TV RGB mod thread

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MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

AetherPi wrote:I have a Toshiba MD20Q42, which I'm trying to mod both RGB and S-Video onto. I'm not sure the S-Video will work like this, since the DVD player uses the Luma and Chroma inputs. How does this look?
Image
You're on the right track but you should study the OSD/External RGB mux diagram for the RGB mod.

For the sync for RGB mod, just put it through the AV Video In port, don't need to put it onto a chip leg.

The S-Video looks pretty reasonable. It is a good idea to check out the Datasheet of the jungle chip and see if there are any typical application diagrams


EDIT: There isn't much info around about the M61277FP. Hopefully it can accept Analog RGB. Pin 13 being named "FASTBLK" is a good sign.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
Gaúcho
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2020 5:09 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Gaúcho »

MarkOZLAD wrote:Whilst I'm documenting Sony mods, here are the design diagrams I made for John M on the CRT Collective to mod his Sony KV-27S42 TV with BA-4D chassis using the OSD Mux method. He implemented it with great success.

This was done when I was still using diodes.

The basic process is:
- remove the existing inline throughole resistors R025, R026 and R027
- replace each of them with a 2K4R and a 1n4148 diode
- remove surface mount resistors R086, R087 and R088
- On the external RGB lines use 75R terminations to ground and then 430R inline
- Connect the external RGB lines to the leg of the diodes closest to the jungle
- Connect 5V to switch the switch to 1KR and solder after the existing R028 inline resistor on the blanking circuit

The theory behind the mod exactly the same as for the BA-5D, just a bit easier to implement because of the throughole resistors R025, R026 and R027.

Image


If you wanted to drop the diodes you could use 330R on the External RGB lines.

Some other things of note from this mod:

- John was originally using a purchased sync cleaner and couldn't get the TV to sync, he removed this from the setup and it worked
- John purchased an RCA to S-Video adapter and fed sync into S-Video. He said this fixed the image shifting you normally see.


I was looking for information to resolve the error of the mod I made on the Sony KV29T75 (Chassis BA4B), can you help me find the values ​​of the resistors? The BA-4D and BA-5D chassis are almost similar, which would be the most recommendable?

Diagram closest to TV 29T75 (Chassis BA4B)
https://ibb.co/vQn9f2D
Last edited by Gaúcho on Wed Apr 15, 2020 3:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
flynnsbit
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by flynnsbit »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
flynnsbit wrote:Well I started down the path of modifying a TV for RGB. The MiSTer project has me hooked. I have a smaller PVM that is great but I would like a 19" TV to play on. I had a TV saved for a project or a Donor tube for one of my arcade machines. This thead has me excited to convert a TV to RGB. This TV is RF only so I am wondering if in the 99 pages of this thread if anyone has successfully modded one without composite already on it?

Here is the Tube I have:
Magnavox/Philips 19PRC1 0121
Chassis Board: 19G601-00AA

1. I am having trouble finding the service manual for this TV. Any suggestions?

2. Which one is my Jungle Chip? I've taken a picture of the board on both sides?

3. Where do you think I can pull c-sync from?

Here are the pics: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fwwH3 ... CHBy8sxUOA

This would be an RGB only tube so I don't mind "no turning back" modifications


The jungle is the one on the "Top.jpg" shot near the bottom of the photo with the half shield on it. IC270.

Before modding an RF only set you need to determine if it is a live chassis set. If it is you will need an isolation transformer or some other option to make sure it doesn't short to ground through the external device you attach to it.
I have an isolation transformer I can use from my arcade machines.

I found the service manual for this TV and uploaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Kq_vv ... XGYg3tiL7r

I verified it has the TDA8368A but the closest data sheet I could find is the TDA8366 here: http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... DA8366.pdf
Looks like it has an RGB insersion point with blanking on 20-23 and 24 being RGBIN right?

I can't find the TDA8368A. The other options would be the TDA8369:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hQ79B ... 9KdzeCmYTX
The 8369 has the RGB insertion at 23-25 with blanking at 26.
Cinder
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2020 3:26 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Cinder »

Hello friends.
I bought a sony trinitron kv-21fv12 / 5 television with BA-5D chassis, I made the 2 types of modifications that I found.
Mod 1.- inject the RGB into the bridges between the Micon and the Jungle chip with a resistance of 75 ohms.
Mod 2.- lift the legs of the Jungla chip and inject the rgb signal with the 75 ohm resistors to ground and 0.1mf or 104 nanofarad capacitors.
I add that I also took the 5 volt signal and the blanking signal connected to a switch to activate and deactivate the OSD signal and the sync signal take it from the composite video and then take it from the Luma signal in the s-video and in s-video it was the best option.
Results: In the 2 types of modifications that I made I never used consoles modified to rgb, I only used pcb jamma boards connected by a vga connector that I made and in the 2 modifications that I made the saturation of picture and brightness was very high and although I It lowered the brightness and the picture was not enough to show an acceptable image.
I was playing with the values ​​of the resistors and discovered that for pcb jamma boards the best image was with 18 ohm resistors in each color line with the same ground connection and its respective capacitor.
Here the weird thing is that the pcb jamma boards like Neo Geo and Cps1 and Cps2 the brightness and the picture can be adjusted very well, but in other jamma boards the picture and brightness are extremely saturated in games like splatterhouse or Caveman ninja, in addition to On some pcb jamma boards for example Mortal kombat 2 and Captain America and The Avengers the vertical frequency was unstable because the image was constantly falling and I also tried to inject direct signal without resistance or capacitor and it does not show brightness or picture, so my conclusion was that the 18 ohms that I added are the best for jamma boards pcbs but not for all games. I repeat that you do not use consoles, just add jjama boards, could someone help me with this situation?
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

flynnsbit wrote: I have an isolation transformer I can use from my arcade machines.

I found the service manual for this TV and uploaded here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Kq_vv ... XGYg3tiL7r

I verified it has the TDA8368A but the closest data sheet I could find is the TDA8366 here: http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... DA8366.pdf
Looks like it has an RGB insersion point with blanking on 20-23 and 24 being RGBIN right?

I can't find the TDA8368A. The other options would be the TDA8369:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hQ79B ... 9KdzeCmYTX
The 8369 has the RGB insertion at 23-25 with blanking at 26.

The service manual shows RGB and Blanking on pins 25, 24, 23 and 26 respectively for IC270.

Have a look at the circuits and see if there are any caps near pins 25, 24 and 23. Interested to know.

For an OSD mux I would normally target resistors R370, R369 and R368.

For simple blanking I would take a 5V line, add a 3600 ohm resistor and then connect it to the leg of R371 that is farthest from IC345.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Gaúcho wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:Whilst I'm documenting Sony mods, here are the design diagrams I made for John M on the CRT Collective to mod his Sony KV-27S42 TV with BA-4D chassis using the OSD Mux method. He implemented it with great success.

This was done when I was still using diodes.

The basic process is:
- remove the existing inline throughole resistors R025, R026 and R027
- replace each of them with a 2K4R and a 1n4148 diode
- remove surface mount resistors R086, R087 and R088
- On the external RGB lines use 75R terminations to ground and then 430R inline
- Connect the external RGB lines to the leg of the diodes closest to the jungle
- Connect 5V to switch the switch to 1KR and solder after the existing R028 inline resistor on the blanking circuit

The theory behind the mod exactly the same as for the BA-5D, just a bit easier to implement because of the throughole resistors R025, R026 and R027.

Image


If you wanted to drop the diodes you could use 330R on the External RGB lines.

Some other things of note from this mod:

- John was originally using a purchased sync cleaner and couldn't get the TV to sync, he removed this from the setup and it worked
- John purchased an RCA to S-Video adapter and fed sync into S-Video. He said this fixed the image shifting you normally see.


I was looking for information to resolve the error of the mod I made on the Sony KV29T75 (Chassis BA4B), can you help me find the values ​​of the resistors? The BA-4D and BA-5D chassis are almost similar, which would be the most recommendable?

Diagram closest to TV 29T75 (Chassis BA4B)
https://ibb.co/vQn9f2D

R025, R026 and R027 on the BA4B that I've got a service manual for are 4700 ohm. There are diodes on the OSD lines. If you look at the 0.7V table in my signature you'll see that you should use 910 ohm resistors instead of the 430 ohm resistors on my diagram for BA4D.

For blanking it looks like you should use a 4700 ohm instead of the 1000 ohm on BA4D.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
Cinder
Posts: 11
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2020 3:26 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Cinder »

Hello friends, buy a sony trinitron kv-21fv12 / 5 television with BA-5D chassis, make the 2 kinds of modifications I found. Mod 1.- inject the RGB into the bridges between the Micon and the Jungla chip with a resistance of 75 ohms. Mod 2.- lift the legs of the Jungla chip and inject the rgb signal with the 75 ohm resistors to ground and 0.1mf or 104 nanofarad capacitors. I add that I also took the 5 volt signal and the blanking signal connected to a switch to activate and deactivate the OSD signal and the synchronous signal from the composite video and then the Luma signal from the siper video and in supervideo it was the best option. Results: In the 2 types of modifications I made I never used consoles modified to rgb, I only used jamma pcb boards connected by a vga connector that I made and in the 2 modifications that I made the image saturation and brightness was very high and although I lowered the brightness and the box was not specific to show an acceptable image. I was playing with the values ​​of the resistors and discovered that for pcb jamma boards the best image was with 18 ohm resistors in each color line with the same ground connection and their respective capacitor. Here the weird thing is that the jamma pcb boards like Neo Geo and Cps1 and Cps2 the brightness and image can be adjusted very well, but in other jamma tables the image and brightness are extremely saturated in games like splatterhouse or Caveman ninja, in addition to in some jamma pcb boards for example Mortal kombat 2 and Captain America and The Avengers the vertical frequency was unstable because the image was constantly falling and I also tried to inject direct signal without resistance or capacitor and it does not show brightness or picture, so my conclusion was that of the 18 ohms that I agree with, they are the best for jamma pcbs but not for all games. I repeat that not using consoles, just add jjama together, could someone help me with this situation?
Gaúcho
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Mar 03, 2020 5:09 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Gaúcho »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
Gaúcho wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:Whilst I'm documenting Sony mods, here are the design diagrams I made for John M on the CRT Collective to mod his Sony KV-27S42 TV with BA-4D chassis using the OSD Mux method. He implemented it with great success.

This was done when I was still using diodes.

The basic process is:
- remove the existing inline throughole resistors R025, R026 and R027
- replace each of them with a 2K4R and a 1n4148 diode
- remove surface mount resistors R086, R087 and R088
- On the external RGB lines use 75R terminations to ground and then 430R inline
- Connect the external RGB lines to the leg of the diodes closest to the jungle
- Connect 5V to switch the switch to 1KR and solder after the existing R028 inline resistor on the blanking circuit

The theory behind the mod exactly the same as for the BA-5D, just a bit easier to implement because of the throughole resistors R025, R026 and R027.

Image


If you wanted to drop the diodes you could use 330R on the External RGB lines.

Some other things of note from this mod:

- John was originally using a purchased sync cleaner and couldn't get the TV to sync, he removed this from the setup and it worked
- John purchased an RCA to S-Video adapter and fed sync into S-Video. He said this fixed the image shifting you normally see.


I was looking for information to resolve the error of the mod I made on the Sony KV29T75 (Chassis BA4B), can you help me find the values ​​of the resistors? The BA-4D and BA-5D chassis are almost similar, which would be the most recommendable?

Diagram closest to TV 29T75 (Chassis BA4B)
https://ibb.co/vQn9f2D

R025, R026 and R027 on the BA4B that I've got a service manual for are 4700 ohm. There are diodes on the OSD lines. If you look at the 0.7V table in my signature you'll see that you should use 910 ohm resistors instead of the 430 ohm resistors on my diagram for BA4D.

For blanking it looks like you should use a 4700 ohm instead of the 1000 ohm on BA4D.


I made the mod and the result was not as expected, nor did I take a picture because the image became dark and gradually disappeared, triggering 5v on the BKL. With the BA-4D chassis, I was not successful, I may have confused where to solder the resistors.
I noticed that you mentioned diodes on the external RGB lines, I didn't add them.
Will I have to follow the image?
https://ibb.co/DGmpYVH

The mod I had made (BA-5D) used the 6K7r after the diode (D004) to pay for the BKL, I had an image and could access the service menu, but I was unable to play on the PC.
See what I got from the image.
https://ibb.co/xMBSShh



I took the test to use the GBS8100, it gave a good image, but not the ideal one.
https://ibb.co/2ynWZCf

This photo appears interfering because of the PC.
https://ibb.co/XyPtkgs
Last edited by Gaúcho on Thu Apr 16, 2020 6:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
flynnsbit
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by flynnsbit »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
flynnsbit wrote:
Have a look at the circuits and see if there are any caps near pins 25, 24 and 23. Interested to know.

For an OSD mux I would normally target resistors R370, R369 and R368.

For simple blanking I would take a 5V line, add a 3600 ohm resistor and then connect it to the leg of R371 that is farthest from IC345.
Blanking on R371 worked as expected. Looks like R372 (B), R373 (G), and R374 (R) are nicely positioned at the front of the board. I put a switch and a resistor on R371 and it blanks. I need to find sync now. I think I am also going to have to get to the service menu to turn on AV input or does that not matter if I am doing the OSD Mux version?

I am assuming I will need sync to get any kind of output while blanking or if I feed green from my TPG generator and feed that in to R373 with the right resistor would I expect to see anything on the screen at all without sync first?

I don't see any caps that stand out but I will follow the circuit and report back.
flynnsbit
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by flynnsbit »

Well I have RGB and Blank working but I am getting a rolling screen without the benefit of composite input to use for sync. I've tried probing for sync on IC270, pins 16, 12, 14 all look like they are something with sync but none of them stabilize the picture. I'll keep looking
flynnsbit
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by flynnsbit »

Success! Sync was on one left leg of C211 which is connected to pin 16 on the TDA8368A chip. This Magnavox PR1910C123 needs isolation.
Blanking on R371 (5v)
R372 (B), R373 (G), and R374 (R)
Image
Image

Examples:
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Larger pictures for reference: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fuZIF ... x81ZDpC6LP
Last edited by flynnsbit on Thu Apr 16, 2020 2:29 am, edited 1 time in total.
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

flynnsbit wrote:Well I have RGB and Blank working but I am getting a rolling screen without the benefit of composite input to use for sync. I've tried probing for sync on IC270, pins 16, 12, 14 all look like they are something with sync but none of them stabilize the picture. I'll keep looking
Pin 16 looks like it should be the one.

Another option might be to tie pin 28 high to enable the extenal CVBS pin 12 and then insert sync there.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
flynnsbit
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by flynnsbit »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
flynnsbit wrote:Well I have RGB and Blank working but I am getting a rolling screen without the benefit of composite input to use for sync. I've tried probing for sync on IC270, pins 16, 12, 14 all look like they are something with sync but none of them stabilize the picture. I'll keep looking
Pin 16 looks like it should be the one.

Another option might be to tie pin 28 high to enable the extenal CVBS pin 12 and then insert sync there.
We posted at the same time. Pin 16 was it! I plan to go back and see if I can MUX now. Appreciate helping me troubleshoot.
possiblyanowl
Posts: 3
Joined: Wed Jan 01, 2020 8:14 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by possiblyanowl »

Hey all,

I recently acquired a very nice JVC D-Series AV32D201 (service manual here http://owl.haus/crt/jvc-av32d201-svm.pdf) and am hoping to RGB mod it. I have done an RGB mux mod before, so I am pretty familiar with the process, but something interesting was in the service manual.

On page 63, on connector CN005, which is listed as for optional add on boards, I believe, I see two RGB lines. MIX1_RGB, and RGB. It seems that this set is able to receive RGB input from add on cards (that I believe were intended for advance guide functionality).

Can anyone tell if any extra work besides just soldering onto these lines is required? Can anyone tell if blanking will be necessary? Are the resistor values all okay?


Thanks guys!
darvd
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:50 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by darvd »

Cinder wrote:Hello friends, buy a sony trinitron kv-21fv12 / 5 television with BA-5D chassis, make the 2 kinds of modifications I found. Mod 1.- inject the RGB into the bridges between the Micon and the Jungla chip with a resistance of 75 ohms. Mod 2.- lift the legs of the Jungla chip and inject the rgb signal with the 75 ohm resistors to ground and 0.1mf or 104 nanofarad capacitors. I add that I also took the 5 volt signal and the blanking signal connected to a switch to activate and deactivate the OSD signal and the synchronous signal from the composite video and then the Luma signal from the siper video and in supervideo it was the best option. Results: In the 2 types of modifications I made I never used consoles modified to rgb, I only used jamma pcb boards connected by a vga connector that I made and in the 2 modifications that I made the image saturation and brightness was very high and although I lowered the brightness and the box was not specific to show an acceptable image. I was playing with the values ​​of the resistors and discovered that for pcb jamma boards the best image was with 18 ohm resistors in each color line with the same ground connection and their respective capacitor. Here the weird thing is that the jamma pcb boards like Neo Geo and Cps1 and Cps2 the brightness and image can be adjusted very well, but in other jamma tables the image and brightness are extremely saturated in games like splatterhouse or Caveman ninja, in addition to in some jamma pcb boards for example Mortal kombat 2 and Captain America and The Avengers the vertical frequency was unstable because the image was constantly falling and I also tried to inject direct signal without resistance or capacitor and it does not show brightness or picture, so my conclusion was that of the 18 ohms that I agree with, they are the best for jamma pcbs but not for all games. I repeat that not using consoles, just add jjama together, could someone help me with this situation?
Mortal Kombat 2 is not 15khz, its 24khz. This could be your problem. Most of the midway games around that era do. Silent Scope 1 and 2 are also in that same boat.
Ilike2drive
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:55 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Ilike2drive »

Hoping someone on here can help me out. I ran this setup by soldering in the RGB lines after the resisters going to the jungle chip. I didn't have 4pdt toggle switch so I used a
6 pin one and just cut the blanking line and added 5v to the switch. When I toggle the switch it goes to black screen but I'm not getting an image. I'm assuming it's succefully blanking but idk what to do to get an image to show. Any input would be helpful. Also I realized I have unused rgb pins on the jungle chip would it be better to try running rgb through there?
Ilike2drive wrote:Hi, looking for a little help with the best way to mod my kv20m10. I have a picture of a setup I was going to replicate and schematics. Just unsure what to do with R025, R026, R027. I have 75ohm resistors and .1uf caps I was going to add going from the scart cable .

Image

Image

Image
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Ilike2drive wrote:Hoping someone on here can help me out. I ran this setup by soldering in the RGB lines after the resisters going to the jungle chip. I didn't have 4pdt toggle switch so I used a
6 pin one and just cut the blanking line and added 5v to the switch. When I toggle the switch it goes to black screen but I'm not getting an image. I'm assuming it's succefully blanking but idk what to do to get an image to show. Any input would be helpful. Also I realized I have unused rgb pins on the jungle chip would it be better to try running rgb through there?

Legs 16, 17 and 18 of the Jungle chip IC301 are the analog RGB inputs. You do not need to do anything with the OSD as it goes into a separate set of inputs.

No need for a big arse switch either. A single point double throw will do.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
abispac
Posts: 73
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:44 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

So my niece gave me a 19 ich tv its a curtis matches tronics model cm19022s, i could not locate a service manual, it has two chips, a toshiba ta1282n and a zilog 5007 or szm-370th1, i couldnt find information on the zilog chip , but the toshiba i got the pdf datasheet and a gif image Image
https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/4929 ... /TA1268N/1

Now according to the datasheet and the image, 14 its my blank signal, 15,16,17 are rgb, so it should be a straight mode right?
Image Image Image Image

So I just realise i have the same chassis as the 8bit guy, the same, it might be a little bit more modern but its the same ---smurfing--- one, so all i got to do to succeed its just straight copy his mod ,but i did the mod, exactly as the 8bit guy did, i also had no smoke coming up after getting everything together again, ill just need to test it with groovymame,So i can say im almost done with this mode, i just cant figureout what im missing. I did everything exactly as the 8bit guy did, well, not the fancy conector, as i might add it later on. Hook my pc with my vga brekout cable, and bam, clear colors but bad sync
Image
So i started emudrivers on my other tv (i had both monitors hooked, i always do that on crtdrivers) and dont matter what settings i choose, 15khz, 31khz o 60 khz, i cant get this thing to sync. i can still see that colors are gonna be good, i ust need a bit of help in here please. So so far, as the 8bit guy did, the rgb cables have the 75ohm resistors terminated to ground, all grounds go to ground, i get the 5v volts from the same place, and the sync i try to get it from the yellow rca entrance on the back of the tv. but no luck. Do i need to add a 75ohn resistor on the sync cable as well? or do i need to build the vga cable has he did on his second video? thanks for any help.
This is how far i got.
Image

and a link to the second video where he builds the vga cable.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkpSBK3g-gA&feature=share
Ilike2drive
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:55 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Ilike2drive »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
Ilike2drive wrote:Hoping someone on here can help me out. I ran this setup by soldering in the RGB lines after the resisters going to the jungle chip. I didn't have 4pdt toggle switch so I used a
6 pin one and just cut the blanking line and added 5v to the switch. When I toggle the switch it goes to black screen but I'm not getting an image. I'm assuming it's succefully blanking but idk what to do to get an image to show. Any input would be helpful. Also I realized I have unused rgb pins on the jungle chip would it be better to try running rgb through there?

Legs 16, 17 and 18 of the Jungle chip IC301 are the analog RGB inputs. You do not need to do anything with the OSD as it goes into a separate set of inputs.

No need for a big arse switch either. A single point double throw will do.
Thank you ,I'll give that a shot.
dork
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2020 5:02 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by dork »

Hi folks. Finally got some time to go back to my CRT mod attempt on a Sharp 19N-M100S CRT. The jungle chip is a IX3354CE.

I think I might be SOL with a digital RGB OSD interface. Looking at the OSD IC (IC2001), the R,G,B outs are all marked active low. Which in my limited electrical experience doesn't seem like would play nicely when trying in the 75ohm terminated RGB lines from my SCART cable. I think this jives with my experience, where if I disconnect, say the Red lead from my SCART cable, I get a solid red screen. In other words, 0V on the OSD R-In pin on the jungle IC results in a solid red screen. Disconnect the SCART B line too, and now my screen is magenta (100% R + 100% B).

Anyone with more electrical experience care to weigh in? Does this active low RGB pinout support the idea that I'm dealing with an unmoddable jungle IC?

Image
abispac
Posts: 73
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2020 3:44 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

i got the pdf datasheet and a gif image Image
https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/4929 ... /TA1268N/1

Now according to the datasheet and the image, 14 its my blank signal, 15,16,17 are rgb, so it should be a straight mode right?
Image Image Image Image

So I just realise i have the same chassis as the 8bit guy, the same, it might be a little bit more modern but its the same ---smurfing--- one, so all i got to do to succeed its just straight copy his mod ,but i did the mod, exactly as the 8bit guy did, i also had no smoke coming up after getting everything together again, ill just need to test it with groovymame,So i can say im almost done with this mode, i just cant figureout what im missing. I did everything exactly as the 8bit guy did, well, not the fancy conector, as i might add it later on. Hook my pc with my vga brekout cable, and bam, clear colors but bad sync
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So i started emudrivers on my other tv (i had both monitors hooked, i always do that on crtdrivers) and dont matter what settings i choose, 15khz, 31khz o 60 khz, i cant get this thing to sync. i can still see that colors are gonna be good, i ust need a bit of help in here please. So so far, as the 8bit guy did, the rgb cables have the 75ohm resistors terminated to ground, all grounds go to ground, i get the 5v volts from the same place, and the sync i try to get it from the yellow rca entrance on the back of the tv. but no luck. Do i need to add a 75ohn resistor on the sync cable as well? or do i need to build the vga cable has he did on his second video? thanks for any help.
This is how far i got.
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im not getting sync from the composit video or rf, can anyone help me figure out how to get sync from this pleas, thanks in advance
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Kabal2X
Posts: 31
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 9:55 pm
Location: Chile

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Kabal2X »

darvd wrote:
Cinder wrote:Hello friends, buy a sony trinitron kv-21fv12 / 5 television with BA-5D chassis, make the 2 kinds of modifications I found. Mod 1.- inject the RGB into the bridges between the Micon and the Jungla chip with a resistance of 75 ohms. Mod 2.- lift the legs of the Jungla chip and inject the rgb signal with the 75 ohm resistors to ground and 0.1mf or 104 nanofarad capacitors. I add that I also took the 5 volt signal and the blanking signal connected to a switch to activate and deactivate the OSD signal and the synchronous signal from the composite video and then the Luma signal from the siper video and in supervideo it was the best option. Results: In the 2 types of modifications I made I never used consoles modified to rgb, I only used jamma pcb boards connected by a vga connector that I made and in the 2 modifications that I made the image saturation and brightness was very high and although I lowered the brightness and the box was not specific to show an acceptable image. I was playing with the values ​​of the resistors and discovered that for pcb jamma boards the best image was with 18 ohm resistors in each color line with the same ground connection and their respective capacitor. Here the weird thing is that the jamma pcb boards like Neo Geo and Cps1 and Cps2 the brightness and image can be adjusted very well, but in other jamma tables the image and brightness are extremely saturated in games like splatterhouse or Caveman ninja, in addition to in some jamma pcb boards for example Mortal kombat 2 and Captain America and The Avengers the vertical frequency was unstable because the image was constantly falling and I also tried to inject direct signal without resistance or capacitor and it does not show brightness or picture, so my conclusion was that of the 18 ohms that I agree with, they are the best for jamma pcbs but not for all games. I repeat that not using consoles, just add jjama together, could someone help me with this situation?
Mortal Kombat 2 is not 15khz, its 24khz. This could be your problem. Most of the midway games around that era do. Silent Scope 1 and 2 are also in that same boat.
All Mortal Kombat games are 15khz, but I agree that there is something different about those boards that make it difficult to use on RGB modded TVs, can't exactly remember what it was
SamIAm
Posts: 475
Joined: Thu Mar 03, 2005 1:09 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by SamIAm »

Kabal2X wrote:All Mortal Kombat games are 15khz, but I agree that there is something different about those boards that make it difficult to use on RGB modded TVs, can't exactly remember what it was
I think the vertical refresh rate is 55Hz. Could that be it?
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Syntax
Posts: 1771
Joined: Wed Aug 09, 2017 12:10 am
Location: Australia

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Syntax »

54hz, and a CRT wont blink an eye at it, worse case you have to tune V.Hold.
Anything between 50 and 60 is fine.
bengmo
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Mar 29, 2020 10:36 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by bengmo »

abispac are you on the right channel? You should be on the same channel as composite input i think
mgerety
Posts: 54
Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2018 2:24 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by mgerety »

Need a little help with an KV32s40 - AA-2D chassis.

OSD Chip Output

Image

Jungle Input
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Few questions:

Question 1:
Looks like the inline resistors are 200 ohm from the OSD chip, with no diodes. When I plug 200ohms into the OSD mux calculator,and remove the diode voltage drop, I get 1.01V using 0ohm for external inline resistors.
Image

As I understand it, I want that output voltage number in the light blue to be 0.7V -- Not sure what to do here.

Question 2:
There are 100ohm inline resistors on the RGB lines going into the jungle. On the Kv300 i had similar resistors that were on the underside of the jungle chip and they were removed and the pads were not jumped. Am I doing that here?

I think I have a 5v source and everything else should be good, I just think I'm missing something here. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Thanks,
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

mgerety wrote:Need a little help with an KV32s40 - AA-2D chassis.

OSD Chip Output

Image

Jungle Input
Image

Few questions:

Question 1:
Looks like the inline resistors are 200 ohm from the OSD chip, with no diodes. When I plug 200ohms into the OSD mux calculator,and remove the diode voltage drop, I get 1.01V using 0ohm for external inline resistors.
Image

As I understand it, I want that output voltage number in the light blue to be 0.7V -- Not sure what to do here.

Question 2:
There are 100ohm inline resistors on the RGB lines going into the jungle. On the Kv300 i had similar resistors that were on the underside of the jungle chip and they were removed and the pads were not jumped. Am I doing that here?

I think I have a 5v source and everything else should be good, I just think I'm missing something here. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Thanks,
This one has been covered in the thread already I’m pretty sure. Iirc this is one where there is RGBI is coming from the jungle and it goes through a series of transistors to make it RGB. The OSD grounding resistors are the ones after the last set of transistors before they head towards the jungle. You just remove them and the OSD mux resistor is just their value minus 75 (subtracting 75 from the existing OSD grounding resistor and using that as a mux value is a way of cheating).

If you have a look through the thread you should find it.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
flynnsbit
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by flynnsbit »

flynnsbit wrote:Success! Sync was on one left leg of C211 which is connected to pin 16 on the TDA8368A chip. This Magnavox PR1910C123 needs isolation.
Blanking on R371 (5v)
R372 (B), R373 (G), and R374 (R)
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Examples:
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Larger pictures for reference: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fuZIF ... x81ZDpC6LP

Well, this CRT consumed me. I tried and tried to get it dialed in but I ended up with two issues. Sync is "jumping" the picture ever so slightly every coouple of seconds. I don't know if it is clean enough off of that capacitor or if it something from the RF side causing interfience because I don't have an AV input to change to. Blanking is 5v for sure, anything below and it drops to reqular picture. The other issue is I cannot get the colors to "mix" or blend correctly. I added 10K pots to each RGB ground and can adjust them to look decent, but it seems the "greyscale" side of things is just White or black. On my TPG3000 I am not getting the gradual greyscale below the colors and in Sonic there isn't a gradient in the logo, it's just sharp bars.

example: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E77pjV ... sp=sharing

I found 3 Sony Trinitons from this older lady that finally was upgrading to LCDs and got them for $10 a piece. 13 inch, 27 inch, and 32 inch. I'll mess with those.

I uploaded the Philips.Magnavox Schematic in case anyone ever ends up needed it and wants to continue this journey with this tube.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1oUzkG ... jqa93pwZBX

For Reference:
1. Cut R371, R372, R373, R374. 5v into R371 for Blanking. R372-374 RGB. Test Point 10 TP10 is 5V. one leg of C211 is CSYNC. I couldn't get her any further than that.
madman_lxl
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Apr 22, 2020 2:35 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by madman_lxl »

Hi,

I have a Samsung SMP-150 that I want to do an RGB Mod on.

From what i can work out. i need to bring in the RGB on pins 23,24,25 and pull 5v onto pin 26.
Trying to work out two things one from the chip datasheet/ do i put a 300ohm resistor on each line and how does the c-sync need to work?

Sorry all a bit of a dumbass when understanding this older analog stuff.

Service manual for the Samsung SMP-150
https://bit.ly/2SdgkQ1


Datasheet for the TDA837x
https://bit.ly/2Y3Qi5s
MarkOZLAD
Posts: 1004
Joined: Thu May 18, 2017 12:39 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

@mgerety

I found my notes on the AA-2D chassis...

..to mod this set is to remove the 390R CHIP resistors R1123, R1128 and R133

...Without simulating the circuit I don't really know what size inline resistors you will need for the mux but if we assume the 390R that in place are correct, I would say that we should probably go with 330R. The 330R plus our 75R RGB termination resistors will leave use with 405R which should be close enough and will actually pump up the OSD a little which is often beneficial. You could use 500R potentiometers if you like to tweak the value.

....You will need somewhere to tap in your RGB, I would suggest the ungrounded pads left by removing the R1123, R1128 and R133 resistors. Basically somewhere between R1123, R1128 and R133 and R1355, R1356 and R1357.

....For blanking I think I'd grab a 5V line from somewhere and run it through a 220R and connect it to the leg of L003 that is closest to IC001.

DJO_Maverick was the user who performed the mod, he provided some feedback..

PS: an extra tidbit I discovered for your consideration that might simplify a fix or the next one:

On this particular model, on every color line there are unpopulated grounding/filter capacitor pads, between R1121 and 1123, 1126 and 1128, and 131 and 133; these don't show on the service schematic. ##### THESE MAY BE A GOOD PLACE FOR A TWIST METHOD #####

On the KV32s42 that I'm about to get, there are apparently plenty of strategically placed jumpers that don't exist on this version of the AA-2D... most promising-seeming is that there are jumpers after the color/intensity mix point but before the final 100 ohm series resistor and coupling cap on the way to the jungle. There are also jumper wires prior to the buffer network, and a jumper on the OSD blanking line prior to the inductor.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
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