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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:39 pm 


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Has anyone managed to add a (switchless) region free mod to the Sega Genesis 2 VA1 boards (basically model 2 but big motherboards, not the 3/4 motherboards found in VA3 and above)?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:34 pm 


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SavagePencil wrote:
Can anyone explain what it is that a slower burn is supposed to do? I get that it should be a digital copy, but do slower burns allow the burned areas to be "deeper" or some other way easier for older drives to read?


Less chance for errors to occur in the burning process. If the lasers on the old drives are starting to go, their error correction is not as good anymore, so the more accurate of a burn you get the better.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:58 pm 



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arithmaldor wrote:
Less chance for errors to occur in the burning process. If the lasers on the old drives are starting to go, their error correction is not as good anymore, so the more accurate of a burn you get the better.


Are those types of errors not caught if you do a verification pass? I mean, if it's a digital copy, it should be a byte-for-byte copy.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 8:37 am 


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Can anyone recommend a good 1080P projector for gaming; mainly retro gaming through the OSSC or Framemeister? Preferably one with good solid color, that doesn't look too washed out.
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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 3:20 pm 



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Mantis128 wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good 1080P projector for gaming; mainly retro gaming through the OSSC or Framemeister? Preferably one with good solid color, that doesn't look too washed out.

The Sony G90 should do everything from 240p to 1080p and be light gun compatible, but good luck mounting it. :P


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2018 6:47 pm 



Joined: 19 Oct 2013
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Location: Riverside, CA
While we're on the subject of projector recommendations: How about one that will do a 4:3 40" image inside 36-48" ?

I have a Megalo 410 on the way whose original projector is lost. I'm considering throwing a PS4 in there and running widescreen with bars on the top and bottom, but if I can find a projector that'll do 31k 4:3 in the distance/size needed, maybe I'll go to running real hardware in it instead.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 12:10 pm 


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FinalBaton wrote:
Can someone recommend an excellent older DVD player (with component jacks)? It doesn't need to have great upscaling or deinterlacing(if at all), although it's a bonus. Just need for it to output a super solid 480i picture. It's for use on a standard def CRT, to watch 4:3 anime and movies

I've been looking for a cheap Oppo DV-983H for a while now and still haven't found one. So I'm looking for other player recommendations. Not needing great upscaling, that should add more player options


I mean, I use PS2s and my 360. Cause they're hooked up anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 1:16 pm 


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Einzelherz wrote:
I mean, I use PS2s and my 360. Cause they're hooked up anyway.

I did consider that but I specifically remember Fudoh saying that a ps2 doesn't deliver a great picture for dvd video/film. In fact I think he even hinted at it being more on the mediocre side (compared to a reference player)


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:03 pm 



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arithmaldor wrote:
SavagePencil wrote:
Can anyone explain what it is that a slower burn is supposed to do? I get that it should be a digital copy, but do slower burns allow the burned areas to be "deeper" or some other way easier for older drives to read?


Less chance for errors to occur in the burning process. If the lasers on the old drives are starting to go, their error correction is not as good anymore, so the more accurate of a burn you get the better.


So what's weird is I've tried TWO brand new external burners now so they should have no problem with burning even at a faster speed. Both externals will ONLY do 10x minimum burn. BOTH failed at burning 3-4 different og Xbox utility/tools discs - the discs wouldn't load. Put in the same exact DVD-R's into the ancient 2009 Mac, where I can burn at 4x, and they burn the discs and they load perfect...

Anybody know of an external USB burner which can do 4x? I checked all the name-brand ones on Amazon and all seem to be 10x only. Didn't want to go with some weird brand I've never heard of... I can stick with the Mac, but it's honestly a pain (it's literally in my unheated/uncooled garage, with no monitor on it so I have to screen share in, and I have to run Windows 10 bootcamp from it to boot...).


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 5:20 pm 


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Dochartaigh wrote:
arithmaldor wrote:
SavagePencil wrote:
Can anyone explain what it is that a slower burn is supposed to do? I get that it should be a digital copy, but do slower burns allow the burned areas to be "deeper" or some other way easier for older drives to read?


Less chance for errors to occur in the burning process. If the lasers on the old drives are starting to go, their error correction is not as good anymore, so the more accurate of a burn you get the better.


So what's weird is I've tried TWO brand new external burners now so they should have no problem with burning even at a faster speed. Both externals will ONLY do 10x minimum burn. BOTH failed at burning 3-4 different og Xbox utility/tools discs - the discs wouldn't load. Put in the same exact DVD-R's into the ancient 2009 Mac, where I can burn at 4x, and they burn the discs and they load perfect...

Anybody know of an external USB burner which can do 4x? I checked all the name-brand ones on Amazon and all seem to be 10x only. Didn't want to go with some weird brand I've never heard of... I can stick with the Mac, but it's honestly a pain (it's literally in my unheated/uncooled garage, with no monitor on it so I have to screen share in, and I have to run Windows 10 bootcamp from it to boot...).


Did you do those 3-4 burns all at 10x? What speed were the discs rated for? Those new external burners may perform much better at 16x.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 8:15 pm 



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bobrocks95 wrote:
Did you do those 3-4 burns all at 10x? What speed were the discs rated for? Those new external burners may perform much better at 16x.


Burned all of them at 10x, just burned the most used tools disc at 16x (discs rated for 16x), and it DID work! ...I'll try that next time, thanks. Still makes no logical sense to me but whatever - as long as I can get it to work that's great.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2018 9:06 pm 


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Dochartaigh wrote:
Burned all of them at 10x, just burned the most used tools disc at 16x (discs rated for 16x), and it DID work! ...I'll try that next time, thanks. Still makes no logical sense to me but whatever - as long as I can get it to work that's great.

The drive uses different internal parameters for each speed it can write at, e.g. laser power, the exact time used to write pits of different length, servo settings for following the pregroove etc. Since most users only want to write at the maximum speed, the most work goes into optimizing the parametrs for that and the lower speeds are not as well-optimized or might even be a set of generic parameters instead of a set that is optimized for the particular disc manufacturer.

The "burn as slow as possible" advice has not been true for more than a decade, there is usually a sweet spot in the middle of the range or slightly below the maximum where the recorded disc has the lowest error rate. I wouldn't even be surprised if there are recorder+disc combinations out there where the maximum speed results in the best-quality disc since the technology is basically mature these days and the pressure of cost optimization could mean that the maximum speed is the only one where the parameters are optimized at all.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:18 pm 


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FinalBaton wrote:
Einzelherz wrote:
I mean, I use PS2s and my 360. Cause they're hooked up anyway.

I did consider that but I specifically remember Fudoh saying that a ps2 doesn't deliver a great picture for dvd video/film. In fact I think he even hinted at it being more on the mediocre side (compared to a reference player)


Could be? I don't think I've watched any on my 850tvl monitors but on my consumer CRT, my Mad About You DVDs all look fine to me.

Technically you can also use an early Wii if it's modded.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:33 pm 


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I actually took several attempts to answer FinalBaton's question for a solid DVD player, but it has actually gotten quite more difficult to source something good. In general: if you like to use stock component output, get an ex-high-end player. Something that was $1000+ back then. Sony ES series, Pioneer top of the line. These all had great component outputs from the beginning, ESPECIALLY if you don't require progressive scan playback. These aren't expensive - it's just not easy to pick one.

If you have the right monitor on hand, you could go SDI instead. There were a great number of solid mid range player that offered perfect SDI quality once modded.

A third option would be a 1st or 2nd gen Blu-Ray player, when these still carried component ouputs.

And a fourth option would be to just grab ANY modern Blu-Ray player - maybe a Sony at $75, set its HDMI output to 480i and use a HDMI to SDI or HDMI to component converter with it. The HDMI 480i output quality is REALLY good on these and if you find a converter that performs OK then that's a cheap and modern way to get your SD DVD fix.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:04 pm 


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Thanks a ton for the answer Fudoh!

Yeah I get what you're saying re:sourcing a particular component for this task. Must not be easy to find

Hey I hadn't thought of using my little Sony blu ray player at 480i over HDMI, and then converting! I might just get a transcoder and try that.

I'll also be on the look out for an ex-high-end player!


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:19 pm 



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Fudoh wrote:
And a fourth option would be to just grab ANY modern Blu-Ray player - maybe a Sony at $75, set its HDMI output to 480i and use a HDMI to SDI or HDMI to component converter with it. The HDMI 480i output quality is REALLY good on these and if you find a converter that performs OK then that's a cheap and modern way to get your SD DVD fix.

Honestly, that's what I'd do.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:08 am 


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Since a lot of DVD material is "natively" 480p with infoflags and whatnot- how do HDMI players perform at 480p? And are there any concerns about combing artifacts for telecined sources (showing my ignorance since I have no clue if a player could detect a telecined source or if any players offer a true reverse telecine)?

EDIT: Maybe displays will just handle 480i much better and can do the 3:2 pulldown themselves? It would mean having to switch between 480i and 480p depending on what you're watching though, I'd imagine.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:27 am 


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Quote:
Since a lot of DVD material is "natively" 480p with infoflags and whatnot- how do HDMI players perform at 480p? And are there any concerns about combing artifacts for telecined sources (showing my ignorance since I have no clue if a player could detect a telecined source or if any players offer a true reverse telecine)?

only a very small number of most no-name chinese players were able to output "native" 480p from a DVD. The problem lies with the DVD specs and the fact that the MPEG2 decoder is only able (and allowed) to output 480i. In other words: yes, movie DVDs starting from around 2002 were actually native 480p24 and simply flagged for 480i60 output, but 480i60 was a neccessary stage during the video decoding. ANY progressive scan or upscaling player would have to work based on this 480i60 signal. That's why it was so difficult to get this right. The best upscaling players were the ones using an internal ABT/DVDO solution.

Movie IVTC got quite good over the years. The cheap Sony BD players have a good progressive DVD output, but it's still based on a reprocessed 480i signal. With a good disc that won't make any difference to true 480p of course. Performance with video material is something disappointing though. Of course 480p output is always locked to 60Hz, so even after performing a perfect IVTC the players would still add back a 3:2 pulldown to achieve a 480p60 output.

Quote:
EDIT: Maybe displays will just handle 480i much better and can do the 3:2 pulldown themselves? It would mean having to switch between 480i and 480p depending on what you're watching though, I'd imagine.

heavily depends on the display. Actually cadence conversion got a lot worse over the past years. Manufacturers are focusing on native signal (1080p24 etc) and even cadence detection and pulldown removal from 1080p60 signals is becoming rare. Sony TVs are pretty good in removing the cadence plus they have good upscaling, so a 480p signal is in good hands. Deinterlacing on flat screen TVs tends to add in blur, so even a properly deinterlaced 480i will usually lack the definition of a 480p signal.

PS: if you want to play back the native 480p signal on DVD, you have to rip the disc (not convert in any way though) and play it back using a media player like the DUNE HD series. This way you won't have to go the 480p -> 480i -> 480p -> 1080p way, but you get 480p -> 1080p directly.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:00 pm 


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so in theory would it be possible for someone to write a homebrew progressive scan DVD player app for original xbox or ps2 that did output native 480p?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:45 pm 



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Fudoh wrote:
Quote:
EDIT: Maybe displays will just handle 480i much better and can do the 3:2 pulldown themselves? It would mean having to switch between 480i and 480p depending on what you're watching though, I'd imagine.

heavily depends on the display. Actually cadence conversion got a lot worse over the past years. Manufacturers are focusing on native signal (1080p24 etc) and even cadence detection and pulldown removal from 1080p60 signals is becoming rare. Sony TVs are pretty good in removing the cadence plus they have good upscaling, so a 480p signal is in good hands. Deinterlacing on flat screen TVs tends to add in blur, so even a properly deinterlaced 480i will usually lack the definition of a 480p signal.

Rtings makes sure to check for judder-free 24p/60i/60p native and reverse telecine support, so check them out on hardware reviews.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2018 2:46 am 



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delete


Last edited by Dochartaigh on Mon Oct 22, 2018 7:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2018 2:50 pm 


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I have a Japanese Sega Saturn connected to a Euro Sony Trinitron TV via scart. Recently the image has begun to "shimmy" horizontally ever so slightly. The scart connection on the TV moves slightly but has always done so. Is my lovely old TV giving up the ghost?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 11:29 pm 



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Is it safe to use a North American N64 power supply on a Japanese console?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 6:48 pm 


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GojiFan90 wrote:
Is it safe to use a North American N64 power supply on a Japanese console?

Perfectly fine.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 7:44 pm 



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Unfortunately my old pal dreamcast broke and I need to get a new one. This time I want to get a japanese dreamcast, as I am very interested in the japanese exclusive games. I am also a owner of the DC X disc so there won't be any problems unsing my pal games on the new machine. Is the NTSC J Dreamcast region free concering the cables? Is it possible to use my euro scart cable on the dreamcast with the framemeister, or is it necessary to get jp 21 cable and the adapter for the framemeister to use RGB ?


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 8:24 pm 



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iceman_0 wrote:
Unfortunately my old pal dreamcast broke and I need to get a new one. This time I want to get a japanese dreamcast, as I am very interested in the japanese exclusive games. I am also a owner of the DC X disc so there won't be any problems unsing my pal games on the new machine. Is the NTSC J Dreamcast region free concering the cables? Is it possible to use my euro scart cable on the dreamcast with the framemeister, or is it necessary to get jp 21 cable and the adapter for the framemeister to use RGB ?

First, what, precisely, broke on your old Dreamcast? If it's simply not reading discs, it's likely just the GD-ROM drive, which, with just a Phillips screwdriver, can be either swapped out with another one or replaced with a GDEMU or USB-GDROM. Sure, you won't be able to use your physical media anymore, but that means less wear and tear on your collection, and these devices will play games from any region.

Secondly, to address your questions, there is no region locking for cables; and, I believe the Dreamcast has a universal pinout, so no chance of 12V on your chroma pin like the PAL N64s.

It is indeed possible to use your SCART cable with the Japanese Dreamcast (stay far away from JP-21) but you will be limited to 240p and 480i--you won't be able to use 480p. If you want to use 480p, you'll need to replace your SCART cable with something like the BeharBros Toro, which can support 480p from its SCART output, then use a male-to-male SCART cable to connect it to your Framemeister.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 8:44 pm 



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Thanks a lot for the reply. Well I am not a technician so I do not know the details but the old dreamcast is basically dead. It is not getting any power anymore. No reaction when I turn it on. The hardrive is not making any sound and the power led is dead too.

Thanks for the info about the 480i/480p issues. I am aware off that. So far I am happy with the upscaled 480i over the Framemeister though. But it is not that I do not want to utilize the max resolution the Dreamcast can offer.

For that purpose I planned to wait for the retro gaming uk dreamcast rgb cable that can output 480p.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 9:29 pm 



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iceman_0 wrote:
Thanks a lot for the reply. Well I am not a technician so I do not know the details but the old dreamcast is basically dead. It is not getting any power anymore. No reaction when I turn it on. The hardrive is not making any sound and the power led is dead too.


Dreamcast power supplies are modular (they also come out with nothing but a Phillips screwdriver) and can be had relatively cheap--$15-$30 USD for a 110V board on eBay. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to quickly find any 230/240V boards. You can also replace the PSU with a more power-efficient aftermarket model, like the DreamPSU (when that finally ships) or a PicoPSU.

Of course, if you simply don't want to deal with any of that, just getting a Japanese console like you were going to is still a good option. :P


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 1:50 pm 


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I've read a few reviews now but can't seem to find the answer to the following question: will the OSSC reduce lag?

I can see reference to there being no or little lag but what is not clear is whether the effect of the OSSC is to reduce the lag experienced when connecting an old console directly to a HD TV without the OSSC. For example all shmups on the PS2 are completely unplayable when connecting it directly to my HD TV via component cables (even in Game Mode). If I do so through the OSSC will that lag be reduced?

Thanks in advance.


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 Post subject: Re: Questions that do not deserve a thread
PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 2:38 pm 


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OSSC will reduce the lag in so far as to send a progressive image (at default 480p) to the display with absolutely minimal lag (microsecond timescale).
The reason this cuts down display lag is that displays often have excessive processing time with interlaced images, i.e. 480i (or 240p incorrectly processed as 480i, which is super common).

This does NOT mean that it guarantees low lag, because even in game mode and reducing picture processing as much as possible, some displays just have very high lag. I remember Try from MLiG stating that his old Samsung had 5 frames of innate lag...
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