panzeroceania wrote:I recently bought an XRGB-3 unit from Solaris Japan but haven't used it much yet. It works quite well, however I'm having a little difficulty.
I have the version with english firmware and I'm fairly certain it's the most recent version as I just bought it. My problem is that I can't get any scanlines to come on. I've tried it with my Sega Genesis, and again, it shows up fine, but no scanlines no matter how I change the settings.
Also, what is the easiest way to tell if there is any difference when you are switching between B0 and B1 mode?
any help on those two issues (scanlines and how to tell the difference between B0 and B1) would be greatly appreciated!
Got mine a few days ago and have the same issue.
Will try Fudoh tips and make and update.
Don't think the display would make a difference but yeah you're probably right about the mod. I eagerly await your findings on the subject of PC Engine mods!
Unless you unlock the Edge's output, it should make a difference. My NEC displays here behave completely different from my Sony TV with the exact same sources.
well I discovered that I think my B1 mode may have been working all along and I just wasn't going about it correctly.
Firstly there is a Menu button and up and down key, and an OK button. They are on the unit and the remote. The menu button functions as a back button when the menu is activated. It is important for you to use the OK button to save a setting, as the menu button will cancel you out without saving it.
You have to go to Advanced > Horizontal Scanlines and lower the value, I would put it down to at least 95 so there is no mistake about missing it, it can be adjusted later.
Next you need to go to Advanced > FPGA Select and select B1
Next you need to go to Options > Power Mode and ensure it is set to Standby.
From there simply hold the power button on the console until the unit shuts off. Hold it again in a moment to reboot it and the scanlines should be working.
I'm sure this isn't news to 95% of you but I thought it might be useful.
I did try updating the B1 firmware on a WinXP machine without much success. It would get to the end of the update bar and then fail.
I wondered if it was because I already had the firmware and just didn't realize it. Thankfully it didn't brick my system, although I am having some interesting issues.
When I am in B1 mode it seems to force 16:9 aspect ratio even when I set it to 4:3. It also seems to be forced to underscan mode even when I set it to standard or PSP.
Is this regular in B1 mode? I don't have the issues in B0 mode.
Thanks.
Last edited by panzeroceania on Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:36 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Anything specifically you would like testing with the Sync Strike and XRGB-3 combo?
Any chance you can try 'PC Engine->Sync Strike->XRG3 B1->DVDO Edge->Display'
for me?
Thanks
I get no sync issues regardless of whether I use my RGB amp or not (with or without the Sync Strike). My PCE is a TG16. Looks like i'm one of the lucky ones with the XRGB-3.
Well, yes, you have to power down and restart after switching firmware banks.
When I am in B1 mode it seems to force 16:9 aspect ratio even when I set it to 4:3. It also seems to be forced to underscan mode even when I set it to standard or PSP.
The aspect ratio controls are disabled in B1. The output is always "fullscreen". Since the output resolution is 640/720x480p though, it's actually more correct to say that the ratio is locked to classic 4:3 (e.g. the very same signal your PC delivers if set to 640x480 or like a Dreamcast using a VGA box). If you get a 16:9 display you have to use your display's aspect ratio controls to fix this.
Unless you unlock the Edge's output, it should make a difference. My NEC displays here behave completely different from my Sony TV with the exact same sources.
Yes different displays behave differently, but in the case of the certain PC Engines->XRGB3->DVDO Edge->Display I doubt very much that any display would work.
I do still play my PC Engine through the Edge without the XRGB3 in the chain but I would be over the moon to have it working through the XRGB3. With the new DVDO Edge CSYNC Extron trick I found (see the DVDO Edge thread) I can get a stable picture, but it's all warped at the top. As soon as I change the NTSC AFC level it removes the warping but starts the picture blanking again :\
Oh, should add it worked on my old TV too (Hitachi 32DP3200 Plasma, everything worked on that set, except anything above 480p through component, anyway I'm waffling....)
The trials and tribulations of flat panels... I fear the day I upgrade. Down right dread it really.
Damn Tim, you know there are quite a few Americans out there who still lives in tents due to this shitty economy, and you're dropping loads on a single game which only last 20 min. Do you think it's fair? How much did you spend this time?
Really I am scared of what ever flat panel I get not being compatible with my MVS.
Damn Tim, you know there are quite a few Americans out there who still lives in tents due to this shitty economy, and you're dropping loads on a single game which only last 20 min. Do you think it's fair? How much did you spend this time?
Is there any reason why this would not work? I've been happily using my XRGB-3 for years and the other day wanted to output video from my PC to the TV so I could watch movies. As my XRGB-3 is hooked up to the TV and has a PC Input I just passed a DVI lead from the 9800 GT's second output terminal to the XRGB-3 PC In but I'm getting squat, zilch, nothing.
Am I doing something wrong? Anyone tried this? Thanks for any help.
The XRGB-3 doesn't do Digital to Analog conversion. So if you have your XRGB-3 connected to your TV with VGA that's your problem. You have to do either PC <VGA> XRGB-3 <VGA> TV or PC <DVI> XRGB-3 <DVI to HDMI> TV.
Excellent!! You solved it! I just checked and I'm using the XRGB-3 VGA Out to the TV. Is there any advantage one way or the other between using VGA Out or DVI Out from the XRGB? My TV is a HDMI compatible Plasma. I don't know why I opted for VGA at the time, I may have been mistaken. Anyway thanks for such a clear answer.
Fudoh wrote:Also the 1080p HDMI is bad to say at least, so your TV might not be compatible.
Few HDTVs will accept the XRGB-3's B0 1080p output when using a DVI-D to HDMI connection. However, computer monitors typically have no problem (DVI-D to DVI-D). However, if you don't use B1 mode, a DVI-D to HDMI connection would deliver the cleanest image. Also, if your PC is outputting a DVI-D signal with HDCP, the XRGB-3 might not pass it through to the DVI-D output.
Do you have a flat panel currently? Are you concerned with MVS->B1 operation?
Nope.... Sony XBR HD set and a MVS in B1 mode. I only use B1 mode as my set can do 480p native. I am concerned with it not functioning or anything else for that matter when I upgrade. I do want a set that can do 3D.
Damn Tim, you know there are quite a few Americans out there who still lives in tents due to this shitty economy, and you're dropping loads on a single game which only last 20 min. Do you think it's fair? How much did you spend this time?
panzeroceania wrote:I recently bought an XRGB-3 unit from Solaris Japan but haven't used it much yet. It works quite well, however I'm having a little difficulty.
I have the version with english firmware and I'm fairly certain it's the most recent version as I just bought it. My problem is that I can't get any scanlines to come on. I've tried it with my Sega Genesis, and again, it shows up fine, but no scanlines no matter how I change the settings.
Also, what is the easiest way to tell if there is any difference when you are switching between B0 and B1 mode?
any help on those two issues (scanlines and how to tell the difference between B0 and B1) would be greatly appreciated!
Got mine a few days ago and have the same issue.
Will try Fudoh tips and make and update.
Made the update and now... works!
So even if the XRGB-3 comes with the english update, it's good to made the update...
OK, I think I'll stick with the XRGB-3 VGA Out and get a converter to convert my PC DVI Out to VGA for the XRGB. I just re-read up on B1 and B0, mainly from Fudoh's site http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ Fudoh, your site is so good, its a god send. I've been using B0 up until now without thinking about it, maybe I'll give B1 a try, I'm pretty much just using a PS2, GameCube and Wii these days and B1 appears to be popular.
edwinbradford wrote:I've been using B0 up until now without thinking about it, maybe I'll give B1 a try, I'm pretty much just using a PS2, GameCube and Wii these days and B1 appears to be popular.
B1 is primarily for 240p. 480i is okay, looks better with scanlines enabled. 480p is simply transcoded and the quality of the transcoding is not great. B0 does a very good job scaling 480p signals, but the quality depends on the source. Some games, like Gradius V and 2D Dreamcast fighters look fantastic, while others not so much. The scaling is very sharp and some games look much better with a softer scaling engine with interpolation (Dead or Alive 2, Soul Calibur, Tokyo Extreme Racer 2, off the top of my head).
Don't limit yourself to just 3D sets. As a gamer, a 3D converter is invaluable. You can use it with almost any set. The feedback on these "VIP" converters has been good so far.
