RetroTink 4K All But Officially Announced ....

[fernan1234]

^Exactly. And it's funny that aliasing is brought up since a proper interlaced look, whether on an actual CRT or via CRT simulation, actually helps to reduce the aliasing / jagginess of the graphics of the time. Sounds like someone who thinks bob-deinterlace is what interlaced video looks like on CRTs. And combing will be a thing on other modes too, at most with some deinterlacing modes you may just be swapping sharper looking combing for blurrier lines.

[Kez]

Another option for the profiles, if you have an idea what profiles you plan to make - you can just duplicate a bunch of default profiles and rename/sort them, then go in and save over them when you're ready to configure.

[TooBeaucoup]

Another option for the profiles, if you have an idea what profiles you plan to make - you can just duplicate a bunch of default profiles and rename/sort them, then go in and save over them when you're ready to configure.

Dude, great idea. That hadn't even occurred to me!

[copy]

What are people's thoughts on getting the best quality using a MiSTer and RT4K? After seeing this section of MLIG's video, I thought the best approach might be to configure each MiSTer core to output square/integer pixels, and then have the RT4K do the proper aspect ratio correction.

I started configuring my MiSTer .ini core settings to this end, but I realized a potential downside is that the MiSTer OSD will be distorted or even extended off the screen. Also, cores with multiple resolutions (e.g. Genesis) would be a major pain with this approach.

Maybe the best solution will ultimately be to pipe the MiSTer's direct video output into the RT4K, and have the 4K automatically adjust to the video metadata? I understand that's being worked on.

[fernan1234]

Maybe the best solution will ultimately be to pipe the MiSTer's direct video output into the RT4K, and have the 4K automatically adjust to the video metadata? I understand that's being worked on.

It's pretty much ready to go now.

https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_Mi ... 1869820800

Just give it a bit, no need to mess around with custom configs that will be unnecessary probably in a matter of weeks.

[kamiboy]

Is it normal for the ps3 to look super blocky on RT4K when connected via HDMI?

I am guessing it has something to do with HDCP, but I have not been able to find much information on it. Am I right in assuming that the only way to solve this is by introducing an HDCP stripper between the PS3 and RT4K?

If so, then what a disappointment. I won’t be doing that as unlike many here I am not keen on the eternal introduction of yet another device in the chain of my setups. I have very limited space and hate messy setups with too many links.

I do suppose the introduction of an HDMI switch is inevitable if I am going to hook up all Analogue devices in addition to the PS3 to the one HDMI input port of the RT4K. So if there was a HDMI switcher that could handle the Analogue devices and do HDCP stripping I guess that would be acceptable. But HDMI switchers are a chaotic jungle that I have very little overview of.

[ZellSF]

Yes you need a HDCP stripper for PS3 and PS TV. In addition to looking super blocky, I think it should actually give you a message that HDCP is enabled.

From what I understand there's both cost and technical concerns that makes HDCP output not feasible.

[copy]

It's pretty much ready to go now.

https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_Mi ... 1869820800

Just give it a bit, no need to mess around with custom configs that will be unnecessary probably in a matter of weeks.

Excellent, will wait for that.

BTW, I am another victim of the bad SD cards. After putting mine in my PC to update the profiles, and then back into the RT4K, the 4K would no longer turn on correctly. Returning it to my PC, the data was all corrupted with gibberish drive and file names. Luckily I had backed up all the files, restored them to a good spare SD card, and now my 4K is functioning normally again.

Shame I will have to throw out the original SD card with the custom RetroTINK label. Oh well.

[bobrocks95]

Shame I will have to throw out the original SD card with the custom RetroTINK label. Oh well.

You can peel the sticker off fairly easily and slap it over another. I am kind of hoping Mike's able to offer replacements in the future after getting screwed by the supplier, but it's not a huge deal.

[fernan1234]

Got to use the tink4K today. Simply put, it's a god device.

Only wrinkle I see so far is you can't let your SD card be touched by MacOS or it will ruin everything

[Konsolkongen]

Got to use the tink4K today. Simply put, it's a god device.

Only wrinkle I see so far is you can't let your SD card be touched by MacOS or it will ruin everything

In that it will display all the junk macOS puts on the card, or will it not work at all?

That sucks regardless But hopefully is easily fixable:)

[TooBeaucoup]

Shame I will have to throw out the original SD card with the custom RetroTINK label. Oh well.

You can peel the sticker off fairly easily and slap it over another. I am kind of hoping Mike's able to offer replacements in the future after getting screwed by the supplier, but it's not a huge deal.

This is what I did. Grabbed an X-acto knife and removed labels from both my SD cards and moved the Tink label to my 32GB Sandisk. It looks mint. Not that it matters at all since you can't see the card once it's in the Tink, but it's nice to have the label just so I always remember which card is for the Tink.

[EnragedWhale]

If so, then what a disappointment. I won’t be doing that as unlike many here I am not keen on the eternal introduction of yet another device in the chain of my setups. I have very limited space and hate messy setups with too many links.

I have a cheap EZCOO HDMI 2.0 splitter behind my PS3. Nothing plugged into the 2nd output and powered by the PS3 itself via USB. Left it on its defaults and it solved the issue perfectly. Wouldn’t even know it was there as i tucked it behind the bookshelf the console sits on.

[SquidHominid]

Yes you need a HDCP stripper for PS3 and PS TV. In addition to looking super blocky, I think it should actually give you a message that HDCP is enabled.

From what I understand there's both cost and technical concerns that makes HDCP output not feasible.

The concerns are legal, not technical/cost. If the device output the unmolested signal, it would either have to maintain HDCP to your display (meaning no capture cards), or strip HDCP (meaning Mike gets slammed into the pavement by HDMI lawyers).

Got to use the tink4K today. Simply put, it's a god device.

Only wrinkle I see so far is you can't let your SD card be touched by MacOS or it will ruin everything

In that it will display all the junk macOS puts on the card, or will it not work at all?

That sucks regardless But hopefully is easily fixable:)

FIrmware 1.0 RC26 (launch firmware) and 1.0.1 display all the junk files. 1.0.2 TRIED to fix it but instead it causes the file browser to shit itself if the card was used with a Mac. An actual fix is pending.

[kitty666cats]

Is it normal for the ps3 to look super blocky on RT4K when connected via HDMI?

I am guessing it has something to do with HDCP, but I have not been able to find much information on it. Am I right in assuming that the only way to solve this is by introducing an HDCP stripper between the PS3 and RT4K?

If so, then what a disappointment. I won’t be doing that as unlike many here I am not keen on the eternal introduction of yet another device in the chain of my setups. I have very limited space and hate messy setups with too many links.

I do suppose the introduction of an HDMI switch is inevitable if I am going to hook up all Analogue devices in addition to the PS3 to the one HDMI input port of the RT4K. So if there was a HDMI switcher that could handle the Analogue devices and do HDCP stripping I guess that would be acceptable. But HDMI switchers are a chaotic jungle that I have very little overview of.

There’s a HDMI splitter that’s proven to strip HDCP which is just about the size of a bar of soap. You could probably even connect it to the output of your PS3 with a mere HDMI coupler. It’s really not much of an eyesore/the splitter is $20. Absolutely worth it if you intend to use PS3 often, IMO

https://a.co/d/4iePUF6

[StarCreator]

There’s a HDMI splitter that’s proven to strip HDCP which is just about the size of a bar of soap. You could probably even connect it to the output of your PS3 with a mere HDMI coupler. It’s really not much of an eyesore/the splitter is $20. Absolutely worth it if you intend to use PS3 often, IMO

https://a.co/d/4iePUF6

I have five or so ViewHD splitters and the newest couple (ordered in 2017) don't strip HDCP. Might try to pick this one up to test too since recent reviews seem to be promising, but I'd still be cautious.

[SquidHominid]

There’s a HDMI splitter that’s proven to strip HDCP which is just about the size of a bar of soap. You could probably even connect it to the output of your PS3 with a mere HDMI coupler. It’s really not much of an eyesore/the splitter is $20. Absolutely worth it if you intend to use PS3 often, IMO

https://a.co/d/4iePUF6

I have five or so ViewHD splitters and the newest couple (ordered in 2017) don't strip HDCP. Might try to pick this one up to test too since recent reviews seem to be promising, but I'd still be cautious.

A certain YouTube channel about living in video games or something ( yes I'm being indirect on purpose ) did a hour-long RT4K video where they briefly touch on what you want to look into here.

[kitty666cats]

There’s a HDMI splitter that’s proven to strip HDCP which is just about the size of a bar of soap. You could probably even connect it to the output of your PS3 with a mere HDMI coupler. It’s really not much of an eyesore/the splitter is $20. Absolutely worth it if you intend to use PS3 often, IMO

https://a.co/d/4iePUF6

I have five or so ViewHD splitters and the newest couple (ordered in 2017) don't strip HDCP. Might try to pick this one up to test too since recent reviews seem to be promising, but I'd still be cautious.

A certain YouTube channel about living in video games or something ( yes I'm being indirect on purpose ) did a hour-long RT4K video where they briefly touch on what you want to look into here.

Ooh I wonder what channel it could be?! Do you have a time stamp or w/e of where it’s mentioned in the video?

[strygo]

Ooh I wonder what channel it could be?! Do you have a time stamp or w/e of where it’s mentioned in the video?

https://youtu.be/HBMfRaF22_I?t=1921

https://youtu.be/SMkimgEwWXs?t=3199

I went with the option in the first video - about $15 currently on Amazon. It seems like they prefer the second option to actually use both outputs - in my case, I'm only stripping HDCP, so I went with the cheaper option.

[ZellSF]

Yes you need a HDCP stripper for PS3 and PS TV. In addition to looking super blocky, I think it should actually give you a message that HDCP is enabled.

From what I understand there's both cost and technical concerns that makes HDCP output not feasible.

The concerns are legal, not technical/cost. If the device output the unmolested signal, it would either have to maintain HDCP to your display (meaning no capture cards), or strip HDCP (meaning Mike gets slammed into the pavement by HDMI lawyers).

I said those concerns makes HDCP output not feasible, meaning I was not talking about stripping HDCP, but the first option. Where the concerns are technical/cost. Sure if you don't pay the cost, or make the appropriate technical modifications for the license then you have a legal issue.

I don't think capture card compatibility was a huge concern, most people with a capture card likely are already familiar with HDCP strippers.

[copy]

Under the Output Resolution settings, is there any difference between the main "4K60" setting versus "3840x2160p60.00" in the first custom modeline slot?

[Guspaz]

The main 4K60 entry uses the CEA-861 timings, while the default custom modeline 1 uses CVT-RBv2 timings, but that doesn't have much impact other than having a slightly lower pixel/bandwidth clock and maybe letting you push refresh rates a bit higher at full resolution. The included custom modelines are just for demonstration purposes. Replace them as you like. You can use this calculator to help: https://guspaz.github.io/video_timings_calculator

[copy]

The main 4K60 entry uses the CEA-861 timings, while the default custom modeline 1 uses CVT-RBv2 timings, but that doesn't have much impact other than having a slightly lower pixel/bandwidth clock and maybe letting you push refresh rates a bit higher at full resolution. The included custom modelines are just for demonstration purposes. Replace them as you like. You can use this calculator to help: https://guspaz.github.io/video_timings_calculator

Very helpful, thank you.

[Konsolkongen]

How do a PS5 configured for 2160p120, VRR and Dolby Atmos react when connected to a RT4K? I would expect that it would automatically drop resolution to 1080p60, and audio to stereo/7.1 PCM? Is VRR supported on the HDMI input of the RT4K?

And what happens if that same PS5 is connected back to the TV, I don't assume it will revert back to 2160p, VRR and Atmos, right?

I could live with menu fiddling each time I swapped, but the less the better.

And what would be the best and safest way to easily switch between TV and RT4K without swapping cables?

[EnragedWhale]

Just tried this for you.

The PS5 actually copes fairly gracefully. It sets itself to 1080p 60hz when run through the tink. Had to turn of HDCP first of course. VRR is disabled but Dolby Atmos still works. Switching back and forth it just sets itself back to 4K60, automatically re enables VRR and 120hz with no fuss. Occasionally asking me to reset the screen size, but you can just button straight through if you are using no overscan.

Surely the easiest way though is to just connect the tink and PS5 to different HDMI ports on the TV?

I’m using a Denon 2800 AVR and have the tink connected to the 2nd output. When powered down it’s completely invisible and doesn’t interfere with HDMI 2.1 passthrough so it’s works perfectly so far

[Konsolkongen]

Just tried this for you.

The PS5 actually copes fairly gracefully. It sets itself to 1080p 60hz when run through the tink. Had to turn of HDCP first of course. VRR is disabled but Dolby Atmos still works. Switching back and forth it just sets itself back to 4K60, automatically re enables VRR and 120hz with no fuss. Occasionally asking me to reset the screen size, but you can just button straight through if you are using no overscan.

Surely the easiest way though is to just connect the tink and PS5 to different HDMI ports on the TV?

I’m using a Denon 2800 AVR and have the tink connected to the 2nd output. When powered down it’s completely invisible and doesn’t interfere with HDMI 2.1 passthrough so it’s works perfectly so far

Thank you for testing that. Seems like much less hassle that I expected. Good to hear that Atmos is supported too

I would hook both up to the TV. But I would still have to disconnect the PS5 and hook that up the the RT4K every time, and I would like to avoid cable swapping.

My AVR is a Yamaha RX-A2080 which is only HDMI 2.0 so I run audio to that via eARC on the TV, otherwise I could probably use the outputs on that to achieve similar switching as you.

[Guspaz]

Atmos is supported via Dolby Digital Plus. It is not supported via Dolby TrueHD or MAT.

[bobrocks95]

Is the Dreamcast just always going to be impossible to get the phase correct on? With the Tink 4K I still get either ringing/ghosting (grid test on 240p test suite has white vertical lines kind of split horizontally like this) or you get that sharp and it's a flickering mess on the checkerboard pattern and any grayish colors.

Got most consoles looking razor sharp except that and the PC Engine Duo-R but that may be an LPF enabled on the RGB board from what someone said (don't have my multimeter on hand at the moment)

[Konsolkongen]

Atmos is supported via Dolby Digital Plus. It is not supported via Dolby TrueHD or MAT.

The PS5 can output Atmos in PCM. Will this be reduced to DD+ when run through the Tink then?

[Josh128]

or you get that sharp and it's a flickering mess on the checkerboard pattern and any grayish colors.

What do you mean? You get it sharp but its too sharp?