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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 5:07 pm 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 61
Location: Florida
HellRazor wrote:
Hi guys , after some days busy i finally get time back to work on my 14 set, i have some doubt here that i need to confirm as these are smd resistors and i dont want to destroy the tv by doing the wrong thing. So as Syntax instructs me i need to replace those 0R bridge resistors with some 100n caps, my doubt is i need to replace just the R,G,B (R320, R321,R322) ones or also the blank YS (R319) one?


I just modded a sony very similar to yours and mine had no resisters going to the captioning decoder.

All I did was remove it and added some 104 caps and 75ohm resisters to ground and 5v to the YS,cool thing I got to keep the osd as well.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 8:32 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
Quote:
I just modded a sony very similar to yours and mine had no resisters going to the captioning decoder.

All I did was remove it and added some 104 caps and 75ohm resisters to ground and 5v to the YS,cool thing I got to keep the osd as well.


Cant thank you enough man thanks thanks! was trying to figure out the thing for hours, so just to confirm the captioning decoder is that "B board" from my pics? i can just discard it and the set still gonna works?

No need to put 104 cap on the Blank right? just on the rgb external lines? i not get the cap use can you help me figure out?

i found some 104 caps here but they are giant, did you use ceramic? thanks again!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 8:59 pm 


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Joined: 07 Apr 2012
Posts: 14
HellRazor wrote:
No need to put 104 cap on the Blank right?

Correct. Only required for the RGB signals.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 10:20 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
Paradroid wrote:
Correct. Only required for the RGB signals.

thanks! can i simple route that capacitors to another point like on the jungle pins or on the captioning area? i not have smd capacitors here so im thinking about just remove the 0R resistors and jumper the traces.
OK so here what i did so far:
Solder all wires to that board
Spoiler: show
Image

i then solder the three 104 caps to a RCA jack:
Spoiler: show
Image

Put the RGB lines on that jack:
Spoiler: show
Image

more images:
https://imgur.com/a/saJHFbb
Am in doing it right? now time to proceed with the smd resistors remove
EDIT: found the little ones:
Spoiler: show
Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 4:59 am 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 61
Location: Florida
I removed the decoder board and just solderd to the port.

As for the smd resisters check to see what value there are,if there 0 ohm I wouldn't even remove them.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 9:38 am 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
Got 10K on each of them so im going proceed with the removal.If i let the decoder board i lose OSD? I also got continuity between 9V and 5V points of the board, thats kindda of normal or i short something here? thank you all for the help!
EDIT: went ahead and remove the smds and jump the traces:
Spoiler: show
Image

the traces are so thin that one of them almost took off the board, but i think everything still allright here


Last edited by HellRazor on Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:40 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 10:35 am 


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Posts: 61
Location: Florida
Nope,if you look at the CXA1465AS the OSD uses digital rgb.
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... 465AS.html

After you remove the board just make sure your getting 5v correctly for blanking.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:24 am 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
Pikkon wrote:
Nope,if you look at the CXA1465AS the OSD uses digital rgb.
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... 465AS.html

After you remove the board just make sure your getting 5v correctly for blanking.


ok, i forget to ask you just to confirm, no need to put any resistor on the dpdt switch right? thank you!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:37 am 


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Location: Florida
If you mean for blanking then 5v should be fine,it's what I'm using or you can use 5v from your console so you wont even need to wire up a switch.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:41 am 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
Pikkon wrote:
If you mean for blanking then 5v should be fine,it's what I'm using.

yes the blanking switch, going solder the wires directly so, thanks again!
Edit: it works! it works! =D https://imgur.com/a/hBrrPLg
im still having the same color problems on my Saturn, think the console is just dying maybe
but anyway amazing colors, get the OSD and nearly zero interference, very very clear image
Cant thank you guys enough! really apreciatte all your kind support
Here i mark all the connections in case someone going to do it again: https://imgur.com/a/gESoUqz


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 12:35 am 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
hey guys (sorry for question after question =3) just a quick question here, going start a KV-1441B (yeah i not realize i get so similar sets until i start to open them as theres no model number outside chassis on this one), can i put the RGB External lines directly on that PAL Decoder? i think its TDA-8217 the name, so similar to the 1440B but not have that CN101 connector, i simple cant read the capacitors and resistors numbers too as the manual quality is terrible but going check on board:
Spoiler: show
Image

Thousands of thanks! :)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 7:08 am 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Location: Columbus, OH
Sony 13M42 success!

The picture looked good originally, but I could tell something was off. I had the spdt switch wired with a 1k resistor inline on the blanking side, and that was preventing that switch from having any effect on the image. Basically, I had a composite picture regardless of which way it was switched.

I removed the 1k resistor and voila, night and day difference. Before and after pics below (Generic Sonic 2 because it's all I have available through SCART at the moment). I realize this is also the problem I was facing on my 27V42, so I'm excited to remove the resistor there and see what difference it makes.

Super happy with how this turned out. I do have one question... am I risking anything by using no resistor as mentioned in previous guides on my SPDT switch?

This is what I was referencing when seeing that I needed a 1k resistor on the blanking cable. But a 1k doesn't seem to allow the blanking to activate correctly. I'm getting 5v off the same pin mentioned in the schematic.

Guide Schematic:
Spoiler: show
Image


Here is where I have the blanking running to on the board from the switch:
Spoiler: show
Image

Composite:
Spoiler: show
Image


RGB:
Spoiler: show
Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 7:58 pm 


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Posts: 14
LuckyDay wrote:
Sony 13M42 success!

Congrats! Those before and after pictures are gold.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 4:05 am 



Joined: 30 Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Hey guys,

Thanks to all of the input on here, I was able to successfully mod an RCA CTC203 chassis (LA7612N jungle) TV, and have successfully connected both VGA and a Neo Geo MVS1 pcb through the JAMMA connector. My RGB lines are all terminated according to the specs on the first page (75 ohm resistors to ground and then a ~0.1uF capacitor in series to the RGB input). The color is looking outstanding from VGA, and just a tad bright from the Neo Geo board (but just adjusting brightness and contrast in the OSD cleans that up pretty well). I have my sync connected to the composite input.

However, I do have some smearing/ghosting from certain colors on certain backgrounds. Also, on certain solid colors, I am getting some vertical "banding?" (see pics). I read that people used in-line caps to clean it, but I don't have a clue what caps I should be using to do this. I also tried soldering sync to pin 38 (Y-in), but all I got was a black screen. VGA syncs immediately, the MVS board looks scrambled for < 1 sec, then syncs very well. On occasion, the entire screen will jump slightly to the right (maybe a quarter of an inch), and randomly pop back to the original position. It doesn't happen often enough for me to want to go back to my extremely burnt-in Electrohome G07 chassis/tube though :) The clarity of the picture is just a night and day difference!

I did leave everything between the OSD chip and the jungle chip, with a toggle switch on blanking so I can still access the menu. I soldered RGB (with the cap and resister to ground) directly to the jungle on pins 34 (red), 35 (green), and 36 (blue), and sync to the board where the composite jack's leg goes. Is there a better place to inject the sync signal than composite for me? And is leaving the OSD connected to the RGB pins on the jungle causing the interference?

Does anyone have any recommendations? And is the banding due to sync issues? Sorry, I don't have a good pic of the smearing, it's hard to take pictures of a CRT without a bunch of scan lines in it :)

Jungle LA7612N pinout:
Spoiler: show
Image


Banding:
Spoiler: show
Image


Before mounting in the cabinet:
Spoiler: show
Image


And a picture of the TV running mounted in my MVS cab :)
Spoiler: show
Image


Service manual (close to mine, but my board layout is slightly different and missing several things): https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... 203-17330/

It does, interestingly, have the whole built-in TV guide, complete with an ARM SOC, RAM, and all on another board. But it doesn't have the connector for S-Video, the associated comb filter circuit or IC for it, or the PIP board socket :(

Last of all, thank you everyone for sharing your setups and wisdom. I couldn't have done this without this forum!


Last edited by jkchr1s on Sun Feb 03, 2019 12:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 5:46 am 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Location: Columbus, OH
27V42, almost there. Solved the blanking issue. Again, as was the case with the 13" on the BA-4D, no resistor required on the blanking signal from the R28 to the switch. Removing that allows the switch to turn the SCART port to RGB mode. Anyone who has input on whether this is safe to run this 5V voltage without a resistor or another value might work better, please let me know. But in my limited testing so far, it holds up fine.

I now have G and B, but no R. I think this one should be easy to troubleshoot. There's another person in this thread that had a similar issue, I just need to browse through the entire thread to find the possible solutions (I assume the R line is being interfered with, came loose, something of that sort).

Still though, super clear on the sharpness, night and day from composite. Can't wait to see how this looks when I solve the Red issue.

Spoiler: show
Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 1:57 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
So that miss of red color can be related to the tv too?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2019 2:23 pm 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Location: Columbus, OH
HellRazor wrote:
So that miss of red color can be related to the tv too?


Wouldn't think so in this case, think it's my wiring.

Red and all colors display fine when you flip the blanking switch back to composite. So it's only in direct RGB mode there's a problem.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 4:01 am 



Joined: 30 Jan 2019
Posts: 6
Hi guys,

I have a KV-27V10 that I have been trying to mod. I have set it up exactly as described in the OP diagram. Resistors to ground and capacitors on the RGB input lines. When I switch to my injected input I get a white screen and it persists whether I have something feeding signal or not. Switch back to normal operation and everything is fine, black screen on video inputs and OSD is crisp. So, maybe this set requires some other tuning of the input signal? Here are some photos:

https://imgur.com/a/VZB5AjZ

Test pattern is from SNES over RGB.

Thanks for any assistance.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:19 am 



Joined: 31 Jan 2019
Posts: 1
Hey everyone!

I need some help here. I have a LCD TV LG 20LS1R (Brazilian multi-region model) and I want to mod it for RGB. The problem is that I have no idea how to do that :-)

I have good soldering skills as I modded a bunch of consoles but I need some tips regarding where i have to solder things and which resistors my be needed.

I would appreciate any help :-)

The Service Manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jqddVjinweDoSQsnPJnoNoS_7-vjLhp8/view?usp=sharing


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 6:08 pm 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Location: Columbus, OH
Sony 27V42, opened it up, redid all the wiring entirely more cleanly and carefully.

Still have no red in the picture. The only connection I didn't redo is the connection from red to the resistor on R26, so I guess I'll have to pull that up and see what's up there.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 10:17 pm 



Joined: 13 Oct 2015
Posts: 19
Okay so I have this CRT that has TTL OSD RGB inputs BUT lists in the chassis service manual as being able to support SCART. I remember reading a year or so ago about a CRT mod where they enabled the SCART setting and fitted a connection.

Found the chassis service manual and looks like it can support Scart in and Scart out but doesn't come hooked up on USA models. Page 117 describes how UOC (7200) can have the these two connections enabled.

https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... nload.html

Okay so Pin1 on the jungle ic looks like it controls weather SCART is enabled or not. On USA models they use YUV inputs and I'm guessing those same inputs can also be switched to analog rgb inputs.

Looks like in this section it says these inputs can either handle RGB or YUV depending on the STATUS1 state. It also shows 22nf caps if using YUV specifically so this leads me to believe it can handle RGB signals depending on the status of STATE1. Probably just jump those caps out.

https://imgur.com/a/yzIbI1T

In the next picture below it shows how PIN1 is for STATUS1 and if using YUV there is a 100 ohm resistor inline, which mine has. For optional RGB it has a weird symbol, but I think it means just a straight jump to pin 1 jumping the resistor. What do you guys think?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 12:33 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 487
darknezz19 wrote:
Okay so I have this CRT that has TTL OSD RGB inputs BUT lists in the chassis service manual as being able to support SCART. I remember reading a year or so ago about a CRT mod where they enabled the SCART setting and fitted a connection.

Found the chassis service manual and looks like it can support Scart in and Scart out but doesn't come hooked up on USA models. Page 117 describes how UOC (7200) can have the these two connections enabled.

https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... nload.html

Okay so Pin1 on the jungle ic looks like it controls weather SCART is enabled or not. On USA models they use YUV inputs and I'm guessing those same inputs can also be switched to analog rgb inputs.

Looks like in this section it says these inputs can either handle RGB or YUV depending on the STATUS1 state. It also shows 22nf caps if using YUV specifically so this leads me to believe it can handle RGB signals depending on the status of STATE1. Probably just jump those caps out.

https://imgur.com/a/yzIbI1T

In the next picture below it shows how PIN1 is for STATUS1 and if using YUV there is a 100 ohm resistor inline, which mine has. For optional RGB it has a weird symbol, but I think it means just a straight jump to pin 1 jumping the resistor. What do you guys think?


I believe you will need to work out how to set the service menu option bits to enable RGB. Maybe need to find out the model number of a TV with same chassis but with Scart and then identify which option bit has to be changed. The service manual doesn't say what bits do what.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:17 am 


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Location: Columbus, OH
Welp, I guess things like this happen when you're working on a 20 year old TV...

I think I had figured out the no red issue on my mod. I pulled the board, re-soldered the ext Red after the inline resistor just to make sure the connection was good. Flipped the board over and took a look at the R86 resistor on the back, and there was solder bridging where the resistor used to be. Cleaned that up nice.

Put the board back into the set, no power. Took it out, inspected, re-plugged in everything... no power.

Took it out again, took a closer look, and found this on the HV section of the board where the power button cable leads.

Image

The pic is before I cleaned up most of the white goo on top of the cap. It's not adhesive, I can clean it up with a paper towel (it wipes off, it's not solid). It was all down the side and over on the metal wall nearby too.

I'm not sure I've seen a blown capacitor where the cap wasn't bulging or burst, and the black on the bottom looks like adhesive to me, but I could be wrong on that. Need an expert opinion, is this my problem?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:22 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 487
> and the black on the bottom looks like adhesive to me, but I could be wrong on that

I have seen adhesive used in those spots before, I believe you are correct.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 5:24 am 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 114
Location: Columbus, OH
MarkOZLAD wrote:
> and the black on the bottom looks like adhesive to me, but I could be wrong on that

I have seen adhesive use in those spots before, I believe you are correct.


Have you seen a bad cap leak white out of the top without bursting or cracking? This stuff definitely isn't adhesive on top. I cleaned it all up. And these big caps are slightly different than the smaller ones I'm used to using with the metal tops.

Actually you know what, I can just remove this thing and test it out. These big ones are simple to replace.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 6:57 am 



Joined: 13 Oct 2015
Posts: 19
MarkOZLAD wrote:
I believe you will need to work out how to set the service menu option bits to enable RGB. Maybe need to find out the model number of a TV with same chassis but with Scart and then identify which option bit has to be changed. The service manual doesn't say what bits do what.


I found a service manual with option bits but doesn't look like anything there for RGB SCART.

http://monitor.espec.ws/files/philips_l ... n__108.pdf

I still think it's possible that Status1 pin could control if the inputs are YUV or RGB. I found this extra info about Satus1 and Satus2 pins in a Phillips Euro chassis that uses the same chip.

Code:
9.7.5 In- and Output Selection
For the control of the input and output selections, there are
three lines:
• STATUS1 This signal provides information to the
microprocessor on whether a video signal is available on
the SCART1 AV input and output port.
– 0 to 2 V: INTERNAL 4:3
– 4.5 to 7 V: EXTERNAL 16:9
– 9.5 to 12 V: EXTERNAL 4:3
• STATUS2 This signal provides information to the
microprocessor on whether a video signal is available on
the SCART2 AV input and output port (signal is low). For
sets with an SVHS input, it provides the additional
information if a Y/C or CVBS source is present (signal is
high). The presence of an external Y/C source makes
this line ‘high’ while a CVBS source makes the line ‘low’.
– 0 to 2 V: INTERNAL 4:3
– 4.5 to 7 V: EXTERNAL 16:9
– 9.5 to 12 V: EXTERNAL 4:3


So I'm guessing it's getting 0v to 2v as is so if I jump something in the range of 9.5v to 12v it will process as RGB. Not sure though, where's Voultar when you need him? Hopefully it adjusts how the YUV or RGB signal is process and isn't just a status on the OSD that is changed. Anyone have any any more insight before I attempt?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 9:13 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 487
That will only force AV input and 4:3.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 9:31 pm 



Joined: 13 Oct 2015
Posts: 19
Well I bypassed all the YUV/RGB circuitry and jumped the YUV inputs to the YUV/RGB input pins on the chip. I'm getting Red and Green okay but blue looks purplish and it's out of sync. No sync on composite either. Probably just going to give up on this and find one with analog rgb.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 1:08 am 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 75
LuckyDay wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
> and the black on the bottom looks like adhesive to me, but I could be wrong on that

I have seen adhesive use in those spots before, I believe you are correct.


Have you seen a bad cap leak white out of the top without bursting or cracking? This stuff definitely isn't adhesive on top. I cleaned it all up. And these big caps are slightly different than the smaller ones I'm used to using with the metal tops.

Actually you know what, I can just remove this thing and test it out. These big ones are simple to replace.


think your capacitor is starting to stew, find two exactly like yours on my KV-1441 board and one of them is completely stew, just replace, he seens ok tho so try to find bad solder spots


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 3:31 pm 



Joined: 30 Jan 2019
Posts: 3
Hey guys! Thank you everyone that has contributed to this thread. First post here but I had a quick question for you:

I have some banding that shows up on dark screens, as well as some ghosting where there is a bar or something solid color. I'm using composite input for sync (and I cannot find another place to insert it on my board). I tried to find what "clean" the sync signal means, but this is quite a long thread! :D Do I need to put a cap and resisters inline like I did with the RGB signal?

I had a longer post with more details, but for some reason it didn't show up.

Image

Here's a pic of my set before mounting it in my Neo Geo cab :)
Spoiler: show
Image


edit: I forgot the first post had to be approved... :) See the detailed post here with my jungle chip and stuff


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