NESRGB board available now

[Voultar]

This is happening on my Twin Famicom. My front-loader isn't having this problem. And as of right now, it's just Ninja Ryukunden II and III that are affected. I'll do some more testing tomorrow.

[Pasky]

Tried Ninja Ryukunden II for a few minutes. Same thing, no issues. Didn't try USA 3 or JP 3.

Also, NESRGB's are back in stock with the US distributor.

[lettuce]

Well, I now know and understand the problems that people are having with CS and the Framemeister.

Most games operate quite well. Interestingly enough, Ninja Ryukenden (Ninja Gaiden) 2, and 3 drop out continously.

Adjusting the sync level made very little difference, it still cuts out. I may have to swing back to composite video, though I really don't want to do that..

Yeah must admitt I use cs for the sync with my xrgb mini and have had no issues at all. Am using a snes scart I got from retrogamecables, I modded about 6 different front loader nes and all been fine.

Question about the Din socket supplied with the NESRGB, is that the same size as a megadrive 2 socket so you can use a megadrive 2 scart cable?, if so is the wiring diagram wired the same as a MD2?

[mvsfan]

No the din socket supplied with the nesrgb is the same as the x-rgb framemeister and is an 8-pin mini din.

The megadrive II uses a 9 pin mini din.

one of the advantages to using the 8 pin mini din is that you can just use a straight through wired 8 pin cable which you connect directly to the framemeister.

Tim sells them now for 8.00 AUD which is a lot less than any other cable.

BTW - how much is that pcb kit for the original famicom going to cost?

[Voultar]

Anyone with a NESRGB modded Twin Famicom and a Framemeister, using Composite Sync?

Care to give Ninja Ryukunden 2 or 3 a chance if you own them? (Real hardware, not the Powerpak or Everdrive)

It's bizarre to me that these games are so far the only affected by the sync level.

Initially, keeping the Framemeister on "auto" sync-mode was perfect for everything. It's just composite sync on my Twin Famicom that it doesn't agree with, with these 2 games!! Switching the sync-source back to composite video gets rid of the problem.

Actually, I haven't tried Ninja Ryukunden 1 yet, I'll give it a go.

[mickcris]

Anyone with a NESRGB modded Twin Famicom and a Framemeister, using Composite Sync?

Care to give Ninja Ryukunden 2 or 3 a chance if you own them? (Real hardware, not the Powerpak or Everdrive)

It's bizarre to me that these games are so far the only affected by the sync level.

Initially, keeping the Framemeister on "auto" sync-mode was perfect for everything. It's just composite sync on my Twin Famicom that it doesn't agree with, with these 2 games!! Switching the sync-source back to composite video gets rid of the problem.

Actually, I haven't tried Ninja Ryukunden 1 yet, I'll give it a go.

You wouldn't happen to have an everdrive to test on it would you? That is the only famicom cart I have and the menu wont display on my av famicom that has the CS issue.

[Voultar]

Anyone with a NESRGB modded Twin Famicom and a Framemeister, using Composite Sync?

Care to give Ninja Ryukunden 2 or 3 a chance if you own them? (Real hardware, not the Powerpak or Everdrive)

It's bizarre to me that these games are so far the only affected by the sync level.

Initially, keeping the Framemeister on "auto" sync-mode was perfect for everything. It's just composite sync on my Twin Famicom that it doesn't agree with, with these 2 games!! Switching the sync-source back to composite video gets rid of the problem.

Actually, I haven't tried Ninja Ryukunden 1 yet, I'll give it a go.

You wouldn't happen to have an everdrive to test on it would you? That is the only famicom cart I have and the menu wont display on my av famicom that has the CS issue.

That's precisely what happens with these authentic cartridges. The screen may blink a couple of times, but for the most part it's no display.

I don't have an Everdrive cart, unfortunately.

[rCadeGaming]

Ok so i tried a 100k resistor.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkL9DVm-L3M

sound better???

Yeah, that sounds pretty good from here. At the title screen, hold A+B while pressing start to open the sound test. Mad Forest is a good track to test with.

[Einzelherz]

Step 1 complete. Removed PPU w/o destroying anything, installed the riser thingy and tested the PPU in it to make sure all is kosher.

[lettuce]

Ok so i tried a 100k resistor.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkL9DVm-L3M

sound better???

Yeah, that sounds pretty good from here. At the title screen, hold A+B while pressing start to open the sound test. Mad Forest is a good track to test with.

Ok here ya go.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7lnwLQ ... e=youtu.be

[eightbitminiboss]

Anyone with a NESRGB modded Twin Famicom and a Framemeister, using Composite Sync?

Care to give Ninja Ryukunden 2 or 3 a chance if you own them? (Real hardware, not the Powerpak or Everdrive)

It's bizarre to me that these games are so far the only affected by the sync level.

Initially, keeping the Framemeister on "auto" sync-mode was perfect for everything. It's just composite sync on my Twin Famicom that it doesn't agree with, with these 2 games!! Switching the sync-source back to composite video gets rid of the problem.

Actually, I haven't tried Ninja Ryukunden 1 yet, I'll give it a go.

Have everything you have but I'm using Luma for sync and have LM1881 in my XRGB Mini adapter. No issues. Of course that's not what you want to hear.

[Artemio]

Well, I now know and understand the problems that people are having with CS and the Framemeister.

Most games operate quite well. Interestingly enough, Ninja Ryukenden (Ninja Gaiden) 2, and 3 drop out continously.

Adjusting the sync level made very little difference, it still cuts out. I may have to swing back to composite video, though I really don't want to do that..

i have very small jumps in Ninja Ryukenden 1, using a real cart and a front loader, first batch NESRGG updated to the latest fw. It never blacks out with the Framemeister, but the screen rolls a bit. The same thing happens in my PVM 1944Q. This *only* happens in the snow stage, and only one or two times during the level.

[rCadeGaming]

Ok so i tried a 100k resistor.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkL9DVm-L3M

sound better???

Yeah, that sounds pretty good from here. At the title screen, hold A+B while pressing start to open the sound test. Mad Forest is a good track to test with.

Ok here ya go.......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7lnwLQ ... e=youtu.be

Hmm, hate to say it, but I think the expansion audio is too soft there. Listen at 1:22, it lacks the bass notes of the expansion audio. Mine seems to have a fuller sound. Try values in between what you've tried so far. Again though, you should tune it to your own ears and speakers, and you need to try a variety of values to dial it in. If you don't have an appropriate potientometer, rig it up with alligator clips so you can try different resistors on-the-fly. That's what I did.

[lettuce]

Hmm, hate to say it, but I think the expansion audio is too soft there. Listen at 1:22, it lacks the bass notes of the expansion audio. Mine seems to have a fuller sound. Try values in between what you've tried so far. Again though, you should tune it to your own ears and speakers, and you need to try a variety of values to dial it in. If you don't have an appropriate potientometer, rig it up with alligator clips so you can try different resistors on-the-fly. That's what I did.

I guess it was a rather large jump form a 47k resistor to a 100k, maybe a should try something around 75k

[rCadeGaming]

Try lots. Swap them around on-the-fly. Don't solder in another one until you get it dialed in.

[mufunyo]

Try lots. Swap them around on-the-fly. Don't solder in another one until you get it dialed in.

Or use a trim pot, and once you have it dialed in, use a multimeter to measure the resistance.

[rCadeGaming]

That was my suggestion on the last page.

[mvsfan]

Try 67K. Its what i used. sounds great.

[mufunyo]

That was my suggestion on the last page.

This thread moves so fast

[lettuce]

Try 67K. Its what i used. sounds great.

care to upload a test of it on Mad Forest stage

[rCadeGaming]

That was my suggestion on the last page.

This thread moves so fast

Sorry, didn't mean to sound snarky.

[lettuce]

If you have a scart lead that has resistors on the R,G,B lines, what is the out come when using this with the NESRGB?

[ApolloBoy]

If you have a scart lead that has resistors on the R,G,B lines, what is the out come when using this with the NESRGB?

Should be obvious, you'll get a darker picture.

[lettuce]

If you have a scart lead that has resistors on the R,G,B lines, what is the out come when using this with the NESRGB?

Should be obvious, you'll get a darker picture.

Yeah guess ask a stupid question......Could it result in no picture at all though?

[Pasky]

If the values are too high, yes.

[Vault94]

Hey,

I've got my NES modded with the NESRGB board. But I can't get a picture or sound with my cable. I have two of these multi out to rgb cables (http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/supe ... -sale.html) and none of them work with the PAL NES with the multi out. I've tried directly to the xrgb mini (to female scart to mini din to the front rgb input on the mini) and directly to the tv with scart and still no picture.

Does anyone have any idea of what the problem is or could link me to a store with mutliout to rgb scart that would work. (I was under the assumption that these cables would work as I didn't think they would differ)

Thanks

- Matt

[CkRtech]

Hey Vault94.

A couple of things -

1: I assume the SCART to 8 pin mini din you are using on the Framemeister is indeed a European SCART to 8 pin mini and not the one that came with the mini (which is JP21 to 8 pin mini din).
2: The RGB cables for SNES have extra components in the cable that aren't needed for the NESRGB. You'll either need to modify the cable you are using and remove those components (capacitors in the case of PAL SNES RGB) or remove the components from the NESRGB and bridge the solder points.

The fact you are getting nothing thought kind surprises me as I don't think that adding extra caps would totally kill your signal. Are you sure all of your connections are good including ground and sync?

[Vault94]

Hey Vault94.

A couple of things -

1: I assume the SCART to 8 pin mini din you are using on the Framemeister is indeed a European SCART to 8 pin mini and not the one that came with the mini (which is JP21 to 8 pin mini din).
2: The RGB cables for SNES have extra components in the cable that aren't needed for the NESRGB. You'll either need to modify the cable you are using and remove those components (capacitors in the case of PAL SNES RGB) or remove the components from the NESRGB and bridge the solder points.

The fact you are getting nothing thought kind surprises me as I don't think that adding extra caps would totally kill your signal. Are you sure all of your connections are good including ground and sync?

1: Yes, I'm using the Euro scart to 8 pin.
2: The cable does work as does the mini. The TVs do detect the NES in the tv as the source switches from HDMI (when I plug directly with scart) I'm just seeing no picture. I don't have a clue how to modify it. Is there any sellers out there who sell these cables?

Thanks
- Matt

[Vault94]

Here is the non working cable from http://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/supe ... -sale.html

https://i.imgur.com/ZQLt5Jd.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kTQaT68.jpg

[darcagn]

I don't think the issue is with the cable. The cable has resistors on there that are not necessary, but at worst they should just darken the picture slightly, not outright prevent it from displaying. And if your NES is being detected, you should at least hear audio (if the game that's inserted is playing audio when it starts up, that is). What happens when you just use the stock normal composite connection on the NES? Does that work?