skum wrote:
F-Bomb wrote:
Or do I just need to change 0.5v to 5v?
You can see the wiring on the third picture of my original post.
The two resistors near the black cable are the voltage divider. I can remove them. Where the 75ohm resistor goes into the board is 5v so I can put the grey wire in there.
The resistor where the black wire is attached is R313 10Kohm. I should be able to put that back into the hole where the Brown wire is.
Let me know if this is correct and I'll make the change and let you know how it goes.
The original R313 10K is most likely just a current limiter (wise) so inject before that. Is R319 populated? Otherwise that's where I'd put a 10K in (the value is not that important, it's simply to avoid drawing too much current when 5V is injected). So between R313 and R319 (which if not there, add a resistor to the pads) is where your switch should simply inject 5V, basically what your drawing shows. At least that's how I'd try it if I was doing it

No guarantees made, and smoke and fire is of course to be expected

Thank You skum.
Your advice has paid off. The results are exactly what I was after.
Sorry mate, but no smoke and fire
The only thing I have to do now is move the picture about 7mm to the right in the service menu.
It also seems to have cleared up the issue I was having with the picture being a little washed out.
Here is the entire mod. (all the stuff shaded in the red area is not populated on the board). All of the BW's are 'bridging wire' (I think) and were removed and replaced with the resistors.



It's amazing. I was able to do this mod with junk and old cables I had lying around.
I took 3 x 75ohm resistors from some old PAL SNES RGB 'retro gaming cables' that I had lying around.
I also used one of these old cables as the cable from the SCART plug and switch to the board.
The S-Video and Audio Jacks were from an old SNES cable.
The 1.5Kohm resistor was from an old PS2 to JPAC cable that I had previously butchered.
The SCART plug was from one of these (below), which I cracked open and de-soldered.

All the other caps and resistors were already on the board, and instead of pulling pins etc, I searched around on the board for spare pads.
The only thing I had to buy was 2 x 2 throw single pole $3 switches. Which I ended up only using 1 of.
So for the total cost of $6 for parts and $10 for the Tv service manual (I couldn't find it for free) I now have a RGB Tv.
Thanks again skum for your help, and the entire history of the thread for the wealth of information here.
Hopefully I have contributed.