Putting a Seimitsu LS-32-01 in an Agetec DC stick (oxtu?)

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 11:12 pm

Oxtu:

I've got one of these, and two more coming... and just realized that it's a bit tricky to get this sucker in right. It can be done though, if I'm not mistaken. Basically, the base of the stick takes up the WHOLE square area where it's supposed to mount. I've got no place to screw it in. The Sanwa JLPT-8Y's fit almost perfectly, but the Seimitsu seems a bit too big. Any ideas?

Tychom · Post by **Tychom** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 10:36 am

I've a page here on sticking an LS-32 in a DC stick, it's really no hardre than with a Sanwa stick.

SAM · Post by **SAM** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 11:16 am

Nice link, Tychom.

I have always wondering about the idea of installing a LS-32 within the AgeTec DC stick.

By the way, what is the difference between LS-32-01 and LS-32 ?

Tychom · Post by **Tychom** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 11:51 am

From the pics on the seimitsu site it appears to be just a LS-32 with a PCB attached (with male connecter), so no need to solder direct to the microswitch legs, just use the supplied harness.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 10:01 pm

Yeah, that's the only difference. I've got the 01. I prefer the harness just b/c I don't like harness. There's a downside though.
1: You'll have to do some cutting away on the column inside, or the harness won't fit. It's not that big of a deal, but it is some more work.
2: You gotta figure out which lead matches which direction, which I've yet to do. O_o

Great page, Tychom. I appreciate it. My only concern right now is that the screws the LS-32 comes with aren't long enough to go through the case and hold the stick in place, but that should be easy enough to fix.

Tychom · Post by **Tychom** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 11:28 pm

I actually used the ones that came with the stick/mounting plate in my example.

They are long enough to hold the stick firmly enough but obviously they're supposed to go all the way in and don't quite manage it. My concern was that I wouldnt be able to find screws with the same thread (i think that's the correct term) so I just went with them, it only gets light use after all so it won't break in my case.

As he screws have that come with the plate have the triangular head (i.e |>--- and not ||---) you could always widen the cut into the plastic slightly too to bore the screw in further.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Tue Oct 18, 2005 4:37 am

That's good to here. Thanks. I need to link your site at JG.
For the record, the plate that comes on mine seems a bit smaller, but I'm pretty sure it will work okay.

Now I just gotta get a pass from the wife to solder in the house. She hates the smell.

oxtsu · Post by **oxtsu** » Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:50 am

GaijinPunch wrote:1: You'll have to do some cutting away on the column inside, or the harness won't fit. It's not that big of a deal, but it is some more work.

Turn it so the 5-pin is facing any direction but left.

2: You gotta figure out which lead matches which direction, which I've yet to do.

It is the same with all of them, thankfully. The pinout changes depending on what direction the connector is facing. The first pin is always ground.

I would suggest cutting the 5-pin harness from the original DC stick so you dont have to solder directly to the controller PCB pins. Then just solder or crimp those onto the new 5-pin harness (included w/'01').

For the record, the plate that comes on mine seems a bit smaller, but I'm pretty sure it will work okay.

Yes the plate on '01' is not as wide as the regular LS-32 flat plate. The mounting points on the stick are the same though, it's the important thing here.

Great page, Tychom.

Second. Nice design. :)

SAM · Post by **SAM** » Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:00 pm

oxtsu wrote:
For the record, the plate that comes on mine seems a bit smaller, but I'm pretty sure it will work okay.
Yes the plate on '01' is not as wide as the regular LS-32 flat plate. The mounting points on the stick are the same though, it's the important thing here.

Opps, then the holes on the plate won't fit the mount within Hori RAP? (I can recall that the plate of a LS-32 is just fit the mount within my Tekken 5 RAP.) I heard that the 'LS-32-01' was the model used in the Hori RAP Seimitsu model, how could it mount within Hori RAP then?

Nevermind, since I can take the plate of the "LS-32" which is going to mount in the AgeTac and use it on the "LS-32-01" which would go into the Hori RAP.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Tue Oct 18, 2005 7:44 pm

Turn it so the 5-pin is facing any direction but left.

I made that claim BEFORE I tried unscrewing the plate. Whoops.

It is the same with all of them, thankfully. The pinout changes depending on what direction the connector is facing. The first pin is always ground.

Happen to have the directions if I face the connector to the outside of the stick?

I would suggest cutting the 5-pin harness from the original DC stick so you dont have to solder directly to the controller PCB pins. Then just solder or crimp those onto the new 5-pin harness (included w/'01').

Soldering to a PS controller, and maybe even for the SuperGun, so no love w/ the DC harness.

Thanks for the input though.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:02 pm

One thing. Does the plate serve any real purpose? wouldn't that give me an extra millimeter or two of length that the shaft needs if I simply don't use it?

SAM · Post by **SAM** » Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:23 pm

GaijinPunch wrote:One thing. Does the plate serve any real purpose?

Well the purpose of the plate is for you to mount the joystick within the acrade cab. If you can find ways to secure the joystick within the control panal, it is not important that whether you make used of the plate or not.

GaijinPunch wrote:wouldn't that give me an extra millimeter or two of length that the shaft needs if I simply don't use it?

Well if you don't use the mounting plate, the joystick would simply stick out a few millimeters.

IMO, I suggest not to use the mounting plate when installing the LS-32 within the AgeTac joystick. Since the mounting plate serve no purpose here.

And as the white plastic joystick mounting socket of the AgeTac is already under the control panel, if you include the mounting plate, I am afraid that the shaft of the joystick would be a bit short.

Furthermore, including the mounting plate would required more plastic around the mounting socket to be removed. And that means more work.

(Well unless you could trim the mounting plate by cutting the unwanted part.)

SAM · Post by **SAM** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 5:16 am

I have finally did the modification yesterday.

The LS-32 works fine within the AgeTac.

But I found the holes on the metal plate for the buttons are too small for the Sanwa 30mm buttons.

How you guys swop the buttons on the AgeTac?

What did you done? Enlarge the holes on the metal plate? Trim the pastic of the Sanwa buttons? Replace the metal plate? Please let me know.

GaijinPunch · Post by **GaijinPunch** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 5:51 am

Here in the states we have a tool called a Dremel which is perfect for this. It's an electrical handtool that works like a cutter, sander, etc. You use a stone bit, and you basically "shave" the holes until they are wide enough. It takes a little time for each hole, and the metal plate WILL get hot. It will also leave metal shavings all over the place.

http://www.dremel.com/HTML/home_fr.html

oxtsu · Post by **oxtsu** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 1:43 am

GaijinPunch wrote:Happen to have the directions if I face the connector to the outside of the stick?

Sorry, I do not. Look at the PCB and trace the microswitch solder points to the connector, it's the way. Remember that the left and right directions are reversed from what is seen on the PCB, depending (example: left micro is actually right directional command).