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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 16, 2018 6:45 pm 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
kynrek wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
I ended up giving up on the Turtles TV and following these instructions for the Sharp TV and it worked! (I'll post pictures later)

At first I wasn't sure if I was seeing component or RGB because I am still seeing dot crawl on my everdrive's menu screen for the N64 but I did notice that the colors in the OSD are different in some places where they intersect with the game image when only when using my SCART connection (RGB).

I think the everdrive menu uses one of the N64's high resolution modes so I'm not sure if dot crawl on text is normal or not with RGB. I am using the Composite video for sync. Would using a sync stripper help with dot crawl?


That sounds like you are only seeing composite video. What blanking circuit did you use?


Pin 16 with 75 ohms to ground and a 3.3K inline. When the N64 is turned on I get 1.09 volts on the wire that should be going to the blanking line on the tv PCB. I suspect that I have it soldered to the incorrect pin because when I disconnect it completely I see no difference in picture and I am still seeing the dot crawl. It seems that this is not getting sent to the blanking pin to on the jungle chip. I also tried applying 3.3 and 5V to the line and didn't see any difference other than some faint rolling lines going up the screen so I disconnected it immediately.



Ok so I FINALLY got it working! Putting 5v with 75 ohms to ground and a 3.3k in-line would not work but bypassing all the resistors and putting 5v direct worked!

Composite and rgb are like night and day my only issue is that the rgb picture is pretty dim any ideas to fix the dimness? Could too much voltage to blanking cause dimming?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 12:15 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
kynrek wrote:
Composite and rgb are like night and day my only issue is that the rgb picture is pretty dim any ideas to fix the dimness? Could too much voltage to blanking cause dimming?


Remind me of the details of your set?
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 1:09 am 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
Composite and rgb are like night and day my only issue is that the rgb picture is pretty dim any ideas to fix the dimness? Could too much voltage to blanking cause dimming?


Remind me of the details of your set?



Sharp 36r-S50

https://elektrotanya.com/cgi-bin/downlo ... sn-92m.pdf


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 3:58 am 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
kynrek wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
I have a Sharp 36R-S50 that I would like to RGB mod and add a SCART port to. I found the service manual but I’ve never read a schematic before. I have done an RGB mod on my N64 and a few other mods so I can handle soldering I just need help coming up with a plan of where to connect the RGB and Sync signals.

https://elektrotanya.com/cgi-bin/downlo ... sn-92m.pdf


This is a perfect candidate for the OSD mux method.

R2024,R2025 and R2026 are your OSD RGB inline resistors, 6800 Ohm

R803, R804 and R805 are the OSD RGB ground resistors. These will need to be removed. Your new inline resistors will be 1100 Ohm (see table above). 75 Ohm terminations of course. As these resistors are surface mount you will probably want to connect your RGB to the legs of R2024,R2025 and R2026 that are closest to the jungle.

R2027 is the inline on blanking, 6800 Ohm, R802 is the ground resistor 3300 ohm. R802 can be removed, then insert a 75 ohm terminated wire from scart pin 16, through a 3300Ohm resistor onto the leg of R2027 that is closest to the jungle. The jungle requires a minimum of 0.7V to blank which is perfect for using scart pin 16.

The jungle IX3253CE is the same as a TA1268N.


Awesome, thanks! I’ll crack her open soon and see if I can pinpoint those components. I’ll keep you updated!


So I followed all of your instructions except for this part

"then insert a 75 ohm terminated wire from scart pin 16, through a 3300Ohm resistor onto the leg of R2027 that is closest to the jungle."

With 5 volts it did nothing and with 3.3 volts it would only blank for a few seconds and then fade to the composite picture. I had to bypass the 75 ohm terminated line and the 3.3k resistor to get the jungle chip to blank, I used 5V from somewhere on the board, I used a potentiometer as a voltage divider on the 5v blanking but it didn't seem to affect the picture at all it just stopped blanking once I turned the resistance up enough.

I tried bypassing the 75 ohms to ground and the inline resitors on the RGB lines and the picture did brighten up a bit but the color seems off and the menu is pretty much unreadable. Not sure how I can get a picture that is not dim and a readable menu.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 4:17 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
My instructions were based on you using the Scart Pin 16. These are usually set up with a 5V line coming through a 180 Ohm resistor. The 75 ohm termination then results in around 1.5V.

The easiest way to blank the set (with the R802 3300 Ohm in place) would be to run a 5V line through a 6800 Ohm resistor to the leg of R2027 that is farthest from system control chip OR lift the leg of R2027 that is closest to the control chip and inject your 5V into the leg you just raised.
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 2:14 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
one question: can we use 82R instead 75R?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 9:54 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
HellRazor wrote:
one question: can we use 82R instead 75R?


Should be fine.
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2018 11:05 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
Annnnd.. I'm back. That damn 24" Toshiba that worked and then suddenly didn't work after discharging the tube; I was never able to figure out the problem. Kept the tube/chassis because its the exact model I want so I figured I could wait around til another 24" Toshiba of that era popped up for sale and I'd swap the board in. Yesterday I scooped up a 24AF44 for $20. It was a bit filthy so I cleaned the board off, kinda double checked the board, the component layout is different and it uses a different Jungle IC but all the connections and board fitment was exactly the same as the other one. Stuck it in and the TV works again. Hurraaay.

Anyone have any thoughts on recapping a board? If I (using a website) converted the "Powered On" hex time correctly (3A50), that would be like 15,000 hours. I'm curious about how much of a pain in the ass recapping the board would be. The service manual only lists like 26 capacitors (and their respective locations) in the replacement parts list but there are clearly far more than that on the board. Would I just have to go through one by one, try and get the values off the caps themselves, organize it all and figure out how many of each I need to order etc?

Part of me wants to give this TV the best, overhauled, purr-like-a-kitten, fresh board I can. Another part thinks I'm crazy. But it would help justify the hakko FR300 I ordered. The other 20AF41 is still working great with the new MUX mod and such. Feel like I need to step it up a notch with this 24" one.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:12 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
On the weekend I spent some time selectively adding new caps to an old set. I didn't just shotgun the whole board though, I reviewed the issues the set was having, they seemed to be sync related, and targeted caps in that area of the chassis. I also touched the tops of the caps and noticed they were running hot. The results were great, the TV was built circa 1990 - It is now syncing rock solid with no flicker at the top of picture that it was previously having.

I also replaced a large power filter cap as it appeared to have a bulge at the top of it.
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


Last edited by MarkOZLAD on Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:15 am 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
I got a Lm1881 sync stripper circuit. After I get sync do I just put it to a composite input or is there a separate pin usually?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:28 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
kynrek wrote:
I got a Lm1881 sync stripper circuit. After I get sync do I just put it to a composite input or is there a separate pin usually?


http://retrorgb.com/syncstripperdiy.html

"75 Ohm csync output

Please note that this guide shows you how to build the sync stripper circuit; It does NOT talk about use case scenarios. If you’re plugging this into a display or video processor (such as the Framemeister) then you’ll need to add one 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor to attenuate the output to 75 ohm video standards. Many RGB monitors accept a wide variety of sync signals, including the TTL sync that this circuit outputs. If you’d like to be safe, just add the extra resistor; It’s literally as easy as just soldering it to the output pin."

I would do that and put output into composite input.
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 12:39 am 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
MarkOZLAD wrote:
On the weekend I spent some time selectively adding new caps to an old set. I didn't just shotgun the whole board though, I reviewed the issues the set was having, they seemed to be sync related, and targeted caps in that area of the chassis. I also touched the tops of the caps and noticed they were running hot. The results were great, the TV was built circa 1990 - It is now syncing rock solid with no flicker at the top of picture that it was previously having.

I also replaced a large power filter cap as it appeared to have a bulge at the top of it.


That was actually something I was thinking about. If replacing caps around certain areas of the board would be smarter.. but I'm not 100% confident I'd know exactly which ones to go for. The board has areas like "Comb", "Chroma", "Tone", "Stereo" etc marked and I guess I could isolate some that way. Or be even more specific and follow the schematics.

In terms of picture issues, I'm not experienced enough to note exactly what is wrong, why its wrong, and thus what areas to look for.. but I can sorta tell when something is off. Also I have the 20" as reference. The other variable is having this non-factory calibrated board/tube combo. The picture did not look good in the set I just bought, but it definitely looked better in the tube I swapped it into. Needs some geometry adjustments but I was noticing some red separation toward the top center of the screen on both tubes. Not sure if that'd be a convergence adjustment (rest of the picture looked alright?) or cap related. Which is why I was thinking about replacing caps. Couldn't hurt.. Unless I break something haha

So would you say I should consider replacing caps in the Power, H. Out, V. Out, Chroma areas? Comb wouldn't matter for RGB input stuff right?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 3:03 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
Seikenfreak wrote:
So would you say I should consider replacing caps in the Power, H. Out, V. Out, Chroma areas? Comb wouldn't matter for RGB input stuff right?


Sounds fair but I'd still start with a close visual inspection with (TV off) looking for caps that are bulging or appear to have overheated. Can sometimes tell by the feel of the outer casing and/or see places on the chassis that have overheated (dark brown spots). Then I'd try and identify caps that are heating up after a while of leaving the TV on. I just carefully use my fingers but I guess you could try alcohol or freeze spray if that makes you uncomfortable.
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 6:47 pm 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
Any Idea what is causing these wavy lines? I have a sync stripper, would that help? I am using +5v from the TV Tuner and the Ground to get the power to the blanking line.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:16 pm 


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Joined: 09 Aug 2017
Posts: 1440
Location: Australia
Why use a sync stripper when the TV has one inbuilt?

Its defs a power related issue.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:10 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
can you guys please confirm me if that set of tvs can be modded as i did not figure out by myself
https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... 578a-1072/
Philips Chassis L01.1L AA
21PT 838A
25PT 848A
29PT 458A
29PT 558A
29PT 658A
33PT 578A

thank you so much!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2018 10:52 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 752
HellRazor wrote:
can you guys please confirm me if that set of tvs can be modded as i did not figure out by myself
https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... 578a-1072/
Philips Chassis L01.1L AA
21PT 838A
25PT 848A
29PT 458A
29PT 558A
29PT 658A
33PT 578A

thank you so much!


I think this is one that may be able to be modded through the component ports. Tune it to AV1, sync into AV1 composite port, RGB into UYV respectively, trigger blanking. May need to change a service setting to enable PIP.

Another option may be to inject RGB and blanking into port 0242 as seen in schematic A13.

The fact that this set appears to have voltage always going to the blanking pin (+8V via Resistor 3205) is troubling I normally see this on sets that can't be modded. Perhaps you will have to trigger blanking by using the remote to trigger PIP.

No guarantees, it's a little strange.
_________________
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 4:01 am 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 97
Location: Florida
I tried to rgb mod the same tv but it was a no go.

I think the rgb is disabled in the jungle ic


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 2:37 pm 


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Joined: 16 Sep 2018
Posts: 19
kynrek wrote:

Ok so I FINALLY got it working! Putting 5v with 75 ohms to ground and a 3.3k in-line would not work but bypassing all the resistors and putting 5v direct worked!

Composite and rgb are like night and day my only issue is that the rgb picture is pretty dim any ideas to fix the dimness? Could too much voltage to blanking cause dimming?



Glad you got it working.

Try using a potentiometer to sweep how much voltage you're sending to the blanking pin.
This article helps if you're not familiar with that:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/vo ... viders/all


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2018 3:23 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
Thanks Mark! i ask just for curiosity as that philips one is actually on my father house. so im almost re-assembling the trinitron KV-29T76 and have a a doubt about that conector:
Image

its that one who goes to tube black rings (idk the right name), that conector have a specific order? its a 2 pin one black and one white, i try on one position and the tv turn on so i curious to see what happen if i invert him


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2018 10:42 pm 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
kynrek wrote:
Any Idea what is causing these wavy lines? I have a sync stripper, would that help? I am using +5v from the TV Tuner and the Ground to get the power to the blanking line.

Image



This was caused by interference, the wires that were connected to the jungle chip were wet close to
The high voltage side of the board and caused them to pick up this interference, rerouting the wires fixed the issue.


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 Post subject: Toshiba 24AF44 Capacitor Replacement
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 3:16 am 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
I went ahead and replaced all of the capacitors in the Power/H.Out/V.Out, Neck Board, and Sound Amp sections of the board and most of the Chroma caps. 41 caps in total. There are six tiny 1uF caps in the Chroma section that I decided not to replace as they're very close together and the size I got is a little too big for that cluster. The 1uFs I bought worked for various other spots, but I figured I should just order a smaller set of 1uF caps to finish that out. There were also two caps that were originally polarized, but I put non-polarized ones in. The caps I ordered for that spot or two say nothing about being non-polarized on the Mouser page, but the datasheet says they are NP/BP, and it's marked on the caps themselves. Tried looking online and it didn't seem like that'd be a problem putting a NP in place of a polarized. Can be changed if needed.

Also swapped out all the rear AV jacks from the dead board as these were very discolored and brittle. Screw holes had cracked when I took the TV apart.

Good news is that the TV powered on and seems to work, except that the image is a bit blurry around the outside half of the screen I guess. Like the image is "blown out".

Edit: Dur, I remembered the Focus and Brightness adjustments on the Flyback as soon as I posted this. Focus seems to have cleared most of it up. Actually.. it looks super sharp. Don't even have the RGB set up on this one yet so more room for improvement. Reds look a little separated on the edge. I'll see if I can replace the rest of those Chroma caps. Suppose I'll start on the RGB wiring tomorrow. Assuming it'll work with this different jungle chip in it. Seems like it does.

Another interesting thing is with this different chipset on the 44 vs the 42, it has a lot more options in the Service Menu. Not sure what a lot of it does though.

Some pics (from before flyback adjustment*):
Spoiler: show
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


After flyback adjustment:

Spoiler: show
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Toshiba 24AF44 Capacitor Replacement
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 3:20 pm 


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Joined: 05 Mar 2018
Posts: 1361
looking good, nice work - I see it's a toshiba but what model do you have again?

Seikenfreak wrote:
I went ahead and replaced all of the capacitors in the Power/H.Out/V.Out, Neck Board, and Sound Amp sections of the board and most of the Chroma caps. 41 caps in total. There are six tiny 1uF caps in the Chroma section that I decided not to replace as they're very close together and the size I got is a little too big for that cluster. The 1uFs I bought worked for various other spots, but I figured I should just order a smaller set of 1uF caps to finish that out. There were also two caps that were originally polarized, but I put non-polarized ones in. The caps I ordered for that spot or two say nothing about being non-polarized on the Mouser page, but the datasheet says they are NP/BP, and it's marked on the caps themselves. Tried looking online and it didn't seem like that'd be a problem putting a NP in place of a polarized. Can be changed if needed.

Also swapped out all the rear AV jacks from the dead board as these were very discolored and brittle. Screw holes had cracked when I took the TV apart.

Good news is that the TV powered on and seems to work, except that the image is a bit blurry around the outside half of the screen I guess. Like the image is "blown out".

Edit: Dur, I remembered the Focus and Brightness adjustments on the Flyback as soon as I posted this. Focus seems to have cleared most of it up. Actually.. it looks super sharp. Don't even have the RGB set up on this one yet so more room for improvement. Reds look a little separated on the edge. I'll see if I can replace the rest of those Chroma caps. Suppose I'll start on the RGB wiring tomorrow. Assuming it'll work with this different jungle chip in it. Seems like it does.

Another interesting thing is with this different chipset on the 44 vs the 42, it has a lot more options in the Service Menu. Not sure what a lot of it does though.

Some pics (from before flyback adjustment*):
Spoiler: show
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


After flyback adjustment:

Spoiler: show
Image


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 Post subject: Re: Toshiba 24AF44
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 3:44 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
maxtherabbit wrote:
looking good, nice work - I see it's a toshiba but what model do you have again?


Toshiba 20AF41 and 24AF42. Made from 2001-2004 ish I believe. They changed the front fascia design in '03-'04. I've got some personal connection with the '01-'02 style. Can read through my adventures with these if you go back in the thread awhile.

As I mentioned a few posts above, I bought the 24AF42, it worked, but for some reason after I discharged it or took the board out, it wouldn't power on again and I spent tons of hours trying to figure out why and never could. So now I've got the innards of a 24AF44 in it.

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 9:55 pm 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 47
So I realized that dark areas are too dark when playing my N64. For example when flying through canyon walks that are supposed to be dark or shadowy they are pitch black. Any ideas to fix it? The contrast and brightness settings on the tv don’t affect the rgb video. Do I need capacitors somewhere?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:28 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
Either something in the Service Menu, or try the small "Screen" adjustment screw on the flyback. Be careful when adjusting that one though, should only need very tiny adjustment. Kinda need to play with various things til you find a compromise. It'll never be perfect for all games/systems from my experience.

kynrek wrote:
So I realized that dark areas are too dark when playing my N64. For example when flying through canyon walks that are supposed to be dark or shadowy they are pitch black. Any ideas to fix it? The contrast and brightness settings on the tv don’t affect the rgb video. Do I need capacitors somewhere?


And of course I'm having issues on my end. Nothing is ever easy. Got the board wired up for RGB, faster than I expected. Much easier when I've done most of the leg work already on a similar set.

Problem is I'm getting this ghosting or shadowing or duplicate image effect. Not sure how to describe it. It goes away when the OSD is on.
Spoiler: show
Image

Image


So, unlike the previous setup I did, the inline board RGB caps and resistors are right next to each other with no bridge wire for an easy diode install, so I tried running it with no diodes on the RGB lines. Then I had this image issue. Figured I'd try sticking the diodes in, further complicating everything and being frustrating. Of course it didn't work and one of the through-hole pads started lifting from all the heat and install/removal. Removed the diodes so its back to where it was with the ghosting issue.

Board has 3.3 kOhm inline RGB resistors, so 510 Ohm seemed about right for the external side. Also thought I'd try 1k pots on it via breadboard though and that hasn't changed anything.

Edit: Stumped. I appear to be getting the correct voltages at the RGB and Blanking pins into the Jungle IC. Not sure if it would have anything to do with those six old Chroma caps still in there, if other ones are fresh. Ordered the replacements today. Doesn't feel like it'd be that though, since it was fine without RGB and with RGB it's fine when the OSD is on. Feel like it should have the diodes on the RGB lines, same as I have on the other board.. But that was killing color, probably from dropping the voltage too low.. hmm.. Maybe I changed the factory inline resistors to compensate for the diode drop.. Can't remember. Now that I think about it though.. I think I was injecting the RGB at the wrong point when I tried the diode setup.. Dammit. Now I have to re-test and risk more board damage.

Endless Edits: Well that solves the question of why I wasn't getting color before with the diodes: I forgot to change the injection point when I added them. So it has color but, unfortunately, it did not solve the real issue.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 7:55 am 



Joined: 23 Dec 2018
Posts: 1
Hi im new in this forum!
Well I have a problem with my Phillips 21pt4136 TV ... with chassis L03.2LAA ... with the jungle chip tdA9377ps ..... I did as I show in the photo .... first probe with the 50 pin that said BLKIN ... but when you press the switch, the TV set the black image and went off in 1 second ...

Image

After reading back in the previous threads ... I saw that a user supposedly had a similar problem that did not take him and the user "SYNTAX" told him to use the INSSW2 that is the PIN45 of the jungle chip ..... 3.3V and then with 7.8V and I did not have any results this time ..... I did not turn off the TV or blink or nothing just stayed in the AV message on the TV ..... I do not know what I could do in my case ... the first time I open a television .... I did as they say here steps ... but I resorted here because you have more knowledge than me ..... I hope a help from you ..... = (


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 2:22 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
Can i use this jumper for 5V? i try direct on IC003 pin 8 and the tv wont turn on, i dessolder that and the blanking and the tv back to work

Image: https://klovimg.com/image/PukOj

its a KV-29T76 BA-4B


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2018 10:12 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
Finally! Some progress. Been bashing my head at this for hours. I essentially undid all the RGB stuff I did on the board (the RGB caps, the diodes etc) and just ran RGB in on the factory setup.. Everything continued to work but the shadow image was still there. More messing around and I decided to stick a 1k pot on the Sync wire (which I have running to the component Luma input).. and viola! As I upped the resistance, the shadow pulled into proper focus. Putting 900-1k resistance seems to have cleared it all up.

I don't understand how or why this is working of course. This board is nearly identical to the other one and I don't have resistors on the Sync line on that set up. Regardless, I'm so thrilled I isolated it to that as I was starting to lose hope.

Spoiler: show
Image


Can still see a tiny bit of shadowing I think but upping the resistance more just starts to F up the whole sync so that might be due to something else.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 1:28 pm 



Joined: 04 Mar 2018
Posts: 74
Just picked up a KV-32FS100 (chassis BA5D) for a song...
Image

Well, $9.99. No one pays $10 for a single song. ;)

Anyway, I see so much old and new info in the thread that I’m not quite sure where to start. My understanding is that I can mix with the OSD input by adding some components but every post I find on this seems to second-guess how it was done within a page or two. Where should I start? Thanks!


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