TV RGB mod thread

[YutYut96]

Then, when I turned on my console, the screen shut off after about 1 second.

How does the OSD look when the console is on? Is it completely gone too? Could you at least see a glimpse of the RGB picture? With the switch, are you able to use composite video normally?

I can't tell how the OSD looks when the console is on as it's only on for a second before it shuts off. Yes, when I was running the blanking line through the SCART connector, I saw a white screen when I turned on my PS1, so I assume that's the initial startup screen before the PlayStation logo comes on. Yes, with the switch, I am able to use composite normally. I can see a black and white screen when the switch is off but, as soon as I flip the switch, the TV shuts off.

Edit: I made a voltage divider using a couple extra 75 ohm resistors I had. This cut down the 5V to 2.5V from the regulator to the switch. The TV doesn't shut off anymore once I flip the switch, but the picture remains the same; black and white. I can see the text get sharper and my OSD no longer functions when I flip the switch, but no color at all. Does this mean that blanking is not activated?

Digging through the internet, I found the following https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... t_then_tv/

That's the same issue I have and it looks like it may be due to the PIP signal that is mixed with the OSD signal. So, I think I'm going to call it quits on this mod attempt. Thanks everyone!

[tongshadow]

Then, when I turned on my console, the screen shut off after about 1 second.

How does the OSD look when the console is on? Is it completely gone too? Could you at least see a glimpse of the RGB picture? With the switch, are you able to use composite video normally?

I can't tell how the OSD looks when the console is on as it's only on for a second before it shuts off. Yes, when I was running the blanking line through the SCART connector, I saw a white screen when I turned on my PS1, so I assume that's the initial startup screen before the PlayStation logo comes on. Yes, with the switch, I am able to use composite normally. I can see a black and white screen when the switch is off but, as soon as I flip the switch, the TV shuts off.

Edit: I made a voltage divider using a couple extra 75 ohm resistors I had. This cut down the 5V to 2.5V from the regulator to the switch. The TV doesn't shut off anymore once I flip the switch, but the picture remains the same; black and white. I can see the text get sharper and my OSD no longer functions when I flip the switch, but no color at all. Does this mean that blanking is not activated?

Digging through the internet, I found the following https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... t_then_tv/

That's the same issue I have and it looks like it may be due to the PIP signal that is mixed with the OSD signal. So, I think I'm going to call it quits on this mod attempt. Thanks everyone!

You're using a Sync on Luma RGB cable right? The OSD normally doesnt work (or shows up as black text) when the switch is off because the mux diodes are pulling the OSD RGB voltage down to nearly 0vpp (0vpp = black).

Looking at the datasheet it seems there's an internal RGB amplifier for OSD signals, this probably explains why your other post shows the OSD RGB input voltages as 0.05v.



In most jungle chips it's usually the typical 0.7vpp RGB, the same type that is output by consoles.
I'm afraid this wont be feasible without extensive modifications that go beyond a typical RGB mod.

[Doonyolyo]

Hi, I modded my KV-13M42 and I’m having some signal noise. I’m just not sure if it’s only the wire or if it could be the BNC connectors too.

There is a general purple noise with RGB turned on and nothing plugged into the TV. When I touch the Red BNC connector with my finger the noise on the TV turns red and increases in speed. Same for the other two colors respectively.

I know the wire must not be shielded well because the screen gets brighter if I hold it next to the flyback. I just don’t know about the BNC connectors.

Any help is appreciated.

https://imgur.com/a/A5BTLCj

[FunnyShang288]

Hi, I modded my KV-13M42 and I’m having some signal noise. I’m just not sure if it’s only the wire or if it could be the BNC connectors too.

There is a general purple noise with RGB turned on and nothing plugged into the TV. When I touch the Red BNC connector with my finger the noise on the TV turns red and increases in speed. Same for the other two colors respectively.

I know the wire must not be shielded well because the screen gets brighter if I hold it next to the flyback. I just don’t know about the BNC connectors.

Any help is appreciated.

https://imgur.com/a/A5BTLCj

I think at the very least you need to hook up the BNC ground tabs to the chassis ground or any ground point on the PCB.

[midorifox]

I have a Panasonic Omniart ctk-2780S

I found a post where someone had the same jungle but they said it was too dark.

I'm looking for the best way to mux it and the best place to connect everything. I'm not sure where to introduce the rgb and sync into the circuit. B is unused so I can directly connect to. R and G are used by the osd.

I was looking into rgb amps. Would inserting it somehow after the IC be better than before?

These are my two service manuals that I have:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VhJ2HW ... p=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VfBDrC ... p=drivesdk

This is the closest matching IC datasheet I can find:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VstsWp ... p=drivesdk

[csthomas2]

Hi everyone,

There is an amazing amount of content and useful information here in this forum and I want to thank everyone who contributes. I recently RGB modded a 20L1, first time performing a mod.
I followed Immerhax' guide (https://immerhax.com/?p=573) to perform the wiring specifications along with the wiring routing through the set. I'm getting wavy lines through the image, exactly like this reddit link here. https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... t/jzfwg3h/.

Most of my equipment has BNC connectors, so I opted to use those for the termination at the back. I followed Immerhax' diagram of terminating the RGB (individually) signal to ground via 75R (after my 75R BNC connector), then through 0.1uf to the wire going to the jungle IC. I used solid-core 26 AWG wire for the RGBS and blanking lines. CSYNC also comes in via BNC, but does not have any components between the BNC and wire that is soldered to the back of input 2. I realize that the BNC connectors offer characteristic impedance of 75R. I guess what I'm really asking is that does the jungle IC see the BNC connector in parallel with my termination resistor and is that causing an impedance mismatch and therefore causing reflections in my transmission line?

If this is all correct, then what else could be causing the noise in my image? The noise persists across devices so it must be something in my mod. Another thing I read for another set was an issue with blanking. I'm currently using a 1000R resistor connected to ground through a physical switch.

edit: I did some more testing and tried another vga>bnc cable on the mister and ruled out the RGB mod as the issue. I've made a sync combiner circuit addon to fix the RGBHV input issue on the GBS-Control and isolated the issue there. Not to get off topic, but I'm thinking I'll need to buffer the RGB lines rather than pass them through.

[fin12]

Hey all - a big thanks to those that contribute to this thread its been a huge help to get me to where i have with my first RGB mod for a guy with zero soldering experience - i am getting there by the looks as i slowly troubleshoot my way through it! feel like ive gone from zero to novice quite quick with the information.

Fortunate enough to have found a KV-XG29M30 Sony Trinitron (BG3R) in great condition and was looking great in composite so was primed for an RGB mod as unfortunately its one of the only large format sets that has composite only

I have managed to install the majority of the mod through a headerless teletext (CN307) port through R/G/B / BLK and GRND pins and get as far as a scrolling screen that i believe tells me its a syncing issue (CSYNC?) but im not sure what (or i dont understand) what would be causing it?

I thought perhaps its was my blanking switch but if i am seeing this signal do i assume that its working or do i perhaps need to regulate the voltage? The video i followed for a similar model mentions to ensure im on the right output but seems to be the same result on both.

I only have a genuine wii component cables to test with and are the only thing plugged in (into the new R/G/B RCAs i have installed) at present

(all my other consoles are SCART RGB for now that i use on a smaller PVM so ill need to source other cables if i can get this working!)

By the looks of the scrambled image picture (below) i would say the colors are looking correct so the mod otherwise has been a success?

Spoiler

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Osirus]

Hey all - a big thanks to those that contribute to this thread its been a huge help to get me to where i have with my first RGB mod for a guy with zero soldering experience - i am getting there by the looks as i slowly troubleshoot my way through it! feel like ive gone from zero to novice quite quick with the information.

Fortunate enough to have found a KV-XG29M30 Sony Trinitron (BG3R) in great condition and was looking great in composite so was primed for an RGB mod as unfortunately its one of the only large format sets that has composite only

I have managed to install the majority of the mod through a headerless teletext (CN307) port through R/G/B / BLK and GRND pins and get as far as a scrolling screen that i believe tells me its a syncing issue (CSYNC?) but im not sure what (or i dont understand) what would be causing it?

I thought perhaps its was my blanking switch but if i am seeing this signal do i assume that its working or do i perhaps need to regulate the voltage? The video i followed for a similar model mentions to ensure im on the right output but seems to be the same result on both.

I only have a genuine wii component cables to test with and are the only thing plugged in (into the new R/G/B RCAs i have installed) at present

(all my other consoles are SCART RGB for now that i use on a smaller PVM so ill need to source other cables if i can get this working!)

By the looks of the scrambled image picture (below) i would say the colors are looking correct so the mod otherwise has been a success?

Spoiler

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Are you connecting sync anywhere?

[MinorProblems]

Hello!
I'm very new to this, and have been interested in RGB modding a consumer grade TV (Phillips 20pt138a) Heres my research so far:

Here's the schematic for the chassis of my model: https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... ad.html#dl

This is the pin guide for the jgl chip: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... A8361.html

This is the pin guide for the microcontroller: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 3C055.html

I also found an old thread where somebody modded the exact same tv as mine, tho they did it for an arcade cab and I would prefer to mod mine for switchless scart if possible: http://scarthunter.blogspot.com/2015/

I have been researching how the mod works etc but I'm mainly stuck on how the mode changes based on the individual tv and what resistor values are needed etc. I believe I have identified the RGB and blanking line inputs on the jgl chip but I'm unsure where they are on the microcontroller.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1488731403

Any help on this little project would be hugely appreciated as I'm feeling pretty stuck right now

[JustynAye]

Hello Everyone,

I need some help from any RGB gurus that regular this board.

I have this super fancy Sony CRT that I'd like to give the RGB treatment. I'm having issues wrapping my head around how to go about it though. I haven't found any information on anyone completing or attempting an RGB mod on an FN Chassis.

The TV is a KV-32XBR96S which uses the common CXA1465AS jungle. I'd like to RGB mod this TV using the Closed Captioning board since it has 5v, RGB, and Ys. However, all other CXA1465AS chipped Trinitrons that have been modded using this method the CC board directly feeds into the Jungle.

The RGB signal in this model goes from the S Board (CC) > A Board > E2 board > E1 (jungle)
On the E2 Board I think the signal is mixed with the signal from the PIP board.

Is it possible to mod this TV through the Closed Captioning board considering how much additional processing the RGB signal goes through before hitting the jungle?

Service Manual: https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf4/90/89 ... 08634a8db2

[Gonflabbles]

I've got this swanky 20in JVC TV I'm looking to RGB mod it, via mux method.

I'm trying to understand the diagram of the mux mod. And I've looked at the service manual for my chip, and have determined that it is analog RGB.
So I dug into this a little bit more

There's hope for RGB.

This jungle IC has both analog and digital RGB signals. In most cases the I2C header is set for digital, and only reprogramming by custom chip with code changing can resolve this.

But, on my datasheet for the jungle chip, it's actually programmed for analog! What luck!!!

I have confirmed this by looking at the service manual and found that there are voltage divider resistors on the RGB out pins.

I also forced 5v onto the blanking pin of the jungle and saw the whole screen go black.

If that were to go white, or green, or any other solid color, it would be set for digital RGB.

So, I look like I'm lucky.

Here's a screenshot of what my SVC manual has for pinouts of the jungle for RGB in and out.

I'm still trying to grasp my head around the mux mod.

It looks like all I have to do is remove the voltage divider resistors on the RGB out pins? Then just tap RGB input lines off the 2.2k resistors for the RGB in pins?

https://imgur.com/a/o8VTHWa


If anyone or markOZAD could give me a diagram of what I'd need to do I'd appreciate the help!

I get the context of the mod. And I can read diagrams, but I'm just confused on what resistors I take out, and where do I place ones that I need?

[tongshadow]

Hello!
I'm very new to this, and have been interested in RGB modding a consumer grade TV (Phillips 20pt138a) Heres my research so far:

Here's the schematic for the chassis of my model: https://elektrotanya.com/philips_chassi ... ad.html#dl

This is the pin guide for the jgl chip: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... A8361.html

This is the pin guide for the microcontroller: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... 3C055.html

I also found an old thread where somebody modded the exact same tv as mine, tho they did it for an arcade cab and I would prefer to mod mine for switchless scart if possible: http://scarthunter.blogspot.com/2015/

I have been researching how the mod works etc but I'm mainly stuck on how the mode changes based on the individual tv and what resistor values are needed etc. I believe I have identified the RGB and blanking line inputs on the jgl chip but I'm unsure where they are on the microcontroller.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... 1488731403

Any help on this little project would be hugely appreciated as I'm feeling pretty stuck right now

These Philips TDA ICs are easy to mod, hardest part is setting up a voltage divider for the blanking circuit. Try doing what I did on my post, the IC is similar enough:
viewtopic.php?p=1501063&hilit=philips#p1501063

[geckotdf]

Hi!

I have a question, Looking at the excel file say for a stock resistor of 1000 ohms need to put a 120 ohms inline.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CXRu4B ... sFuHE/view

But looking at this image in the signature of MarkOZLAD say it's 160.
https://klovimg.com/images/2019/02/07/O ... -Table.jpg

I make the mod of a Sanyo TV, add the Diodes after the stock resistances, remove the ground resistances from the OSD chip, and left the original 100nf capacitors in the RGB IN on the Jungle IC.
Solder the external RGB input before the capacitors and after the diodes.
The RGB input I put the 75 ohms ground termination and add the calculated resistor. The RGB Signal comes from a 15 Khz PC.
Everything works fine, no interference, the OSD still works, and if you don't put the blanking voltage, you see the image behind the OSD, so works as expected.

I just adjust the sub-brightness level because in darker areas was too much "dark" and no grays in some way to say.

Another question it's I just for testing jump the external RGB inline resistor, like if I send the signal directly and nothing change in the screen or the intensity of the colours, that's normal?

Thanks!

[fin12]

Hey all - a big thanks to those that contribute to this thread its been a huge help to get me to where i have with my first RGB mod for a guy with zero soldering experience - i am getting there by the looks as i slowly troubleshoot my way through it! feel like ive gone from zero to novice quite quick with the information.

Fortunate enough to have found a KV-XG29M30 Sony Trinitron (BG3R) in great condition and was looking great in composite so was primed for an RGB mod as unfortunately its one of the only large format sets that has composite only

I have managed to install the majority of the mod through a headerless teletext (CN307) port through R/G/B / BLK and GRND pins and get as far as a scrolling screen that i believe tells me its a syncing issue (CSYNC?) but im not sure what (or i dont understand) what would be causing it?

I thought perhaps its was my blanking switch but if i am seeing this signal do i assume that its working or do i perhaps need to regulate the voltage? The video i followed for a similar model mentions to ensure im on the right output but seems to be the same result on both.

I only have a genuine wii component cables to test with and are the only thing plugged in (into the new R/G/B RCAs i have installed) at present

(all my other consoles are SCART RGB for now that i use on a smaller PVM so ill need to source other cables if i can get this working!)

By the looks of the scrambled image picture (below) i would say the colors are looking correct so the mod otherwise has been a success?

Spoiler

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So i am back trying to continue the mod on this CRT (this time with the right set of RGB Cables to actually get composite sync out lol)

For the most part i think i am on the right track and have located the 5V resistor on the underside of the board (IC604) for the blanking

(i have found this post as a reference that helped me locate the regulator and the schematics for my CRT: viewtopic.php?t=60130 - and the service manual i found here: https://www.manualslib.com/download/832 ... 29m30.html)

Spoiler

Am i taking off the right output here and can i take this straight to the blanking on CN307?. i originally planned on using a switch but honestly id be happy to just get RGB working and thats it at this point. I have read however i might need to reduce the voltage. Reading that previous post it appears MarkOZLAD ran into issues with it heating up / smell which i would arguably want to avoid as a newbie!

EDIT: SUCCESS!! After to checking the schematics a few more times i went with my gut and figured out what needed to be done and it appears to all be working!

I am however getting some washed out colors (the OSD and blue screen when no signal is detected in particular) and my quality seems to very on consoles i have trialed

For instance my SNES console(s) all have horizontal offset issues (and im realising now just how painful a PAL SNES with black bars are on a consumer CRT ) however using the same multi-out to RGB cables on my NTSC RGB Modded N64 arguably produces the best results and fills the screen with reasonable color!

Any ideas on what i can do to manage this? Overall pretty happy with the results. This thread was a great help so thanks to everyone who contributes

Some pics for whoevers interested:

Spoiler

^ Super Famicom - Fullscreen but horizontal Shift (right of screen)


^ NTSC RGB N64 - relatively clean and fullscreen picture


^ SNES PAL 1chip - clean but issues with text / horizontal shift (right of screen)


^ SNES PAL 1chip - clean but issues with horizontal shift (right of screen)

[Deep_wolf]

Hey there guys, another average RGB student here. I've got myself some funky TV from early 80s that would be cool to have RGB in.

It's a JVC 7255EE, no service manual, no service menu, RF only, gray tube, pretty hardcore.
There are almost no info on it, lucky me, there are schematics of the board: https://elektrotanya.com/jvc_7255ee.pdf/download.html
There are supposed site for a service manual behind a paywall, but I can't get thru due to paypal being suspended in my country.
I've managed to locate two chips that I need: IC201 TA7698AP and IC371 M51397AP.
First one I assume is Jungle chip and the other one is OSD one.

By reading bunch of posts and listening to some YouTube videos I've managed to comprehend the RGB idea, but not 100%. Since it's an older model, I'm not so sure if it's possible to mod. If anyone can steer me in the right direction , I'll be happy to listen.

[dcrt.86]

I recently found this Philips Magnavox Model TP2780 C102 Chassis 27Z500-7563 on the curb and I’m looking to make it my first rgb mod. I’ve been looking online for most of the day for a service manual to see the wiring and chip breakdowns but I’m coming up short. Anyone have a manual or some pointers for this line of TVs?

[titan91]

Does anyone know if an NTSC Wii console will output RGB without having to result to a PAL system menu? Maybe using USB Loader GX? If so, does that require the use of custom loaders that force the PAL60 mode ? I realize this isn't a Wii related thread but I came across a very basic Funai made/Sylvania branded VCR combo TV. Unfortunately from looking at service manuals of similar sets, the combination microcontroller/jungle IC does not support s-video Y/C inputs and does not expose an RGB input. But, I have seen some people do neck board RGB mods.

I realize this is an uncommon approach, and this type of mod will have different results between different video sources and drives/cutoffs will need adjusting. There is also over 100 volts on the collector sides of the transistors I need to be fully aware of, along with the need to 75Ω terminate each line and put it in series with 0.1μf caps. So I had the idea of buying a junk Wii off eBay with broken DVD drive and installing it internally, in place of the VCR and 3D print a housing for the controller ports, buttons, and SD card. But, before I even seriously consider that I need to know if an NTSC Wii can output 525 line 60Hz RGB. I can then simultaneously use the composite or luma output of the Wii for sync.

I'm also aware that I would need to a use scope to verify the expected level for the base of each neck board drive transistor. If the level is high, like 1vpp, then a series resistor or voltage divider is needed. If it's low and needs a positive DC offset to bias the guns, then I assume I would need to mix in a DC voltage source and reduce that mixed voltage back down.

I understand this is a bit ambitious, but otherwise it's a set with a basic composite input and doing something like this would give me a reason to keep it. I don't intend on watching VHS tapes on it, I have other VCRs and software decoding tools already for the format.

[titan91]

Did some reading, nowadays USB Loader GX enables PAL60 mode for any game. Looks like I will definitely need to amplify the 0.7vpp RGB lines going to the neck board. Fortunately there is a common VGA to arcade monitor VGA amp that is designed for this:

"This is a standalone video amplifier which converts the 1 Volt output from a VGA card into 4 Volts required by most arcade monitors."

https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and ... amplifier/

Here is what I found in other threads:

"build an amplifier to boost your 0.7 v signal to the typical 2-3 v on neckboards, it would also need to be flexible enough on each chanel in order to tune the bias to what the neckboard is expecting, which can vary a lot from set to set. Also if you are intending to use the video signal generated by some console instead of the dc coupled video from a computer or another standard vga device, you would need to add a circuit to your amplifier in order to keep the black level stable and not jumping around depending on the brightness of the screen"

I'm hoping the last part won't be an issue. For a safety circuit, maybe 200v caps is series to prevent DC backflow if one of the gun transistors fails and shorts internally? Also for DC isolation. 4vpp is probably going to be too high, so a voltage divider here could come in handy.

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... _a_jungle/

"As someone who has done a neckboard mod, it's not impossible, but just be aware of the drawbacks. Start with a 1k resistor on each of the RGB lines, and stand by on the power switch the second you power on in case it's too high a voltage so you can cut it off immediately. Adjust higher if it's too bright, lower if it's too dark. Once you get something that's roughly comparable in brightness to the original image you will need to tweak out the gain and bias on each RGB drive and the screen adjustment on the flyback."

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... ooold_crt/

[Deep_wolf]

Did some reading, nowadays USB Loader GX enables PAL60 mode for any game.

PAL colours gaming with progressive scan at 60hz... Sounds like a dream.

[titan91]

Did some reading, nowadays USB Loader GX enables PAL60 mode for any game.

PAL colours gaming with progressive scan at 60hz... Sounds like a dream.

Yep, delicious 240p RGB.

[raftman97]

first time posting here.

looking for another trinitron to rgb mod. i modded my KV-27xbr10 and its a beautiful set but i want to find another. does anyone have any service manuals or info on a 30P chassis for KV-2654R. its a nice looking set but only want to get it if i can rgb mod it.

thank you for any help

[titan91]

I may be in some luck. I checked a couple service manuals for Funai made TVs and the two sets I looked at, a 14" and a 27", use neck board drive transistors with a 1v base-emitter saturation voltage. If I understand correctly, then a 0.7vpp RGB input signal from a Wii or other console should work fine? Notwithstanding a potential floating DC offset.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Gvx8RPK-lA

Dave on the 12voltvids YouTube channel examined the main board on one of these. Unfortunately it seems the identifying part numbers on IC201 and other ICs was removed during assembly. Once I pick up my Sylvania set I'll check it directly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4OSlRaVH3g

[titan91]

The main IC is masked on my Sylvania Funai so no part numbers are visible. But I did come across this one:

Spoiler

It's a Funai chip with no results when searching the part number. It's right under the VCR, so I assume it's for the VCR functionality. The main jungle IC is at the rear to the board near the video inputs.

So I checked out the neck board. Like other sets, it does use these smaller Toshiba NPN transistors for the guns. They are C2482s. We can see Q503 here.

Spoiler

According to the datasheet the base to emitter saturation voltage is 1 volt, like some of the other Funai service manuals I've seen. And the saturation curve is linear, as expected for video applications where linear drive ramps are needed.

Spoiler

Spoiler

Here's the neck board, the best angles I could get:

Spoiler

Spoiler

Spoiler

The 180v drive rail hits a 1.5k resistor before going into each collector. I haven't 100% traced out the bases yet. Here is a perspective corrected composite of both sides of the neck board:

Spoiler

[titan91]

Going back to this RCA TruFlat I have, here are some photos of the chassis:

Spoiler

And photos of this audio processor daughterboard and jungle IC:

Spoiler

This one's looking good. Actually, either RGB or component should be possible via a fast blanking input on pin 45.





According to the datasheet we pull pin 45 high to 0.7V for component (YUV) and low for RGB. There is something right next to pin 45, and a set of 3 capacitors and 100Ω resistors in series near pins 46-48. I haven't confirmed the trace layout yet, I will need to pull the chassis board and check it out. Marking the photo with theoretical trace paths.



I initially had the idea to split off the Y s-video pin to use with component, but that's clearly a separate pin on the jungle chip. Looks like it will need its own line. What would be awesome is if can simply add a switch for YUV/RGB mode.

[titan91]

For anyone with an RCA TruFlat, I buzzed out some traces and confirmed pins 46-48 go to header XS101.

Pin 1: Ground
Pin 2: B/Pb
Pin 3: R/Pr
Pin 4: G/Y

By default there is a connector from this TV's built-in DVD player. Since pin 45 is connected, it looks like the set is factory configured for component on that header. Component is much more probable from a DVD player in the US vs. RGB.

Spoiler

[titan91]

I suppose I could mod the DVD player for composite or s-video, lol. Even optical audio out! The component output can also double as RGB but I'm sure that's set in firmware.

Spoiler

Edit: I settled on just adding a 6 pole toggle switch for component plus audio. One side would go to the DVD player and the other side to the jacks. Due to the limitations of how the microcontroller switches between inputs, as operating the DVD player would cause the set to switch back to component anyway. I'm thinking just leaving the DVD player at the default stop screen and throwing the switch. Assuming the TV doesn't time out and switch back to something else when the player is idle.

[requiem11]

I’m trying to do RGB mod on my PVM 14L1 but trying to use BNC instead of scart. I need help on where to tap 5v for blanking on the A board. I will really appreciate any help. Thanks

Service manual
https://ia804508.us.archive.org/0/items ... 0FIXED.pdf

[vol.2]

I’m trying to do RGB mod on my PVM 14L1 but trying to use BNC instead of scart. I need help on where to tap 5v for blanking on the A board. I will really appreciate any help. Thanks

Service manual https://ia804708.us.archive.org/34/item ... vm14l2.pdf

My first thought would be to trace the 20L2 and figure out where it's taking it from and just see if you can replicate that. It shares the same service manual

[requiem11]

I’m trying to do RGB mod on my PVM 14L1 but trying to use BNC instead of scart. I need help on where to tap 5v for blanking on the A board. I will really appreciate any help. Thanks

Service manual https://ia804708.us.archive.org/34/item ... vm14l2.pdf

My first thought would be to trace the 20L2 and figure out where it's taking it from and just see if you can replicate that. It shares the same service manual

I mistakenly linked service manual for 14L2 instead of 14L1 above.

[titan91]

Here's a way to clean and test a built-in DVD player.

Spoiler