Hey folks lurker here for the most part up until now. My son is getting into retro gaming (the old fashion way, he doesn't care for emulation) and has a goal of having a 20-24" Sony Trinitron RGB/SCART modded. Well I found this candidate (Sony Trinitron KV-24FV12) on the marketplace and hope it is serviceable enough to move forward. I'm attaching a video in hopes you all can get me started in the right direction. This being said, I have discovered one thing since recording the video. On the yoke neck there are actually 8 adjustable magnet rings (not 6 like I thought in the video) and in order from the front moving back are: (2-purity, 2-V-STAT?, 2-HSTAT?, 2-BMC?) I'm actually a little confused by the service manual which I got from electrotanya.com as I feel it is leaving out needed detail. Many videos I watch on YT do talk about these for convergence but I've yet to see many people refer to the service manual as to the direction of movement as it relates to RGB which I do like as far as that detail goes. I'm just getting confused on what RV701 POT on the neck does VS what the 2nd, 3rd, and 4rd pair of magnet rings do on the neck? My goal at this point in order of priority is to correct ALL convergence as best I can first, then correct geometry a little more. For convergence I'm pretty sure my center/static can be fixed via neck sliding magnets/RV701 POT, dynamic convergence is a bit confusing by moving the whole yoke as it states in the SM, and then corner convergence will need some permalloy strips. As far as geometry, I'm not really sure where to go from here?
Video of this set running 240P Test Suite
https://youtu.be/urjxq6dHGLo[/youtube]
Thank you,
Motleypixel
Is this Sony KV-24FV12 decent enough to move forward...
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motleypixel
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2023 12:04 am
Re: Is this Sony KV-24FV12 decent enough to move forward...
Should be a fun little set to mod. Personally, I'd have gone for a 27"er with component ins and avoided the hassle of modding, but as a project you can do together with your son to RGB mod, you could have hardly picked a better set.
The BMC magnet can be a U shaped magnet that can be inserted, retracted, and rotated or two hexapole ring magnets the manual specific to your model says to do.
Once you get beam landing (purity) and convergence dialed in, the next step is to use SM adjustments for geometry and, once youve exhausted what you can do in the SM, move to strategically placed magnets on the back of the tube. I like to use 1cmx2mm round neodymiums. They can be placed either flat against the tube or you can set them perpendicular in some putty or play-dough and then you have the option to rotate them. You can stack them for more power if needed and /or move them further/closer to the neck. It truely is a time-suck to try to dial these in, and you will NEVER get them perfect-- a good rule of thumb is if you can achieve what you perceive to 90%-95% good, stop right there and be satisfied, because you will never achieve that last 5% till the day you die.
Big tip from someone whose wasted a lot of time doing this-- when doing geometry tweaks, use the grid scrolling function on 240p suite to adjust vertical and horizontal linearity and s-correction. You want the small boxes to be the same size moving from the bottom to the top and from side to side. This is how you minimize the "fish eye" effect that some use to describe scrolling images on some of these flat tubes.
Finally, grayscale. Super-important in getting good, true color. Grays should be "smoke" gray, and not blueish, pinkish, yellowish, or greenish. Dial these in (RGB drive/cut) on a black to white bar screen to achieve that smoke/ash gray. Will make a huge difference in PQ.
The BMC magnet can be a U shaped magnet that can be inserted, retracted, and rotated or two hexapole ring magnets the manual specific to your model says to do.
Once you get beam landing (purity) and convergence dialed in, the next step is to use SM adjustments for geometry and, once youve exhausted what you can do in the SM, move to strategically placed magnets on the back of the tube. I like to use 1cmx2mm round neodymiums. They can be placed either flat against the tube or you can set them perpendicular in some putty or play-dough and then you have the option to rotate them. You can stack them for more power if needed and /or move them further/closer to the neck. It truely is a time-suck to try to dial these in, and you will NEVER get them perfect-- a good rule of thumb is if you can achieve what you perceive to 90%-95% good, stop right there and be satisfied, because you will never achieve that last 5% till the day you die.
Big tip from someone whose wasted a lot of time doing this-- when doing geometry tweaks, use the grid scrolling function on 240p suite to adjust vertical and horizontal linearity and s-correction. You want the small boxes to be the same size moving from the bottom to the top and from side to side. This is how you minimize the "fish eye" effect that some use to describe scrolling images on some of these flat tubes.
Finally, grayscale. Super-important in getting good, true color. Grays should be "smoke" gray, and not blueish, pinkish, yellowish, or greenish. Dial these in (RGB drive/cut) on a black to white bar screen to achieve that smoke/ash gray. Will make a huge difference in PQ.