TV RGB mod thread

[Kuwaking]

hello. I live in South Korea and I got a CRT TV called CT-14R1, which is similar to Samsung TXH1973, and I wanted to do RGB MOD with it, so I searched a lot of materials and ended up here. At first I saw Sunthar's Super Sector doing a similar type of thing and proceeded to do it, but the screen came out weird, so I searched a lot of materials and looked for other types of things and ended up writing this. I was wondering if anyone could help me.
I'll link the image for reference.

https://imgur.com/a/yIGrGjf

So you tried this by Sunthar?
https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... h1973.html

Here is another service manual for a similar TV that uses same jungle and matches up with what Sunthar references.(According to this manual jungle KA2163B and TA1282N are same or at least compatible)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70091 ... x-Xap.html

What is the rest of your circuit, for connecting external RGB to the jungle chip? I don't see that on your picture.

FYI I have not done any MUX mods. All of the RGB mods I have done have been to closed-circuit TVs I pick up from control rooms at job sites in an industrial environment (I'm a contractor). Those TVs have been as simple as just injecting RGB to jungle chips that otherwise were left unused. Simple, older CCTVs don't typically use on-screen-display unless it's a multi channel model CCTV.

A photo of the work done is attached. The FB side is a little different, but I didn't take pictures of the work I did before. In conclusion, I did this, but the screen always shined brightly, as if a hazy fog was rising.

https://imgur.com/a/EnQEgAM

[rideordie71]

hello. I live in South Korea and I got a CRT TV called CT-14R1, which is similar to Samsung TXH1973, and I wanted to do RGB MOD with it, so I searched a lot of materials and ended up here. At first I saw Sunthar's Super Sector doing a similar type of thing and proceeded to do it, but the screen came out weird, so I searched a lot of materials and looked for other types of things and ended up writing this. I was wondering if anyone could help me.
I'll link the image for reference.

https://imgur.com/a/yIGrGjf

So you tried this by Sunthar?
https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... h1973.html

Here is another service manual for a similar TV that uses same jungle and matches up with what Sunthar references.(According to this manual jungle KA2163B and TA1282N are same or at least compatible)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70091 ... x-Xap.html

What is the rest of your circuit, for connecting external RGB to the jungle chip? I don't see that on your picture.

FYI I have not done any MUX mods. All of the RGB mods I have done have been to closed-circuit TVs I pick up from control rooms at job sites in an industrial environment (I'm a contractor). Those TVs have been as simple as just injecting RGB to jungle chips that otherwise were left unused. Simple, older CCTVs don't typically use on-screen-display unless it's a multi channel model CCTV.

A photo of the work done is attached. The FB side is a little different, but I didn't take pictures of the work I did before. In conclusion, I did this, but the screen always shined brightly, as if a hazy fog was rising.

https://imgur.com/a/EnQEgAM

Your new pictures look like you are using 75 ohm (violet, green, brack) grounding resistors.
Your markup sheet from the first batch of pictures show that you intend to use 750 ohm (violet, green, brown) grounding resistors for R204, R205, R206.
Is this correct?
You have listed 3.9k ohm (orange, white, red) on your markup sheet for coming from the OSD chip but I don't see that value resistor I see 750 ohm, but the service manuals listed show 7.5k ohm (violet, green, red) is here from factory.
From what I can see, it's like you're kind of following Sunthar but are using different resistors for inline from external RGB, and different for R916, 917, 918 which looks to be 750 ohm (violet, green, brown).
What are your inline resistors for your external RGB? It's not on your markup sheet and I only see the end of the wire in the resistor triangle where you're injecting it.

Or maybe I've screwed this all up and I'm observing what you've actually wired all wrong and I'm just being confusing to you and myself.

https://m.blog.naver.com/savethequeen/221458917967
https://web.archive.org/web/20170815085 ... mpt.62175/
On these links are RGB mods people have done to TVs with this jungle chip.

[Kuwaking]

So you tried this by Sunthar?
https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... h1973.html

Here is another service manual for a similar TV that uses same jungle and matches up with what Sunthar references.(According to this manual jungle KA2163B and TA1282N are same or at least compatible)
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70091 ... x-Xap.html

What is the rest of your circuit, for connecting external RGB to the jungle chip? I don't see that on your picture.

FYI I have not done any MUX mods. All of the RGB mods I have done have been to closed-circuit TVs I pick up from control rooms at job sites in an industrial environment (I'm a contractor). Those TVs have been as simple as just injecting RGB to jungle chips that otherwise were left unused. Simple, older CCTVs don't typically use on-screen-display unless it's a multi channel model CCTV.

A photo of the work done is attached. The FB side is a little different, but I didn't take pictures of the work I did before. In conclusion, I did this, but the screen always shined brightly, as if a hazy fog was rising.

https://imgur.com/a/EnQEgAM

Your new pictures look like you are using 75 ohm (violet, green, brack) grounding resistors.
Your markup sheet from the first batch of pictures show that you intend to use 750 ohm (violet, green, brown) grounding resistors for R204, R205, R206.
Is this correct?
You have listed 3.9k ohm (orange, white, red) on your markup sheet for coming from the OSD chip but I don't see that value resistor I see 750 ohm, but the service manuals listed show 7.5k ohm (violet, green, red) is here from factory.
From what I can see, it's like you're kind of following Sunthar but are using different resistors for inline from external RGB, and different for R916, 917, 918 which looks to be 750 ohm (violet, green, brown).
What are your inline resistors for your external RGB? It's not on your markup sheet and I only see the end of the wire in the resistor triangle where you're injecting it.

Or maybe I've screwed this all up and I'm observing what you've actually wired all wrong and I'm just being confusing to you and myself.

https://m.blog.naver.com/savethequeen/221458917967
https://web.archive.org/web/20170815085 ... mpt.62175/
On these links are RGB mods people have done to TVs with this jungle chip.

The markup sheet in the first picture I posted last time shows what was originally on my brown tube, this time I used an RGB mux from Suntar's Super Sector, and the resistors on my CRT are different than the ones listed in the service manual. The service manual says that the resistors coming out of the OSD (R916,R917,R918) are 7.5k ohms, whereas my CRT is 3.9k ohms, R204, R205, and R206 are 1.2k ohms, whereas my brown tube is 750 ohms, and the R919 resistor is also listed as 8.2k ohms, whereas my CRT is 56 ohms. And most importantly, I'm not getting good results with the current RGB MUX calculation method. I contacted the author of the Naver link you posted and he said that the MUX method is difficult to use, which is a bit disappointing.

[rideordie71]

Perhaps try this. You'll have to remove the original grounding resistors R204, R205, R206.


Here is the calculation for those values.

I didn't do anything to blanking as it seems you got that working.

If it still looks bad then someone more experienced than me could step in.
Sorry I couldn't help more.

[Kuwaking]

Perhaps try this. You'll have to remove the original grounding resistors R204, R205, R206.


Here is the calculation for those values.

I didn't do anything to blanking as it seems you got that working.

If it still looks bad then someone more experienced than me could step in.
Sorry I couldn't help more.

Unfortunately, the method you wrote is the same method I currently apply. I don't know why, but it seems like the screen gets too bright when I do that. Still, thank you so much for the helping hand!

[rideordie71]

Perhaps try this. You'll have to remove the original grounding resistors R204, R205, R206.


Here is the calculation for those values.

I didn't do anything to blanking as it seems you got that working.

If it still looks bad then someone more experienced than me could step in.
Sorry I couldn't help more.

Unfortunately, the method you wrote is the same method I currently apply. I don't know why, but it seems like the screen gets too bright when I do that. Still, thank you so much for the helping hand!

I wonder if this could be helped with doing with 0.5v p-p instead of 0.7v. I'm just thinking out loud.

[KPackratt2k]

The Toshiba jungle chips used in those Samsung CRTs expect a 1.0vp-p signal, in this case it's recommended to try 180-220 ohm termination resistors. That might fix your problems.

Another thing you could try is calibrating the set by adjusting the settings in the service menu, as well as adjusting the Screen knob on the flyback.

[tongshadow]

It looks like I'd need a master setup remote to enter the service menu, so I just ordered an Anderic RR2573 master setup remote that should hopefully do the job.


How did you go about wiring yours up? I've been trying to come up with a good way to feed in RGB but I've got nothing thus far.

I'm also trying to come up with a way to get composite onto the back of the TV, it's seeming like the easiest way would just be to desolder the front jack and feed it to the rear, but I'm not sure if there's a cleaner way to handle it.

You're gonna work on pins 50~53. First you need to see if the RGB inputs are populated by grounded SMD capacitors, if yes, you'll need to remove them. Pin 50 is the insertion pin, which is fed by 3.3v that goes through 2 resistors. It's basically digital blanking.

This is how you wire them:
https://i.imgur.com/FYP8vJt.png
You can use between 10nF (103) and 100nF (104) ceramic capacitors, they dont have to be SMD btw.

The hardest part is getting a proper connector for RGB. Your sync signal will come from the Composite input.
Then you enable RGB Blanking and RGB mode through the service menu:
https://i.imgur.com/4OESUpz.png
https://i.imgur.com/OSpUslc.png

The addresses are called "Control 0" and "Control 1", you change the values to 64~74" and "2", respectively. For the latter you can try different values if you dont see RGB. That was the case for my set, but since the Microprocessor is the same it should be similar or identical.

Nice! What settings did you use for the option bits?

Control 0 to 72, from default 8.
Control 1 to 2, from default 0.

Hi friend, I have a 14pt418a, which uses the same TDA95xx, I have exactly the RGB pins described as you said, one more thing I didn't understand in your explanation, where am I going to change in the service menu these values that you posted talking about control 0 and control 1, could you explain this to me better?

That TV allowed me to edit the EEPROM's data bits through the service menu itself, I'm afraid it's not possible on your Philips. That's why TVs without jungle chips should be avoided.

[quasimodo1]

Sadly I can't find a service manual at all for it. Its got awesome picture when hook to s-video and its the perfect size.

Im thinking about giving up on it. I did have one tv working perfectly with my ps1, but my SNES, N64 and Genesis had very dark colors and anything that was supposed to be white was black.

Now im waiting on a OSSC upscaler for my 32'' samsung. Ill be running dual tvs, PS1-Genesis-N64-SNES--->14'' Sony PVM, PVM exit ports to--->OSSC--->32'' Samsung. Thats how I have it set up right now instead of the ossc im using a crappy scart to component convertor from ebay.

Who knows I might get bored again and try at it.

Did you ever get your sylvania 6420ff RGB modded? I have the same one that I would like to mod

[Kuwaking]

Perhaps try this. You'll have to remove the original grounding resistors R204, R205, R206.


Here is the calculation for those values.

I didn't do anything to blanking as it seems you got that working.

If it still looks bad then someone more experienced than me could step in.
Sorry I couldn't help more.

Unfortunately, the method you wrote is the same method I currently apply. I don't know why, but it seems like the screen gets too bright when I do that. Still, thank you so much for the helping hand!

I wonder if this could be helped with doing with 0.5v p-p instead of 0.7v. I'm just thinking out loud.

I think I'll have to give it a try after my business trip. Thanks for your help!

[Kuwaking]

The Toshiba jungle chips used in those Samsung CRTs expect a 1.0vp-p signal, in this case it's recommended to try 180-220 ohm termination resistors. That might fix your problems.

Another thing you could try is calibrating the set by adjusting the settings in the service menu, as well as adjusting the Screen knob on the flyback.

oh! Could it be a 1.0v p-p signal? I'll have to try it after I return from my business trip. Thanks for your help!

[wishiwas]

-EDITED-

[maxonival]

Hello, i'm attempting an rgb mod for the first time but i can't find where to take 5V for the blanking signal, here are the schematics from the tv:
https://imgur.com/1rHb5Wo
Thanks.

[Odyssey113]

For whatever reason, I'm getting the itch to RGB mod another CRT, and somebody is willing to drop off an Orion TV1934a to me this evening to work on. I'm looking at what I believe is this TV's service manual, but it looks like there are a few different schematics inside of this one pdf:

service manual

If I'm reading this correctly, it looks to be a simple-enough mod. I just want to check my work because I haven't done this in nearly a year.

• 4.7k (R123, R122, R121) resistors on the RGB lines will have me using 750ohm resistors on the external lines
• I need to remove R102, R103, and R104 and instead ground my external line with 75ohm
• I don't know where to pull 5v for blanking to go into the jungle chip... I actually need some help here.

Does that sound right?

But again, it looks like this one service manual has a couple of schematics with different ICs, so I'm not sure.

I picked up one of these models last night, a TV1934 model specifically.

I was curious if you ever ended up completing this mod?

I'd love some pointers. Looks like it's got the goods to do so.

[exitnode]

I am experiencing an issue with interference in my setup on one of my pro monitors under certain conditions. The monitor is a JVC TM-H1700G that I RGB modded using Martin Hejnfelt's breakout scart board. It's perfect when a source is plugged directly in, but has a wavy horizontal interference pattern when I run a source to it through the RetroUpgrades VGA2SCART. I use an extron mvx with vga inputs in my setup, and have sources going in through a SCART2VGA from RetroUpgrades and a Ypbpr to RGB VGA transcoder from wakabavideo, among others. This setup works perfectly on my other sets (a nettv presentation monitor connected to a VGA2SCART, a JVC TM-H150C with the clone card, and a BVM A14F5U with the BKM-68XTREME clone card).

Things I have tried:

Plugging the VGA2SCART directly in to the SCART2VGA (and then into the monitor, removing the extron from the chain)

Different Scart RGB sources in (Genesis, PS1 sync on luma, N64, Saturn) all with quality insurrection industry or retro access cabling

Sending CSYNC from the ypbpr to rgb adapter as well as sending H/V sync (and directly into the VGA2SCART)

Sync stripper on and off on the SCART2VGA

Different micro usb power for the SCART2VGA, high end anker charger and different power strips

Power conditioning high end power strip (Trip Lite Isobar) for the monitor itself

Power source from VGA and from external micro usb on VGA2SCART (should only impact blanking which is working either way)

Swapping the vga and scart cables, which work fine on other monitors and don't seem to make a difference

Swapping the VGA2SCART for another one (I have two)


My next ideas are to move the SCART2VGA, VGA2SCART, and monitor to another floor in my house and try it there, thinking it could be the wiring in my old home. I know the jvc pro monitors are notoriously finnicky about sync. I am injecting sync in the composite input as Martin Hejnfelt suggests. Another idea would be trying something like the UMSA Scart Adapter from arcade forge or making my own cable. Although I'd just be recreating what the VGA2SCART is doing anyway at the end of the day I'd imagine.

Any suggestions or guidance on things to check are much appreciated. I know these pro JVC's are fiddly with sync, so I suspect it could be something related to that. I can take some pics, although the interference is hard to capture. Through the VGA2SCART, lines don't stay put cleanly and seem to have a rolling wave of soft interference along them, while when a console is plugged right in it is crisp, clear, and steady. Sorry for writing a book lol.

Pics of the mod: https://imgur.com/a/JBgZgtQ

SCART2VGA: https://www.retroupgrades.co.uk/product ... a-adapter/

VGA2SCART: https://www.retroupgrades.co.uk/product/vga2scart/

Figured it out. The scart cable (kabledireckt from Amazon) going to the monitor was too close to the power outlet. When I move it a foot away the issue disappears. Not sure if that's a sign the cable is poorly shielded or that the electrical in my old home needs updated, but problem solved.

[bshi02]

Hello.
Is it possible to mod LG slimCRT TV which make use of microprocessor of "EAN35725302 LG043 9R"?

[Sega76]

Hi everyone,
Could someone have a look at this diagram and tell me if this Base D6871NF tv is Mux Moddable ?
As the diagram states, the tv's circuit board has no rgb grounding resistors or inline caps? The board is marked to take the resistors, but they're missing?
Thanks

[Osirus]

Hi everyone,
Could someone have a look at this diagram and tell me if this Base D6871NF tv is Mux Moddable ?
As the diagram states, the tv's circuit board has no rgb grounding resistors or inline caps? The board is marked to take the resistors, but they're missing?
Thanks

The diagram shows your standard inline and grounding resistors for RGB, R736-R741. Are you saying the actual board is different?

[Sega76]

The diagram shows your standard inline and grounding resistors for RGB, R736-R741. Are you saying the actual board is different?

The board is identical to the diagram, inline resistors are there there but the rgb grounding ones aren't?
The diagram shows an "X" next to the 3 grounding resistors as if they're not used?
There are markings on the board for R737, R739 and R741, but they're definitely not there?

[Osirus]

The diagram shows your standard inline and grounding resistors for RGB, R736-R741. Are you saying the actual board is different?

The board is identical to the diagram, inline resistors are there there but the rgb grounding ones aren't?
The diagram shows an "X" next to the 3 grounding resistors as if they're not used?
There are markings on the board for R737, R739 and R741, but they're definitely not there?

Have to look into the datasheets for the jungle chip. Could be it's Digital RGB for the OSD.

[MarkOZLAD]

Hi everyone,
Could someone have a look at this diagram and tell me if this Base D6871NF tv is Mux Moddable ?
As the diagram states, the tv's circuit board has no rgb grounding resistors or inline caps? The board is marked to take the resistors, but they're missing?
Thanks

Any time I see LA76818 or LA76810 I run for the hills screaming.

[titan91]

Does anyone know if an NTSC Wii console will output RGB without having to result to a PAL system menu? Maybe using USB Loader GX? If so, does that require the use of custom loaders that force the PAL60 mode ? I realize this isn't a Wii related thread but I came across a very basic Funai made/Sylvania branded VCR combo TV. Unfortunately from looking at service manuals of similar sets, the combination microcontroller/jungle IC does not support s-video Y/C inputs and does not expose an RGB input. But, I have seen some people do neck board RGB mods.

I realize this is an uncommon approach, and this type of mod will have different results between different video sources and drives/cutoffs will need adjusting. There is also over 100 volts on the collector sides of the transistors I need to be fully aware of, along with the need to 75Ω terminate each line and put it in series with 0.1μf caps. So I had the idea of buying a junk Wii off eBay with broken DVD drive and installing it internally, in place of the VCR and 3D print a housing for the controller ports, buttons, and SD card. But, before I even seriously consider that I need to know if an NTSC Wii can output 525 line 60Hz RGB. I can then simultaneously use the composite or luma output of the Wii for sync.

I'm also aware that I would need to a use scope to verify the expected level for the base of each neck board drive transistor. If the level is high, like 1vpp, then a series resistor or voltage divider is needed. If it's low and needs a positive DC offset to bias the guns, then I assume I would need to mix in a DC voltage source and reduce that mixed voltage back down.

I understand this is a bit ambitious, but otherwise it's a set with a basic composite input and doing something like this would give me a reason to keep it. I don't intend on watching VHS tapes on it, I have other VCRs and software decoding tools already for the format.

I was wrong! I pulled the chassis board from this Sylvania 6319CA VCR combo TV and the VCR servo controller IC is also the microcontroller. So I have RGB and fast blanking running across the board to the jungle IC in the back.

The RCA TruFlat with built-in DVD player decided to short the tube, so my plan B is as follows:

Remove the VHS deck and replace it with a homebrewed Wii with a broken case and bad DVD drive, powered internally from the TV's 12v power supply mounted to the existing points used for the VHS mechanism

Connect the Wii to a component to RGB converter, powered internally from the TV's 5v power supply

RGB mod the TV

Remove the front A/V jacks and replace with toggle switches to select between Wii and new component input jacks, and to enable/disable the composite input and fast blank for OSD in composite mode

Disconnect the 1/8" headphone jack and use it for something else if needed

Add jacks to the rear for Wii audio out to my Hi-Fi receiver and move the audio input jack to the rear as well

Expose a Gamecube controller port, SD card slot, and USB port using a 3D printed faceplate and wire the Wii buttons into the VCR buttons (record button for pair, play button for power, rewind button for reset, stop button for eject​)

Use a wireless sensor bar on the top of the set

If all that works call this monster the WiiVii

[titan91]

In other news I have a 24" Symphonic TV that is cost cut to the max, has no RGB inputs, and the s-video input pins on the chip in this set are disabled/not used. I intend to replace the chassis board with the Yi Chuang one, made famous by Adrian's Digital Basement and the GitHub repository for documentation.

These two listings use identical photos, and the price is a few dollars between them. Is there any known difference in the two listings? One has several labeled photos and the other does not.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805927619013.html

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806022840882.html

Also, has anyone confirmed this new chassis works with Funai tubes? AKA any Sanyo/Sylvania/Emerson/Symphonic TVs? The yoke resistance being the main concern.

[titan91]

Hey everyone. I have a real nice 2003 model 20" Symphonic/Funai WF203 flat screen that only has composite in. I just found a fantastically detailed service manual and was looking it over. I'd like to be able to RGB mod the set, but I would settle for S-Video if I had to. From my limited knowledge, it appears the IC333 pins 29 (C) and 30 (Y) are unused and basically ripe for the taking. Only question is what do I need to do with the pin 61 (S-Video Input detect). What kind of signal would be expected on that pin to get the set to use the incoming signals on 29 and 30.

As far as RGB modding, I dont see any RGB input pins, only output. Would tapping into the output lines work? If so, what could I do about sync? I see some H and V sync related circuitry and pins, but have no clue what would be needed for injecting a sync signal there. If I tap into RGB outputs, could connecting sync into the composite port do the trick if I made the tv look at the correct video in? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Spoiler

Hey Josh128, your post was pivotal in determining the possibility of an s-video mod on mine. Looking at about a dozen service manuals of Funai sets, it seems typically only the stereo models did not have pins 61, 29, and 30 locked out. The schematic for yours says pin 61 is not used, but the IC Pin Functions section says otherwise. Also, we can clearly see the internal switch on the block diagram for those Y and C inputs. The chip in mine ends with an 8 instead of a 7 in the part number. You would think that would be a good sign, since that often indicates the same level of functionality as the previous revision number. But no, the detect and input pins are locked out.

I did test this by connecting a voltage divider to pin 61 to using a resistor pretty close to 470 ohms going to ground as seen in other service manuals where the s-video port was wired in. That puts that pin in the ballpark of the 4.8v required to enable that input on unlocked ICs. With that connected the front composite port was still active in game mode. I then connected a 1uf capacitor in series with pin 30 and terminated it to 75 ohms, followed by feeding it a luma signal from an s-video source. The TV did not respond at all to this, it didn't even sync, just a black screen. So when the engineers say NU on these s-video inputs, they mean it even if you try.

[TheRetroCarrot]

Hello, I'm looking for a bit of help with modding a KV32S42. This will be my first attempted RGB mod, I'm good at following instructions, but this is a bit out of my technical knowledge. I've been looking over the schematics of my particular set and have a few questions. I've attached photos for reference.

1. For my resistor values, when I follow the OSD output in the schematic I see 220, 3.3k, and 2.2k resistors. Am I missing anything or when using the OSD mux formula do I just add those together to get a resistance of 5720. This would result in an 1100 ohm resistor on each external RGB line? I've highlighted these in the schematic.
2. For R4 in the mux diagram, am I correct this would match R067 in the schematic as 470 ohm?
3. For sync, from what I understand I can just use the Luma pin from the s-video connection, is there a good place to tie into this that's fairly standard on these chassis I should look for, or tie into wherever the jack terminates? I've seen a couple mentions of a dummy plug being needed, what needs to be terminated in this? Is this because these sets default to composite video if they don't detect s-video?
4. Anything else that I didn't think of. Or can this mod basically be broken down into removing R1123, 1128, 133, tying in RGB from the scart connector to these with an inline and terminating resistor. Adding a diode somewhere in line after R067 for blanking, and wiring this to the scart connector with an inline resistory matching R067. Wiring up the scart connector grounds, sync, and audio?

Thanks in advance for all the help.

[KPackratt2k]

1. The OSD circuit on your chassis doesn't match a typical analog RGB OSD set where the OSD output of the microcontroller is strictly RGB. Rather, the microcontroller is outputting digital RGBI (the "I" is an intensity channel that defines the brightness of certain pixels on the OSD) which gets converted to analog RGB through a set of transistors. For simplicity, the most common method of determining the resistor values used here is to subtract 75 from the original grounding resistor values (390 in this case), which gives us 315 ohms. 330 ohms is the closest common resistor value, so most people who have modded Sony TVs using the AA-2D chassis opted for 330 ohm inline resistors with 75 ohm termination. Therefore, it's recommended to use 330 ohm resistors inline with your RGB signals (R1, R2, and R3 in your mux diagram).

2. 470 ohms should be fine for your blanking.

3. The shield connector in the S-Video connector of your set is divided into two parts: A ground and a logic signal that's high when no connection is made. By connecting an S-Video cable, the shield of the S-Video plug shorts out the two parts of the shield inside the female connector of the TV, pulling down the logic signal to a low state, activating the S-Video input. Typically, when RGB modding these sets, we ground the non-grounded pin of the S-Video shield detect pin, either with a switch or by permanently grounding it. The advantage of using a switch to pull the logic down when in RGB mode is you can use the Composite input when the switch is off whereas permanently grounding the pin forces the input channel to S-Video at all times.

You can use a DPDT switch to handle both RGB blanking and S-Video detection on a single switch. Simply wire your RGB blanking to the first pole and wire the second pole to the S-Video detection circuit and ground, that way the S-Video input is active when RGB blanking is engaged.

4. You can wire your RGB connections as planned. If you're doing this switchless, just wire one of the SCART grounds to the S-Video detect pin if you don't mind losing the Composite input on the line you're using to input sync. There may also be a stereo detection circuit which ties both audio channels together when nothing is connected to the RCA jacks. To get around this, either connect a set of RCA cables to those jacks to disengage the switching circuit or cut the trace that connects the two stereo audio channels together.

Hopefully this helps you.

[TheRetroCarrot]

That's incredibly helpful, thanks so much!

[Osirus]

Hello, I'm looking for a bit of help with modding a KV32S42. This will be my first attempted RGB mod, I'm good at following instructions, but this is a bit out of my technical knowledge. I've been looking over the schematics of my particular set and have a few questions. I've attached photos for reference.

AA-2D is a well-documented mod, done by myself and others:

viewtopic.php?p=1464324#p1464324

[wishiwas]

EDITED

[TheRetroCarrot]

Hello, I'm looking for a bit of help with modding a KV32S42. This will be my first attempted RGB mod, I'm good at following instructions, but this is a bit out of my technical knowledge. I've been looking over the schematics of my particular set and have a few questions. I've attached photos for reference.

AA-2D is a well-documented mod, done by myself and others:

viewtopic.php?p=1464324#p1464324

I actually ordered the sunthar RGB mux kit, as once I started sourcing parts I realized it'd be $20 in shipping alone just for a $1 SCART connector to Canada. He pointed me to this https://sector.sunthar.com/guides/crt-r ... rt-rgb-mod. Kind of wish I'd found it earlier as it's simple enough even I can make sense of it. I was having a bit of trouble piecing together all the different AA-2D documentation from over the years as it seems to have been done a million times but with slight variations.