shmups.system11.org

Thank you! I'll order some scart sockets and do some research this weekend.

Here's the datasheet for the jungle IC. https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 283FP.html

Those OSD RGB lines appear to be for digital RGB though? unless I'm mistaken.

Says FastBlank. I'd give it a crack.

The inline resistor/ground resistor/capacitor pattern suggests analog RGB.

Ok i know am currently working with an Akai TV, but someone just offered me a Sony KV-24FV12. I tried searching the forum to see if anyone had mentioned this TV before but it didn't turn up anything.

I thought i was good at identifying TV's that Could be modded but it still seems I've got more to learn.

Here is the service manual
http://go-gddq.com/upload/2010-04/10040915469189.pdf (Don't bother with the one on Manuals library as its broken,huge chunks missing)

I see the jungle with RGB IN but don't see any blanking or even where is ties in with the OSD to do the Switch method.

Can anyone take a look?

Blanking is YS2/YM.

Suitable for OSD/External RGB Mux method as are all Sony BA-5 BA-5D Chassis

I did a write-up of the SpongeBob TV RGB mod, and it was featured on RetroRGB, check it out! Thanks for all the help.

Curious question, is 30 gauge wire too light weight for a TV RGB mod?

What gauge does everyone else use here?

This is awesome, btw!

has anyone ever tried YPbPr modding a 90s curved trinitron?

I was looking at one service manual for the kv-32s22, which uses the CXA2025AS Y/C/J, and it appears to take YUV at the correct levels from the PiP board... seems like a component mod for that jungle chip would be a breeze

Hello everyone,

I'm needing some help if anyone can. ...
I have a Toshiba mw27f51
I have the service manual and I have a decent idea of where to get my RGB and sync input for a scart mod. But I'd really like some guidance. Can anyone help?

OK starting from Pin 8 on the board, I traced it to R717 on the board which is missing! looking beyond that (which you can see in the picture below) leads to a Diode, which IS in place and dumps into a pool of many different things as you can see in the picture, which sprouts to many things all over the board! is this a voltage rail supplying current to many different parts?


So according to the scart wikia you linked me pin 8 needs supplied with the following:
0 V–2 V means no signal, or internal bypass
4.5 V–7 V (nominal 6 V) means a widescreen (16:9) signal
9.5 V–12 V (nominal 12 V) means a normal (4:3) signal

the different consoles provide this when you turn them on? or is it the other way around and the board supplies the current when it senses the powered on console? i guess i don't understand which way the signal or currect in flowing.
How does it get these various ranges of current?
I'm at a loss as to what to do about this.

According to the CXA2025AS datasheet this will depend on whether the EY-SW register is set to 0 or 1. There may be a service menu switch to enable PIP input.

Adjustments for service menu listed in here

May need to find a model that had PIP and copy the Option Data settings from that set. see Page 19.

Are you sure that "pool" is not a ground plane? You can tell by putting one probe of multimeter on the end of the diode on the plane and another on the tuner cage. If it reads zero it's a ground plane.

After the diode, the Scart Pin 8 appears to go to the R715. Is this correct? Can you confirm with a multimeter?

I think there's a good chance R717 and R715 make up the voltage divider on the Scart pin 8. Can you measure R715?

Is this the place to ask if a certain tv can be modded for RGB?

You are correct that is a ground plane I did what you said and got a zero on the meter.

I see the trace now of the diode going to R715, i guess I wasn't squinting hard enough lol but yes it goes there. It reads 9.93k so a 10K resister?
I can't measure R717 as its not on the board. I guess they left that one off on purpose?

From my experience the voltage dividers on Scart Pin 8 line reduce 12V to 5V. Based on this I think you should put a 14K Ohm resistor in R717.



I have seen other sets drop it down towards 2.5V, which would be a 39K resistor for you..... So something from 14-39K. The LG MC-099A uses 15K/6.8K to make 12V into 3.75V, which would indicate a 22K resistor would be appropriate and in the middle ground.

Voltage division is a concept you really should try and understand. It is dead simple.

http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculator

If you start getting it switching into widescreen on some consoles (that output 5V on pin 8 ) there are options we can look at. I've helped a guy add a switch to force 4:3 mode before, it's easy. Using a 14K resistor option should minimise the chance of this happening because it will end up a higher voltage at the chip. Suck it and see I say.

I'm picking up a free 32" curved trinitron later today that uses that chassis... hopefully it has PiP

First CRT RGB Mod for me!

I need some help on this Sony KV-K29MF1. (a 29" tube with sweet speakers)
link to the service manual: https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-k29mf1 ... nload.html
page 40 has the schematics like you'll see below.


OK, I've drawn out what I know so far and I have two issues.

#1. If I try to inject external RGB into the OSD signal (labeled RGB "IN 2" in my diagram) where should I attempt it?
I'm thinking on the OSD side of the 1 farad caps for the RGB lines? Or where the OSD ground resistors are now (after they're removed)?

#2. The jungle chip has two RGB "In" locations (labeled as RGB "IN 1" and "IN 2" in my diagram)
Does RGB "IN 1" look usable that way I can avoid the entire mux calculations?
RGB "IN 1" looks like it just connects to ground via a resistor from the schematic, which I find odd.
Although tracing each pin out on the PCB looks like they go to more places than just ground, so I don't know if that could even be used at all.

Any input is highly appreciated!

Schematic w/ Highlights
https://flic.kr/p/MGVE2H

Schematic By-Hand w/ Highlights
https://flic.kr/p/2anaX7s

Overview of PCB
https://flic.kr/p/2a5dKye

OSD Chip w/ traces
https://flic.kr/p/2a5dLpH

OSD Chip plain
https://flic.kr/p/MGVLMB

Jungle Chip w/ traces
https://flic.kr/p/MGVM9P

Jungle Chip plain
https://flic.kr/p/2a5dLCZ

Sorry for all the URL's. I'm new to shmups so I don't know how put JUST the pictures up here.

ended up being the slightly older version of the chassis that uses the CXA2025S - it does have PiP and still takes analog YUV on the same pins, but it doesn't have the EY-SW register to worry about

it also has an analog RGB OSD, so I guess I can bang out both inputs

I'll post back whenever I get around to it, probably be a while

The G3F is one djcalle and I have investigated before. We have not done a mod but we did find that some schematics list a CN103 Teletext port that could be suitable for RGB and Blanking injection.



I would remove R348, R349 and R350 and use 75R terminations on the RGB lines, or leave them in place and use 300R terminations (using parallel resistancs to alter 100R to 75R)

May need to change the service options.



Hope this is of help.

Well I cracked open a Broken VCR, and 3 Radios looking for a 14k resistor, no luck but can't I just link a 10k and 4k over the board? Won't that just do the same thing? PS again I live in a crummy town in WV, we have no radio shack or any store that would carry stuff like this. I know I could just order it online from mouser but I'm kinda having fun learning about electronics as I go through this.

Yep, 10K + 4K in series will give 14K.

I didn't even think about standard resistor sizes! Where is my mind? 15K, 16K, 18K or 20K would all likely be fine too if you find them

Ok I just ended up joining a 4.7k and a 10k. I read it after I soldered it into the board and it reads correctly. So now you think I just need to wire up my SCART connecter and cross fingers fire it up and hope it works? Can’t think of anything else I should check before I reassemble the TV? Oh by the way I only have 30 gauge wire... will that work or do I need to use thicker?

I'd say minimum of 28awg for RGB lines, thicker the better

CAT5e has 24 gauge wire inside... I don’t know if each of the 8 wires is shielded though, would that work?

maybe, it's almost always solid core though, which at that gauge can be difficult to safely attach to small PCB pads without ripping them off

Oh I thought I’d seen people recommended using solid and not using stranded.
24 is pretty thin though I can’t imagine it being that difficult but I have no choice unless I want to order on the net and wait for another 4 days for it to come in. I’m on vacation this week from work and was hoping to spend allota time working on all this.

Solid 24awg is stiff and heavy. Attaching it is not the problem, sometimes the weight and rigidity of the wire causes board damage

At some point you'll have to....