TV RGB mod thread

[Zektor]

I have a Sony KV-35S42, and I’m hoping someone can look over this information and see if I’m understanding it correctly and answer a few questions. Note: I would like to use the menu when in RGB, so hopefully this is the Mux method.

I asked a fellow forum member with the same TV for some help, and he was able to provide a drawing on how to preform this mod.





Here is some Service manual info I found on the TV:








So based on this information, is this what I should do?

RGB Lines:
- Remove R1123, R1128, and R133 (390 Ω – resistors going to ground)
- Replace R1355, R1356, and R1357 (100 Ω) with jumpers (0 Ω)
- Replace C363, C364, and C365 (0.01uf) with 0.1 uf capacitors
- From the SCART connector (Pins 7, 11, 15): Connect each pin with a 75 Ω resistor to ground, and a 910 Ω resistor to OSD.

Question: Where should I connect to the OSD from the 910 Ω resistor? Should I connect to the area where I put jumpers on R1135, R1356, and R1357?

Blanking Line: (This is where I get confused)
- Replace R067 (470 Ω) with a 180 Ω resistor.
- Replace R1354 (220 Ω) with a jumper (0 Ω)
- Connect Jungle pin 6 (SVCC) with pin 15 (YS)

This is were I get confused. Isn’t pin 6 on the Jungle 9V? From the data sheets it looks like pin 15 is looking for 1.0-3.0V for blanking. Or am I reading that wrong?
Should I look at doing Blanking a different way? If so, how would I go about that?
I believe I've seen people take 5V standby power, and run it directly into the blanking pin (pin 15) with a switch. Is the method above better?

Sync Line:
- SCART pin 20 to S-Video Luma

Audio Lines:
- SCART pins 2 and 6 to L/R RCA on TV.

Question: Do I need to put a 1K Ω resistor in-line?

Do I need to add any on/off switches anywhere?
Thanks for any help I can get.

[MarkOZLAD]

Not necessary to replace R1355, R1356, R1357 with a jumper. Just leave them in place.

Shouldn't need to replace C363, C364 and C365 capacitors. Can leave this to later anyway if you experience issues.

For blanking I'd just use 5V through a switch then into a 470 ohm resistor and connect to jumper JR1801. Otherwise leave blanking circuit intact.

Yes R1123, R1128 and R133 need to be removed but you should use 330R, not 910R. Connect to JR1802, JR1803 and JR1804.



> - SCART pins 2 and 6 to L/R RCA on TV.

> Question: Do I need to put a 1K Ω resistor in-line?

No.

[SNK-NEO-GEO]

Hello guys.. complete newbie to mod.. Syntax helped me with the newbie questions over PM...

I am looking to RGB MOD my Pelco monitors.. Bellow are pictures of one of the units chassis and the one that i will be using for testing (the screen has a scratch, F-up during shipping on this one).. I would like to use SCART on the monitors.. Please take a look at the pictures and let me know what is the best to go about it...If rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else..


Pelco PMC21A TDA8842 S1
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... IzzBQ1kdBq

"All you need is 75R resistors and 100n caps and your done.

3 wires RGBS with resistors to ground and caps inline
1 wire blanking with resistor to ground
1 wire sync
2 wires audio
1 wire ground. "

[Zektor]

Not necessary to replace R1355, R1356, R1357 with a jumper. Just leave them in place.

Shouldn't need to replace C363, C364 and C365 capacitors. Can leave this to later anyway if you experience issues.

For blanking I'd just use 5V through a switch then into a 470 ohm resistor and connect to jumper JR1801. Otherwise leave blanking circuit intact.

Yes R1123, R1128 and R133 need to be removed but you should use 330R, not 910R. Connect to JR1802, JR1803 and JR1804.



> - SCART pins 2 and 6 to L/R RCA on TV.

> Question: Do I need to put a 1K Ω resistor in-line?

No.

Thank you for your help!!! I was able to get the TV working with RGB and the menu. I have my SNES and MiSTer working on this set.

I do have one issue, and that deals with the blackness of the monitor. When the TV is powered on, and the Blanking switch is off (not sending the blanking signal), I have a nice deep black image. When I flip the Blanking switch on to allow for RGB, the TV gets brighter, and I don’t have the same deep blacks as before. Is there anything I can due to get the deep blacks along with RGB?

Also, I have an issue not related to the mod. I’m getting convergence issues on both the left and right side of the monitor. The center of the screen is fine. Could this be due to bad capacitors? Or would the purity disk magnets on the neck solve this issue? (or does that adjust the entire screen?)

Thanks again for the help. I’m so happy to get this working!

[MarkOZLAD]

Try turning down the sub brightness in the service menu.

[Bratwurst]

I do have one issue, and that deals with the blackness of the monitor. When the TV is powered on, and the Blanking switch is off (not sending the blanking signal), I have a nice deep black image. When I flip the Blanking switch on to allow for RGB, the TV gets brighter, and I don’t have the same deep blacks as before. Is there anything I can due to get the deep blacks along with RGB?

Check the service manual for the set to see if there are separate RGB or OSD brightness/contrast settings.

[llsique]

Does anyone know if it is possible to do RGB mod on a Sony KV-29FA310? I believe the chip is the 65586MK-050FP-TR.

Thanks!

[MarkOZLAD]

Does anyone know if it is possible to do RGB mod on a Sony KV-29FA310? I believe the chip is the 65586MK-050FP-TR.

Thanks!

This TV is a BA-6 chassis. It cannot be modified for an external RGB input by the Jungle injection methods we (mostly) employ here.

The Jungle chip in this TV does not have RGB inputs. It is a combined Micro-controller and Jungle chip so there is no way to hijack the On Screen Display circuitry as it is all contained within the chip.

[thedudeabides]

Hello fellow Muxers with way more knowledge than I. For some reason I am having a complete brain fart and can not wrap my head around the mux method. The snip/6pdt switch method I can do with ease, but who wants to do that these days? I attempting the mux mod on a Sony KV-27v66. I am going to stea from Zektor's prior post and post my questions in a similar manner. Thanks for the help.

Here is some Service manual info I found on the TV:



So based on this information, is this what I should do?

RGB Lines:
- Remove R086, R087, and R088 (680 Ω – resistors going to ground)
- From the SCART connector (Pins 7, 11, 15): Connect each pin with a 75 Ω resistor to ground, and a 840 Ω resistor to OSD. (This is where i get tripped up. I calculate 840 ohm from the mux calculator, but admittedly I don't exactly know how to use it.)

For blanking should I just use 5V through a switch then into a 1k ohm resistor and connect to jumper R316?

Once again thanks. My trying to understand this has just not been happening not from a lack of trying.

[Spud]

Hello all,
I read about a few successfully completed 27FS100 mods, and i found a nice 24FS100. Can someone point me too directions to proceed? I''m not seeing what I expect to see in the wiring diagrams, as far as RGB in. Is it possible that this TV from the same model line has a completely different IC setup? Here's the diagram from the service model. I see RGB going from an all-in-one IC chip to an RGB driver, then the tube.
https://i.imgur.com/PpQffuM.gif

[Mitsubishi40]

Hello, I was hoping you guys could give me some advice about a possible Rgb mux mod to my recently acquired Mitsubishi CS-40503. I got it for free on CL from an old man, and it was listed (and looks just like) as an AM4201R. Here is a link to the service manual:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1kOwWw ... YLu5145qxH

Can this set be rgb modded? Where do I start etc. Should I do the mod a couple of times on a more disposable set first? My friend is an electrical engineer and will most likely be helping (performing) the mod.

[zjAEA5qA6h]

I want to add composite input to an RF only TV.

I have a Magnavox PR1397 manufactured in 1997. A quick look at the board shows a TDA 8369. The very limited datasheet I found for the chip shows the following:



I can see that there is "External CVBS in" and "A/V switch input" available. The question is:

If I install an RCA input and wire it to pin 12, would it need to have a resistor in-line the same way RGB mod inputs usually do? Additionally, what would be a safe (to the unit) way of investigating something like this? As for the switch, I'm somewhat assuming/guessing that if I applied 5 volts to pin 28, it would likely switch between tuner and composite input.

Thanks for any info that can be provided.

[TheRetromancer]

So, I just picked up a KV-36HS510 for $20. Holy crap, what a monster.

I'm looking at the schematics right now, and the jungle IC (IC2801 in the schematic) does in fact have RIN, BIN, and GIN on pins 38, 37, and 36 respectively. So looks like I'll be able to hijack the OSD.

However, there's approximately 9 billion responses to this thread, and I was hoping someone could help direct me to the current 'correct' method of adding RGB input. I've skimmed the thread a bit and found some conflicting information, and this TV is heavy enough that I'd rather not have to drag it down to the dump after blowing it up.

Any help is appreciated.

[Pikkon]

Unfortunately you have a hd crt,it treats 240p as 480i and the picture is pretty bad,I would try and find a sd crt for modding for rgb.

[theangryamoeba]

I recently trash picked a Sanyo DS24425. It's a got nice bright tube and all of the inputs that i thought I would need. Composite, S-video and Component. Then I read about RGB.

I was able to find the service manual for the set, but i'm not seeing any RGB lines that I can tap. Can someone else take a look at this and let me know if I'm missing something obvious?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10zmhRo ... sp=sharing

[TheRetromancer]

I recently trash picked a Sanyo DS24425. It's a got nice bright tube and all of the inputs that i thought I would need. Composite, S-video and Component. Then I read about RGB.

I was able to find the service manual for the set, but i'm not seeing any RGB lines that I can tap. Can someone else take a look at this and let me know if I'm missing something obvious?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10zmhRo ... sp=sharing

According to the Schematics you provide, your RGB lines are pins 12, 13, and 14 on the IC801 chip. You have to zoom in on the very last page (pg 32).

On further inspection, it doesn't look like IC801 has RGB IN, but it does have RGB OUT that is pulled from the 'Video Matrix', which looks like it takes YPbPr and (encodes?) it to RGB before directly shooting it to a trio of transistors (Q721, Q711, and Q701) immediately before the actual screen itself. You might be able to interpose a properly adjusted RGB signal either before or after those transistors.

[MarkOZLAD]

It’s a no go for RGB mod.

[Kabal2X]

Nice! Another Pelco monitor owner. I own the same exact model, S-video looks amazing, I assume RGB has to be fantastic. Had any luck trying the RGB mod on your set?
Thanks

Hello guys.. complete newbie to mod.. Syntax helped me with the newbie questions over PM...

I am looking to RGB MOD my Pelco monitors.. Bellow are pictures of one of the units chassis and the one that i will be using for testing (the screen has a scratch, F-up during shipping on this one).. I would like to use SCART on the monitors.. Please take a look at the pictures and let me know what is the best to go about it...If rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else..


Pelco PMC21A TDA8842 S1
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... IzzBQ1kdBq

"All you need is 75R resistors and 100n caps and your done.

3 wires RGBS with resistors to ground and caps inline
1 wire blanking with resistor to ground
1 wire sync
2 wires audio
1 wire ground. "

[TheRetromancer]

EDIT2: I'm picking up a free KV-27V42 tomorrow. Does anyone know if the RGB1 input can be used? I know RGB2 is used for the service menu, but I'm not finding anything on enabling RGB1.

[suprcrackers]

RGB1 is a no go.

[Vermifuge]

RGB Mod RCA F25645 / CTC-203AX Chassis (Help Please)

I'm trying to sort out how to RGB mod this RCA F25645 CRT. It uses a CTC203XA Chassis. I noticed one other forum member boded a CTC-203 but not many notes on the subject. The problem I'm running into is this chassis is using a GemStar card and how it interfaces with the Jungle iC.

Here are some of my notes so far. It's not a lot. I'm sort of new to reading these circuit diagrams so please excuse any mistakes interpreting this.

https://imgur.com/a/6RovAik

My questions so far:

• 1. Should I be tapping into the RGB before or after the gem star card? I assume after
  2. Is the FSW (Fast Switch) the same as banking? Where should I hijack the blanking signal?
  3. I think i see +5v coming off of a transistor? Q14115.
  4. For sync am i literally just plugins my sync cable into the composite input?

For interrupting the RGB I think I am looking at the 3 470 ohm resistors i marked in the diagram. There are also 3 .022 microfarad capacitors that i plaice are part of the same circuit. However 1. there are located on the back of the board and 2. They are SMD packages,

If someone could help me put a plan together for this mod it would be very appreciated.

Some of the images in the imgur link are taken from the GE 27GT720TX1 service manual. It uses the same CTC-203AX Chassis ge_27gt720tx1_ch_ctc203ax.pdf
Im also using the RCA CTC-203 Chassis Training manual to break down the different circuits. also pictured in the image link rca_chassis_ctc203_training_manual.pdf

I'm sure you guys are sick of answering the same question over and over. Please know i really have done my best to review and compile the available information. I have reached the limit of my ability to precede forward. so any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for any input.

[Hishimura]

Noob here have a Sharp 13N-M150B
link to service manual https://elektrotanya.com/sharp_13n-m100 ... nload.html
I know I am a noob but reading the schematic I do see RGB lines going from microcontroller to jungle chip and pulling apart the T.V and reading the schematic can confirm they are two separate chips, any help on determining resistor values or caps needed? Intention is RGB component for a N64

[accskyman]

Scratch this post, I2C chip and this tv is a most likely a bust. Back to searching for something.

[vol.2]

Looking into this set for an RGB mod and wondering if someone could please check it out?
It looks to me that the RGB inputs on the jungle IC are only hooked up to Red and Green. Blue seems to be NC out of the Character IC and the blue input is tied to ground through a 1uF capacitor. (pin 19, C903)

Toshiba CX1467

here's the on screen interface chip




Here where the signal comes out of the character generator for the on screen menu.



This is the Character Gen pin output, showing the RGB outs on pins 12, 13, 14:


Here is the pinout descriptions of the char gen chip:

Spoiler

This is from the datasheet of the on screen interface, block diagram and example circuit:

Spoiler

[MiteWiseacre]

Hello, new guy here. Read most of this thread and watched a bunch of videos and now attempting a mod.

Diamond Vision DTV2822, made in China I think it’s a Mitsubishi, I think it’s the same as many cheap house-brand TVs from mid 2000’s (cannot remember when I bought it but think 2008)
These are the data sheets I found that match most closely:

M37150M8-111FB (the osd chip)
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... XXXFP.html
M61266 (Jungle Chip) and the closest I’ve found:
https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/ ... 283FP.html

I’m outputting from my Mame machine which is running crt-emudriver and groovymame 15htz on VGA
The blue signal, for example, runs from pin#36 to 110ohm R to 0.1uF cap to pin #21
I’ve injected rgb between the resistor and the cap, disconnected the resistor to break the line.
Attached the H&V sync to a pot then to composite in, if I dial it down I get a nice stable picture.
5v to blanking, I can take this down to around 2.5v with a pot before it cuts out, makes no difference to the picture.
I’ve tried 75ohm to ground on rgb but that kills picture entirely, tried 1uf caps in-line no noticeable affect. It seems the signal is only like 0.25v coming from my vga Too low?

Problem I’m having is that I seem to only get red blue green and yellow, lots of black, it’s as if the colours aren’t mixing. Any suggestions? Am I inserting in the right spot?

[Syntax]

Last pic. 21 18 15 11 are your injection points.

[vol.2]

Last pic. 21 18 15 11 are your injection points.

Thanks. Is there anything I need to consider that it says "B-Y, R-Y, G-Y?" That would make me think I somehow have to subtract luma from the RGB lines?


Edit: I thought that I was supposed to use the OSD inputs, and that they would correspond to R^TX, B^TX, G^TX, (or 21,18,15 + pin 12 for the blanking).

Perhaps I'm a little behind the times with this and it's better to use the TV RGB inputs to the jungle IC? If that's the case, I still am not completely sure about the "-Y" for the inputs on the TV out. I suppose I could figure out a circuit that does that, but if the TX inputs will work, maybe that's the way to go with this one?

I just saw your reply. Yeah, your probably right. I'll solder ahead.

[Syntax]

Youre overthinking things now.

Just wire up the set and worry when you actually run into an issue.

Currently modding this little 12v portable color TV.

[Cursed Lemon]

Hi everyone! New face and mod newbie here. I saw 8-Bit Guy's videos on the RGB mods he made and got inspired, so I followed the link. I would love to get some guidance/advice on how to perform this mod, I have an inkling to turn an old CRT into my own RetroPie-driven arcade cabinet and the extra clarity from an RGB signal would be awfully nice. I just need some pointers! I'm a very handy guy but direct tinkering with a PCB is something I'm mostly green to.

What I'm working with presently is a Magnavox 20MT133S: https://www.p4c.philips.com/files/2/20m ... fu_aen.pdf

Unfortunately, a direct schematic for the television doesn't seem to be available online. However, there does seem to be a generic service manual I found that appears to reference the exact same board: https://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm ... MT133.html

The microcontroller is a Mitsubishi M37272M6H: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 72M6H.html

The video chip is a Mitsubishi M61203CFP: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 03CFP.html

Bottom of the board: https://i.imgur.com/6oLrSrr.jpg

Top of the board: https://i.imgur.com/NsM3XVc.jpg

Any other info, just ask. Is this CRT eligible, or do I have to hack apart one of my flatscreen CRTs? :B

[Vermifuge]

Youre overthinking things now.

Just wire up the set and worry when you actually run into an issue.

Currently modding this little 12v portable color TV.

The system I am working on is in a very cramped space. Accessing the main board and fooling around isn't exactly plug & play. I would prefer to get it right the first time.