Code: Select all
ypbpr=0 ; set to 1 for YPbPr on VGA output.
composite_sync=1 ; set to 1 for composite sync on HSync signal of VGA output.I have modified a set with the same Jungle. I notice that on the set I modded there were 0.1uF 50V electrolytic caps on the RGB lines with their positive leg closest to the jungle.Osirus wrote:Garage is back together and I'm working again. I snipped the jumpers on my PCB from the uC and the Jungle and am trying just straight RGB input as a last ditch effort. Essentially my circuit is now this:
All I get with the blanking pulled high is a solid back screen - nothing.Spoiler
Barring the possibility that modding this is not possible, which I don't believe since others have done it with this IC, could my source be setup wrong? I am using a MiSTer with an IO shield connected via VGA and using a VGA breakout connector on my TV. I have this in my mister.ini:
And the sync on green switch off.Code: Select all
ypbpr=0 ; set to 1 for YPbPr on VGA output. composite_sync=1 ; set to 1 for composite sync on HSync signal of VGA output.
Only if there are no resistors between the 5V line and the blanking pin.Shiozaki wrote:8bit guys video i guess left an impression on me that it could cause damage.maxtherabbit wrote:Nothing protects it, nothing needs to. It is a TTL output pin, seeing 5V won't do it any harmShiozaki wrote:
The only thing I don't understand is what protects the microcontroller from getting 5v on the fast blanking pin without a switch, don't you add a diode or something?
Shiozaki wrote:Hello everyone, I've since my last post set the other CRT aside and start working on this RCA model E13320, i really like the look of this one, and looking at the schematics it looks promising.
So if I'm understanding right I need to:
1. lift one leg of resistors RR41-RR38
2. Per the mux chat, since the factory inline resistors are 3.3ohms and there's no diode add 470ohm in the empty holes for RGB input mux.
3. remove the factor resistors to ground at RR534-RR537.
4 from Scart need RGB 75 resistor to ground, fast blanking needs factory value to ground (still new to this, reading values i haven't figured out, what is 820RO?)
5. feed-in RGB signal between the 3.3 and 470 resistors.
6. possibly change capacitors at CV505 CV507 CV509 to 100nfs.
The only thing I don't understand is what protects the microcontroller from getting 5v on the fast blanking pin without a switch, don't you add a diode or something?
Does this sound like I've got the right ideal or am I missing something?
service manual
schematic and pictures
Thank you very much for the help, i was going to wire up my scart connector so 5v went to blanking from there/the console. are there better way then twisting them?MarkOZLAD wrote:Shiozaki wrote:Hello everyone, I've since my last post set the other CRT aside and start working on this RCA model E13320, i really like the look of this one, and looking at the schematics it looks promising.
So if I'm understanding right I need to:
1. lift one leg of resistors RR41-RR38
2. Per the mux chat, since the factory inline resistors are 3.3ohms and there's no diode add 470ohm in the empty holes for RGB input mux.
3. remove the factor resistors to ground at RR534-RR537.
4 from Scart need RGB 75 resistor to ground, fast blanking needs factory value to ground (still new to this, reading values i haven't figured out, what is 820RO?)
5. feed-in RGB signal between the 3.3 and 470 resistors.
6. possibly change capacitors at CV505 CV507 CV509 to 100nfs.
The only thing I don't understand is what protects the microcontroller from getting 5v on the fast blanking pin without a switch, don't you add a diode or something?
Does this sound like I've got the right ideal or am I missing something?
service manual
schematic and pictures
You're looking in the right places but you are a bit off.
You don't want to lift the legs of R38, R39 and R40. They just remain there unchanged.
If you want to use the twist method like the 8 Bit Guy you want to remove resistors RR535, RR536 and RR537. You will replace each of these with 470R and 75R twisted together and soldered back into the holes of the resistors you just removed. The leg of the 75R will go into the hole that is grounded, the leg of the 470R will go into the other hole. The RGB will be injected into the legs that are twisted together. The 75R in the twisted resistors becomes your termination, no need to add more at the scart port.
Note that this assumes that RR535, RR536 and RR537 are through hole type resistors.
I wouldn't change the caps CV505 CV507 CV509 unless you have issues.
For blanking you can use the method the 8 Bit Guy uses in part II of his video. Lift the leg of RR41, solder a wire from the hole left by lifting the resistor to the outside leg of a SDPT switch. Run a 5V line to the other leg of the SPDT switch and then run a wire from the middle pin of the switch to the leg of RR41 that you lifted.
If you want to do that...Shiozaki wrote:Thank you very much for the help, i was going to wire up my scart connector so 5v went to blanking from there/the console.
I originally had it around 3.5V I put in a smaller resistor to match the original circuit. Others with this chassis said they just put 5V on it and it worked.cyborc wrote:try wiring your 5v blanking to a 10k pot. According to the datasheet, the "max" voltage for ys to turn on is 3.6v, but it should probably still turn on with higher voltage...
tiny surface mount, I guess I could try and tombstone some components on purpose, IDK, any input is always welcome.MarkOZLAD wrote:Shiozaki wrote:Hello everyone, I've since my last post set the other CRT aside and start working on this RCA model E13320, i really like the look of this one, and looking at the schematics it looks promising.
So if I'm understanding right I need to:
1. lift one leg of resistors RR41-RR38
2. Per the mux chat, since the factory inline resistors are 3.3ohms and there's no diode add 470ohm in the empty holes for RGB input mux.
3. remove the factor resistors to ground at RR534-RR537.
4 from Scart need RGB 75 resistor to ground, fast blanking needs factory value to ground (still new to this, reading values i haven't figured out, what is 820RO?)
5. feed-in RGB signal between the 3.3 and 470 resistors.
6. possibly change capacitors at CV505 CV507 CV509 to 100nfs.
The only thing I don't understand is what protects the microcontroller from getting 5v on the fast blanking pin without a switch, don't you add a diode or something?
Does this sound like I've got the right ideal or am I missing something?
service manual
schematic and pictures
You're looking in the right places but you are a bit off.
You don't want to lift the legs of R38, R39 and R40. They just remain there unchanged.
If you want to use the twist method like the 8 Bit Guy you want to remove resistors RR535, RR536 and RR537. You will replace each of these with 470R and 75R twisted together and soldered back into the holes of the resistors you just removed. The leg of the 75R will go into the hole that is grounded, the leg of the 470R will go into the other hole. The RGB will be injected into the legs that are twisted together. The 75R in the twisted resistors becomes your termination, no need to add more at the scart port.
Note that this assumes that RR535, RR536 and RR537 are through hole type resistors.
I wouldn't change the caps CV505 CV507 CV509 unless you have issues.
For blanking you can use the method the 8 Bit Guy uses in part II of his video. Lift the leg of RR41, solder a wire from the hole left by lifting the resistor to the outside leg of a SDPT switch. Run a 5V line to the other leg of the SPDT switch and then run a wire from the middle pin of the switch to the leg of RR41 that you lifted.
Your TV has a BA-5 chassis. This thread covers it.BazookaBen wrote:Can anybody recommend a few videos to watch before attempting my first RGB mod?
Will be doing it on a tiny composite only Sony KV-13FM12
Surface mount makes it a pain but all the same concepts apply are there any jumpers on the RGB circuits lines that could provide an easy in?Shiozaki wrote:
tiny surface mount, I guess I could try and tombstone some components on purpose, IDK, any input is always welcome.
https://imgur.com/a/scTNXie
Looks like a single (integrated OSD/Jungle) board however, the chip looks like it has unused RGB In pins (12, 13, 14) you may be able to use.Romariu wrote:How to rgb mod a SAMSUNG CL21A551ML?
Please
Osirus wrote:New TV: Sony KV-20M10. Chassis is BA-2.
The OSD circuit is Digital RGB, but:
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... 465AS.html
It has separate Analog RGB in pins on 16, 17, and 18; as well as separate Ym/Ys pins for Analog RGB on 14 and 15. I haven't opened up the TV yet, but on the schematic it looks like the Analog RGB inputs are just grounded:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/95618 ... =29#manual
Anyone done one of these? Looks cautiously promising. 75ohm terminated RGB with 0.1uF caps to the Analog inputs and > 1.0 to 15 sound like a plan?
but I don't know where to find that.I replaced the existing blanking resistors with the values from the schematic, and then just put a wire from a 5V signal on the board to the non-ground leg of the grounding resistor.
Really, anywhere you can. Look at the schematic for a pin labeled "Vcc" or "Supply Voltage", something like that. Then check the datasheet to see its value, they aren't always 5V so you may have to do a voltage divider once you find it.zFleeman wrote: Also, when pulling 5v for blanking... where do I find the source for that?
Ah, okay, I see where I can get that from the jungle chip.Osirus wrote:Really, anywhere you can. Look at the schematic for a pin labeled "Vcc" or "Supply Voltage", something like that. Then check the datasheet to see its value, they aren't always 5V so you may have to do a voltage divider once you find it.zFleeman wrote: Also, when pulling 5v for blanking... where do I find the source for that?
I did one on a KV-13TR28, which is a BA-1 chassis but has the same jungle chip. I used +5v for blanking (with a 1K resistor), 0.1 uF caps, and 75 ohm termination.Osirus wrote:New TV: Sony KV-20M10. Chassis is BA-2.
The OSD circuit is Digital RGB, but:
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... 465AS.html
It has separate Analog RGB in pins on 16, 17, and 18; as well as separate Ym/Ys pins for Analog RGB on 14 and 15. I haven't opened up the TV yet, but on the schematic it looks like the Analog RGB inputs are just grounded:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/95618 ... =29#manual
Anyone done one of these? Looks cautiously promising. 75ohm terminated RGB with 0.1uF caps to the Analog inputs and > 1.0 to 15 sound like a plan?
Gonna be a bit of a pain to get to. I'll have to snip the pins or try to desolder them and pull them up since all three are soldered directly to a single pad with one resistor pulling them all to ground. No jumpers or legs available to use.matt wrote:I did one on a KV-13TR28, which is a BA-1 chassis but has the same jungle chip. I used +5v for blanking (with a 1K resistor), 0.1 uF caps, and 75 ohm termination.Osirus wrote:New TV: Sony KV-20M10. Chassis is BA-2.
The OSD circuit is Digital RGB, but:
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... 465AS.html
It has separate Analog RGB in pins on 16, 17, and 18; as well as separate Ym/Ys pins for Analog RGB on 14 and 15. I haven't opened up the TV yet, but on the schematic it looks like the Analog RGB inputs are just grounded:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/95618 ... =29#manual
Anyone done one of these? Looks cautiously promising. 75ohm terminated RGB with 0.1uF caps to the Analog inputs and > 1.0 to 15 sound like a plan?
In my case, that TV was practically built to be RGB modded. It has a closed caption card that, if removed, yields a pin header with all the necessary pins and you can do the RGB mod with no soldering. Also, there's a horizontal position switch that can be rerouted to the blanking switch (if you use a DPDT) to maintain screen position when switching between RGB and composite. One of the nice things about this jungle chip is that the analog RGB works fine with the TV's brightness and contrast controls and doesn't interfere with the OSD.
It couldn't hurt to try, but page 27 of the datasheet does seem to indicate that the RGB inputs can be disabled by the micom.
zFleeman wrote:Spongebob TV SB314 Mod Update
It isn't working. I got impatient (a major character flaw of mine) and placed the resistors from Syntax's diagram on the board and hooked everything up, and it's not working. Whenever I disconnect the 5v blanking wire, I can see the original channel select/source blue screen, but there isn't an OSD. I don't think anything is broken, but it's clear to me that I am not using the correct resistor/diode values, and I think I need some more help (more information about this post) if anybody can offer it.
Sharp 13KM100
I just picked this 13 inch crt from a coworker, and I'm actually more hopeful that I can get this one modded with your help. Page 15 of this service manual pretty much shows everything I need to know, I think. I have located the jungle and osd chips on the board I removed from the TV, but I feel like I'm at square one.
I want to RGB mod this thing, and I don't really care if it's the non-OSD mux/toggle switch method.
If I'm looking at the inline resistor values correctly on the source chip (6,800), should I go ahead and order some 1,100 resistors according to this table?
The resistors to ground right before the jungle are 1.8k. Would these be swapped with 75ohm?
Source
Jungle
Thank you for any help. I'm really excited to get these two up and running. Such a neat project.
I did an RGB mod to a 13K-M100 a while back. 1k ohm resistors worked well.MarkOZLAD wrote:The inlines in the RGB lines are 6800 Ohm so the mux resistors are 1100 ohm (1000 ohm would likely be fine).
So send 75 ohm terminated RGB lines into 1100 ohm resistors and then connect to the RGB circuits. The legs of R2024, R2025 and R2026 farthest from micro controller might be good spots to attach wires.
For blanking use the 8 Bit Guy RGB mod part 2 method. Lift the leg of R2027 that is closest to the micro controller and inject 5V into it.
I can do either one. Which would you recommend starting with?MarkOZLAD wrote:1.0Vp-p RGB huh? Very interesting.
I wonder if the termination resistor should be changed to 180 ohm. That should give 1.0Vp-p from external RGB.
Would then use 1600 ohm mux resistors.
I recently modded a JVC with this jungle. (ta1268n)MarkOZLAD wrote:1.0Vp-p RGB huh? Very interesting.
I wonder if the termination resistor should be changed to 180 ohm. That should give 1.0Vp-p from external RGB.
Would then use 1600 ohm mux resistors.
