TV RGB mod thread

[SEGA-CD]

Looks like you can lift the legs of R2024, R2025, R2026 that are FARTHEST from the micro controller to isolate the OSD RGB, use the empty holes to inject 75R terminated/0.1uF capped RGB. For blanking lift the leg of R2027 that is CLOSEST to the micro controller and inject your 5V into the lifted leg.

Sweet, thanks for the info. So if this works, I can add a mux mod, and if it doesn't I can revert it back to stock? How would I go about testing to see if it works, do I just directly apply an rgb signal to the respective points (from say the DIN port on the Sega Genesis)? Also what parts would I need for the testing phase, just wire, 75ohm resistors, and 0.1uf caps? Sorry for all the questions I just want to avoid any issues.

[MarkOZLAD]

Looks like you can lift the legs of R2024, R2025, R2026 that are FARTHEST from the micro controller to isolate the OSD RGB, use the empty holes to inject 75R terminated/0.1uF capped RGB. For blanking lift the leg of R2027 that is CLOSEST to the micro controller and inject your 5V into the lifted leg.

Sweet, thanks for the info. So if this works, I can add a mux mod, and if it doesn't I can revert it back to stock? How would I go about testing to see if it works, do I just directly apply an rgb signal to the respective points (from say the DIN port on the Sega Genesis)? Also what parts would I need for the testing phase, just wire, 75ohm resistors, and 0.1uf caps? Sorry for all the questions I just want to avoid any issues.

I think you need to do your own research from here. Please read the Wikipedia page on Scart , (this makes me feel a little sick) read the first post of this thread and check out my mux diagram.

[SEGA-CD]

I think you need to do your own research from here. Please read the Wikipedia page on Scart , (this makes me feel a little sick) read the first post of this thread and check out my mux diagram.

Alright, I'll do that and report back when I can. Thanks. I read in another post involving digital rgb input that only red green and blue will show up and all other colors will be dark/black, is that what I'll see if it's not compatible?

[MarkOZLAD]

I think you need to do your own research from here. Please read the Wikipedia page on Scart , (this makes me feel a little sick) read the first post of this thread and check out my mux diagram.

Alright, I'll do that and report back when I can. Thanks. I read in another post involving digital rgb input that only red green and blue will show up and all other colors will be dark/black, is that what I'll see if it's not compatible?

I believe if it is set for digital RGB, if the inputted RGB ever goes over the threshold to be "digital On" you'll get something, otherwise nothing.

[SEGA-CD]

I think you need to do your own research from here. Please read the Wikipedia page on Scart , (this makes me feel a little sick) read the first post of this thread and check out my mux diagram.

Alright, I'll do that and report back when I can. Thanks. I read in another post involving digital rgb input that only red green and blue will show up and all other colors will be dark/black, is that what I'll see if it's not compatible?

I believe if it is set for digital RGB, if the inputted RGB ever goes over the threshold to be "digital On" you'll get something, otherwise nothing.

Okay thanks again.

[Atma]

Hello, I am a lover of retro games, really new in the mod world, it is really amazing what can be achieved with the RGB mod and I definitely want to try it, I recently went to Dallas and managed to get a Sharp CRT TV model 27K- S100 totally new sealed , in a garage sale , since then I've been researching on the subject of RGB and according to everything I read I think I'm lucky because as I see my TV is the easiest to modify I think, I made a diagram but I'm not sure it's correct, I ask the help of experts in the field, many of whom have seen their incredible videos on YouTube, you guy in this forum are great , unfortunately I still have doubts in certain things as some terms I do not know, I leave my diagram and leave the link of the service manual of my TV, I hope if someone has a TV like mine can help me, many thanks in advance.

Diagram: Need change or ad something else?

para subir fotos

Original TV Service Manual:
https://elektrotanya.com/sharp_27ks100_ ... nload.html

[undone.evil]

i think this got back posted somehow, can you guys help me out

hello i hope you guys can help me figure out what the hell im doing.

i have a kv-20s20 and it uses a cxa1870s jungle chip. i had read earlier in this thread that it could not be modded because it is digital well i read that after i started trying to rgb mod it.
i am testing this using a master system and genesis. this tv is odd because i can see the rgb signal on the tv whether i have 5v on the osdblk or not but when there is no 5v the brightness and colors are dim
also i see the menu with or without 5v on osdblk which leads me to believe that the rgb is for closed caption only.

i have been messing with this tv for the better part of a week trying many different configurations but i finally got a decent image after i injected the rgb signal right on the pins of the cc chip so i removed it from that location and injected into an empty header location just before the jungle and tried to simulate the circuit between the cc chip and jungle chip. after experimenting a little more i have a very good image on screen that im happy with.

i have very limited knowledge of electronics but i do know how electricity works and i work on refrigeration equipment so have to deal with high voltages and low voltage control circuits so if you guys could help me understand whats going on here and how i could do it better i would greatly appreciate it. for instance i dont understand what the capacitors going to ground are for in the original circuit, why changing the resistor values on the rgb from the genesis changed color and brightness even though there not ghanging the voltage (im guessing its changing amplitude), or why the sync from the genesis needs a resistor or i just get a black screen.

i drew a diagram of the circuit between the cc chip and jungle chip but the scan is kind of crappy and hard to make out blown up 500% so i could not read the value of some of the components and the values i have could be wrong. there is also some kind of load on the osdblk line after the first resistor but what it is is unreadable in the original diagram. also i imagine that this mod would not work with standard scart cables for these systems seing as they add extra resistors and capacitors in the circuit.

service manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/96015 ... 20KV-20S20

jungle chip datasheet: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 1870S.html

here are some pictures of my modifications and the results. thank you.

[plasticbugs]

I picked up a tiny 9" trinitron (Sony KV-8AD10) at my local thrift shop for $10 and would love to RGB mod it. It has the old-style green OSD text. I found the schematic and it looks like the OSD chip's RGB output pretty much goes directly into the neck board without passing through the jungle chip. I couldn't find the exact schematic for the Sanyo Jungle IC in this TV, but the chip that looks pretty much identical to the one in my set doesn't have RGB inputs.

Only the green output from the OSD/CPU chip is getting sent pretty much directly to the neckboard -- it's connected to a resistor (220 Ohm) and 47p capacitor to ground. Then it goes through a 10uh inductor coil and another 22uh inductor coil, through a transistor and then it meets up with the green video signal on the neckboard.

The green OSD signal is labeled CHR here:


It looks like the RGB output is ~4.5V TTL from the OSD chip based on the Sanyo IC's datasheet.

TV schematic is here.

Is this a lost cause for an easy mod since there's no intercepting of the OSD signal between the OSD chip and the jungle chip?

Edit: I'm going to try to source the transistors and inductors for my red and blue RGB signals to match the green signal and see if that works.

[comp1demon]

Modding a 32" JVC D series with RGB possible?

If so any hints where to start?

TB1253AN is the jungle I believe

This is the model




At mikejmoffitt I found your D series modding website http://mikejmoffitt.com/articles/0032-tvrgb.html

What was exact model number? Was hoping you could help me out please.

Thanks in advance

[maxtherabbit]

Modding a 32" JVC D series with RGB possible?

If so any hints where to start?

TB1253AN is the jungle I believe

This is the model




At mikejmoffitt I found your D series modding website http://mikejmoffitt.com/articles/0032-tvrgb.html

What was exact model number? Was hoping you could help me out please.

Thanks in advance

that's a really easy chassis - there is a nice unused PiP header footprint on the board that has your 3 colors and Ys/Ym both from the micro and to the jungle - all you have to do is remove some 0ohm jumper resistors and replace them with 1206 package diodes and then follow the mux chart / diagram in ozlad's sig

[comp1demon]

Modding a 32" JVC D series with RGB possible?

If so any hints where to start?

TB1253AN is the jungle I believe

This is the model




At mikejmoffitt I found your D series modding website http://mikejmoffitt.com/articles/0032-tvrgb.html

What was exact model number? Was hoping you could help me out please.

Thanks in advance

that's a really easy chassis - there is a nice unused PiP header footprint on the board that has your 3 colors and Ys/Ym both from the micro and to the jungle - all you have to do is remove some 0ohm jumper resistors and replace them with 1206 package diodes and then follow the mux chart / diagram in ozlad's sig

I am super new to this.. To be honest kinda of intimidated by the diagram, chart and language as I am not a Electronics engineer.
Always was able to follow tutorials for modding but this seems easy and hard at the same time.

OK so I get the PiP header... It has RGB But Ys and Ym I have no idea what that is.
I read 90% of this entire thread and it seems like the Switch method is replaced with this method your talking about. MUX

So here is where I am confused.

I get the whole Removing 0 ohm resistors. I would have to know which 0 ohm resistor points to remove and replace, I assume These will work for the 1206 package diodes? Basicly I would use my hot air or hot Tweezers to pull the 0 ohm resistors off and solder these in their place?

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/bour ... lsrc=aw.ds

The Diagram to me is ultra confusing.

So I was hoping someone did it already or could explain it in baby steps.. kinda lay it out in a step by step tutorial.

Based on the MUX diagram it looks like more than just a few resistors need to be replaced I see like 5 areas where things need to be pulled and replaced.

So hoping someone can help me out, help me understand this and get it done.

Thanks again

[skum]

I am super new to this.. To be honest kinda of intimidated by the diagram, chart and language as I am not a Electronics engineer.
Always was able to follow tutorials for modding but this seems easy and hard at the same time.

OK so I get the PiP header... It has RGB But Ys and Ym I have no idea what that is.
I read 90% of this entire thread and it seems like the Switch method is replaced with this method your talking about. MUX

So here is where I am confused.

I get the whole Removing 0 ohm resistors. I would have to know which 0 ohm resistor points to remove and replace, I assume These will work for the 1206 package diodes? Basicly I would use my hot air or hot Tweezers to pull the 0 ohm resistors off and solder these in their place?

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/bour ... lsrc=aw.ds

The Diagram to me is ultra confusing.

So I was hoping someone did it already or could explain it in baby steps.. kinda lay it out in a step by step tutorial.

Based on the MUX diagram it looks like more than just a few resistors need to be replaced I see like 5 areas where things need to be pulled and replaced.

So hoping someone can help me out, help me understand this and get it done.

Thanks again

Ys/Ym is the switch pin that makes the jungle IC switch to the external RGB inputs. You use the Mux diagram to figure out which resistors you need to inline with your signal to make the proper video signal levels, in your case 0.7Vpp, which as the OSD has 2.2K resistors in-line, means you should use 300 Ohm if you don't put in the diodes, and if you do, you should use 390 Ohm instead.
In the CRT Collective thread I point out where the resistors should be in your model. If you change them, align the diode with "the line" away from CN002.

[comp1demon]

I am super new to this.. To be honest kinda of intimidated by the diagram, chart and language as I am not a Electronics engineer.
Always was able to follow tutorials for modding but this seems easy and hard at the same time.

OK so I get the PiP header... It has RGB But Ys and Ym I have no idea what that is.
I read 90% of this entire thread and it seems like the Switch method is replaced with this method your talking about. MUX

So here is where I am confused.

I get the whole Removing 0 ohm resistors. I would have to know which 0 ohm resistor points to remove and replace, I assume These will work for the 1206 package diodes? Basicly I would use my hot air or hot Tweezers to pull the 0 ohm resistors off and solder these in their place?

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/bour ... lsrc=aw.ds

The Diagram to me is ultra confusing.

So I was hoping someone did it already or could explain it in baby steps.. kinda lay it out in a step by step tutorial.

Based on the MUX diagram it looks like more than just a few resistors need to be replaced I see like 5 areas where things need to be pulled and replaced.

So hoping someone can help me out, help me understand this and get it done.

Thanks again

Ys/Ym is the switch pin that makes the jungle IC switch to the external RGB inputs. You use the Mux diagram to figure out which resistors you need to inline with your signal to make the proper video signal levels, in your case 0.7Vpp, which as the OSD has 2.2K resistors in-line, means you should use 300 Ohm if you don't put in the diodes, and if you do, you should use 390 Ohm instead.
In the CRT Collective thread I point out where the resistors should be in your model. If you change them, align the diode with "the line" away from CN002.

Thanks for that explanation.

Hoping someone like Mark Will help me out a bit more to "get it all".

[Atma]

Hello again, my last proyect (SHARP 27") was stolen from my office a few days ago , but I found a new TV (SYLVANIA 19" Model: 6419TA) I already try the mod and almost get it, color and image qualitiy seems good, but have some issues with SYNC signal, because my image keeps rollin verticaly, reading the service manual found only 2 points to get SYNC, one from Tuner IF which rolls verticaly, and another from VIdeo IN composite, which rolls vertical and horizontal too when connect the signal there :/, I cant put the tv on Video because dont have the TV Remote, some say I must switch to video in order to mi signal be recognized, any idea what I can do? Thanks in advance.

Sorry for my bad english






SERVICE MANUAL For Sylvania 6419TA:
https://elektrotanya.com/symphonic_sylv ... nload.html

[MarkOZLAD]

Not sure why you aren’t getting horizontal sync when you’re on TV sync but it may be because of the way you wired the sync or because of non standard sync from the Pi.

You won’t get any sync from the AV port until you change the TV to AV channel. Need to get a remote.

[Atma]

Not sure why you aren’t getting horizontal sync when you’re on TV sync but it may be because of the way you wired the sync or because of non standard sync from the Pi.

You won’t get any sync from the AV port until you change the TV to AV channel. Need to get a remote.

You were right Mark, the whole problem was a Pi configuration, downloading the latest version of the RGB-Pi OS solve te real problem and almost everything looks great, except for a small synchronization problem at the top of the screen, here i dont know if it is a software or hardware problem on my tv, but beyond that all the rest is perfect, thank you very much for the advice

[MarkOZLAD]

I’ve encountered the same thing with my RGB-Pi on some sets. This is the note I got back from the creator.

[Atma]

But Mark where can I find that path? I already enter the Iso and the mounted image in the SD card, but cant find that config file, on the oficial support forums for the RGB-Pi comment on too about the config with a similar path for the file, but again cant find it

[sofakng]

This might be a dumb question, but...

Do the modified RGB TVs accept high amplitude RGB from arcade boards (i.e. 2-5v p-p) or do they still only accept 0.7v p-p?

[skum]

This might be a dumb question, but...

Do the modified RGB TVs accept high amplitude RGB from arcade boards (i.e. 2-5v p-p) or do they still only accept 0.7v p-p?

Most jungles I've seen only do 0.5Vpp and 0.7Vpp.

[MarkOZLAD]

This might be a dumb question, but...

Do the modified RGB TVs accept high amplitude RGB from arcade boards (i.e. 2-5v p-p) or do they still only accept 0.7v p-p?

Just requires some resistors added on Jamma RGB and sync. I used 500R pots on my RGB lines and a 1K resistor on the arcade I built this year with a modded consumer CRT.

[ebzero89]

Hello all, I have a Sony Trinitron KV-27S26 I'm looking to mod and then mount in an arcade cabinet. This tv has an AA-2D chassis. I saw earlier in the thread that someone has successfully modded this tv but there wasn't much in the way of details. My basic question aside from "how exactly should I do this" is basically, should I just wire up the resistors and stuff I'll need on a bread board or try to put them all inside a cable and use scart or vga as an input on the tv? I think I have a basic understanding of what the goal of this stuff is but I'm not really sure how to go about it correctly. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: I found the post on page 82 that had all the information I need. I had overlooked it on my first pass through that page. I have found a chassis to replace my broken one in my arcade cab so I don't think I need to do all the pot stuff anymore and can just use my supergun as I normally would. Just to verify, I'd need a Female(?) Scart jack, the resistors outlined in DJO_Maverick's post, and some wire, plus something to modify the the TV case to mount the Scart jack. Is that everything or do I also need anything else?

[LuckyDay]

Has anyone ever used component (Green) as their sync source (set I'm working on will not sync on any composite inputs for some reason) and seen faint rolling interference on the image when the set is blanking for RGB?

I have checked and rechecked out routing of cables, added shielding, and can't seem to get it to go away. I'm at a loss for where this interference is coming from.

Model is a BA-5D set (27FS12), and I'm using resistor combo of 1000/100 (no diodes). RGB image is coming through bright and clear and looks excellent other than the very slight rolling interference I see (mainly seen when viewing solid colors).

[Pikkon]

My set is also a BA-5D that I modded with the old method,before the mux came to be and sync with component works great.

I get the same interference as you,it's really not to bad but it's there enough but I did see on pal sony sets how it's wired for blanking,been meaning to try it to see if that could make a difference.
https://imgur.com/ASQx3a6

[LuckyDay]

My set is also a BA-5D that I modded with the old method,before the mux came to be and sync with component works great.

I get the same interference as you,it's really not to bad but it's there enough but I did see on pal sony sets how it's wired for blanking,been meaning to try it to see if that could make a difference.
https://imgur.com/ASQx3a6

Yeah, and honestly while I'm playing a game, I either can barely see it, or can't see it at all. I am modding this set for someone else, so it's good to know it's possibly a symptom of the chassi/component sync in general.

I also think it's easier to see while standing 1-2 feet from the set since that's how I test on my workbench. It's a 27" set, and sitting 4-6 feet away I doubt it would be noticeable at all.

[goldendark007]

Ok.. time for any update! I will edit the post with pics as soon as I have the chance. I completed the mod and I am fairly certain I did something incorrectly. Right off the bat, the image is fuzzy. When I turn the unit on, the word "Input" comes up extremely blurry, but then sharpens up. This occurs with nothing plugged in. I am also not sure if the colors are correct. "Input" is red.. but from what I remember it was green. I could be mistaken. I will take a picture of me increasing the volume so you can get an idea. When removing the Surface mount resistors I may have damaged a pad. I have no idea if this would affect the clarity of the image or the colors but if so - my bad!

The other screwjob is the SCART input. Plugging my newly RGB modded (by me) SNES or N64 results in the black background shifting (Will post pic) or the word "Input" blowing out. Seems to be fine when I remove the composite RCA cable to cut sync. Plugging in just the green from my Wii using Component cables gives a fairly clear image (looking at the warning text for start up).

EDIT: Okay so some fiddling has now made it so that the SCART input semi reads the N64. I was attempting to start Goldeneye and I could sorta make out this dark black and red image.

I am going to go back to the drawing board and rewire my SCART head, but if I can get some input (See what I did there?) on the image blurriness or options for rewire the inputs on the pads then it would be appreciated. If not, well.. then I will update ya'll at the next step. (I am also considering removing the wires and running them directly to the Jungle IC - call me crazy if you will).

Thanks again for all the help! And sorry to disappoint (I really thought I had this considering the other RGB related mods and repros I have been doing lately).

[MarkOZLAD]

Sounds like the green circuit has an issue if the OSD was green and is now red.

Have to check everything with a multimeter, in resistance mode. Make sure you have continuity ~0 ohms when you should just have a complete circuit, also check resistance to ground and make sure each of R,G and B read the same.

Take photos where you removed the surface mount resistors. Look for possible issues.

[MarkOZLAD]

Don’t worry about disappointing anyone. If you knew only how long it took me to do my first mod and the errors I’ve made....

[samoeda]

I found this here on the neckboard, and now? how do I connect a supernintendo(SNES) here ?? I have supernintendo but I have no rgb type cable my super nintendo is disassembly as I connect the wires right inside it with solder and I make a cable would have how to do it?

If you want help on this forum please provide the model number of the set and exactly what you want to do. Do you want Scart RGB connection?

This is not an easy task and requires some hard work and study on your part. We are not here to do this for you. Please learn the layout of your chassis schematic, take photos of the board.

DO NOT SOLDER WIRES DIRECTLY TO THE NECKBOARD.

Hi Mark, I'm trying to modify this LG Flatron RP29F35A, the Scart JK201 input has the suppressed components as you already know, so I went straight to Jungle IC which is a Micronas VCT 49xxx, soldered the RGB 77, 76, 75 pins straight into it (Comes from PIP is RGB Ext) and tried to power the Fasting Blanking Pin 78 with an external 5V USB source but did not go into RGB mode the screen is only can you help me my friend?

[retrooo]

Hello there!
I've been recommended to register and ask here about getting RGB into my monitor.
This is the monitor I've got. It's a JVC TM-90PSN

You cannot easily mod this TV for analog RGB. It's missing an RGB clamp circuit. Stick with more modern sets 1995+.

I have the same samsung tv i have some knowledge on rgb but i cant figure it out ,am lost to find where to insert rgb lines and right resistors can you show me what to do thanks