Just for my understanding, this jungle ic is ttl?Syntax wrote:You'll usually see something for h sync and v sync separate
https://klovimg.com/image/3w9Ld
https://klovimg.com/image/3witg
Just for my understanding, this jungle ic is ttl?Syntax wrote:You'll usually see something for h sync and v sync separate
Lukilla-- is that MAME Final Fight running in 240p? If so, may I ask how you managed that?lukilla wrote:I was thinking that those JVC aren´t for me, GDI (samsung?) tube is nice but not as good as others I´ve used, so just got this with very little usage and modded by the naughty method, no other option for them anyway
The power of two
These like 2.7kohm in series, very little dust inside.-
Simple vga socket.-
Voilá.-
!What's the question? Final Fight runs great at 240p...? You just set MAME to output that way, or GM if you're using it.Josh128 wrote:Lukilla-- is that MAME Final Fight running in 240p? If so, may I ask how you managed that?
Can you enlighten me on what the comonent hack is?Syntax wrote:Found another LG set that wont accept csync when modded. It seems the later models incorporated a sensing switch that sees csync as luma and goes into svideo mode.
This particular set (RT-21FA31) can do component composite s video and rgb BUT only component OR
It has an inbuilt osd in the jungle so it ended up being a comonent hack instead of an osd one.
Heres a picture of my work on it
https://i.imgur.com/sBod4Df.jpg
Thanks, another dumb question though-- once this mod is done, I assume input switching via OSD are no longer possible? Also, can it accept audio at the same time as VGA? Sorry for all the questions, but I find these mods very interesting and am fairly clueless about them. I have an old Sanyo 32" with S-Video and composite in that has a very nice screen with deep blacks. Would not mind attempting something like this. For a set like that do you think direct wiring would be the way to go or does it contain a jungle chip that could be modded?lukilla wrote:You are limited to vga output for 15khz. For sync combining I use Tim´s dodgy diode circuit:
You got me thinking about the 75ohm termination in the tv set adding to the console terminations so I pulled out the multimeter and check some systemsviletim wrote:mikejmoffitt wrote:In the OP I made a diagram showing how to do a switched OSD injection.
For the YSW signal, if you are using SCART, you might be able to create this logic:
YSW <= OSD_YSW || SCART_5V
You can look into analogue signal switches to use the OSD_YSW to switch between your injected RGB and the original OSD RGB.mikejmoffitt wrote: With no second RGB / teletext input; injecting using OSD lines:
* Snip-snap the internal OSD RGB signals going into the jungle mixer
* Inject your RGB there instead, with 75 ohm resistors to ground and then a ~0.1uF capacitor in series to the RGB input
* Pull the jungle mixer blanking pin out of circuit, and tie it high (nearby jungle VCC, usually 3.3~5V) to make it always blanking (always showing RGB)
* Put your composite sync signal into an available luma input (or composite if that's all you have)
* Put that noise on a switch so you can change it back and forth
* Enjoy RGB
I found a low cost TV design that fudges the OSD and SCART input together like this. I think it's the best implementation I've seen. Here's the manual http://etim.net.au/temp/forum/DAEWOO%20 ... V%20SM.pdf (see page 64 of the PDF)
You need to have a resistor in series with the RGB signals. This is because the new termination resistors (75 ohm) in parallel with the RGB video source (75 ohm) makes a load of 37.5 ohms on the RGB input from the OSD signal's point of view. This Daewoo TV puts 150 ohm resistors in series which lifts the load on the OSD signal. Too little or no series resistance = high loading (attenuation) of the OSD, too much series resistance = poor clamp performance. It's a compromise. 150 ohms looks like a good choice to me. The other important part is the RGB OSD signals must each have diodes in series. This way they are effectively out of the circuit when it's off. This prevents loading of the RGB input. An emitter follower + diode OR circuit combines the fast blanking from SCART with the fast blanking of the OSD.
Cheers, i'll take a look.lukilla wrote:I´ve had no problem using only the nvcp (win7 and win10). Below is an example:
https://i.imgur.com/GCO4AFd.png
fandangos wrote: Also syntax, remeber l2fill? Found out that almost every sony set has a s501 and s502 swtch horizontal position and it's not documented in the service manual.
Not yet. As you know my sony even with Hpos at 0 has a black bar on the left side and I can expand but the image is not centralized.Syntax wrote:fandangos wrote: Also syntax, remeber l2fill? Found out that almost every sony set has a s501 and s502 swtch horizontal position and it's not documented in the service manual.
Very interesting, care to shed some more light on the matter?
Don't worry, I have a bunch of consoles all using csync on it. Just run your csync into the S-video Luma and you are set.cyborc wrote:to anyone who has RGB modded a Sony KV-27S42: Does it have any issues handling csync? I've read some posts recently about certain consumer Trinitrons not handling csync well or at all. I don't really want to waste my time modding this TV if it ends up having csync issues, because I need csync for my extron switch.
Awesome, thanks! Those pics you posted of your set a while back is the reason I tracked down an S42!nakedarthur wrote:Don't worry, I have a bunch of consoles all using csync on it. Just run your csync into the S-video Luma and you are set.cyborc wrote:to anyone who has RGB modded a Sony KV-27S42: Does it have any issues handling csync? I've read some posts recently about certain consumer Trinitrons not handling csync well or at all. I don't really want to waste my time modding this TV if it ends up having csync issues, because I need csync for my extron switch.
Any more details?XeD wrote:I'm rgb nodded a Toshiba 27A4IC and I seem to have a sync issue.
https://klovimg.com/image/3QITZ
Any ideas?
What is the external device?XeD wrote:I remove the jumper W802, 808, 813 and solder my rgb line to the jungle chip side. Remove jumper W820 and solder jungle chip side to pin 2 for 5v. Seem like I'm getting a picture but with a vertical roll. I took the sync from the video 1 composit, roll. Took it from svideo same thing roll