Here you go:ldeveraux wrote:Who's that? Is there a link?H6rdc0re wrote: Fidde SE made me a special Scart cable with a switch. Works absolutely fantastic.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-RGB-Cabl ... xyaRZR2X4C
Here you go:ldeveraux wrote:Who's that? Is there a link?H6rdc0re wrote: Fidde SE made me a special Scart cable with a switch. Works absolutely fantastic.
Bump. Can anyone help me out? All of this is very confusing for me so I’d really appreciate if any experts could clarify. Do I need my cable re-wired for TTL?moltomolto wrote:These are the sync specs:
Sync
Input type RGBHV, RGBS, RGsB, RsGsBs
Output type RGBHV, RGBS, RGsB
Input level 2 V to 5.5 Vp-p with ±0.2 VDC offset max.
Output level TTL: 4V to 5V p-p, unterminated
Input impedance 510 ohms
Output impedance 75 ohms
Max. propagation delay 85 ns
Max. rise/fall time 2 ns
Polarity RGBHV: tracks polarity (or force negative sync via internal jumper)
RGBS, RGsB: negative
How exactly should my cable be wired based on this?
Please don't tell me you didn't know what you're purchasing.ldeveraux wrote: As an aside, I also didn't realize there were no LED to indicate which port was active, which the Bandridge has. Also no way to manually select port, also available on the other unit. I hate to say it, but with no difference in sync time, and limited quality bump, I feel like the Bandridge has the leg up...
I'm sorry I can't help you much with Extron. Maybe somebody with a similar setup can chime in.moltomolto wrote: Bump. Can anyone help me out? All of this is very confusing for me so I’d really appreciate if any experts could clarify. Do I need my cable re-wired for TTL?
I have the TGCD dock, so I can't use that.H6rdc0re wrote:Here you go:ldeveraux wrote:Who's that? Is there a link?H6rdc0re wrote: Fidde SE made me a special Scart cable with a switch. Works absolutely fantastic.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-RGB-Cabl ... xyaRZR2X4C
I'm not blaming you dude, I just can't visibly see the difference in switch picture quality, and I don't think it switches any quicker. I've never owned one of your switches before, I foolishly assumed it would have the bells and whistles compared to a Bandridge that's ~1/3 the price. Everyone here says they are the best but I just don't see it. My bad for not looking close enough at what I was getting, but that's my opinion.superg wrote:Please don't tell me you didn't know what you're purchasing.ldeveraux wrote: As an aside, I also didn't realize there were no LED to indicate which port was active, which the Bandridge has. Also no way to manually select port, also available on the other unit. I hate to say it, but with no difference in sync time, and limited quality bump, I feel like the Bandridge has the leg up...
Signal quality is the most important thing. I can hardly come up with a setup where I would want to know the active port number. BTW both active port number and manual port selection can be implemented easily using EXT connector. But guess what - nobody wants it.
Take it easy, I will accept a return from you if you want. PM me.ldeveraux wrote: I'm not blaming you dude, I just can't visibly see the difference in switch picture quality, and I don't think it switches any quicker. I've never owned one of your switches before, I foolishly assumed it would have the bells and whistles compared to a Bandridge that's ~1/3 the price. Everyone here says they are the best but I just don't see it. My bad for not looking close enough at what I was getting, but that's my opinion.
If manual selection and port indicator can be done easily (cheaply too?) then for that price I would have done it. Or at least tell me how I can do it? If I'm troubleshooting a console or my system as a whole, it's extremely helpful to know which console is where, and whether it's giving signal. Yeah, your LED will provide some of that, but it's just another complication to see if the switch is working properly.
There was that dude a year ago who was berating you about being late, changing your schematics, charging more money, etc, and I defended you despite never using your products. I didn't think that with all the recommendations here it would be lacking in any way for other switches. But I also know how you are about returns, so now I'm stuck with them.
I think most people would have to agree with superg on this aspectldeveraux wrote: I'm not blaming you dude, I just can't visibly see the difference in switch picture quality, and I don't think it switches any quicker. I've never owned one of your switches before, I foolishly assumed it would have the bells and whistles compared to a Bandridge that's ~1/3 the price. Everyone here says they are the best but I just don't see it. My bad for not looking close enough at what I was getting, but that's my opinion.
The store page for the switch describes what it does. It seems like you for reasons unfathomable assumed it would do things that nobody ever said it would (like switching "quicker" ...?!?! which is just a confusing metric i don't understand the point of) and are upset that it didn't meet these expectations.superg wrote: Please don't tell me you didn't know what you're purchasing.
that is objectively false. There was a question about this on the previous page that he responded to a few times, so I have to assume he is being hyperbolic here.superg wrote: BTW both active port number and manual port selection can be implemented easily using EXT connector. But guess what - nobody wants it.
There are several orders which were made this Friday and Weekend, I will print labels today and drop it off tomorrow.KakoC11 wrote:Hey Superg, was just wondering if my order has been shipped? placed it on May 18. can PM you the details.
Thanks
Bump. Any help here would be appreciated.kres24GT wrote:So I finally got around to plugging my in today and the slot the USB adapter plugs into snapped off. How can I fix?
Please post a picture of the damage. "snapped off" might be irreparable or it might be a 2.2 second resoldering job.kres24GT wrote:Bump. Any help here would be appreciated.kres24GT wrote:So I finally got around to plugging my in today and the slot the USB adapter plugs into snapped off. How can I fix?
Links to photos:the Goat wrote:Please post a picture of the damage. "snapped off" might be irreparable or it might be a 2.2 second resoldering job.kres24GT wrote:Bump. Any help here would be appreciated.kres24GT wrote:So I finally got around to plugging my in today and the slot the USB adapter plugs into snapped off. How can I fix?
Uh, it seems I cannot view your pictures without creating a dropbox account
I changed the links.the Goat wrote:Uh, it seems I cannot view your pictures without creating a dropbox account
Thanks.kres24GT wrote:I changed the links.the Goat wrote:Uh, it seems I cannot view your pictures without creating a dropbox account
MicroUSB is available only in surface mount package thus it's less sturdy than barrel power connector (on the previous versions). If you aren't careful enough you can break it and rip off 1-4 mounting traces and possible other. A good thing about it is that it's repairable.kres24GT wrote:Bump. Any help here would be appreciated.kres24GT wrote:So I finally got around to plugging my in today and the slot the USB adapter plugs into snapped off. How can I fix?
Mini USB is supposed to be sturdier. Is it more expensive than Micro USB or something?superg wrote:MicroUSB is available only in surface mount package thus it's less sturdy than barrel power connector (on the previous versions). If you aren't careful enough you can break it and rip off 1-4 mounting traces and possible other. A good thing about it is that it's repairable.kres24GT wrote:Bump. Any help here would be appreciated.kres24GT wrote:So I finally got around to plugging my in today and the slot the USB adapter plugs into snapped off. How can I fix?
It is getting harder to find power supplies with micro USB termination and it is also much uglier.nmalinoski wrote:Mini USB is supposed to be sturdier. Is it more expensive than Micro USB or something?
What's wrong with bundling a power supply with a USB A port and a USB A to Mini USB cable?the Goat wrote:It is getting harder to find power supplies with micro USB termination and it is also much uglier.nmalinoski wrote:Mini USB is supposed to be sturdier. Is it more expensive than Micro USB or something?
Barrel connector is the most durable and through hole, never was an issue but a lot of people requested USB and at the time I thought about it MicroUSB was the latest.nmalinoski wrote: And what do looks have to do with anything? I'd rather have something that's both functional and durable than fragile and "pretty".
Hello superg i recently bought the gcompsw, but PayPal use the wrong address and for some reason i can't PM you. I did send you a email to the store with the address correction and PayPal transaction.superg wrote:Barrel connector is the most durable and through hole, never was an issue but a lot of people requested USB and at the time I thought about it MicroUSB was the latest.nmalinoski wrote: And what do looks have to do with anything? I'd rather have something that's both functional and durable than fragile and "pretty".
(I don't plan to change anything )
While I agree that barrel connectors are even more durable, using USB for power means that you only get 5V, unless your device is smart enough to negotiate for more. There's so much variability in voltage with barrel connectors that, if you're careless, you can plug in the wrong barrel connector and blow/pop something, which has been seen several times over the years with the OSSC.superg wrote:Barrel connector is the most durable and through hole, never was an issue but a lot of people requested USB and at the time I thought about it MicroUSB was the latest.nmalinoski wrote: And what do looks have to do with anything? I'd rather have something that's both functional and durable than fragile and "pretty".
(I don't plan to change anything )
Everything is soldered right in this case, people usually tear it with grounding pads.ErebusMaligan wrote:It's definitely fixable, I had the exact same issue with the usb port on my MIST system at one point, but on that one the side points weren't soldered well to begin with, so I think that's why it came off. Some flux and a few seconds with a soldering iron can fix it up.
Maybe the design could be strengthened in some way by adding additional grounding pads to the side and soldering some kind of thick wire or bracket across the top of the connector to hold it on better?
Barring that it could always be hot glued or epoxied in place by anyone worried about it i suppose.
I responded to your store email.ifury512 wrote: Hello superg i recently bought the gcompsw, but PayPal use the wrong address and for some reason i can't PM you. I did send you a email to the store with the address correction and PayPal transaction.
Its a lot less common but if it helps there are a few micro USB port designs which have DIP mounting points, for example:-superg wrote:MicroUSB is available only in surface mount package thus it's less sturdy than barrel power connector (on the previous versions). If you aren't careful enough you can break it and rip off 1-4 mounting traces and possible other. A good thing about it is that it's repairable.kres24GT wrote:Bump. Any help here would be appreciated.kres24GT wrote:So I finally got around to plugging my in today and the slot the USB adapter plugs into snapped off. How can I fix?
I'm not so sure about the connectors which aren't sourced by digikey / mouser. It might work but I don't want to end up with broken batch to fix.Link83 wrote: Its a lot less common but if it helps there are a few micro USB port designs which have DIP mounting points, for example:-
https://milescn.en.made-in-china.com/pr ... e-DIP.html
I realise you switched from 12V to 5V with the latest gscartsw/gcompsw models so decided to switch to micro USB (which makes perfect sense) but if you did ever want to consider another barrel connector an alternative is the EIAJ-02 plug (4.00mm/1.7mm) which is used for PSP's and the XRGB-Mini. Its typically only used for 5V so less chance of accidents, and there are USB to EIAJ-02 cables readily available which are perfect for use with USB power supplies which have USB type A ports.