B&O MX4/6/7000 - troubleshooting and general information

[Dexther]

i'm this problem on my mx 6000... suggesting ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wfI0_0tPjvg

[SuicideShow]

Hey, im new here, been spying around for the last years but never made an account. But now its about time lol
sry for digging up this old topic though ^^"

I got a mx6000 a week ago without a remote. So i had to order one from ebay since the tv is mostly unusable without the remote.
Then today my remote came in the mail, everything fine and working until i played around with "programming the beo4". I wanted to get the de-interlace mode and configure the screen geometry etc.
Problem now is that the remote wont respond anymore after i pressed some button combination. Not sure what i did there..
I looked up on how to reset the remote but all i could find was that i had to use the "reset?" cue which i cant find anywhere.
Before that every button worked fine, like switching input, volume, etc. Now the tv is unusable again :(

Did anyone have that problem and can help me out? Been waiting like a week sitting next to the mx6000 wanting to play with it and now this..


EDIT:
Solved the problem already myself, i seem to have played around with the frequency..

Solution:

• Press and hold "Power/Standby" then additionaly press "LIST" to enter the Beo4 Setup Menu.
  Press "LIST" until you see "OPTION?".
  Press "GO".
  Press "LIST" until you see "V.OPT".
  Press "2".
  Now the beo4 is compatible for 1 IR.

[SuicideShow]

Got a MX6000 with FW2.0 now.
Been really happy so far and this thread was really helpful!
But it looks like i have to change the caps, on which i would really like some assistance.
Here's how my geometry looks so far, i doubt i can improve it further without changing caps:

Picture 1
Picture 2

Also made 2 videos to show my problem:

Video 1
Video 2

The problem is that the whole picture looks like is on a barrel roll. The videos dont catch it really good, but if you look on the edges its noticeable.

It doesn't look too bad. Your horizontal linearity looks pretty good at least. Fiddling more with the settings will not get your picture any better at any rate.
You could try replacing C100 on PCB 4, which is pretty standard in repairs of this set. C102 to C106 are related to deflection, might want to check/replace those. Also check coil L3 for dry joints. Naturally I only suggest doing this if you are familiar with crt repairs.
While it doesn't hurt to replace caps, I doubt you are going to get a better picture than that though. Might just want to get used to it. No CRT is perfect and in my experience, after a while you really don't notice the imperfections anymore.

Are those caps enough to replace or are there more i need to replace?
I have no problem soldering, but i never repaired a CRT. So im not sure where to look.
Also which PCB is it? Is is the "Power Supply & Deflection"?
Would be great if someone could point me to the proper service manual page.

Repair and Maintenance
Over on the BeoWorld Archived Forum, there is an amazing post by Die Bogener
...
I’m not going to get into doing a capacitor replacement guide or anything, just pointing you to the info (and I’ve got a copy of in case that archived forum post ever vanishes).

Do you still have the copy from there? mmmonkey page
Sadly all pictures are gone from that forum post.
Does it matter that i have the MX6000 and not the 7000 for that guide?
Btw: Awesome page you got there, i used it to vga mod my dreamcast years ago!

I have obtained a MX8000 and I have done a quick G2 adjustment, it seemingly were set too low judging from B&O G2 calibration screen. Just a tiny adjustment and the standby light went from yellow to green =) All good!

The led on the tv can be green? Is that only possible on the mx8000 or also on older models?

Can you explain more about the G2 adjustment? Is it the part in the service manual (5-3) "Cut-off (G2)"?
What exactly does that adjustment? And how necessary is a oscilloscope for that to get a better value?

_________________________________________

Edit: is it normal that 576i resolution is so flickery? On 240p, 288p and 480i from the test suite on wii with composite everything is ok. (I know, im about to order a rgb cable. Just never needed one because the wii was using component so far)
I'm used to it being flickery on my old CRT TV, it is a 50hz without RGB. But now on a 60hz RGB CRT it seems odd to have the same flickery picture.

[SuicideShow]

After reading the full 22 pages of this topic, I thought it would be nice to have FAQ/Index
of some kind in one place so people can find the important infos quickly.
Because its a lot to read up with 630+ posts.
Since i took notes for myself i share them here, though i made them mostly for my MX6000.
________________________________________________________________________________
FAQ:

Important Infos

• Guide post from futurematt5

• B&O MX7000 CRT Notes from mmmonkey.co.uk (w/ picture guide for the Service Menu Button Mod)

• Here the Service Menu Button Mod with a small button, without drilling holes. (MX6000)

• Workshop How to rebuild a MX4000 MX6000 MX7000 and AV9000

• Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Television Sets

________________________________________________________________________________

Is it possible to adjust the Geometry settings while in AV1/AV2?

• -> MENU>SETUP: AV1 > V.Tape-1
  ...................... : AV2 > Decoder
  ...................... : S-VHS> Off
  -> "GO" to save it.
  -> Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>TUNE>Green Button
  -> EXIT
  -> Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>STORE
  Now the Service Menu can be used with AV2 set to a Channel on TV.

________________________________________________________________________________

How to set De-Interlaced mode with fw 2.0? (getting Scanlines)
Programing:
- On the Beo4 remote display, add the SHIFT function into "LIST mode"

• -> Beo4> Press and hold "POWER/STANDBY" then press "LIST"
  -> Press "LIST" until "ADD?" appears on the Beo4 Display
  -> Press "GO"
  -> Press "LIST" until "SHIFT" appears
  -> Press "GO"
  -> Press "EXIT"

Use:

• - Beo4> "LIST" > "SHIFT" > "7"

- Only works on Interlaced Resolutions: 480i, 576i.
You will need to follow this procedure each time you turn the TV on, if you need to use it.

________________________________________________________________________________

Change Picture Format:

• 4:3.....:> Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>PICTURE>1

• 16:9...:> Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>PICTURE>2

- Because your SCART cables are not providing 12 volts on a certain pin your <B&O>
thinks the picture is 16:9 and squeezes it to have the correct aspect ration on
its 4:3 screen. Just change the aspect ration manually using the remote.

________________________________________________________________________________

How to change the Clock, setup the Stand, Socket settings, Saturation, Contrast, Color, Sound?

• Sound Options.....................: Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>SOUND (Circle though Options with GO)

• Saturation/Contrast/Color......: Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>PICTURE (Circle though Options with GO)

• Stand Setup........................: Beo4>LIST>V.SETUP>PICTURE>STAND (Pick a position and save it)

• Socket Settings...................: MENU>SETUP>

• Clock.................................: ???

________________________________________________________________________________

How do i save settings with Beo4?

• -> LIST>V.SETUP>STORE>GO

________________________________________________________________________________

Remote doesn't respond to anything?
- Wrong Frequency set in the Beo4.

• -> Press and hold "Power/Standby" then additionally press "LIST" to enter the Beo4 Setup Menu.
  -> Press "LIST" until you see "OPTION?".
  -> Press "GO".
  -> Press "LIST" until you see "V.OPT".
  -> Press "2".
  -> Now the beo4 is compatible for 1 IR.

- more info here on "Master Link Setup - BeoWorld Technical"

________________________________________________________________________________

The following are all useful for maximizing image quality:

• Adjust brilliance down to below 20.

• Adjust geometry.

• Adjust screen voltage on chassis.*

• Adjust focus on chassis.*

• Replacing caps.*

* These should only be carried out with extreme care as you no doubt are well aware already.
As you need to adjust focus while seeing the image, it can be tricky unless a friend is helping.
The picture goes in and out of focus very quickly with minimal rotation of the adjust knobs
so you need a very steady hand.

________________________________________________________________________________

Removing the Contrast Screen:

• Check "MX4000-6000 Service Manual.pdf"
  p.121, 6-1 - For the LX5000/6000
  p.124, 6-4 - For the MX4000
  p.128, 6-8 - For the MX6000

Note: It helped me to remove the Case back first.

________________________________________________________________________________

Manuals:

• Beo4 Getting Started

• Beo4 User Guide

• MX4000-7000 User Guide

• MX4000-7000 Separate User Guides

• MX8000 User Guide

Service Manuals:

• Beo4 / BeoLink1000 Service Manual

• MX4000-6000 Service Manual

• MX7000 Service Manual

More Manuals:

• Click Here

________________________________________________________________________________

Would be great if this could been expanded and edited in the first post
so everyone can find all important information. Or maybe a shortcut link to the useful posts.
If there is anything missing or not properly credited tell me and i will add/change that! ^^

[Cisek]

It turns out there is a solution for dim rgb picture without turning off contrast screen!
It was strange to me that during daytime with sun passing through my windows MX7000 was giving much better brightness and contrast than on evening/nighttime.
It is because of Vision Clear technology - there is brightness sensor in upper right corner which dims picture greatly, it turns out that when you point flashlight in this direction it gives big boost in contrast and brightness, niw we just have to find a solution to skip this sensor and have highest brightness and contrast with default.

[SuicideShow]

Got a MX6000 with FW2.0 now.
Been really happy so far and this thread was really helpful!
But it looks like i have to change the caps, on which i would really like some assistance.
Here's how my geometry looks so far, i doubt i can improve it further without changing caps:

Picture 1
Picture 2

Also made 2 videos to show my problem:

Video 1
Video 2

The problem is that the whole picture looks like is on a barrel roll. The videos dont catch it really good, but if you look on the edges its noticeable.

Update on my situation:
I figured it out how to replace the caps but sadly it didnt change anything at all.
The picture still scrolls uneven horizontallly.
It looks like the picture is moving on a actual scroll with a wave in the middle and on the edges from being rolled up.
Its very annoying on sidescrolling games like Mario or Metroid.
Does nobody have that problem? i would really like to fix that because overall its a great tv set.
Or could it really be that the tube has a defect?

Also i noticed that bright object drag a tail with them on black bckgrounds, like a shooting star.
Does anyone know if this is fixable?

[MKL]

Update on my situation:
I figured it out how to replace the caps but sadly it didnt change anything at all.
The picture still scrolls uneven horizontallly.

https://i.imgur.com/sIAg0ge.jpg

The fix to such a distortion is called S-correction and it's done with caps in series with the return line (or cold side) of the horizontal deflection coil (located on the yoke). As per the schematics "210" is the hot side connected to the collector of the horizontal output transistor TR33 and the cold side is "211" in series with the linearity coil L3 and the S-correction caps C104 and C105 (C102/103/106 are not related). The values reported on the schematics are 300nF (= 0.3uF) and 560nF (= 0.56uF) respectively (voltage should be 250V or 400V). If their capacitance decreases (and it normally does over time) the picture will be squashed near the left and right borders. If the nominal values still give a squashed picture try increasing the values a little until the linearity is uniform across the screen (if you increase too much, the borders will be more stretched than the middle). For instance, 0.3uF -> 0.39uF and/or 0.56uF -> 0.68uF. Make sure the replacements have the same lead spacing as the originals.

Also i noticed that bright object drag a tail with them on black bckgrounds, like a shooting star.
Does anyone know if this is fixable?

https://i.imgur.com/cUB7QgD.jpg

Try replacing this resistor on the neckboard (I seem to read 1.2 ohm 2W but check what's on yours).

[SuicideShow]

https://i.imgur.com/sIAg0ge.jpg

The fix to such a distortion is called S-correction and it's done with caps in series with the return line (or cold side) of the horizontal deflection coil (located on the yoke). As per the schematics "210" is the hot side connected to the collector of the horizontal output transistor TR33 and the cold side is "211" in series with the linearity coil L3 and the S-correction caps C104 and C105 (C102/103/106 are not related). The values reported on the schematics are 300nF (= 0.3uF) and 560nF (= 0.56uF) respectively (voltage should be 250V or 400V). If their capacitance decreases (and it normally does over time) the picture will be squashed near the left and right borders. If the nominal values still give a squashed picture try increasing the values a little until the linearity is uniform across the screen (if you increase too much, the borders will be more stretched than the middle). For instance, 0.3uF -> 0.39uF and/or 0.56uF -> 0.68uF. Make sure the replacements have the same lead spacing as the originals.

So in short you say i should replace C104 and C105, thats all? Sounds like no big deal, replacing all other caps was a bigger project lol
TR33 is also already replaced from that time.

C104 300nF 5% 250V
C105 560nF 5% 250V
With increase the value you mean i should replace them with a higher value again after i tested it? Theres nothing to adjust i guess?
What exactly do you mean with "same lead spacing"? I will most likely buy those parts on ebay since the electro shops dont have that.
So should this be noted anywhere?

From what i checked on the pictures i made last time, it looks like C105 is a 0.47uF instead of the 560nF mentioned in the service manual.
Then i go with that instead of a 0.56uF?

https://i.imgur.com/cUB7QgD.jpg

Try replacing this resistor on the neckboard (I seem to read 1.2 ohm 2W but check what's on yours).

The Service Manual i linked above in the FAQ is higher quality. It says its a 1.2k ohm resistor (5% 1/3W).
Sounds strange to me since resistors are rarely the issue but i will try it out.

If you know anything else i should check/replace please tell me right away. Because disassembling is really annoying, the less i do it, the better.
Thanks for your knowledge!

[MKL]

Measure across the cap leads or the pads on the chassis. You want to be able to mount the new parts and if the lead spacing is not the same you'll have a hard time doing it. Common lead spacings for these caps are 15mm, 22.5mm, 27mm. If the value on your chassis is 0.47uF try with that first (especially if the old cap shows lower capacitance when tested) and increase if necessary. Get a few caps with progressively higher values such as 0.56uF, 0.68uF, 0.82uF and see which one gives the best results.

The Service Manual i linked above in the FAQ is higher quality. It says its a 1.2k ohm resistor (5% 1/3W).
Sounds strange to me since resistors are rarely the issue but i will try it out.

Then use that value. This is the effect of a bad G1 resistor on a Sony KV-21CT1E:

https://i.imgur.com/caurnDu.jpg

There may be other causes but this is easy and inexpensive so try it first.

[SuicideShow]

Measure across the cap leads or the pads on the chassis. You want to be able to mount the new parts and if the lead spacing is not the same you'll have a hard time doing it. Common lead spacings for these caps are 15mm, 22.5mm, 27mm. If the value on your chassis is 0.47uF try with that first (especially if the old cap shows lower capacitance when tested) and increase if necessary. Get a few caps with progressively higher values such as 0.56uF, 0.68uF, 0.82uF and see which one gives the best results.

Oooh you mean the distance between the legs. Sry yeah i get what you mean. Makes sense to buy the proper size.
Will try with the different values, thanks!

Then use that value. This is the effect of a bad G1 resistor on a Sony KV-21CT1E:

https://i.imgur.com/caurnDu.jpg

There may be other causes but this is easy and inexpensive so try it first.

This looks bad. My problem is luckily only in motion. With a static picture i have no problem.
What are the other solution? Just in case the resistor won't fix it.

[SuicideShow]

Ok so while checking inside the tv to make sure which parts i need and where they are placed, i saw this at the location of R19.



should i also replace the resistor left of R19 and the one inside the black tube?
since im at it i will also replace the 2 caps on that board. just kinda odd that the cap on the picture is not mentioned in the service manual. there is no 10uF cap listed for that board.

Also i was looking for C104 and C105. The values are still ok with "30x" and "47x". I will replace them anyway to check if it help, but getting one with higher value is not that easy. I couldnt find any 250V cap with 0.57uF, they all have 27.5mm distance between the pins and 400v.
WIll have to look some more i guess.
The PCB has holes to put either 15mm or 23mm caps at C104 and C105 location. Maybe i find something that matches. The size of the cap doesnt matter as long as i am able to fit it on the board?

Spoiler

While i was adjusting the poti on the back of of the neckboard to see if i can improve my picture i found something odd with the picture:



Anyone know why my TV is drunk and showing the picture double? lol
Its clearly not the Contrast Screen. Its way behind it.
Not sure if its the same issue caused by R19 or something else?

edit: ok it was the contrast screen.

[MKL]

Ok so while checking inside the tv to make sure which parts i need and where they are placed, i saw this at the location of R19.

https://i.ibb.co/CJNpng5/IMG-20230729-005508.jpg

should i also replace the resistor left of R19 and the one inside the black tube?
since im at it i will also replace the 2 caps on that board. just kinda odd that the cap on the picture is not mentioned in the service manual. there is no 10uF cap listed for that board.

A pic of the other side would help as the cap seems to be across the same trace. My suggestion of replacing R19 was based on your early description. You said it's not like in my picture so I would need to see an actual pic or video of the issue.

Also i was looking for C104 and C105. The values are still ok with "30x" and "47x". I will replace them anyway to check if it help, but getting one with higher value is not that easy. I couldnt find any 250V cap with 0.57uF, they all have 27.5mm distance between the pins and 400v.
WIll have to look some more i guess.
The PCB has holes to put either 15mm or 23mm caps at C104 and C105 location. Maybe i find something that matches. The size of the cap doesnt matter as long as i am able to fit it on the board?

0.56uF
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175197043715
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254042440094
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153795995030

0.68uF
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155108646975
https://www.ebay.com/itm/161186414452
https://www.ebay.com/itm/161289424200

0.82uf
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175675492372
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185841920793
https://www.ebay.com/itm/252341924884

While i was adjusting the poti on the back of of the neckboard to see if i can improve my picture i found something odd with the picture:

https://i.ibb.co/6NXgNKm/IMG-20230728-172059-edit-304751248971607.jpg

Anyone know why my TV is drunk and showing the picture double? lol
Its clearly not the Contrast Screen. Its way behind it.
Not sure if its the same issue caused by R19 or something else?

Did that appear only when you turned the focus or the screen pot? Or was it already there? Does it change if you turn either pot? Was the CRT ground strap connected to the neckboard?

[SuicideShow]

A pic of the other side would help as the cap seems to be across the same trace. My suggestion of replacing R19 was based on your early description. You said it's not like in my picture so I would need to see an actual pic or video of the issue.

Yes it actually is placed across the other parts. Looks like a fix to me.
About the picture of the ghosting, i will try to get a good one. Its Hard to catch since my camera is not that good and its only in motion. Not sure if its maybe related to the double text in the picture from the last post.
Getting a picture/video of the actual geometry problem where you said to replace c104/105 is also very hard.
I try to take one without the contrast screen, and hope it helps the camera to capture it.
Just will take some time since the tv is obviously disassembled and also i already desoldered C104/105.

0.56uF
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175197043715
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254042440094
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153795995030

0.68uF
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155108646975
https://www.ebay.com/itm/161186414452
https://www.ebay.com/itm/161289424200

0.82uf
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175675492372
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185841920793
https://www.ebay.com/itm/252341924884

Thanks will consider that, but looks a bit expensive since im from europe.
But in worst case i guess i have to take those if i cant find some cheaper/nearer ones. Or else i payed more for replacement parts than the actual tv.

Did that appear only when you turned the focus or the screen pot? Or was it already there? Does it change if you turn either pot? Was the CRT ground strap connected to the neckboard?

Can be ignored since it was the contrast screen.

I'm quite sure that it has always been there, i just didnt look from that angle. I thought it might be a reflection on the contrast screen. Its only that clear visible with black background and white text. Maybe also in 2d games with very dark levels/high contrast.
Also adjusting the potis didnt change anything related to that.
G2: changed the color if turned too far in either way.
HOR Cent:. let me switch the position horizontally with 2 positions.
Focus: changed the focus of course.
All wires were connected.

[SuicideShow]

Ok so i made some videos + screenshots to show the problem as good as possible.
Videos are without Contrast screen and double checked on TFT with emulator that its not the game (for both problems).

I marked the location in the screenshot where the distortion is noticable
Watch those spots in the video and you should see what i mean.
I would say its clearly shown and not my imagination lol


Geometry issue:


Ship.mp4 - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Ship.mp4 - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)


Outside.mp4 - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Outside.mp4 - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)


Outside.mp4 - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Corridor.mp4 - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)
_____________________________________________________________________________________

Ghosting


Underwater.mp4 - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Underwater.mp4 - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)


Caveplatform.mp4 - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Caveplatform.mp4 - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)
_____________________________________________________________________________________


PS: The problem i was showing here is actually the Contrast Screen reflecting back to the Tube... I dont get how i can appear behind the text but at least its gone with the Contrast Screen off.
Its only really noticeable with white text on a black screen anyway, so i guess i can live with that.

[MKL]

The ghosting issue is vertical. What I had in mind was horizontal (as in the pic I posted) so ignore the suggestion about R19 etc. Not sure what is causing that, I'll have to think about it.

The linearity/side compression issue due to bad s-correction was already clear to me. I went through my stash of s-caps and I found I have quite a few 0.56uF and 0.68uF ones with 15mm and 22.5mm pitch but nothing higher. However, it's possible to put two caps in parallel so the total capacitance is the sum of the two (e.g. 0.33 and 0.47 will give 0.80) You put one in its proper location and solder the other on the other side, a common practice. My caps are pulled but good and free (you just have to pay for shipping which shouldn't be much as we're both in EU).

https://i.imgur.com/N9zLgfl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kXvWMZE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LVCaAHw.jpg

[SuicideShow]

The ghosting issue is vertical. What I had in mind was horizontal (as in the pic I posted) so ignore the suggestion about R19 etc. Not sure what is causing that, I'll have to think about it.

Its in either direction, even diagonal. But it was better noticeable with jumping for a picture/video. while walking its less present but still there.
Ok then i skip that resistor but will still consider replacing those 2 caps on the neckboard, since they are electrolyte caps.

The linearity/side compression issue due to bad s-correction was already clear to me. I went through my stash of s-caps and I found I have quite a few 0.56uF and 0.68uF ones with 15mm and 22.5mm pitch but nothing higher. However, it's possible to put two caps in parallel so the total capacitance is the sum of the two (e.g. 0.33 and 0.47 will give 0.80) You put one in its proper location and solder the other on the other side, a common practice. My caps are pulled but good and free (you just have to pay for shipping which shouldn't be much as we're both in EU).

I just added it because my last video wasn't showing it clearly enough.
Actually i was also thinking about doing that with like a 0.47 + 0.03 etc but wasn't completely sure if it would work.
For the parts with different pitch i was thinking to install them upside-down and add some wire on each pin to go though the hole.
Your offer is really generous, if you think the caps are still good i might just use them. Actually i would like new ones more but for the sake of the experiment to see if its actually fixing the problem i guess they will definitely do!

[MKL]

My caps are good because I test them:

https://i.imgur.com/CO3ijqi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9e5GI92.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/eKLMdXZ.jpg

There is nothing to gain from using new caps over these.

Over the years many have reported this issue so my view is that B&O didn't use ideal values for C104 and/or C105 from the start so I wouldn't replace 0.56 with 0.56 unless the original cap shows a much lower capacitance when tested (i.e. it has degraded itself). I'd go with 0.68 or even 0.80 (0.47+0.33) and decrease if necessary. In-game pictures aren't really helpful, you would need a test pattern with equidistant vertical lines across the screen (a grid/crosshatch).

As for the ghosting, after watching the video it doesn't strike me as an issue due to component failure. It probably could improve with a black level/white balance calibration.

[SuicideShow]

There is nothing to gain from using new caps over these.

Over the years many have reported this issue so my view is that B&O didn't use ideal values for C104 and/or C105 from the start so I wouldn't replace 0.56 with 0.56 unless the original cap shows a much lower capacitance when tested (i.e. it has degraded itself). I'd go with 0.68 or even 0.80 (0.47+0.33) and decrease if necessary.

Sounds good, just messege me were to send the money and how much you want then!

Will try it that way, i just hope i can start playing instead of only watching the guts of that tv. I like soldering and all but sadly my understanding of electronics is too low to tinker much by my own.

In-game pictures aren't really helpful, you would need a test pattern with equidistant vertical lines across the screen (a grid/crosshatch).

I get what you mean, but when i checked with the 240p suite on the wii i didnt see much at the grid. Geometry and all looked good to me and still does for the most part. But ingame i see the big issue.
This was what i posted here some time ago:


I just dont see much of a problem here.

As for the ghosting, after watching the video it doesn't strike me as an issue due to component failure. It probably could improve with a black level/white balance calibration.

How would i do that? Its the first time hearing about that.

[MKL]

Well I can see that the last two squares near the borders are not as wide as those in the center.

The calibration involves lowering the G2/screen pot, adjusting the voltage for each cathode to 170V through the cutoffs (in the service menu on this model). With a test pattern that has the three RGB colours (bars, etc.) you raise the G2 until one of the three appears and then you asjust the cutoffs of the other two until they appear too.

PM me your address for the caps.

[kevkevkevkev]

Help. I am trying to run my supergun on my mx4000 and am getting no sound from the left speaker. It's a custom supergun with scart rgb. I'm guessing it's a wiring issue. Anyone had issues running superguns on b&o's?

[Xaranar]

There is nothing to gain from using new caps over these.

Over the years many have reported this issue so my view is that B&O didn't use ideal values for C104 and/or C105 from the start so I wouldn't replace 0.56 with 0.56 unless the original cap shows a much lower capacitance when tested (i.e. it has degraded itself). I'd go with 0.68 or even 0.80 (0.47+0.33) and decrease if necessary.

Sounds good, just messege me were to send the money and how much you want then!

Will try it that way, i just hope i can start playing instead of only watching the guts of that tv. I like soldering and all but sadly my understanding of electronics is too low to tinker much by my own.

In-game pictures aren't really helpful, you would need a test pattern with equidistant vertical lines across the screen (a grid/crosshatch).

I get what you mean, but when i checked with the 240p suite on the wii i didnt see much at the grid. Geometry and all looked good to me and still does for the most part. But ingame i see the big issue.
This was what i posted here some time ago:


I just dont see much of a problem here.

As for the ghosting, after watching the video it doesn't strike me as an issue due to component failure. It probably could improve with a black level/white balance calibration.

How would i do that? Its the first time hearing about that.

Keeping an eye on this to see if it makes any difference. I have an MX8000 that I want to love, but that horrid horizontal geometry turns me off. The way the lines are wavy across the entire screen makes any sort of scrolling look awful.

[belzrebuth]

It turns out there is a solution for dim rgb picture without turning off contrast screen!
It was strange to me that during daytime with sun passing through my windows MX7000 was giving much better brightness and contrast than on evening/nighttime.
It is because of Vision Clear technology - there is brightness sensor in upper right corner which dims picture greatly, it turns out that when you point flashlight in this direction it gives big boost in contrast and brightness, niw we just have to find a solution to skip this sensor and have highest brightness and contrast with default.

Hi I want to do the same with mine.
I was wondering if it's as simple as putting a 1M potentiometer (with one of its pins shorted to the wiper) across R17, adjust to taste and then measure resistance and replace the pot with a fixed resistor. I don't have the TV near at the moment so I was wondering what is the value of R17 and how it changes depending on the light applied.If it's behaving as an LDR is should drop with higher brightness.
See page 9 of the PDF for the R17 I'm talking about.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3y9bme6ui3fe4 ... 0.pdf?dl=0

[thegreathopper]

Help. I am trying to run my supergun on my mx4000 and am getting no sound from the left speaker. It's a custom supergun with scart rgb. I'm guessing it's a wiring issue. Anyone had issues running superguns on b&o's?

That’s correct, your supergun is probably Jamma which is mono. To get stereo you will need either a stereo board or link your mono output to L&R in the scart plug that you plug into the B&O.

[SuicideShow]

Keeping an eye on this to see if it makes any difference. I have an MX8000 that I want to love, but that horrid horizontal geometry turns me off. The way the lines are wavy across the entire screen makes any sort of scrolling look awful.

That was exactly my thought too! And i cant believe that a 5-8k TV as it had cost when it was new back in the day has such a bad picture.

Anyway the results so far:

Got the parts finally, thanks to MKL! And tried my luck with it today.
Its really a tiresome process.
Unplug TV Power cord -> Discharge Tube -> Remove all Cables -> Remove "PCB-Box" from back of TV -> Unplug more Cables -> Remove bottom PCB -> Solder -> Put everything together again -> Plug in Power cord ->Test -> Repeat.

Did increase the value right away without replacing the caps. Got a bit better after it.
First I did C104+105 both, from 0.30µF -> 0.33µF and 0.47µF -> 0.56µF.
Then only C104 from 0.33µF -> 0.47µF, got better again.
At last C105, 0.56µF -> 0.68µF, couldn't really tell a difference this time.

Bottom and middle of screen look good but still a tiny bit uneven.
The sides are ok.
The top is still a bit more wavy than the bottom.
So there was definitely an improvement!

Any ideas? Should I increase the value more or might there be another part that needs a replacement?

[Xaranar]

That was exactly my thought too! And i cant believe that a 5-8k TV as it had cost when it was new back in the day has such a bad picture.

Anyway the results so far:

Got the parts finally, thanks to MKL! And tried my luck with it today.
Its really a tiresome process.
Unplug TV Power cord -> Discharge Tube -> Remove all Cables -> Remove "PCB-Box" from back of TV -> Unplug more Cables -> Remove bottom PCB -> Solder -> Put everything together again -> Plug in Power cord ->Test -> Repeat.

Did increase the value right away without replacing the caps. Got a bit better after it.
First I did C104+105 both, from 0.30µF -> 0.33µF and 0.47µF -> 0.56µF.
Then only C104 from 0.33µF -> 0.47µF, got better again.
At last C105, 0.56µF -> 0.68µF, couldn't really tell a difference this time.

Bottom and middle of screen look good but still a tiny bit uneven.
The sides are ok.
The top is still a bit more wavy than the bottom.
So there was definitely an improvement!

Any ideas? Should I increase the value more or might there be another part that needs a replacement?

That sounds promising at the very least, do you have any pictures so we can see the difference so far?

[kevkevkevkev]

OK still trying to figure out my no right sound channel with my mx4000

I got a very cheap chinese supergun that worked but the image was darker and the sound a bit crackly with a crappy md2 cable. BUT I tried it with a retrogamingcables md2 lead and just got an out of cync image. I think sound was OK. I guess the cable was too good for the Chinese supergun...

Anyway simple question. What superguns are people using for jamma on mx series tv's? I want a decent one but want to make sure I don't have a sound issue. Thanks.

[SuicideShow]

OK still trying to figure out my no right sound channel with my mx4000

I got a very cheap chinese supergun that worked but the image was darker and the sound a bit crackly with a crappy md2 cable. BUT I tried it with a retrogamingcables md2 lead and just got an out of cync image. I think sound was OK. I guess the cable was too good for the Chinese supergun...

Anyway simple question. What superguns are people using for jamma on mx series tv's? I want a decent one but want to make sure I don't have a sound issue. Thanks.

Like thegreathopper already told you, your problem is most likely because JAMMA has Mono Sound as you can see in the Pinout. There is no Audio L, Audio R, its only +/- for 1 speaker. So just check your wiring if that's the case.

That sounds promising at the very least, do you have any pictures so we can see the difference so far?

Sorry for taking so long, but here are the pictures:


It's not much but its slightly better than before. if you compare the old video with the new one you will notice

Corridor.mp4 (Before) - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Corridor.mp4 (Before) - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)

Corridor.mp4 (After) - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Corridor.mp4 (After) - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)

Grid.mp4 (After) - Streamable Video Link (Expire in 2 days)
Grid.mp4 (After) - Download Link (If Streamable is expired)

On SNES like in the video it looks ok, On NES though its still too wavy like you can see on the Grid.



For easy changing of the caps i thought i just extend the port with some wires. Just need some more caps to experiment more with the value.


EDIT:
Update:
I just tried to put 2 caps in a chain to get a different value. Not sure why but the TV will not turn on that way. Or actually it turns on and goes to standby after 1-2sec without even showing a picture.
On C105 i got 0.64µF and tried at first with 0.64+0.33µF. Thought its too much so i changed to 0.33+0.33µF but this also didn't work. So it seems that is not an option for what ever reason.
It also seems to forget the AV-Port Setup after changing the caps, had to put Decoder on AV2 again. This didn't happen when i soldered them out and in again though.

[Xaranar]

EDIT:
Update:
I just tried to put 2 caps in a chain to get a different value. Not sure why but the TV will not turn on that way. Or actually it turns on and goes to standby after 1-2sec without even showing a picture.
On C105 i got 0.64µF and tried at first with 0.64+0.33µF. Thought its too much so i changed to 0.33+0.33µF but this also didn't work. So it seems that is not an option for what ever reason.
It also seems to forget the AV-Port Setup after changing the caps, had to put Decoder on AV2 again. This didn't happen when i soldered them out and in again though.

I've pulled my B&O MX8000 out of storage and I'm looking to try something similar to you. The problem is, there doesn't seem to exist a schematic of the MX8000 anywhere, it's not a part of the service manual so I have no idea which two film caps I'm replacing, and with what potential values. I don't suppose you could show me a picture of your chassis could you, with where the two caps are located for you? I have a slight inkling where mine might be, as I'm pretty sure I've located the horizontal linearity coil, so it's got to be close to that, right?

[SuicideShow]

I've pulled my B&O MX8000 out of storage and I'm looking to try something similar to you. The problem is, there doesn't seem to exist a schematic of the MX8000 anywhere, it's not a part of the service manual so I have no idea which two film caps I'm replacing, and with what potential values. I don't suppose you could show me a picture of your chassis could you, with where the two caps are located for you? I have a slight inkling where mine might be, as I'm pretty sure I've located the horizontal linearity coil, so it's got to be close to that, right?

Here you are, its from before the change of caps. I noted my original value in the screenshot.
So you are also trying to fix the geometry? While i got fixed the left and right side, its still not as good as it should be. And I just dont know what to do to further improve it.
I hope you come back with good results! Best of Luck!

[Xaranar]

Here you are, its from before the change of caps. I noted my original value in the screenshot.
So you are also trying to fix the geometry? While i got fixed the left and right side, its still not as good as it should be. And I just dont know what to do to further improve it.
I hope you come back with good results! Best of Luck!

I am trying to fix the geometry, yes, or at least improve it to acceptable levels, subjective as that may be. In that first picture, just below the two caps is a connector. Where does that connector go?