TV RGB mod thread

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KPackratt2k
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KPackratt2k »

That's what happened when I was experimenting with the first TV of that chassis I've modded when I forgot to connect my RGB termination resistors to ground correctly. The Microcontroller's RGB output draws too much current to the Jungle Chip, which can cause the TV to turn off after 10 seconds. Definitely try new resistors when you get them, that should help.

If this was a model other than the SecureView, you could've flashed the EEPROM with the E13318 firmware I've linked to in one of my older posts if you had an EEPROM programmer, but I understand if you chose to inject your sync into the tuner line if you don't have the means of flashing the EEPROM.
abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

KPackratt2k wrote:That's what happened when I was experimenting with the first TV of that chassis I've modded when I forgot to connect my RGB termination resistors to ground correctly. The Microcontroller's RGB output draws too much current to the Jungle Chip, which can cause the TV to turn off after 10 seconds. Definitely try new resistors when you get them, that should help.

If this was a model other than the SecureView, you could've flashed the EEPROM with the E13318 firmware I've linked to in one of my older posts if you had an EEPROM programmer, but I understand if you chose to inject your sync into the tuner line if you don't have the means of flashing the EEPROM.
Whats the purpose of flashing the eprom? as i do have one of those chinese eprom flashers laying around.
Today i bought the new resistors, this time the do read on the multimeter, so my guess is this time all should work just fine.
KPackratt2k
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KPackratt2k »

abispac wrote:Whats the purpose of flashing the eprom? as i do have one of those chinese eprom flashers laying around.
Today i bought the new resistors, this time the do read on the multimeter, so my guess is this time all should work just fine.
By flashing the EEPROM on an RF-only TX808 set, you can enable the AV input so you can run your sync and audio into the 4-pin header on the area where the AV inputs would be on the board without having to isolate the tuner or use a 75 ohm terminating resistor (as the board already has one for the AV input). By doing this, you can make it function like it had an AV input from the factory.

This also changes the TV's settings to those for the TV that the firmware was dumped from, one of those was the OSD language setting. The OSD has a changeable language setting and from what I remember that firmware dump had it set to Spanish, you can change it back to English from the menu if you want.

Bear in mind that the firmware flashing trick won't work on the SecureView models due to a different microcontroller ROM.
abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

KPackratt2k wrote:
abispac wrote:Whats the purpose of flashing the eprom? as i do have one of those chinese eprom flashers laying around.
Today i bought the new resistors, this time the do read on the multimeter, so my guess is this time all should work just fine.
By flashing the EEPROM on an RF-only TX808 set, you can enable the AV input so you can run your sync and audio into the 4-pin header on the area where the AV inputs would be on the board without having to isolate the tuner or use a 75 ohm terminating resistor (as the board already has one for the AV input). By doing this, you can make it function like it had an AV input from the factory.

This also changes the TV's settings to those for the TV that the firmware was dumped from, one of those was the OSD language setting. The OSD has a changeable language setting and from what I remember that firmware dump had it set to Spanish, you can change it back to English from the menu if you want.

Bear in mind that the firmware flashing trick won't work on the SecureView models due to a different microcontroller ROM.
Well, im actually pleased with the results. Fire it up today and menu was 100% readable, then at night, i set up my groovymame pc, with emudrivers, hooked the pc to the vga port, and voala, looks so dark, but then i remember about the trick, opened up the tv againg , turn the flyback brightness a bit, and bang, perfect colors.
One thing i hate about moding tvs for rgb to use as arcade monitors, is the lack of horizontal and vertical width, and in some sets, even with the factory settings you cant close the image or centered as it should, but on this set i have high hopes as , if you can see on the pictures, its almost centered, i have to adjust just a tiny bit, so hopefully i get a good centered image after i get me a remote.
Also my set has the a/v front plugs, so i guess i dont need to flash the firmaware?
Anyway, thanks for your help.

Image
Image
Image
maffatil
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maffatil »

I'm trying out a mux mod on a TV I don't think anyone has taken a crack at yet. I'm not sure of the chassis number, but the TV itself is a Toshiba 32DF46 which is a very late crt with many, many smd components, but it still has separate micron and chroma chips.

I traced the RGB and blanking lines from the micon to the chroma chip and found multiple grounding resistors on the RGB lines, (all smd) but not the blanking line. I believe that this means these are analog signals rather than digital? I can't find a data sheet on either chip to be sure...

Anyway where I am really stuck is that each of the RGB lines have multiple resistors as well as a transistor on each line, but no capacitors and no diodes. Assuming that the RGB inputs on the chroma chip are analog, would I just need to add 100nf capacitors into each signal before the chroma chip? Since I have multiple resistors, how to I calculate the values of the external RGB lines because the chart from the "guide" looks like its only accounting for one? Should I also add diodes somewhere or is it best to leave that alone? Finally, should I be concerned that there are multiple resistors on the ground line?
Here's a picture of the board I took and traced on in paint. I have each component labeled with its smd value on it. The ground is in orange because black was waaaay too hard to see. Sorry if the white text is a little hard to read. Lol
Spoiler
Image
I know it's very likely that this chassis just isn't comparable with the mod, but it was free so I thought I'd give it a go.

(Now edited so that you can actually see my massive photo :lol: )
Last edited by maffatil on Tue Oct 11, 2022 2:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

abispac wrote:One thing i hate about moding tvs for rgb to use as arcade monitors, is the lack of horizontal and vertical width
Interesting you say that because I usually find the sets have horizontal position, vertical position and vertical amplitude(size). Horizontal size, however, is missing on many sets as you say and can be quite the pain.

If you are using a PC can't you alter H Size in software?
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abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
abispac wrote:One thing i hate about moding tvs for rgb to use as arcade monitors, is the lack of horizontal and vertical width
Interesting you say that because I usually find the sets have horizontal position, vertical position and vertical amplitude(size). Horizontal size, however, is missing on many sets as you say and can be quite the pain.

If you are using a PC can't you alter H Size in software?
so far i have moded around 8 sets, out of those, 3 cuold not be totally centered and te rest looked nice, so far smsung and rca are the best for me. Sony kv models are cool too, but they do not go well with midway games on groovymame pcs. I still think moding consumer tvs are way better than having an arcade monitor, as most arcade monitor right now, the chassis are to much worn out and they always breaking for something, plus its getting harder for some models to find a flyback. And lets be honest, if you replace an arcade monitor with a consumer tv, it will last years as this cosumer tvs still have at least 10 years life expetancy. Anyway by got off the road on your comment.
Yes most sets have vertical/horizontal positio, but that wont help wit overscan.
Horizontal size as i said, so far samsung/curthismate ,rca, and sony work just fine. Disney tvs, are crap at that. At least the one i have (mikey mouse tv) is.
And vertical size ain that bad in most sets.
""If you are using a PC can't you alter H Size in software?["" i have tried, and the results wont look good
Its a coin toss, bt hey, long live crts, hopefully in the future some rich guy would be bored and starts manufacturing them againg, just for fun.
sanyosucks
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by sanyosucks »

So I have an unknown sanyo tv that I gutted and put in my arcade cabinet years ago... The jungle chip is the LA7673. Has anyone managed to get RGB working with this chip? I searched already and see some failed attempts. Image

What would happen if I lifted the YRGB output pins and connected a component cable? Would I get a picture? I imagine even if I did it would be all messed up but I there are pots for adjustment on the board that I can mess with.
maffatil
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maffatil »

What would happen if I lifted the YRGB output pins and connected a component cable? Would I get a picture? I imagine even if I did it would be all messed up but I there are pots for adjustment on the board that I can mess with.
I'm 100% not an expert in this, but since it looks like that jungle just has RGB outputs rather than inputs I don't think its able to be modded for RGB. Of course if you're adventurous enough you could try to connect cables, but obviously there's no guarantee that anything will even show up on the screen. It's even possible that you could fry the chip or some other part or whatever you have hooked up to it. That being said, if you're not too concerned about it, give it a go.
KPackratt2k
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KPackratt2k »

sanyosucks wrote:So I have an unknown sanyo tv that I gutted and put in my arcade cabinet years ago... The jungle chip is the LA7673. Has anyone managed to get RGB working with this chip? I searched already and see some failed attempts. http://www.datasheetq.com/contents-imag ... 73-DI1.png

What would happen if I lifted the YRGB output pins and connected a component cable? Would I get a picture? I imagine even if I did it would be all messed up but I there are pots for adjustment on the board that I can mess with.
The RGB+Blanking input of that chip is Digital RGB only, attempting to inject Analog RGB into it will result in an image with very limited colors.

Your only hope would be to neckboard mod it by lifting the RGB signals from the neckboard cable and injecting amplified RGB into it. This is a very tricky affair for a variety of reasons and it's likely not worth it if you're able to find a set with a better jungle chip. If you're using this with an arcade PCB you might be able to get away with injecting RGB from your arcade PCB into the neckboard and adjusting if necessary since the signal from arcade boards is already amplified. I saw one other person doing that on a set that couldn't be modified any other way.

If you're using a computer in your arcade setup, Tim Worthington has developed a simple amplifier circuit that might be useful in this scenario:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... ga2arc.htm
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

maffatil wrote:I'm trying out a mux mod on a TV I don't think anyone has taken a crack at yet. I'm not sure of the chassis number, but the TV itself is a Toshiba 32DF46 which is a very late crt with many, many smd components, but it still has separate micron and chroma chips.
I'm 90% sure this TV can't be modded. If it's anything like the other Orion TVs produced in 2006, it uses a Sanyo jungle chip that set for digital RGB.
maffatil
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maffatil »

matt wrote:I'm 90% sure this TV can't be modded. If it's anything like the other Orion TVs produced in 2006, it uses a Sanyo jungle chip that set for digital RGB.
Ouch, but once I started poking around in the thing I started to assume that. I saw on the crt database page for muxxing that if you feed 5v to the blanking pin and you get anything other than a black screen it's digital, so I'm going to try that out to be sure.
sanyosucks
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by sanyosucks »

KPackratt2k wrote:
sanyosucks wrote:So I have an unknown sanyo tv that I gutted and put in my arcade cabinet years ago... The jungle chip is the LA7673. Has anyone managed to get RGB working with this chip? I searched already and see some failed attempts. http://www.datasheetq.com/contents-imag ... 73-DI1.png

What would happen if I lifted the YRGB output pins and connected a component cable? Would I get a picture? I imagine even if I did it would be all messed up but I there are pots for adjustment on the board that I can mess with.
The RGB+Blanking input of that chip is Digital RGB only, attempting to inject Analog RGB into it will result in an image with very limited colors.

Your only hope would be to neckboard mod it by lifting the RGB signals from the neckboard cable and injecting amplified RGB into it. This is a very tricky affair for a variety of reasons and it's likely not worth it if you're able to find a set with a better jungle chip. If you're using this with an arcade PCB you might be able to get away with injecting RGB from your arcade PCB into the neckboard and adjusting if necessary since the signal from arcade boards is already amplified. I saw one other person doing that on a set that couldn't be modified any other way.

If you're using a computer in your arcade setup, Tim Worthington has developed a simple amplifier circuit that might be useful in this scenario:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... ga2arc.htm
Thanks I'll check that out! Just to be clear I was thinking of sending component video (ypbpr) on pins 18,19,20 and let the chassis handle amplification from there. Although now that I'm thinking about it, it might be YUV instead. My understanding is the jungle chip takes the input+osd and combines them and outputs rgb to the amplification circuitry.

Image

I think i'll be attempting the vga2arc mod but I don't understand where this board connects to the CRT chassis... directly to the neckboard? Is there a guide somewhere?

BTW the chassis has a model number: B10536 (I) . Tried to look it up but came up pretty much empty handed. has a single composite input and audio input/output.
Last edited by sanyosucks on Tue Oct 11, 2022 9:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
maffatil
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maffatil »

I took another look at the chroma schematic for the Toshiba 32DF46 and noticed that next to each pin there's a number that I think is the input voltage?

Image

If that's the case, wouldn't the OSD voltages being 3.3v mean that at least by the time they get to the chroma chip, the singals are likely analog?
sanyosucks
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by sanyosucks »

also have this sanyo as well that could be a candidate but apparently there have been some issues modding it... atleast I could find the service manual for this one: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69984 ... 13204.html
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

maffatil wrote:I took another look at the chroma schematic for the Toshiba 32DF46 and noticed that next to each pin there's a number that I think is the input voltage?


If that's the case, wouldn't the OSD voltages being 3.3v mean that at least by the time they get to the chroma chip, the singals are likely analog?
No. If you look at the rest of the circuit, it's digital RGB. A lack of coupling capacitors is the biggest giveaway.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Just a note to anyone that messages me to ask for help with mods….

I have a full time job, a wife and kids. I have lost a lot of my passion for this modding caper.

If I get the time and energy I’m happy to help people but it seems I’m seriously lacking in both lately.

If it seems like I’m ignoring you it’s nothing personal.

Great to see there’s a small new group of guys that are answering questions on this thread. I still read the thread regularly and there is some excellent work being done.
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abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

MarkOZLAD wrote:Just a note to anyone that messages me to ask for help with mods….

I have a full time job, a wife and kids. I have lost a lot of my passion for this modding caper.

If I get the time and energy I’m happy to help people but it seems I’m seriously lacking in both lately.

If it seems like I’m ignoring you it’s nothing personal.

Great to see there’s a small new group of guys that are answering questions on this thread. I still read the thread regularly and there is some excellent work being done.
Yeah we tend to give the best guy a hard time by asking him for help, in this case is you... I know you helped me once in private and im very thankfull, but yes, getting asked for lots of folks can get anoying sometimes. Im trying to learn but my knoledge is limited. I do hope ill lear enough to help others too, but one thing is clear, is, that by posting your succesfull mod, it can be easy for another person to follow up instructions in similar mods. Like the last one i did, just copied KPackratt2k
work that he also copied fro another guy and i had a succesful mod. I did had a couple of hiccups but nothing i couldnt handle. thanks Markozlad for sharing your knoledge.
sanyosucks
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by sanyosucks »

sanyosucks wrote:So I have an unknown sanyo tv that I gutted and put in my arcade cabinet years ago... The jungle chip is the LA7673. Has anyone managed to get RGB working with this chip? I searched already and see some failed attempts. Image

What would happen if I lifted the YRGB output pins and connected a component cable? Would I get a picture? I imagine even if I did it would be all messed up but I there are pots for adjustment on the board that I can mess with.
Ok I did some more research on this and found the datasheet for the microcontroller that handles the OSD+blanking: https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-file/5461 ... C864016B/1 The only one I could find for this chip is in Japanese but there is a similar one here in english(pin numbers are different but overall the same): https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 4112B.html

Here is how the rgb is wired to the chassis: Image

So looking at these it seems for some reason the RGB signal range is 4.5-5.5v. I believe it is still an anolog signal based on what others have done with the same jungle chip. What circuit would be needed to get my rgb signal to be in that range? What is the range of a standard RGB signal?

Here is the schematic I'm going off of: https://elektrotanya.com/sanyo_ds13630_ ... nload.html it's not for the same tv but the components are similar enough (same jungle chip, very close microcontroller.

The microcontroller in my board is: LC864016V 5487. I can't find a datasheet anywhere for this exact chip...


screenshot of datasheet for microcontroller:

Image
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PacManPlus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by PacManPlus »

Hello All:

So I picked up an RCA F25281 TV (for free) which, after doing some research, found out that it uses a CTC185 chassis. This TV only has RF, nothing else.

After going through the service manual for the CTC185, I see it uses a LA7612N. I see this chip referenced several times in this thread, but not much on what to do with it. It also uses a 15441-170 (At least I think that's a '1' in the beginning) / TCE 1999JCP / m22BC0014Y (the 'B' could be an '8', not sure).

So I was looking the service manual for the CTC185, and I come across the text from this page:

"On Screen Display (OSD)

The CTC185 uses the same OSD circuitry configuration as the CTC177 chassis. Red,
green and blue outputs from U3101 (pins 17, 16 and 15) drive the red, green and blue
OSD inputs on U1001 (pins 34, 35 and 36) producing a full color OSD.

Horizontal and vertical sync are input to pins 26 and 27 of U3101 and are used to control
the position of the OSD on the screen.

The Fast Switch (FSW) signal from U3101 pin 18 is an active high signal that switches
U1001’s RGB signal path to the OSD signal. This switching signal is only present during
the time interval that OSD is being displayed. If this signal should ever become “stuck”
high, a no video symptom would result."

Note:
U3101 = 15441-170 / TCE 1999JCP / m22BC0014Y
U1001 = LA7612N

Am I misreading this, or can I just do the following:
- Intercept the R, G, and B pins that go to the U1001 (LA7612N), with my R, G, and B inputs (tying each one to a 75 ohm resistor to ground)
- Feed my Sync into both the 26 and 27 pins of the U3101 (15441) - I only have one sync line which is used for both
- Put pin 18 of the U3101 (15441) on a switch with +5v to tie high when I want to use the R, G, and B inputs?

Is this correct?
Thank you in advance...
Bob
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Osirus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Osirus »

PacManPlus wrote: - Feed my Sync into both the 26 and 27 pins of the U3101 (15441) - I only have one sync line which is used for both
I'm not an expert but I do not think this will work. The chip uses separate sync so you'll have to feed it separate sync to work.
KPackratt2k
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KPackratt2k »

My friend wanted me to mod a 32" Sony KV-32XBR10 TV, so I did. The funny thing is I ordered everything to make the modchip from PCBJunkie's video because I thought this set would need it due to lacking PIP and being from the same era as his set, but when I tested blanking it worked right away, so I spent more than I had to on this mod since the modchip was unnecessary for this model. Upon the first start up after the mod, I had to go into the service menu by pushing the tiny button on the input jack panel with a paperclip while pushing the power button, from there I adjusted the horizontal position and the RGB Picture (RGBP) settings in the service menu until the image looked correct. I also had to disconnect the velocity modulation cable because it was causing the incoming sync signal to be overlayed onto the RGB image.

Photo album with schematics: https://imgur.com/a/sDMaGXX

If anyone here has an XBR51 (or similar set) that has its RGB input disabled, I'll be happy to send you the PCBJunkie chip for $15 + the cost of shipping to your area. I can't promise that it will work for you since I have no way of testing it, but I'll certainly make it within the specifications of the PCBJunkie original (i.e. the one in the picture on his page).

https://pcbjunkie.net/index.php/project ... e-modchip/
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PacManPlus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by PacManPlus »

Osirus wrote:
PacManPlus wrote: - Feed my Sync into both the 26 and 27 pins of the U3101 (15441) - I only have one sync line which is used for both
I'm not an expert but I do not think this will work. The chip uses separate sync so you'll have to feed it separate sync to work.
Ok, so here's what I did. Instead of my original strategy, I went after the "LA7612N" chip instead and lifted these pins from the board:
33 - FAST SW
34 - RED IN
35 - GREEN IN
36 - BLUE IN
38 - LUMA IN
40 - CHROMA IN

33 was for the 'blanking', 34, 35, and 36 are R, G, and B, respectively. 38 is for Sync, and I lifted 40 because someone said that you should disconnect Chroma when using Luma for Sync.
I didn't add any resistors yet, as I just wanted to see if I got anything...
I connected the 'FAST SW' to +5V (because of what it said in the manual in my post above) and I connected all of the other signals to their respective counterparts.

Finally, I connected them to my test board (a Pac-Man board).

I got nothing.

Disappointed, I disconnected the 'FAST SW' from the +5v... and suddenly I got a picture! I don't quite understand why, but at least now I can add the 75 ohms to the R,G,B and Sync lines to see if the colors come out better.

Cool! Thanks, guys!

EDIT - I had to use different values for the resistors to get the colors right (all three were higher values, ranging from 330 ohms to 1.5K ohms - I think YMMV), and no resistor on the Sync line. It still bugs me that we can't shift the horizontal picture. Anyway, I'm happy with the results.
yopalien
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by yopalien »

Hi all,
I'm going to attempt to mod a Sony KV20M42 (BA-4D) using the guide here: https://github.com/brendanseattle/SonyR ... main/BA-4D . It looks fairly straightforward for a modding idiot like me :mrgreen: , but I did have a few questions before attempting it. The guide mentions adding a 1000 ohm resistor to the blanking line causes it to not work on the smaller 13 and 20 inch sets and to not install one. Is there a "correct" value resistor to add to enable to blanking and not cause any potential damage? This model uses a slightly different jungle chip (CXA2061S) than the guide (CXA2133S), are they pretty much interchangeable?

Service manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/69960 ... 20m42.html
Jungle: https://i.imgur.com/BoMipnE.png

Thanks!
george_a1312
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by george_a1312 »

hey there culexus

did you manage to make this work? I have exactly the same monitor here and would love to RGB-mod it.

br,
george
culexus wrote:Hi I may get me a Panasonic wm-cm 1480 and started to look at a possible RGB mod for it. Never done this before so I ask here to see if Im way off :)
I know all about the risk of high voltages so no worry.

I got the schematics for the monitor and as you can see there is a MPU that controlles the Jungle chip (AN5192K), if I look at the RGB in for this chip I
see that the RGB lines are all tied together. And pictures online when viewing the OSD is all grayish. So there is only one Line from the MPU to input of
the RGB at the Jugle chip. I guess that is the reasson why it is all gray. So I will cut traces on the pcb to seperate the RGB lines and copple the one sigle line
from the MPU with 3x diodes "1n4148" before it goes into the RGB lines of the Jungle. I hope that this will work:) Not shure on that one.

Next up is just to feed the RGB from A BNC connector at the back ringt to the Jungle chip RGB in. I made a schematic for it have a look.
You can also see the switch for the blanking so I can switch it to RGB mode when I need that.

My main goal is that I do get the OSD to work even if I use the RGB in, and by toggle switch back to OSD mode all will be stock.

What do you think?

My drawing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FfajE7 ... sp=sharing

Snapshot from the manual
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aqViFd ... sp=sharing

Service manual https://drive.google.com/file/d/17RoNPr ... sp=sharing
Derf
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Derf »

I'm RGB modding a JVC C-13011 which has a Toshiba TA1242N Jungle IC.

I have hooked up:
Pin 14 (blanking) to a switch
5V from tuner to the switch
Pin 15 (red)
Pin 16 (green)
Pin 17 (blue)

All BNC jack grounds are tied together and to a ground pad on the board. The RGB pins each have a 0.1uF cap in series and 75ohm resistor to ground.

However, it is not syncing. Looks the same if I unplug the sync cable as well or plug sync into the composite RCA jack. Also tried a 0.1uF cap on sync, but did not help. Any ideas?

Image
Image
KPackratt2k
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KPackratt2k »

What are you using for sync? If you're feeding it raw TTL CSYNC, then that's likely why it won't sync. Make sure your sync line is attenuated (if you're using a SCART CSYNC cable, there should be a resistor on the sync line). If that's not the case, see if the Composite video jack solder joints are broken. If they are, try reflowing them.

You're not using a CSYNC cable on a 1CHIP-03 revision SNES console, are you?
glopur
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2022 6:22 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by glopur »

Tengugurl wrote:Yay!!!

Next time on CRT modding, I will figure out the stupid service menu combo to fix this convergence mess. (240p suite pics in link)

Display+5+ volume up is not working @_@
Did you ever figure this out? Mine looks about the opposite as yours, geometry is near perfect but its horizontally shifted. Display 5 + volume is not bringing anything differently up when I power it on.
Derf
Posts: 26
Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2020 12:15 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Derf »

KPackratt2k wrote:What are you using for sync? If you're feeding it raw TTL CSYNC, then that's likely why it won't sync. Make sure your sync line is attenuated (if you're using a SCART CSYNC cable, there should be a resistor on the sync line). If that's not the case, see if the Composite video jack solder joints are broken. If they are, try reflowing them.

You're not using a CSYNC cable on a 1CHIP-03 revision SNES console, are you?
I'm using a SNES BNC cable on a 2chip SNES, and the cable attenuates to regular csync. I don't think it's the composite jacks since regular composite video works.
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RVA818XLAY
Posts: 6
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2022 6:15 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by RVA818XLAY »

Derf wrote: Looks the same if I unplug the sync cable as well or plug sync into the composite RCA jack.
If it looks the same then the TV isn't receiving the sync signal, right? Can you measure and check that a signal is actually going down the sync line?
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