specific blanking voltage, I have a buck converter coming so I can play with 1.5-5v and see if that works. If not I dont know what im doing wrong on this set.

[chrisrik]

Hi All - I posted for some help or suggestions in the Sony BA-5 chassis thread here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63622&start=240

I haven't received any responses, so I thought I would ask in this thread, since it probably gets more traffic. To cut to the quick - i did the OSD mux mod on a Sony BA-5 trinitron chassis. The OSD is white instead of green which I beleive is normal. I am still having trouble getting a stable image, but from what I was able to see the image coming in from Windows is also colorless.

Would this be something to do with the inline capacitors before the Jungle chip? Did I break something? Is there any thing I can test, or check?
I'm a newbie, but very persistent..


Thanks,

Chris

[DfknG]

Hi All - I posted for some help or suggestions in the Sony BA-5 chassis thread here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63622&start=240

I haven't received any responses, so I thought I would ask in this thread, since it probably gets more traffic. To cut to the quick - i did the OSD mux mod on a Sony BA-5 trinitron chassis. The OSD is white instead of green which I beleive is normal. I am still having trouble getting a stable image, but from what I was able to see the image coming in from Windows is also colorless.

Would this be something to do with the inline capacitors before the Jungle chip? Did I break something? Is there any thing I can test, or check?
I'm a newbie, but very persistent..


Thanks,

Chris

This may be completely down the wrong track but does the front of your set have a picture mode you can cycle through?
I've had other sets do this when its PAL on NTSC or Vice Versa and I just needed to change to the right video format.

[chrisrik]

There is a picture mode button on the remote, but it just cycles through the different color temperature settings. I will double check, but I believe when I went into the service mode it said NTSC.
I am fairly certain the OSD RBG is kaput for some reason. Just not sure if it from something I did, or it was that way from when I brought it home after buying on craigslist.

Hoping someone may have some knowledge about how the OSD RBG works. I did alot of searching but so far no luck.

[Kavas]

Picked this up at a local Goodwill for cheap. Can anyone tell me if the RGB connector is useful ? Never seen one like it. I am reading it might be a EIAJ rectangular 8 pin plug. Other quick research say it might be digital RGB.









Here's an advertisement from a old Sears magazine.



If this can be converted to Euro Scart that would be cool. If not, what else can I do with it?

[matt]

Picked this up at a local Goodwill for cheap. Can anyone tell me if the RGB connector is useful ? Never seen one like it. I am reading it might be a EIAJ rectangular 8 pin plug. Other quick research say it might be digital RGB.

Your pictures didn't show up for me. But if it looks like the pic in this link, then yes it is almost certainly digital RGB.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... one_of_my/