NESRGB board available now
Re: NESRGB board available now
Truth is, emulation of expanded audio just sucks. It sucks on the everdrive, on the powerpak, and glitchy on the Hidef NES. So before you go adding exp audio support, you gotta consider how you plan on playing games that support EXP audio on your NES.
For me, I only play originals (yes, I own original Gimmick, Lagrange Point, Just Breed and a lot of FDS carts). So I build my EXP support for that. On the other hand, if all you're going to do is play EverDrive, then you'll need to use different value resistors.
For me, I only play originals (yes, I own original Gimmick, Lagrange Point, Just Breed and a lot of FDS carts). So I build my EXP support for that. On the other hand, if all you're going to do is play EverDrive, then you'll need to use different value resistors.
Re: NESRGB board available now
I should've mentioned the only expansion audio game I'd be playing is a real akumajo densetsu cart.
Re: NESRGB board available now
Adding expanded audio on top loader is different than front loader NES. EXP6 is where you want to tap into but top loader doesn't have EXP6, so most people jump EXP6 to EXP9 and use that.
Let's assume you want expanded audio from real carts on front loader. All you do is install 4.7k resistor in the exp audio port input on NESRGB (hole next to J5) and then run wire from there to pin 9 of the expansion port. You can use multimeter to confirm you got pin 9 as it is equivalent to pin 54 of the 72 pin connector.
Let's assume you want expanded audio from real carts on front loader. All you do is install 4.7k resistor in the exp audio port input on NESRGB (hole next to J5) and then run wire from there to pin 9 of the expansion port. You can use multimeter to confirm you got pin 9 as it is equivalent to pin 54 of the 72 pin connector.
Re: NESRGB board available now
Hey thanks for the info! Yeah I'll be using a front loader. I'm pretty sure this is the way I did it last time but it's been a few years. I do remember that when I tried wiring expansion audio to the NESRGB mixing circuit I got really bad noise whenever I played a game on the everdrive, so I ended up just using the stock NES audio out for expansion audio carts.
Re: NESRGB board available now
Anyone here having graphical glitchs with Trojan PAL on NTSC systems?
At the beginning, the upper part of the buildings just glitchs.
I tested with Everdrive and the regular cartridge, same problem. I don't remember to see this behavior on a unmodded NES or a NES with NESRGB and the default firmware (regular color pallets)
At the beginning, the upper part of the buildings just glitchs.
I tested with Everdrive and the regular cartridge, same problem. I don't remember to see this behavior on a unmodded NES or a NES with NESRGB and the default firmware (regular color pallets)
Last edited by Ripthorn on Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: NESRGB board available now
47k or 4.7k? Or is the same thing?leonk wrote:Adding expanded audio on top loader is different than front loader NES. EXP6 is where you want to tap into but top loader doesn't have EXP6, so most people jump EXP6 to EXP9 and use that.
Let's assume you want expanded audio from real carts on front loader. All you do is install 4.7k resistor in the exp audio port input on NESRGB (hole next to J5) and then run wire from there to pin 9 of the expansion port. You can use multimeter to confirm you got pin 9 as it is equivalent to pin 54 of the 72 pin connector.
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Re: NESRGB board available now
typo. 47k ohm resistor is correct.
Re: NESRGB board available now
Anyone have any experience getting an NESRGB IGR 'borti board' to work with an original Famicom? My install absolutely refuses to let the system boot up, except for the one instance it did, but cycled through all the palettes one after another. Reset button combo did not work at all. Removing the IGR restored the system & NESRGB functionality.
Re: NESRGB board available now
It's working flawlessly for me.Bratwurst wrote:Anyone have any experience getting an NESRGB IGR 'borti board' to work with an original Famicom? My install absolutely refuses to let the system boot up, except for the one instance it did, but cycled through all the palettes one after another. Reset button combo did not work at all. Removing the IGR restored the system & NESRGB functionality.
Could you take some pics of your installation?
Maybe there's something wrong with that.
Re: NESRGB board available now
I couldn't find any instance of it done with an original Famicom so I'm glad to hear someone has it working. I've gotten others working on the AV Famicom and Top Loader before so I'm puzzled. No picture of it installed since it's out at the moment but I'll give it another go soon and will take pictures then. Here is more info though:
Latch/clock/data were confirmed to be wired correctly,
Reset jumper set to low,
Voltage tapped into ground, +5 and 3.3 on the NESRGB board
Track for PPU 22 on the NESRGB adapter board cut and rerouted to CPU 3
When I disconnected latch/clock/data and even the reset lines, but left power running to the IGR board, it still prevented the system from running.
Latch/clock/data were confirmed to be wired correctly,
Reset jumper set to low,
Voltage tapped into ground, +5 and 3.3 on the NESRGB board
Track for PPU 22 on the NESRGB adapter board cut and rerouted to CPU 3
When I disconnected latch/clock/data and even the reset lines, but left power running to the IGR board, it still prevented the system from running.
Re: NESRGB board available now
I don't understand this. Could you provide a sketch or a picture?Bratwurst wrote: Track for PPU 22 on the NESRGB adapter board cut and rerouted to CPU 3
Re: NESRGB board available now
PPU pin 22 is normally connected to VCC instead of reset, I've just interrupted the connection between the NESRGB and Famicom motherboard as mentioned here:
https://assemblergames.com/threads/inga ... ost-856947
Same deal as the AV Famicom, so both PPU and CPU reset simultaneously.
EDIT: Is it possible I should go with the 'risky version' firmware instead?
https://assemblergames.com/threads/inga ... ost-856947
Same deal as the AV Famicom, so both PPU and CPU reset simultaneously.
EDIT: Is it possible I should go with the 'risky version' firmware instead?
Re: NESRGB board available now
I've installed the IGR mod in my top loader NESRGB when it first came out. It worked great as both IGR as well as changing palettes from the controller.
I did notice though that there were a few older famicom games (wish I wrote does which ones they were) that simply did not boot on the system until I pressed the reset button. It was just garbled up. Testing the same game on an NESRGB modded system with no IGR resulted in the game working correctly.
I eventually just removed the IGR board and the games started working fine. Maybe something about timing was off .. who knows.
WOW - POST #1000 ...
I did notice though that there were a few older famicom games (wish I wrote does which ones they were) that simply did not boot on the system until I pressed the reset button. It was just garbled up. Testing the same game on an NESRGB modded system with no IGR resulted in the game working correctly.
I eventually just removed the IGR board and the games started working fine. Maybe something about timing was off .. who knows.
WOW - POST #1000 ...
Re: NESRGB board available now
is the nesrgb board supposed to get hot? the area near the palette switch gets too hot to touch (burned myself) after turning the nes on for a couple seconds. im getting no sound or picture from my nes currently (previously got grey static).
edit: cleaned some points and im back to grey static and no searing hot nesrgb board. throwing in the ua6528 ppu gives me a black screen.
the ppu in this nes was giving me black and white color onky before the mod. this would be why i decided to get a ua6528. this is the picture i get through rgb.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/wrGWO7a.jpg)
this is what i get through composite
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/LHBoQYu.jpg)
i get no signal and no detection through ossc with the ua6528 ppu. Has anyone seen this before?
edit: took out nesrgb and stuck the original ppu straight into the board - no signal
put the clone ppu straight into the board - same type of static.
I think its safe to say this board is broken in some way or another. i would specifically guess that the cpu went since i get no sound and not even garbled graphics.
edit: cleaned some points and im back to grey static and no searing hot nesrgb board. throwing in the ua6528 ppu gives me a black screen.
the ppu in this nes was giving me black and white color onky before the mod. this would be why i decided to get a ua6528. this is the picture i get through rgb.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/wrGWO7a.jpg)
this is what i get through composite
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/LHBoQYu.jpg)
i get no signal and no detection through ossc with the ua6528 ppu. Has anyone seen this before?
edit: took out nesrgb and stuck the original ppu straight into the board - no signal
put the clone ppu straight into the board - same type of static.
I think its safe to say this board is broken in some way or another. i would specifically guess that the cpu went since i get no sound and not even garbled graphics.
Re: NESRGB board available now
Well, I finally found my power issue after thinking initially it was a rectifier issue. When I removed the RF/power block from the board, something went wrong and there ended up being a short on the right most trace below. Also, after removing the power block for the 4th time I've pulled the middle ground trace off the board (its still attached though.) Anyone know why I would get that short??
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/P0rw2DG.jpg)
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/P0rw2DG.jpg)
Re: NESRGB board available now
WOW. That's pretty destructive.
Anything can cause a short; a cut leg from resistor you didn't see, a little solder ball, etc.
Anything can cause a short; a cut leg from resistor you didn't see, a little solder ball, etc.
Re: NESRGB board available now
I've found the easiest way to remove the power module is by using the method demonstrated on console5's wiki:choobsx wrote:Well, I finally found my power issue after thinking initially it was a rectifier issue. When I removed the RF/power block from the board, something went wrong and there ended up being a short on the right most trace below. Also, after removing the power block for the 4th time I've pulled the middle ground trace off the board (its still attached though.) Anyone know why I would get that short??
https://console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES- ... _RF_Module
Re: NESRGB board available now
That is a pretty great method! Thanks!unmaker wrote:
I've found the easiest way to remove the power module is by using the method demonstrated on console5's wiki:
https://console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES- ... _RF_Module
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- Joined: Wed Feb 14, 2018 2:07 pm
Re: NESRGB board available now
I'm having serious issues with streaks in the picture..
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/DVLdfEv.png)
Hard to get a good picture on a CRT, it's very noticeable IRL.
I checked the volt regulator on the nesrgb board and it has nice clear markings and different text than the fake one tim warned about.
The issue seems to be worse when using Csync than with sync on composite. I tried to put a 47uF cap as Tim suggests when you have a fake volt regulator,
it seemed to make it less pronounced but on more places on the screen. Without the cap it was very distinct but on less area of the screen.
I'm using the cable Tim sells along with the kit. No caps in cable. It's a frontloader so I'm using the 7805 Tim recommends on those as well as the original 7805 in the nes which has never been replaced.
I would love some assistance on this, struggled with this crap a couple of weeks now.
![Image](https://i.imgur.com/DVLdfEv.png)
Hard to get a good picture on a CRT, it's very noticeable IRL.
I checked the volt regulator on the nesrgb board and it has nice clear markings and different text than the fake one tim warned about.
The issue seems to be worse when using Csync than with sync on composite. I tried to put a 47uF cap as Tim suggests when you have a fake volt regulator,
it seemed to make it less pronounced but on more places on the screen. Without the cap it was very distinct but on less area of the screen.
I'm using the cable Tim sells along with the kit. No caps in cable. It's a frontloader so I'm using the 7805 Tim recommends on those as well as the original 7805 in the nes which has never been replaced.
I would love some assistance on this, struggled with this crap a couple of weeks now.
Last edited by steamedcrap on Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: NESRGB board available now
I tried this method and it worked great for my akumajo densetsu cart. Unfortunately one I put the everdrive in, there was a lot of noise and buzzing. I ended up using Tim's audio circuit with the 3 way switch and it's working great now. I'm not crazy about having to drill into my console just to have another switch but that's life.leonk wrote:Adding expanded audio on top loader is different than front loader NES. EXP6 is where you want to tap into but top loader doesn't have EXP6, so most people jump EXP6 to EXP9 and use that.
Let's assume you want expanded audio from real carts on front loader. All you do is install 4.7k resistor in the exp audio port input on NESRGB (hole next to J5) and then run wire from there to pin 9 of the expansion port. You can use multimeter to confirm you got pin 9 as it is equivalent to pin 54 of the 72 pin connector.
Re: NESRGB board available now
tbh I don’t think there is a perfect exp audio emulator out there. Everdrive and powerpak are usable, hi def NES is good. But only original carts are great.
Re: NESRGB board available now
Agreed. Unfortunately the everdrive was really noisy with normal games, and even on the menu screen before adding the switch to disable exp. audio.
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- Joined: Sat May 05, 2018 9:01 pm
Re: NESRGB board available now
Hey, does anyone have a full tutorial on how to do this that I could give to someone who is willing to do the mod. I want to output 8pin mini DIN (the one that comes with the kit). The one I found is kind of vague and I can't find any that describe just one of the methods (the one I want to do).
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Margatroid
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2018 7:22 am
Re: NESRGB board available now
Hey guys! First post on the forums, but I've been reading them for a long time. I love this place!
I just got an RGB-modded toaster this week, along with an Everdrive N8, and I finally got the whole setup working today with my framemeister. It's got a weird issue with sync though, and I'm wondering if anyone has any idea what it could be. The guy who modded it made the output for a Genesis 2 cable, and I'm using this one from retro_console_accessories: https://retro-access.com/collections/fr ... o-jailbars
The issue is, every time I turn on the NES and boot up the framemeister, I get no audio or video until I adjust the sync level. It has to be set to above 23 for anything to show up, but the weird thing is that even if it's set at 23 or above, I still have to go into the menu and adjust it every time I restart the framemeister. For some reason if I don't mess with the sync level it doesn't display any input from the NES. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that the Everdrive only works if the loader isn't in the "down" position? In any case, it seems to not recognize that it's getting a signal until it's "reminded."
Also, while trying out Metal Slader Glory I noticed some glitching, and I wondered if maybe this is a sign of bad capacitors or maybe sync issues:
https://youtu.be/7zPDpFeQPuY
Or maybe it's just an Everdrive issue of some kind? I'm pretty disappointed with this, since I was hoping to avoid this kind of thing by playing games on the real hardware. I guess it could be a bad ROM, maybe.
I would love to hear what you guys think this sync issue could be though. Thanks!
I just got an RGB-modded toaster this week, along with an Everdrive N8, and I finally got the whole setup working today with my framemeister. It's got a weird issue with sync though, and I'm wondering if anyone has any idea what it could be. The guy who modded it made the output for a Genesis 2 cable, and I'm using this one from retro_console_accessories: https://retro-access.com/collections/fr ... o-jailbars
The issue is, every time I turn on the NES and boot up the framemeister, I get no audio or video until I adjust the sync level. It has to be set to above 23 for anything to show up, but the weird thing is that even if it's set at 23 or above, I still have to go into the menu and adjust it every time I restart the framemeister. For some reason if I don't mess with the sync level it doesn't display any input from the NES. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that the Everdrive only works if the loader isn't in the "down" position? In any case, it seems to not recognize that it's getting a signal until it's "reminded."
Also, while trying out Metal Slader Glory I noticed some glitching, and I wondered if maybe this is a sign of bad capacitors or maybe sync issues:
https://youtu.be/7zPDpFeQPuY
Or maybe it's just an Everdrive issue of some kind? I'm pretty disappointed with this, since I was hoping to avoid this kind of thing by playing games on the real hardware. I guess it could be a bad ROM, maybe.
I would love to hear what you guys think this sync issue could be though. Thanks!
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Margatroid
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2018 7:22 am
Re: NESRGB board available now
edit: double posted
Last edited by Margatroid on Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: NESRGB board available now
hi there everybody! i have a cabling question.
i am just getting going on this mod after buying stuff a couple years ago. i have the mod kit and i bought a Nintendo multiport jack from retro fixes.
what i'm trying to do is go to my PVM 2030 VIA my extron VCS interface. i own a sync strike already if i need that.
my question is, how do i buy (or make if i have to) the cable for this?
ideally, I'd just go from the multiport out to bnc, directly into the extron, and then to the PVM. can i do that? or do i need the sync strike?
i am just getting going on this mod after buying stuff a couple years ago. i have the mod kit and i bought a Nintendo multiport jack from retro fixes.
what i'm trying to do is go to my PVM 2030 VIA my extron VCS interface. i own a sync strike already if i need that.
my question is, how do i buy (or make if i have to) the cable for this?
ideally, I'd just go from the multiport out to bnc, directly into the extron, and then to the PVM. can i do that? or do i need the sync strike?
Re: NESRGB board available now
NESRGB boards already have properly attenuated csync, so all you would need is to have the cable made. Retro-Access now makes BNC cables. I'd suggest contacting her that you want a Nintendo multi-A/V cable to BNC made SPECIFICALLY for the NESRGB output spec (meaning no resistor is needed on the csync line):vol.2 wrote:hi there everybody! i have a cabling question.
i am just getting going on this mod after buying stuff a couple years ago. i have the mod kit and i bought a Nintendo multiport jack from retro fixes.
what i'm trying to do is go to my PVM 2030 VIA my extron VCS interface. i own a sync strike already if i need that.
my question is, how do i buy (or make if i have to) the cable for this?
ideally, I'd just go from the multiport out to bnc, directly into the extron, and then to the PVM. can i do that? or do i need the sync strike?
https://retro-access.com/
Re: NESRGB board available now
awesome. thanks for the guidance, FBX! i will contact her for deets. i could probably make this though. i have a half of a bnc cable lying around and a small bag of those multiport plug ends i picked up. if i dont need any specific resistors or caps, i can just solder it together.FBX wrote:NESRGB boards already have properly attenuated csync, so all you would need is to have the cable made. Retro-Access now makes BNC cables. I'd suggest contacting her that you want a Nintendo multi-A/V cable to BNC made SPECIFICALLY for the NESRGB output spec (meaning no resistor is needed on the csync line):vol.2 wrote:hi there everybody! i have a cabling question.
i am just getting going on this mod after buying stuff a couple years ago. i have the mod kit and i bought a Nintendo multiport jack from retro fixes.
what i'm trying to do is go to my PVM 2030 VIA my extron VCS interface. i own a sync strike already if i need that.
my question is, how do i buy (or make if i have to) the cable for this?
ideally, I'd just go from the multiport out to bnc, directly into the extron, and then to the PVM. can i do that? or do i need the sync strike?
https://retro-access.com/
Re: NESRGB board available now
Agreed, I had success doing it that way when I completely recapped my NES.unmaker wrote:I've found the easiest way to remove the power module is by using the method demonstrated on console5's wiki:
https://console5.com/wiki/Nintendo_NES- ... _RF_Module
I was wondering, would there have been any harm in leaving the top plate permanently off the RF module before re-soldering the module to the main board? That would allow for much easier future maintenance of the RF module, if ever needed. Is the extra surface area of the top plate critical for the 7805 heat sinking?
Re: NESRGB board available now
Actually jumper J8 selects between TTL and 75 Ohm csync output.FBX wrote: NESRGB boards already have properly attenuated csync